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  1. #1
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    Default Looking at a car with minor fire damage

    Hi guys. Looking at a car soon with minor fire damage from a botched radio install. He says it burnt the wiring, dash, and windshield. He already has a new dash and the wiring, just hasn't put the car back together. What plugs do I need to connect for it to run so I can test the engine and clutch? I know there's the plug for the fuel pump that runs across the dash and I assume the ignition has a plug somewhere. Any pictures of what that plug might look like, or any others I might not have thought of?

    https://hickory.craigslist.org/cto/d...445374718.html
    '86 Mustang GT T-top. GT40P swap, Maximum Motorsports subframe/coilovers, MGW shifter
    (RIP) '86 Mustang GT, T-top. Cipher's old car
    '91 Wrangler. 4.0, 5 speed, 8.8 swapped, locked, lifted, caged
    -Steve

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    I trust you can buy this car a hell of a lot cheaper than $1800!

    If not run away!

    It will take a special buyer to buy this car in this condition so I would suggest you consider buying the car based upon parts value and not worry about getting it running. If YOU get the car running you will just make the seller think it's worth more as you have solved his problem of the car not running. It makes it MUCH EASIER for the seller to let you walk and move on to the next guy who might pay "Mo Money"!

    Wiring and rust repair are the 2 biggest turn-off's to most buyers when looking at project car for purchase therefore "I" do not see a lot of potential buyer's beating a path to his door especially at the seller's inflated asking price!
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually

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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    As someone who is in the middle of repairing after a fire, remember this, there can be a lot of hidden damage. The parts that might be needed that you or the seller don't know about could start adding up fast. Like vintageracer says, I hope you can buy it a lot cheaper than $1800. I'm not sure I'd give half that. especially not knowing if it runs. And it looks like it has been years since it has been run. (Even more problems and $$$$).

  4. #4
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    I saw that add but it does not say it was in a fire, what else could be wrong this is not disclosed? I would offer $500 as a parts car and walk away if told no.

    "86gt mustang t top 5.0 5 speed needs the dash put back together purchased it this way haven't messed with it it runs but not at the moment with some things unplugged for dash call or text me show contact info
    $1800 "

  5. #5

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    To quote my hero Al Bundy...

    1986 GT T Top- stock except for magnaflow cat back
    1990 LX vert- 500hp V3 and all that stuff
    2013 GT- usual bolt ons

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by sm41 View Post
    What plugs do I need to connect for it to run so I can test the engine and clutch? I know there's the plug for the fuel pump that runs across the dash and I assume the ignition has a plug somewhere. Any pictures of what that plug might look like, or any others I might not have thought of?
    First, imho, unless you were planing on it as a parts car, or doing a full wiring job (like for a stripper race only car), I also say:
    "Run, Forrest! RUN!"





    As for the technical question, that's an EFI car.
    To run, that engine, requires the wiring to the EEC, and power to the ECC. Otherwise, the injectors, idle control valve, TFI, etc won't get energized.

    To turn over the engine, just jumper the starting relay.
    But, imho, unless you're planning on doing a compression test, and maybe look for oil pressure, then you'd likely get as much from just turning the crank with a breaker bar.

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Yep, call it a parts car.

    Honestly its way nicer than my 1986 is but what it lacks is the ability to move under its own power and that's huge.

    Give it's a T-top it's worth a little more.

    I would not give more than $800 for it --- period. The words I would use on the seller if he tries to BS his way to a better price is: keep it.

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    I concur with those who think that car is worth no where close to the asking price. It's going to take a ton of work to get it running and of course there is no way to tell what kind of condition the entire drive train is in. It is indeed a parts car.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    How in the hell do you botch a radio install bad enough to set the car on fire? If he or she could not do a better job than that on a simple task, imagine what kinds of other suspect "repairs" have been made to this car.

    I agree that I would offer parts price ($500-800) for this car and see where it goes.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

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  10. #10
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    Thanks guys. When I called him back, he said he's gotten it running by jumping the fuel pump relay and the ignition. Still seems like a pretty big gamble that nothing else is trashed.
    '86 Mustang GT T-top. GT40P swap, Maximum Motorsports subframe/coilovers, MGW shifter
    (RIP) '86 Mustang GT, T-top. Cipher's old car
    '91 Wrangler. 4.0, 5 speed, 8.8 swapped, locked, lifted, caged
    -Steve

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Pretend you're in Missouri and tell him "show me".

    Even then it's trashed and requires a one year only 32 year old wiring harness.

    Lord only knows what else you will find but know that you will find big problems and spend a small fortune. Cars that are not all there are really still a parts car at the end of the day.

    also verify the 1352# on the T5 and make sure it has an 8.8.

    Look at evidence of true mileage like condition of seat bolsters, steering wheel, arm rest, rim condition, etc.

  12. #12
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    True. I'm usually pretty optimistic, sometimes to a fault, so I always try to get plenty of opinions to bring me back down to earth. If he decides to put it back together, I'll continue, until then I'm out. Thanks.
    '86 Mustang GT T-top. GT40P swap, Maximum Motorsports subframe/coilovers, MGW shifter
    (RIP) '86 Mustang GT, T-top. Cipher's old car
    '91 Wrangler. 4.0, 5 speed, 8.8 swapped, locked, lifted, caged
    -Steve

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    The one year only wiring harness statement rings very true for me also. $450 for a used under hood main harness.

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