You only need head gaskets, and intake gaskets, maybe valve cover. The timing cover doesn't need to come apart. Re use the head bolts, they are not torque to yield. Of course, new oil.
You only need head gaskets, and intake gaskets, maybe valve cover. The timing cover doesn't need to come apart. Re use the head bolts, they are not torque to yield. Of course, new oil.
Which head gaskets would you use? I see LMR has Ford Performance ones or some Felpro permatorque head gaskets. Which ones are better? A few bucks here and there doesn't matter, I just don't want have to tear it apart again.
Is it easier to do the timing cover gaskets at this point when pulling the heads? What else should be done while in there? I need new exhaust manifold gaskets right?
1985 Mustang GT Convertible
Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.
I have had good luck with Felpro. I have never had a problem with their permatorgue gaskets. You also might want to think about changing the valve stem seals while you have the heads off.
And don't forget to look at Rockauto. They seem to have good deals on name brand gaskets.
good luck to you
67 Mustang Coupe
96 Tangerine GT
86 Saleen #179
If you want to change the timing cover gaskets, then you may as well put in a new timing chain set. It will most definitely be stretched out. The gasket set will come with a new front seal as well. For a stock rebuild any good aftermarket gaskets will be fine. If you do valve seals, the stock springs will be weak too, with that many miles on them. Just stock style replacements will do.
Keep it simple, man, I think the car has tortured you enough for a while. Everyone has good advice on things you can do while you have it apart, and it is good advice, but if the car isn't leaking or burning oil, runs well other than the overheating, then just replace the head gasket and whatever else you need to complete the job. Get it all done over the weekend and have your car back!
-- James
Favorite thing I’ve said that’s been requoted: “"40 year old beercan on wheels with too much motor"
My four eyed foxes:
"Trigger" - 86 Mustang GT - Black with red interior. 5.0 T5 built as Z. Original motor ~1/2 million miles. 18 yr daily, 10 a toy
"Silver" - 85 Mustang Saleen 1985-006? (Lol) Rare 1E silver GT / charcoal interior. The car is a little bit of a mystery. Current project bought as a roller, tons of Saleen / Racecraft pedigree
Also in the stable - my son’s car. 1986 Mustang GT Convertible. Black/Black/Black conversion. 93 leather. VM1 ECU. T5Z
past foxes -
1989 Mustang LX Sport 5.0 AOD white/tan black top. Once I ran this one down I caught a wife.
Wife also had a 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe in the 90's.
I'm a four eyed pride supporter, are you? Become one today!
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/payments.php
timing chains last a very long time. Mine has 1/2 million miles and I can guarantee it’s turned more revolutions than most.
As timing chains stretch they allow the cam to retard and the engine to begin to favor high RPM over low end torque.
Toss on a great intake and some 1.7:1 rockers and welcome to your new screamer
-- James
Favorite thing I’ve said that’s been requoted: “"40 year old beercan on wheels with too much motor"
My four eyed foxes:
"Trigger" - 86 Mustang GT - Black with red interior. 5.0 T5 built as Z. Original motor ~1/2 million miles. 18 yr daily, 10 a toy
"Silver" - 85 Mustang Saleen 1985-006? (Lol) Rare 1E silver GT / charcoal interior. The car is a little bit of a mystery. Current project bought as a roller, tons of Saleen / Racecraft pedigree
Also in the stable - my son’s car. 1986 Mustang GT Convertible. Black/Black/Black conversion. 93 leather. VM1 ECU. T5Z
past foxes -
1989 Mustang LX Sport 5.0 AOD white/tan black top. Once I ran this one down I caught a wife.
Wife also had a 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe in the 90's.
I'm a four eyed pride supporter, are you? Become one today!
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/payments.php
Ok, I will just do the heads. No reason to take the front of the engine off.
I'll do new intake gaskets, head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. I'll lap the valves myself. I was just gonna keep all the hardware, including head bolts, but I'll replace the valve stem seals. If that's a bad idea and I have to replace the valve springs or other stuff, I will. But if the goal is just take apart, replace the gaskets, and reassemble, starting to replace parts here and there is a slippery slope. Is there a gasket for the smog pipe in the back?
I think the car consumes some oil, but not excessively. I can't tell exactly how much because my rear main is leaking quite a bit, so my oil loss may be mostly from that. Anyone in the Tampa area who would do a rear main seal or help me with it? I'll pay you (money and beer) I'd rather have a forum member do it/help me than some random shop who won't care one way or another. That, of course, doesn't have to be done immediately.
1985 Mustang GT Convertible
Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.
You're right about the slippery slope... either do what's needed to put back into reliable service, or choose to take everything all apart and rebuild the whole thing. I've never seen any gaskets for the AIR cross over pipe across the rear of the cylinder heads... it's just it's flanges and the bolts... clean up the mating surfaces, reinstall. If there's no huffing of blue smoke upon cold start up (a sign of valve stem seals needing replacement), or no broken springs or questionable or badly worn out valve train stuff, there's no reason to disassemble the heads and replace valve stem seals or other parts. Much more important than replacing parts that are not displaying any issues, IMHO (and since overheating has specifically been an issue), is to check the cleaned up cylinder heads' deck surfaces for warp-age with a straight edge and feeler gauges. The block decks are less likely to have taken a hit from overheating, but I'd check them too, just for peace of mind. The cylinder head deck surface "service limits" are 0.003" in any 6" span, and/or 0.006" overall end-to-end or cross-ways.
Mike
1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
1983 Mercury Cougar LS
1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
1980 Capri RS Turbo
Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/
Mike
1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
1983 Mercury Cougar LS
1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
1980 Capri RS Turbo
Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/
Pull some plugs water should come out of spak plug hole if gasket is compromised
Grab a cheap point and shoot temp gun see if all headers are near same temp within reason
Agreed - a timing set that’s too sloppy is dangerous. Usually they give you hints if they’ve done more than just relax a bit.
We used to look for high miles motors for the bomber class race cars we ran on the dirt track. You weren’t allowed to degree in or change the stock cam so if there was no evidence of lobes going, bearings going, etc, and the compression was good it was usually a winner.
For the first few seasons we didn’t even rering the motors until we were in the points race at the end of the season.
These pieces of crap would usually see 6500 for 10 minutes at a shot 4 times per weekend.
we eventually started doing stuff like only changing the chain or only changing one gear, etc, to get the cam timing where we wanted it.
At the time it was crazy like a fox. We did very well in our class and even had our stuff tore down and inspected a few times along the way.
Cam retard was very helpful and compleyely overlooked on inspections. . nobody thought to look at the gauges while the engine ran either — had they checked the oil pressure it was in the 90’s at idle. Worn or loose bearings and Screw in galley plugs are a must but they sure ran good. We’d shim the Valv slings too.
Last edited by erratic50; 03-04-2019 at 01:08 AM.
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