Close



Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast
Results 51 to 75 of 188
  1. #51
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  2. #52
    FEP Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Lake City Pa 16423
    Posts
    510

    Default

    You have a leaking head gasket after it warms up. You have replaced everything up to the point of head gaskets. Cruising at highway speeds, you should never have it over heat with that much air passing through he radiator. I don't care that you pressure tested it already, it's leaking under driving conditions. Sorry to give you the bad news.

  3. #53

    Default

    The kit would have detected the gasses in the exhaust?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  4. #54
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
    Posts
    2,285

    Default

    Yes this is my point. It does not over heat until I get off the highway, at which point either the coolant boils over / overflows or has already been overflowing and has lost enough to lose cooling efficiency. Most of the time there is no over-heating, I just smell the hot coolant with the top down and I know it overflowed.

    I have tested with the block test 6 ways to Sunday and it doesn't change color at all. I've tested after letting the engine warm up 45 minutes - no change. I have tested in the radiator after the coolant has overflowed by bleeding off the pressure, removing the cap, and sticking the tester with liquid in there and sucking vacuum through it - still no change. Surely if the headgasket was leaking, there would be SOME remnants of exhaust gas in there that would react with the blue liquid? Even a little bit. I get zero change. The blue stays dark blue.

    I have never had a cooling system problem in this car for all 214k miles until now. And of all car issues I've ever diagnosed, this one is the hardest and makes no sense. Even the radiator shop was totally stumped.

    My water pump is an Airtex AW4024. Can anyone tell me is that is incorrect? It is what Rock Auto, Amazon, and ASC/Airtex list for my car. It is exactly the same as the one that came off my car (previously an ASC, parent/same company as Airtex), which worked fine for 40k miles before I did the intake gaskets, replaced the heater core, placed a restrictor, and replaced the coolant with Prestone/Freezetone 50/50 mix. Do I have the wrong pump?

    Am I missing something brutally obvious? Should I replace the Motorcraft thermostat again with a Stant? 180 degrees (but that seems like a band-aid)?

    Edit: this last experience was the first one in a very long time where I actually saw the temperature go up. I immediately pulled over, popped the hood and the upper hose was hard. I bled the pressure off with the Stant cap and when removing the cap, the radiator was full. WTF? Even though the overflow was full, the radiator wasn't low either? I put the cap on, and as it sat there, I could hear bubbling in the cooling system. The upper hose started getting pressurized, and I could bleed off more pressure from the cap (the engine is off, mind you, so no combustion pressure to be added). It was like the coolant was boiling. But how? I see coolant flowing when the cap is off, the upper hose is hot so the thermostat is opening. Right after I bled off the second round of pressure, I started the car and the temp went down and everything was fine. Even driving home later that night (granted I wasn't going 85 on the highway and it was colder out). I am losing my mind.
    Last edited by 85stanggt; 01-07-2019 at 10:21 PM.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  5. #55
    FEP Senior Member Dave9052's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Saint Clair MI 48079
    Posts
    641

    Default

    When you release the pressure on the system, even though the engine is not running, the coolant can start to boil due to the release of pressure which lowers the boiling point of coolant. At this point the motor is still very hot, and it is over the boiling point of your coolant, and will boil over, or build up pressure if you put the cap back on. Great info on this site! https://www.cgj.com/2013/05/14/how-d...sure-cap-work/
    Last edited by Dave9052; 01-08-2019 at 10:08 AM.

  6. #56
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
    Posts
    2,285

    Default

    ^Yes, I was thinking about that last night. I was probably inducing it to boil by venting it. Nice link thanks.

    I got a coolant tester and it shows good boiling and freezing points.

    Now I'm wondering about the only thing left in the system that wasn't replaced that was mentioned a bit ago, which is the fan clutch. Maybe it's not overflowing WHILE on the highway, but only after I get off the highway and the residual heat from the higher RPMs gets dumped into the radiator. The clutch may have enough in it to keep it cool around town and sitting in the driveway, but may not be engaging enough when things are really hot? A new clutch is only like $30, so I think it makes sense to just replace it, even though it looks good and the fan has resistance when I spin it or when the engine is running?
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  7. #57

    Default

    Your serpentine belt is going under your water pump pulley? Yes / no? Clutch made a huge difference on my car. I would be worried about the pump, Amazon says it is ok for an 84 but not an 86, no where could I find whether it was reverse rotation.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  8. #58
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    5,141

    Default

    Had a 'getting abnormally hot' problem last summer in the Ranger. Never runs hot. 190 or so. 2.3 stock thermostat.
    Aftermarket temp gauge started climbing from normal 190 to 210-225 in cruise traffic. Ok when driving.
    Was fan clutch. I buy lifetime ones, so it was 'free'.
    Old fan clutch had resistance, but never came on with a 'roar'. when over 200 or on cold start up.
    No problems since. It will roar for a few seconds on cold start, heading out from home then quiet down.

    Another puzzle a few years ago. Fan was hitting shroud. Ran hot at low speed, like sidestreets. Freeway fine.
    Cab mounts were rusted out and dropped the front rad support just enough to allow fan to bub shroud.
    Clue was plastic fan blade edges and shroud had evidence of rubbing.
    Replaced mounts, checked fan to shroud to fan clearance. Even all the way around. That problem was solved.

    Aftermarket mechanical temp gauge is of value monitoring engine temp, like a second more accurate opinion.
    Teed it into the heater core inlet hose from thermostat.
    Same with oil pressure and volt gauges. Even have a vacuum gauge in the truck. All have payed their way.

  9. #59
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Grand Junction, CO/RR TX
    Posts
    14,206

    Default

    At this point, I believe a new fan clutch is in order. Sounds like yours is either weak or just not engaging fully when the engine hot. Cheap insurance at this point.

    Also not sure if there is an issue. Here is a diagram for the belt routing just in case yours is routed improperly.

    Name:  Belt Routing.JPG
Views: 112
Size:  74.9 KB
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  10. #60
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
    Posts
    2,285

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Your serpentine belt is going under your water pump pulley? Yes / no? Clutch made a huge difference on my car. I would be worried about the pump, Amazon says it is ok for an 84 but not an 86, no where could I find whether it was reverse rotation.
    Not sure what you mean by "under" the water pump pulley. It is routed just like the sticker on the radiator support. It wraps around the water pump pulley with the smooth side of the belt before diving down and around the crank. All other pulleys have the belt run around them as if a giant circle, but the belt pulls in and around the pump backwards similar to the tensioner.

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    At this point, I believe a new fan clutch is in order. Sounds like yours is either weak or just not engaging fully when the engine hot. Cheap insurance at this point.

    Also not sure if there is an issue. Here is a diagram for the belt routing just in case yours is routed improperly.

    Name:  Belt Routing.JPG
Views: 112
Size:  74.9 KB
    The belt is routed as in the upper left diagram "Fox 5.0 belt routing"

    Fan clutch is on order from Napa. I hope that's it. It blows a ton of air with the hood open, but now that you mention it, I don't recall hearing the roar I have heard before. I hope it is as simple as that.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  11. #61

    Default

    I ran without any fan on 100°+ days when my fan clutch broke and blew apart the fan shroud but some how didn't hurt the radiator.

    It's not rocket science, the fan doesn't do much of anything above 40mph or so. If you are overheating at freeway speeds, it's not the fan or clutch.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  12. #62
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
    Posts
    2,285

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    I ran without any fan on 100°+ days when my fan clutch broke and blew apart the fan shroud but some how didn't hurt the radiator.

    It's not rocket science, the fan doesn't do much of anything above 40mph or so. If you are overheating at freeway speeds, it's not the fan or clutch.
    The temp doesn't rise while on the highway, only after I've been on the highway it'll overflow. Most of the time the temp still won't rise, but sometimes it will. I'll try the clutch, because at the point, what's another $30 after having replaced literally everything else lol.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  13. #63
    FEP Supporter
    qikgts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Rockledge, FL
    Posts
    1,458

    Default

    What is the pressure rating of the new cap?

    I just looked at what Rock Auto recommends for '85's and they show a Stant pressure release cap that has an SAE range of 14-18 psi, though it shows it's rated for the correct 16 psi. Maybe yours is operating on the high side?

    It would be cheap to just try another cap, maybe like a motorcraft 16 psi one, as it's like a $6.00 item.

    BTW, not doubting your choice to swap the fan clutch...
    '85 GT

  14. #64
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    620

    Default

    Definitely install a mechanical temp gauge, it's 20 bucks, and takes about ten minutes to install. I like mechanical as they don't need any electric wires, and I like how they work. I clipped mine to the bottom of the dashboard on the passenger side so it was out of the way but easy to see. Route the wire through an existing hole in the firewall. Keep your old sender, and tie off the sender wire so you can reinstall it later. You don't actually know how hot the car is right now, this is the only way to find out. Once you have it in, you won't take it out. Nothing better than actually seeing the temp while driving. you can see when the thermostat opens, you can see what happens when the car is getting hot. It will make it infinitely easier to tell what is going on with the car when you know how hot it's getting. Under load on a warm day fully heated up, 205 isn't unusual. Keep the thermostat rating that goes with the motor, proper temperature is important to the thing working correctly. It wouldn't be unusual for the hoses to be firm when the system is hot and under pressure, if the reservoir is full then the release valve is working. Keep in mind the coolant expands when hot which is why the radiator is full even when coolant has moved over to the reservoir. Ironically, when you release pressure, I'm not sure how well it will draw back after. Should be okay, but you might need to check it when it's cold to make sure the radiator is still full. I replaced the fan clutch on mine too. It was a pretty easy job. Once you do that, pretty much everything has been replaced at that point. if it's still getting hot you can check other things like timing, etc. More than likely its the stuff you're already working on, but you need a temp gauge to tell you if it's actually overheating in the first place. You're almost there, you'll get it.

  15. #65
    FEP Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Location
    Lake City Pa 16423
    Posts
    510

    Default

    Also make sure to check or replace the coolant overflow hose. If it has a small crack in it, it will not allow the coolant to draw back into the radiator when it cools down.

  16. #66
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
    Posts
    2,285

    Default

    Thanks everyone. Should have the fan clutch tomorrow. I definitely agree on the mechanical temp gauge. I'm trying to keep the car all original, but for diagnostic purposes it would help. I think this may be the final piece of the puzzle. Even though the fan is running and air is flowing, it could be slipping more at higher RPMs. It probably just hasn't died completely. Here's to hoping.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  17. #67
    FEP Senior Member Dave9052's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Saint Clair MI 48079
    Posts
    641

    Default

    Good luck

  18. #68
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    620

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 85stanggt View Post
    Thanks everyone. Should have the fan clutch tomorrow. I definitely agree on the mechanical temp gauge. I'm trying to keep the car all original, but for diagnostic purposes it would help. I think this may be the final piece of the puzzle. Even though the fan is running and air is flowing, it could be slipping more at higher RPMs. It probably just hasn't died completely. Here's to hoping.
    My car was 100% original, I understand how you feel about it. I mounted the gauge temporarily under the dash using one of those large paper clips that's about 2" wide (the alligator kind) it held it perfectly. I just never took it out, because I really liked having it. It's nice to put an actual number to what "a" in "normal" means!

  19. #69

    Default

    I have an afr gauge and oil pressure gauge mounted on the left below the dash, there are a couple of mounting screws there to the right of the fog lamp switch so no need to damage anything. If you have a forward rotation pump in a reverse rotation engine it probably functions okay at low loads but may fail at high rpm, not really sure though. If the clutch doesn't fix it, I would seriously start investigating if you have the wrong pump in there.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  20. #70
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    SE Michigan
    Posts
    5,141

    Default gauge mount options

    Have added gauge packs to all my vehicles since the 70's.

    Bought Bosch temp gauge last summer from Advance.
    Autogage temp gauge (3 gauge set) lasted long, finally quit. Oil pressure one long gone.
    18.00-25% online coupon= 13.50. Also avail in white face.
    Took out ashtray, triple gauges fit in good. Added Autometer tilt rings that adjust face angles.
    Have 'A' pillar pod in the Mustang for boost/vac gauge. Out of the way, easily visible, no non-reversible mods needed.
    Location of mechanical temp gauge is limited by sender tubing length.
    Attachment 125842
    Attachment 125843
    1980 vintage:
    Attachment 125844

    Had the VDO in the VW's. Looked factory. Since engine was air cooled, used the temp gauge for oil temp via VDO dipstick sender. The mounting stud was reversible from bottom to top. Mounted it under center dash in front of shifter.
    Wanted to keep it but was selling point of the car (so i could buy my Cobra). New owner wanted it to stay.
    Attachment 125845
    Last edited by gr79; 01-09-2019 at 06:27 PM.

  21. #71
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
    Posts
    2,285

    Default

    Replaced the fan clutch and drove it to work today. It was cold this morning and rush hour was full force, so maybe I drove 60-70 mph for the last few miles of the trip. Coolant level was perfect when I got there. A little went into the overflow as expected from the fluid expanding.

    Threw the top down for the way home. 73*F outside, no A/C. No traffic, so ripped along at 70-85 all 15 miles home. Got off the highway and I could see the needle sitting a little higher. All was still ok though for the mile or two off the highway until I hit the first light. I can smell the coolant and see the gauge going up. (Yes, I don't have numbers to put to the stock gauge, but it's pretty accurate in terms of showing temp change.)

    I shut the car off at the light and pulled right over after getting through the light and the temp was up to "L". No heat either. Coolant was boiling -- bubbles coming out of tube into overflow tank (which was full). I let it sit and cool for a few minutes before bleeding off the pressure in the system to get the cap off. Coolant was boiling while bleeding pressure. After bleeding off the pressure, I put the cap back on and started the car. It sucked all the coolant right back in from the overflow. Temp started going down as expected. Took the cap off and the level was down about 4 or 5 inches from the neck. Topped off with distilled and made it the 2 miles home.

    I am at a total loss.

    - I am going to drain everything and refill with new 50/50 Prestone/Distilled just to take the Freezetone variable out of this equation (Freezetone went in when I did the intake gaskets)
    - Going to put a temp gauge in. Can I tee it into the stock spot and keep the factory also?
    - Have to look at the WP again (again, old water pump worked great for 10 years until my intake gasket job. new pump acts the same)
    - Could the head gasket be bad and still pass the block test?

    So depressing.
    Last edited by 85stanggt; 01-11-2019 at 01:59 PM.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  22. #72

    Default

    Since you are refilling, might as well try a new thermostat. I am not hung up on Motorcraft, a Stant Superstat is just as good.

    I think you have fought it long enough. If this doesn't work, time to take the intake back off and start your search. "if it worked before you touched it and it doesn't work now, it's something you did!" quote from my father.

    Kenny

  23. #73
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Ft. Lauderdale, FL
    Posts
    2,285

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mudgepondexpress View Post
    Since you are refilling, might as well try a new thermostat. I am not hung up on Motorcraft, a Stant Superstat is just as good.

    I think you have fought it long enough. If this doesn't work, time to take the intake back off and start your search. "if it worked before you touched it and it doesn't work now, it's something you did!" quote from my father.

    Kenny
    Totally agree. What could I have done with the intake that could have messed things up?? It's two gaskets and a couple end gaskets??? I subscribe to the same quote, though. Let's try swapping the coolant back to good 'ol 50/50 and throwing the temp gauge in there. Just got the stuff. Time to drain.

    Edit: and just to add, the fan clutch wasn't a waste, since the new one definitely has more resistance. I put the old one face down on top of my garbage can, which it says on it is how to store it, and it leaked out out onto the can. So that was bad anyway.

    Going to see if I can test the boiling point (without one of those inaccurate testers) of my current coolant mix.
    Last edited by 85stanggt; 01-11-2019 at 04:57 PM.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  24. #74
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Inspect the intake gasket placement vs coolant passages. Not all intake gaskets are created equal. Some gaskets are considered directional-- they have to be installed the correct way for coolant to flow properly.

    Some intakes have provisions for rear coolant crossover via the intake while other intakes only have this provision in the front. Put in a gasket that blocks the front and allows the back its a disaster -- nothing ever gets back to the thermostat. Put in a gasket that blocks the back but allows the front, no big deal as many intakes don't even have provisions for rear cross-over. It was mainly some 351W intakes that did that in the late 70's.

    That being said -- coolant passage changes are also at the heart of what modifications have to be done during the placement of a M/Cleveland/Boss style head on a SBF/Windsor style block. But those passage changes are mainly block to head, not head to intake.... Albeit every clevor intake I've looked at has provisions for both front and rear coolant passages in the intake if memory serves correctly.

    Some problems with gaskets vs coolant passages could begin to explain some misbehavior. Extremely high temperature water is trapped where it is until RPM comes down and pressure through the system goes down. Then you start to see this instant boilover effect.

    Not sure if this stuff is the culprit but intake and intake gaskets are among the things you mentioned having changed if memory serves correctly.

    Makes sense to tear it apart and post up detailed pictures of how the intake is placed on the gasket and how the gasket is placed on the head, etc.

    Then if that doesn't tell us whats wrong we can discuss next best recommendations.

    Just looking at what last changed and thinking about common mistakes involving that stuff. I could be way off -- no way to know for sure until we look at the details together.


    Another one....... and I could be ENTIRELY off base here. What about Exhaust Gas Recirculation. EGR.

    Back in high school my dad and brother and I rebuilt a 350 Buick for my brother's 1979 Grand Prix when we converted it from 231 to 350. He was a GM guy, I was and still am a Ford guy.... but I do know my way around the old GM **** because my brother's stuff was ALWAYS and forever broken.

    Went 0.030 over, added a highrise 4-barrel intake, put a massively oversized carb on it, converted it to HEI, modded the HEI for high RPM, went to a ported Buick exhaust manifold, etc. When we initially fired the engine after rebuild it didn't want to idle for **** even though we knew the carb kit was the correct one and we had done everything correctly. It also didn't carry jack for vacuum even though it should have done OK with the cam we had selected. We played with it and got it so it would run sorta OK and took it for a drive and ran into hugely massive overheating problems. we tried EVERYTHING and couldn't figure out what was wrong.

    Then it dawned on us -- what if the EGR valve was stuck open. It would send temps sky-high because way too much exhaust would get circulated all the time, it would explain the poor idle vacuum, etc. Well-- easy enough to check that theory. We fabricated a block off plate for the EGR out of an old hood skin and used an old EGR valve we had cut the cuts off of as a backer plate. Bolted it down, fired it up, and instantly the idle jumped way past 3000.

    Once we put the carb setting back where they had been, low and behold there it was. It idled so nice and smooth you could stand a nickel on edge on the air cleaner. And it immediately stopped acting like a bitch about engine temps and ran great.
    Last edited by erratic50; 01-11-2019 at 06:48 PM.

  25. #75

    Default

    Interesting. My engine temp was hotter and less predictable when mine was disconnected (but obviously not stuck open).

    One other thing that made my engine run crazy hot is retarded timing. I assume that can't be the issue here though, you didn't muck with the distributor at all?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

Page 3 of 8 FirstFirst 12345 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •