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  1. #1

    Default 1979 2.3 turbo vacuum lines

    https://youtu.be/BTSvhaxMmts

    I documented the vacuum lines from tearing down my motor if it helps anyone.
    '79 Indy pace car T-top
    '81 Cobra
    '81 Cobra T-top
    '82 Mustang GT T-top
    '87 Corvette
    '10 Mustang GT Convertible
    '17 F250
    '17 Landrover Discovery Sport

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Well done. As an Australian Citroën DS19 long distance racer said (after racing one around Australia in the RedEx trail in the late 50's

    "If this #$4%6 @%^&87 it had another tube, you could #$4%6 breed from it...."

    Same applies.

  3. #3

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    It worked. It's all back together and ready to go in the car.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    '79 Indy pace car T-top
    '81 Cobra
    '81 Cobra T-top
    '82 Mustang GT T-top
    '87 Corvette
    '10 Mustang GT Convertible
    '17 F250
    '17 Landrover Discovery Sport

  4. #4
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    Wow, nice neat work! Love the originality.

    Way more than our 2.8 had!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
    I think this is my favorite car on the site right now.
    Quote Originally Posted by BLUECRAPI
    This is the best thread on the internet.
    Darran
    1982-1C (Black) T-Top GT RestoMod:http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...he-Road-Thread
    1986-9L (Oxford White) SVO: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-did-1986-SVO
    1979 (85:Tangerine) Coupe (my son's): http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...gerine-Machine
    1979 (3F:Light Medium Blue) Coupe (one day to be my other son's!) http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...other-79-Coupe!

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Great. Got video bookmarked.
    These engines have some 'Italian' added to them- spaghet..

    What we gonna do with our rusted oil pans ? Have not seen new stock replacements.

    Even more fun is coming removing/reinstalling the turbocharger.

    After rebuild, never got all that hose stuff back on, even though i marked everything.
    Figured memory and tags would work. Wrong.
    Found diagrams help, but pictures of parts are required.
    Not much info on internet. Most 2.3T gone or modded.
    Lots of info in shop manuals. Lots of data gaps too.

    Of importance are tees, routing, check valve orientations, carb, manifold connections.

    Mine actually drives fine without the a/clnr, egr parts.
    Still have all of it stored. The puzzle is not finished and may never be.

    Runs real close to what it ran like in the 80s.
    Mpg, power, torque, is better now. Steady idle, vac.
    Starts the same as always. Pedal it to keep it running when cold.
    Choke never really worked.

    The vac array on the fender is gold.
    Never found out how to duplicate or match any of the parts.

    Noticed intact turbo heat shield.
    Mine broke at one of the mounting points and rattled.
    Removed and awaiting repair. Only been 20 years.

    Seems i recall heat shields on the down pipes near the oil pan.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    Figured memory and tags would work. Wrong.
    That's funny! Luckily for me, pretty much everything was intact! The time gap between said documentation and reinstallation still made things challenging!

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  7. #7
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default matching words and wisdom to carry out plan

    It was all about my wording on wire tags.
    Tags allowed more room to write than tape.
    Had no digital camera then. Now use one to document everything.
    Final engine dress came years later after tear down.
    Could not decipher what i wrote.
    Car did fire right up first try after rebuild without many of those connections.
    And with a official reman Holley 5200 that Holley miss calibrated internally.

    Am always tweaking things seeking sweet spots.
    Years of trial and error with vac connections and tuning were valuable learning experiences.
    Changes that did or did not affect another. What worked and not.
    Carb venturi drip after shutdown in hot weather, no boost, high/low fuel mileage, idle vac readings, flat spots.

    Engine now gets 20-27 mpg. Stock was about 17. Have not had to change anything for several years.
    More power, smooth up/down rpm load-no load. Good torque will pull floored from idle in higher gears.
    The lowest boost starts is at 1800. Regular 87 fuel, 4-5# boost.
    Engine likes 1100 rpm setting no load. Drops to steady 900 with everything electrical running (70a 1G large alternator).
    Entire choke assy, flaps, are completely removed. Starts in any weather as always.

    The weird one is the rare no boost after parking for a bit in the summer.
    Boost option back after few hours.
    Finally found out how to fix that couple years ago, after 30 years of what the heck.
    The smaller vac hose to waste gate somehow gets pressurized.
    Engine off. Pull hose off; psst, air comes out. Reconnect. Good to go boost again.
    Is a mystery to this day how or why it gets pressurized during regular driving.

    Was really frustrating when this happened at the 1984 MOSEM event in Dearborn MI..
    Mustang turned 20 years old. Ford people everywhere.
    Annual show and rare Mustang only parade from FWHQ onto their test track a mile away.
    Was a non-member, but having the only 79 Mustang, got to join in for 20.00..
    High speed runs allowed on the track loop.
    Dang. The no boost event happened. A turbo pony/dog combo.
    Was so frustrated did not participate in the 20th anniversary photo of all Mustang years on the track lawn.
    Was told that photo was eventually hung in a Ford building nearby.
    All years, 1964-1984. Except 1979. Photo is missing the only 1979 Mustang that showed up.
    Mine.

    One of these years, if and when they do that type of photo again, hope to correct that bad decision.

  8. #8

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    Super job Gregpro50! I have a few loose ends on mine to sort that lost labels or were never attached when I picked it up (plus I took vids/pictures that disappeared when I dropped my iPhone in the ocean!). I have a few books and schematics that I'll need to consult to figure out what the heck all these valves are for (most say what they are in the diagram but no picture to figure out what it looks like) and only then can I try match 'em all up. Can you make another video but this time make it for CA specific vehicles?!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  9. #9

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    I think we should put out collective heads together and start taking pictures and posting them here. In each picture we can label each part by it's proper name. With the proper name and appropriate year/vacuum schematic (I have these) we can all put ours cars back together properly.

    Here's a list of all the items I think I need to identify on my 1980 Ghia Turbo, manual, California car, with A/C.
    #1RNR - No. 1 Runner (Intake Mani, metal vacuum lines)
    #4RNR - No. 4 Runner (Intake Mani, metal vacuum lines)
    AC - Air Conditioner
    A/CL BI MET - Air Cleaner Bi-Metal Sensor
    A/CL CWM – Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulator
    A/CK DV – Air Cleaner Duct and Valve Vacuum Motor
    ACV - Air Control Valve (Thermactor)
    AIR BPV - Air By-Pass Valve (Thermactor)
    CARB – Carburetor
    • F- F-Port (Power Valve)
    • BV- Bowl Vent Port
    • V – Vent Port (Air Horn)
    • S- Spark Port
    • E- EGR Port
    • T- Third Port
    DIST – Distributor
    EGR – Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve
    IVV- Idle Vacuum Valve (Thermactor)
    MAN PLNM – Manifold Plenum (Fitting) (is your vacuum tree at the front of your engine)
    PURGE CV – Purge Control Valve
    SA- FV – Separator Assembly- Fuel Vacuum
    SOL V – Solenoid Valve
    SPL RET – Spark Retard (is the set of switches by your washer reservoir)
    TVS – TVS Valve (Air Cleaner)
    TVV - Thermal Vent Valve
    VAC – Vacuum port (Idle Vacuum Valve)
    VCV - Vacuum Control valve
    VCKV – Vacuum Check Valve
    VDC – Vacuum Delay Valve
    VOTM – Vacuum Operated Throttle Modulator
    VRDV – Vacuum Retard Delay Valve
    VRESER – Vacuum Reservoir
    VR/S – Vacuum Regulator/Solenoid
    VVVAC - Vent Valve Vacuum
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  10. #10

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    That's a good idea. I still have the engine out and can take close up shots of each one. I do have a pic of all the lines once I removed them.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    '79 Indy pace car T-top
    '81 Cobra
    '81 Cobra T-top
    '82 Mustang GT T-top
    '87 Corvette
    '10 Mustang GT Convertible
    '17 F250
    '17 Landrover Discovery Sport

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    The following post might help you a little more....Sadly, TuxStangs far right view of the "9G328 Idle Vacuum Valve (IVV)" has dropped off the net and isn't able to be retrived.


    Might help others ...

    Red : 9A995 Air Cleaner TVS Valve (TVS) open 50F closes 60F
    Blue : 9E862 Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulator (A/CL CWM) opens 55F closes 40F
    Green : 9E862 Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulator (A/CL CWM) opens 76F closes 50F
    Full right : 9G328 Idle Vacuum Valve (IVV)
    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    From Tux Stangs sensational post....truncated shots.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ify-components





    showing the Thermal Vacum Vent you might also find on Hi Altitude 83's 5.0 gt's.

    He got it all from a mixture of sources, but again...
    Quote Originally Posted by RED 78'
    Another usefull link => http://myzephyrs.com/ (btw, it also hosts 79 to 83 copies of EVTM for Fairmont/Zephyr)

    Center disk is 9G328 Idle Vacuum Valve (IVV), gregpro50


  12. #12
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    1979 CA State ones were totally different in detail

    Quote Originally Posted by lnchewitt View Post
    ......The Pace Car, as can be seen, has seen many summers of south CA sun. Also, I will need large amounts of experience and help running the noodles around the engine.



  13. #13
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    Did you find a source for the color coded vacuum lines?
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert, 92 GT Vert.
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 14 Mustang CS/GT,
    15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    No, none yet. The inking idea has merrit, but it would wear off.

    Since the key is just reestablishing, normally a junked T, B or X code Fox in line 3.3 six has the best sources





    Stormin'Norman got the best suggestions and sources

    1. Hoses. NAPA et al sell 5/32" ID rubber/nitrile hose is 7.9 mm.

    2. Use it, and re-annotate each line from junction to junction with the NAPA small cable-tie kit. Normaly, about~ $7.00.

    They sell them under the clearance rack for a 1.50 under that with over 100 pieces.
    The range is more extensive than just

    Black,
    White,
    Green,
    Yellow,
    Blue,
    Red
    and Orange.

    Some cars with Cruise control use a Brown vacuum tube, and
    autos use a Black tube to a transmission modulator.

    3. Brown, Yellow, Green and other smaller diameter lines you get from the HVAC vent control hoses which are color-coded much like the under-hood vacuum hoses.

    GM, or Ford, Hit the junkyards and dig under a later than 1983 model vehicle's dash if it has AC. They aren't very long, but they can normaly handle the usual vacuum range, and they're flexible enough.


    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Stormin'Norman's source of color identification

    Red = Main vacuum
    Green = EGR function
    Orange = Heat control Valve (exhaust & intake) (AKA heat riser but more complex)
    YellowYellow = Distributor advance
    White = EGR vacuum (source)
    Black = Mainly used for the Evaporative emissions control
    Brown = Thermactor ACV or Diverter valve
    Blue = Throttle Kicker control
    Pink = Thermactor Air Bypass Valve (BPV)




    cable_tie_kit



    cable_tie_kit_002



    cable_tie_kit_003



    hvac_ac_cable_kit_001
    HVAC Control Panel AC Delco GM Original Equipment fits 1997-2000 Chevrolet Malibu has most of the colrs and variances in diameter. 2.8 mm (7/64") to 4 mm (5/32")




  15. #15
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default sources for color coded vac lines

    Color is used as assembly aid in factories.
    Easy to follow routing, minimizes assembly mistakes.

    Rubber hose with color stripe.
    Flexible color coded nylon tubing.

    Nylon- same as the milky white color included in aftermarket gauge kits, oil, vac/boost.
    The color coded ones look to be the same material.

    Not endorsing any seller or site.
    Posted links in the quest to form ideas on how to search and locate solid sources that:
    -Sell by the foot, not 100' rolls.
    -Are convenient to purchase from, ultimately local over the counter;
    -Choice of colors with correct measurements;
    -At reasonable cost;
    -Is correct material for under hood automotive apps.

    Salvage yards, as usual, good source of correct material, can be like new. Not if in a hurry.

    Search words 'parker nylon tubing' found:
    Parker pdf file listing tubing choices.
    https://www.parker.com/literature/Pa...20B-Tubing.pdf

    Nylon
    https://www.grainger.com/category/ny...ecatalog/N-qx1
    https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tn/...167+4288247667
    https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/de...lickid=popcorn
    http://www.smcpneumatics.com/nylon.html

    Rubber
    https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odk...&_sacat=140695

  16. #16

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    Gents could use some help on my M81 vacuum lines. I posted up with pics on my "start thread" so hoping you all could take a peek at your cars and give me a hand! Also have some bad news on the rebuild I could use some ideas on!
    Thx!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  17. #17

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    Great job to have documented the lines. Mines are still original. I do understand the original owner didnīt change anything. I also taped the lines and made some ilustrations. Attached images if can help anyone else. I have plenty of them more if someone needs. Name:  Tubes 1.jpg
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  18. #18
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Georgez View Post
    Great job to have documented the lines. Mines are still original. I do understand the original owner didnīt change anything. I also taped the lines and made some illustrations. Attached images if can help anyone else. I have plenty of them more if someone needs.
    Please do so when you can. They are of value. The more ways these hose routings can be studied for clarification, the better.
    That is a lot of detailed work, worth documenting here to save it and add to other posts for future perspective.
    Eventually each hose, beginning to end, all branches, check valves, minor configuration changes for Calif, A/C, model year, etc will be shown.
    Additional info to augment the incomplete shop manual, and any on-car emissions decals, that do not show the complete setup.
    A few of us still have these engines and removed the hoses. Somehow, there are hose connections that remain in question.
    Even with great marking and video, numerous carb turbo vac hoses defy 100% restoration to factory routing once removed.
    Any paper road map is easier to figure out faster. Had to have took a lot of work at Ford to figure out the design.
    Have taken pics myself at car shows of this stuff. Rare to see carbed 2.3T at all, rarest in exact matching config., untouched.

  19. #19
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Since Mclaren replaced the stock hood with another, 1980 M81's don't have a VECI label, so m81mclaren cannot quote his existing

    engine type,
    trans and
    engine code from your VECI label.

    In any case its not 1979.


    An example for a non CA 2.3 carb Turbo 79 Mustang or 79 Capri is D9ZE 9C485 SB, code AJD

    This is a non CA, non feedback 1979 2.3 Turbo Carb Mustang and Capri VECI



    m81mclaren's VECI will be EOZE_9C485_xx with another three letter code.

    Calibration code for 1979 49 state Mustang/Capri 2.3L turbo is 9-2E-R93
    1979 Calif is 9-2R-R93


    No Vacuum Emmission Control Information diagrams existed on the engine bay VECI placard on Ford passenger cars untill 1981 on wards.

    It didn't even exist in the 1979 and 1980 Electrical and Vacuum Troubleshooting manual (EVTM).

    The 1979 Mustang/Capri EVTM has no detailed turbo vac schematics.

    1979 Ford Service Highlights 2.3L Turbo handbook does.

    The car was the VECI before 1981

    Jim Koch has been a wealth of info on this.


    See http://myzephyrs.com/VAC_2.3/index.html

    He has 107 VECI diagrams from 1978-1983
    gr79 feels that Diagram 12 of 107 , 9-2E-R0, might be the 1979 CA one, the closest match



    http://myzephyrs.com/VAC_2.3/http://...E-R0.html.html


    I think Diagram 22 of 107 might be the 1979 CA one.

    9-2R-R11

    http://myzephyrs.com/VAC_2.3/9-2R-R11.html




    A CA or CO 1979 stickers differs to the other 48 states 1979 cars.

    The CA and CO 1980 sticker differs to the other 48 states, and are 4speed/5 speed and Automatic specific.

    Everything 1980 had a primary light off catalyst, and feedback control carb everywhere. Canadian Cobras might have been different.

    Feedback carbs are the California and maybee Colorado 1979 types, and are very different to the other 1979 non feedback carb turbo's.

    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    Gents could use some help on my M81 vacuum lines. I posted up with pics on my "start thread" so hoping you all could take a peek at your cars and give me a hand! Also have some bad news on the rebuild I could use some ideas on!
    Thx!
    m81mclaren, check and match one of these 12.

    47 or 51. One of these is likely to be your 1980 M81 VECI diagram

    0-01H-R10 1980, 40 of 107 These have the dot 4RNR, but its not for a turbo CA MANUAL 4 or 5 speed
    0-01H-R15 1980, 41 of 107 49 States A/C, NON A/C These have the dot 4RNR, but its not for a turbo CA MANUAL 4 or 5 speed
    0-01S-R11 1980, 42 of 107 * CA Auto, A/C, NON A/C These have the dot 4RNR, but its not for a turbo CA MANUAL 4 or 5 speed
    0-1B-R0 1980, 43 of 107
    0-1B-R11 1980, 44 of 107 49 States A/C, NON A/C
    0-1B-R12 1980, 45 of 107 49 States A/C, NON A/C
    0-1G-R0 1980, 46 of 107
    0-1P-R0 1980, 47 of 107 * CA Manual gearbox A/C, NON A/C

    http://myzephyrs.com/VAC_2.3/0-2T-R0%201980.html

    0-21A-R0 1980, 48 of 107 49 States A/C, NON A/C
    0-21B-R0 1980, 49 of 107 49 States & Canada A/C, NON A/C
    0-2B-R0 1980, 50 of 107 49 States A/C, NON A/C

    0-2T-R0 1980, 51 of 107 * CA A/C, NON A/C

    http://myzephyrs.com/VAC_2.3/0-2T-R0%201980.html

  20. #20
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default Where, what, when

    nice post again xctasy
    See what i mean? Engine controls, non electronic vac op.
    So many variations, intermixing of everything, over a short time span of a few years.
    Engine, brakes, drive trains, etc, are more well documented for interchange and mods.

    Clear schematics resembling circuit boards. Actual 3D hardware is scrambled up, going everywhere.
    The hard part is matching schematics to photos (or what we see live), of the same things.
    Two different worlds. On paper and 3D reality. A challenge to DIY reverse engineer for whatever reason.

    Ford would have had to use the whole underneath of the hood to fit everything in a giant VECI sticker.
    And 16 colors from the Crayola box.

    Later, EFI PCM's, and all its sub parts, replaced most 'analog' hose arrays with 'digital' wire and connectors.
    Cant imagine how many wire color codes are used in new cars.
    Equal or worse than the hose mess. Makes vac hose controls look simple.

    Old design parts are fairly clear as to why they are there, but can be a guess as to interaction with other parts.
    Parts have 'names', but not enough info to make sort of a timeline as to when they are online or off.
    At least to the DIY, who now has the burden of repair, since techs from back then have moved on.

    Without one main reference source, it will make restoration impossible someday soon.
    The engineering data is Ford's information and what they do or have done with it. Some details lost forever?
    Their shop manual, tech service sheets, service highlights, and internet posts mentioned, cover most of it.
    At least enough to have give some clue to, say, making things work while omitting half of it.
    Helps cut trial and error to find out what-does-what-to-what or not.

  21. #21

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    Awesome everyone. Xtasy the last one 0-2T-R0 looks like the closest match for me 1980 CA with AC and manual. I have a few similar I printed a long time ago from Autozone that are no longer posted there. Would love to get to a point where I can figure things out without empty or blocked off ports. I'm laughing at Georgez's last picture as it looks a lot like mine before disassembly with all those tags! I have to do this for a third time to get the turbo off and replace the carbon seal so not looking forward to it!
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  22. #22
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Default misclocking compressor housing will cause alarm

    You prob know this, but have to remind/alert anyone who may never have done the job on these engines.
    Me? Never. TC redo was done at a major area rebuilder. They messed up.
    I did not know this until too late.
    It is one repair lesson on these engines one never forgets once aware of what can happen.

    Turbo housings must be scribed to re-index (clock) them exactly as before.
    Multiple marking is wise.
    If the clocking is off after reassembly, major trouble can happen when reinstalling tc assy to manifold.
    Do not want to crack that oil return flange when reinstalling the tc.
    I did. Ear cracked off. Major bummer. Bad oil leak. Car was not drive-able.
    The clocking was off. Flange did not sit flat on manifold. Trying to torque that out snapped the part.
    This is the piece bolted underside of the turbo bearing cassette and secures the tc to the intake at the oil return area.

    Lucky i had a spare.
    They are of cast aluminum.
    Have not found a source for new/used ones, nor a suitable substitute.
    Billet would be nice.

    The turbine side connects to exhaust pipes and hangs out the back.
    Miss-clocking this one simply causes misalignment to the crossover and down pipe.
    All are hard to reclock in car. Cannot access all the housing bolts.
    Last edited by gr79; 04-03-2018 at 11:10 PM.

  23. #23

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    GR, we like pics. You mean this part here?


    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    You prob know this, but have to remind/alert anyone who may never have done the job on these engines.
    Me? Never. TC redo was done at a major area rebuilder. They messed up.
    I did not know this until too late.
    It is one repair lesson on these engines one never forgets once aware of what can happen.

    Turbo housings must be scribed to re-index (clock) them exactly as before.
    Multiple marking is wise.
    If the clocking is off after reassembly, major trouble can happen when reinstalling tc assy to manifold.
    Do not want to crack that oil return flange when reinstalling the tc.
    I did. Ear cracked off. Major bummer. Bad oil leak. Car was not drive-able.
    The clocking was off. Flange did not sit flat on manifold. Trying to torque that out snapped the part.
    This is the piece bolted underside of the turbo bearing cassette and secures the tc to the intake at the oil return area.

    Lucky i had a spare.
    They are of cast aluminum.
    Have not found a source for new/used ones, nor a suitable substitute.
    Billet would be nice.

    The turbine side connects to exhaust pipes and hangs out the back.
    Miss-clocking this one simply causes misalignment to the crossover and down pipe.
    All are hard to reclock in car. Cannot access all the housing bolts.
    Current FEP:
    1980 M81 McLaren Carb Turbo 2.3T #003P ... IT'S ALIVE after a 22 year slumber thread!

    Past FEP:
    1986 Capri GS 5.0- very missed but in goods hands
    1985 LTD SSP- quick little fox 5.0

  24. #24

    Default

    I'm here new member

    Let me add my experience, I've had half a year of adjustments Mustang 2.3 turbo


    Intake (metal) line connected to hose with clamps:


    • #1 RNR to Spark retard switches (when is boost, the spark is retarded) - (original)
    • #4 RNR goes to T splitter. From this T to carb (direct to F port (power-valve) and via check valve to Venturi port), and second part of T goes accross check valve to wastegate (primary port) across check valve control that to wastegate goes positive pressure only (not vacuum).

    Secondary port of wastegate can be connected to MAN PLN or let it open to Atmosphere, but not caped!
    (modified)

    MAN PLN (tee after carb).
    • hose to vacuum delay valve and goes directly to distributor (which delays a vacuum signal to distributor during fast changes in throttle) - (modified)
    • hose to master cylinder (break booster) - (original)
    • hose to A/C air condition - (original)


    Adjustments
    • Other vaccuum hose deleted/disconnected (Purge line to charol canister, CWR/ EGR / smog pump / ported vacuum / etc.)
    • Only intake (RNR) and manifold vacuum (MAN PLN) used (non ported from carburator)
    • Two control solenoids disconnected (hose and electrical)
    • EGR valve on turbo is caped
    • PCV disconnected from air filter and installed small filter (blue)


    CARB:
    • disassembled
    • Cleaned
    • adjustment IDLE / richness of the mixture -- two screws on carb


    Everything works great, at idle steady vacuum 25mmHg.. (before was 17 mmHg and non steady, due to some vacuum leakage and wrong connection)



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    Last edited by Meela; 07-03-2018 at 10:06 AM.

  25. #25
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    3,461

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by m81mclaren View Post
    GR, we like pics. You mean this part here?
    This one. Outer holes for manifold bolts, inner for tc.
    Mounts over the manifold oil drain hole, tc sits on top of it.
    Name:  turbocharger flange.jpg
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