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  1. #26
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I would recommend testing the cooling system and the radiator cap first. You can rent the tester tools from O'reilly Auto. Test the cap to make sure that it is holding the pressure stamp on the cap (13-16lbs in most cases) If the cap is good, then set it aside and test the cooling system to make sure it is holding pressure at just below the cap rating.

    If the cap fails, then get a new cap, but still check the cooling system. If the system doesn't hold pressure that shows you have a leak somewhere. I just went thru all of this with my Powerstroke Diesel. Being able to pressurize the system finally showed that the water pump O ring was leaking under pressure, but would seal just fine below that. Chased that for over 2 weeks thinking it was other things when using the tester showed me what the problem was in less than an hour! Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
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    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
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    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

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    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
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  2. #27
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    I have been fighting cooling issues with a couple of my cars.
    -New Champion aluminum radiator did not provide enough cooling. The stock radiator worked fine until it leaked. Went back to stock.
    -Questionable new thermostat. Motorcraft wrong rating for car.
    -Fan clutch difficult to test. Replaced.
    -Flush cooling system and back flush until clean. Use commercial cleaner too.
    -Always use a spring in the lower hose. Yes, they can rust away.

    After all that, I have 2 cars fixed and 1 needing assembly. My cars are stock so there is no reason for running hot.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  3. #28
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the input.

    I do believe this is the same problem, it has been months since I posted only because I don't drive the car a whole lot. I think it's the same issue just less bad because of my new thermostat.

    The cap on there now is the one I used for the last few years. My original cap spewed coolant like this and my dad suggested I change it. I did and didn't have that issue again. Now maybe this replacement cap is aging and I need a new one. They're cheap so I will replace it with a Motorcraft.

    I have the exhaust gas in the coolant tester. Just have to try it out. I feel like it does smell gassy in the radiator when I take the cap off, but maybe I'm crazy.

    When I replaced the thermostat, I tested the hoses, t-stat housing, and all with my infrared thermometer to make sure things were good. Nothing read over 190*F. Will consider a real gauge for testing purposes if some of these simple fixes don't do it.

    The lower hose definitely doesn't have a spring in it. I can squeeze it with my hand quite easily. I remember replacing that hose years and years ago and wondering why the spring was in the old one. I figured the new hose was made different with a stiffer wall and didn't need it. Ugh I was a kid and didn't know better.

    Fan clutch is definitely good. Locks up and pulls a ton of air. Radiator is not leaking. Water pump seems to be doing good. No coolant leaks or residue anywhere around the engine. Thermostat was tested in boiling water before install.

    Here's my plan so far:
    Test for exhaust gas in coolant
    New upper and lower hoses and replace them because they're cheap.
    New spring for the lower hose if the new Motorcraft doesn't have one.
    New radiator cap
    And go from there
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  4. #29
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    One guy's opinion on the lower hose spring: http://www.martiauto.com/faqfocus.cfm?qid=20
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
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  5. #30
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Oh well now that's interesting.

    I guess I'll pull the radiator and have it tested/flushed while I have the system empty. It did stay empty for about a month while I was here-and-there working on the intake gaskets. I always notice a scale that is left behind when cooling system parts are left to dry...
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinVarnes View Post
    One guy's opinion on the lower hose spring: http://www.martiauto.com/faqfocus.cfm?qid=20
    Kevin is a knowledgeable source and his explanation may be correct for factory new cars. That does not explain why most replacements came with a spring for the last 50 years! Keep in mind that Marti Auto sells reproduction hoses for most older Mustangs and people probably started asking why they did not get a spring in the repro hose.

    CJ Pony Parts sells the spring separately for the 60s 5.0 cars. I would imagine it should fit today’s Foxes as well. If you knew exactly what would fix the problem, you would have done so by now. Sometimes you need to go outside the box for a solution. I would do the spring and move on to the next next fix if needed. Overheating can be a costly failure.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  7. #32
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Ok just another update. I drained the system and removed the radiator. Used my garden hose to back flush and spray out the fins. I used my fin straightening tool and straightened all the condensor fins also. I also bought a flush fluid from advance auto and let it sit in the radiator for about an hour and then hosed it all out. The instructions said to drive with it, but I didn't have time for that.

    I put the spring in my old lower hose, since the new hose was so tight I couldn't get it in. It fits perfect in the old hose, and I can't squeeze it down any more with my hand. I filled the system back up and left it a little low to run the block test. Before doing that, I could clearly see how much of the level in the radiator drops just revving the engine in neutral. There is a whole lot of fluid flow from that water pump. So much so that I do believe that lower hose could be collapsing.

    Block test: it passed that with flying colors. There was absolutely no change in color of the indicating liquid even after running it for 2+ minutes. There was zero oil in the coolant when I drained it and there is no coolant on the dipstick checking the oil.

    Topped off the radiator, capped it, and went for a drive to buy more coolant. Before I left, the overflow was like half full of coolant from when it overflowed before. I got on it up to about 3500 rpm. Stopped right away at advance auto to take a look and see if stuff spewed everywhere. I couldn't believe that the car actually sucked coolant IN from the overflow. I imagine that was from the pump sucking the coolant out of the radiator and creating a vacuum to suck the excess back in.

    So far so good. My infrared gauge measures 200*F at the t-stat housing with the A/C on and 90*F temps outside. The radiator measures about 160*F at those conditions. Turn the A/C off and it drops down to about 195*F and the radiator goes down to like 100*F.

    I will be daily driving this for the next couple weeks because the transmission in my BMW is unfortunately on its last legs. So I'll report back how things go.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  8. #33

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    It could, but it might be a small enough difference that it won't matter.

    That's why they have the exhaust testers for coolant.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
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  9. #34
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Need to post back here. Car is still overflowing coolant. I've replaced everything including the cap, except the radiator and water pump. I drove it round trip to drop my fiancee's car off at the shop and by the time I got home, there was coolant everywhere. Overflow full, shroud, radiator, a/c compressor everything soaked in coolant.

    I hosed it all off to clean things up and noticed that the water was steaming off the outside of the radiator. I thought that was weird. I restarted the car and measured around with my IR temp gun. The lower hose was 161*F whereas the upper was lower at like 145, which seemed weird. I'm figuring there was air in the system so the upper hose wasn't to temp.

    Then after turning the engine off I noticed even more steam as the water I sprayed to clean was evaporating. I put my hands on the backside of the radiator and noticed that in the middle of the radiator on the passenger side, it was scalding hot, but just past the middle on the driver's side it was cool. So does that mean the radiator is clogged?

    When I had the radiator out, I put my garden hose in it and it was flowing water through it, but maybe it's half clogged?
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  10. #35
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    I had a partially clogged rad in my SVO. Never overflowed, but would run hot esp in stop and go traffic even with the electric fan running.

    An old trick I used was to pour some CLR & water into the rad and let it **** for a bit. Then flush with LOTS of water. But only do this if you don't have any aluminum in the cooling system (esp the heater core - newer aftermarket units are aluminum).

    JT
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  11. #36

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    Is there any chance you are running the water pump backwards?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  12. #37
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    Did you ever put in a temp gauge? It would be helpful for you to know if it's overheating in the first place, it sounds like it is. The external thermometers are a useful way of quickly checking a temp on something, but you're requiring it to radiate through a rubber hose in order to read it. In any case, if the coolant in the top of the engine is hotter than the boiling point (keeping in mind that coolant doesn't boil at 212 degrees) when water gets sprayed on the hot tank at the top of the radiator, it's going to steam.

    But it sounds like you're getting to the bottom of it with the radiator. You might have warmer spots, especially if it's behind an AC condenser, or an oil cooler or anything else that might be blocking the cool air into it. But you shouldn't have a spot that's really hot and a spot right next to it that's just a little warm or even cool. I'm assuming that the shroud is still on the radiator, which greatly increases the air flow through it. If you have a radiator shop in the area it might be worth taking it over there to look at it and see if they can save it. Otherwise you'll be probably be buying or re-coring the radiator.

  13. #38
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Water pump has been on there for years.

    No I didn't put a temp gauge in yet. Super busy...I'm getting married this Saturday and one car is in the shop so my future wife is driving around my daily.

    Yes the shroud is on. The A/C was not on when this happened. The radiator was about as clearly hot-cold as you would ever get. There is a metal bar running down the middle of the radiator. Just to the passenger side of this it was scalding hot almost burned my hand. Just to the driver side it was barely warm. Honestly, if I hadn't been like "wow that's funny how the steam is coming from that side" and put my hand on it, I wouldn't have known.

    Before all this when I previously put the spring in the lower hose, I took the radiator out and used "flush" from the auto parts store to "clean" the radiator. You're supposed to drive around with the stuff in there, but I didn't have enough time for all that heating, cooling, draining, and filling. So I let it soak outside the car. Then I flushed the radiator out with the exiting water going into a bucket so I could see what particulates came out. Not much. But I can see scale in there.

    Fast forward to Sunday and it overflows but doesn't overheat (lost probably 1/2 gallon). I took the radiator out Sunday night (needed the car to get to work Monday and it was too late to buy one) and went to Walmart at 11:30pm and bought CLR and Bar Keeper's Friend. I soaked the radiator in CLR first for about 40 minutes. Then rinsed into the bucket again. Definitely got grit out and a thin 3" string of RTV. Then I mixed Bar Keepers Friend in hot water and filled the radiator. Went to sleep for about 3 hours, woke up, and went out to agitate the radiator for about 20 minutes tipping it side to side letting the liquid run around in there.

    Then drained it into the bucket again. Hard to tell what is bar keepers friend or scale since it's all white, but more stuff came out. Rinsed down with a baking soda mix to neutralize any of the oxalic acid and flush really good again.

    Reinstalled and refilled. The radiator took the new coolant much faster -- before it used to "settle" down as it filled the core. This time I just poured and that was it.

    Is it completely clean? No, I can clearly see all kinds of stuff floating in the coolant now...I guess it's getting all dislodged after the cleaners and would take a professional boil out to clean up, which I will do once we get the other car back. For now I'm hoping that was the issue and I can drive it without boiling over.

    Thanks everyone for the help. I'll post back if I can get it boiled out.
    Last edited by 85stanggt; 09-25-2018 at 08:54 AM.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  14. #39
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Still overflowing. Going to get the radiator boiled out and install a temp gauge. Losing my mind on this one.

    Am I overfilling it or something? I don't think so, because the radiator should be full of fluid when it's instead only air the first 4 inches of the radiator. The upper hose is pressurized. It makes me think the system is getting pressurized, but how? If no headgasket leak, it is just boiling the coolant due to bad radiator flow?

    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  15. #40
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    The radiator should be filled all the way to the top when cool, and the overflow tank should be full up to the "cool" line. The whole thing is pressurized when it gets hot, the radiator cap has a pressure relief valve on it to allow the extra pressure out into the reservoir tank. When it cools, the coolant shrinks and pulls a vacuum back, returning the expelled coolant in the reservoir back into the radiator, keeping it full.

    I'm pretty sure it's just a blocked radiator, from what you said, replacing it or having it cleaned out should fix this.

  16. #41
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Hey all, figured I would update this. I got my transmission in the BMW working again with a fluid change and some work to the valve body (phew), so the Mustang went back in the garage until I was able to figure things out.

    I ended up taking the radiator to a local shop here to have it boiled and rodded out. It was only 10% clogged. The coolant still overflowed. They were as interested in figuring this out as I was.

    I went back, and they pressure tested the whole system, tested all my caps, and gave me a new stant cap with the flip lever, which was a little taller to make sure the seal against the radiator neck was tight. We also left the pressure tester on there while I held the rpms up to around 2k in case there was a slow head gasket leak building pressure. No pressure build up.

    Then it sat for a good couple months. I got a new water pump and noticed the belt was pretty old so got a new belt. The belt was pretty glazed on the smooth side and has probably been on there for over 10 years. The old WP was on there since around '06. Figured I'd take the old one off, check the impeller, and put a new one on while I'm there.

    Well, the WP was internally in perfect shape, although there was a tiny bit of greasy residue starting around the weep hole and front bearing. The belt, however, was stretched and very glazed as I mentioned.

    New WP and new belt and the car seems to be doing pretty good. I bled the cooling system for like 30 minutes on an incline getting all the bubbles out and tested with the block test liquid twice during that time pulling a vacuum with ZERO indication of combustion gasses.

    So far, I took it on a couple highway drives and it seems to be holding steady in the reservoir. I hear the fan a bit more when the clutch is engaged. My thinking is maybe the belt was slipping under heavy acceleration from the drag of the fan and water pump and not getting the coolant circulated and cooled well enough causing a temporary boiling of the coolant and overflow from the tank.

    As embarrassing as it would be to have been the belt this whole time, I hope it is just that. And on the plus side, my cooling system is all brand new and good for another 10+ years.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  17. #42
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    At least you don't have to worry about any of that stuff not working! You'd probably have needed to do all that work anyway as maintenance, you just got it all done at once. You figure the radiator was somewhat plugged, keeping in mind you'd already done some flushing on your own before bringing it in, the thermostat wasn't working right, and it's frankly a good idea to replace your upper and lower hoses on the radiator every few years anyway. You added a restrictor to the heater core, which will help to prevent that from failing, which is a major PITA job with an AC car. It's likely that all of these things, combined with an aging water pump and failing belt contributed to the problem. So don't feel like you wasted your time. In any case, you know what parts are perfect at this point, so it's going to be a lot easier to figure it out if it's still overheating.

  18. #43

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    Do you have a serpentine or old fashioned belt on this? I am still thinking the backwards water pump theory.
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  19. #44
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Yeah for sure. It feels good to have it all done, I just hope there are no more issues. It's nice to be able to drive it again. I remember why I always liked working on this car, too...it's so relatively simple and the parts are incredibly cheap compared to my 20 year old BMW.

    Next up is the windshield, and then I need to figure out how to replace the rear main. It is leaking a lot. But I've never dropped a trans before.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  20. #45
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by emerygt350 View Post
    Do you have a serpentine or old fashioned belt on this? I am still thinking the backwards water pump theory.
    It's serpentine. I verified twice with ASC the water pump company. It seems I have the correct one and it's the same as the one that came off, which didn't have any issues for years until just recently.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  21. #46
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    I had the windshield replaced on mine, that was cheap too. I recall something like 170 bucks, installed.

  22. #47

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    The cool upper hose compared to the lower is what makes me think that. The belt is under the water pump pulley yes?
    1984.5 G.T.350 5.0 CFI AOD Convertible (TRX package, loaded)
    K&N filter in a stock dual snorkel, GT40 heads, Edelbrock 3721 intake, MSD 8456 Dist., MSD 8227 coil
    Comp cams XE254H, hypereutectic pistons
    Hooker Super Comp Shorty Equal Length Headers, catted BBK H-pipe, full custom duals
    Maximum Motorsports caster/camber plates and strut tower brace, 3.73 rear, dura grip (both Yukon)
    Ford Performance Springs, Firehawk A/S 225/55r16 on LMR TRX r390 wheels (street)
    Federal 595 rs-rr 245/40r17 and 255/40r17 on OE cobra r wheels (race)
    AOD rebuilt with a 6 clutch direct drum, Koline steels stacked with 8 clutches, Kevlar band, superior shift kit, new torque converter. --Everything else stock and fully functional.

  23. #48
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    When I put a windshield in my 86, I removed the trim and wipers then put a moving blanket on the hood then reclined the seat, put my feet on the glass, and pushed. Stupid how easy the glass came out and it was mostly intact. I scraped the factory butyl off and shot some rust inhibitor then paint anywhere there was bare metal making sure not to get any overspray past where the trim goes.

    Let it dry overnight then bought a new roll of butyl and stated in the bottom then went around it. Paid attention to getting the seam perfect

    i think I paid $75 for the windshield with tint towards the top. Walked into safelite and said the shipto was PS Repair, nearly it for pickup and the customer is cash. There are about 100 PS repairs and other similar names close enough to use i their nation wide system..... threw a Hondo on the counter and grabbed my change.

    been in there for a bit over 20 years, no leaks. Good to go.

    Took about 3 hours total
    Last edited by erratic50; 01-03-2019 at 09:05 PM.

  24. #49
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    So, I was hopeful, but no luck. The wife and I took it to the beach yesterday, and I started to smell coolant when I got off the highway. Then the temp started to increase. Pulled over and the coolant reservoir was full. The system was under full pressure, and I vented it with the Stant lever cap. Removed the radiator cap and the radiator was full ???. Recapped with the engine off and the pressure started to increase again. I think the coolant is boiling over? Like a lower than normal boiling point. Is there such a thing?

    The only thing I can think of is that way back when I first did the intake gaskets, I put new coolant in. I was at Advance Auto and got my coolant, but they didn't sell distilled water. They sell here in FL a product called Freezetone, which is a water replacement that supposedly has great corrosion inhibitors. I was skeptical and hesitant at the time, but all the other stores were closed to get distilled, so I went with it. Now I'm wondering if it's lowering the BP of the coolant so that running on the highway or under hard acceleration the coolant is boiling. WTF

    Could it be the restrictor I put in for the heater core? I put it into the hose at the intake end right after the fitting that comes out of the intake.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  25. #50
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Even in the winter in FL you should not need to run more than a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze to water. Honestly you could probably run a 30/70 anti-freeze to water ratio and be just fine.

    Bottom line is Anti-freeze does just that prevents freezing at 32 degrees and depending on mix ratio can prevent the coolant from freezing down into the -20 range. The problem is that anti-freeze at high concentrations is more likely to boil at a lower point than straight water. This could very well be your issue. I would seriously consider draining your system and adding back a 30/70 mixture or no more than 50/50 using distilled water and normal anti-freeze. Not sure what your lowest temps are this time of your in Tampa, but if you don't get below freezing for any number of days or the car is stored in the garage, I would seriously consider the 30/70 mix. You can always top off with additional anti-freeze to move towards a 50/50 mix.

    The restrictor in the hose should have no affect on the overall cooling of the system. I would start with the flush and refill, then purging of all the air from the system and see what happens before making any other changes or repairs. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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