Close



Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1

    Default Need recommendations for PCV setup/routing

    Hey Guys, I've built a new 302 for my 85 LTD LX that I'm running a carburetor with and I'm using the 94-95 stock steel valve covers. My question is how would I run the PCV system with these valve covers? I'm using an Edelbrock Performer RPM Air Gap manifold, there is only 1 vacuum nipple on the oil fill tube, the other V/C has no holes in it. Can I just run a PCV valve between the nipple on the V/C oil fill to the carb? Or does it need a breather? I don't plan on using the dual snorkel again, if it clears the hood I'm definitely in, but with the Air Gap I don't think it will. So I'm not sure what kind of air cleaner I'm going to use. Any advice would be great!

    Thanks
    Mike

  2. #2

    Default

    For a non-imploding (lol) and effective PositiveCrankcaseVentilation system, you need a manifold vacuumed PCV valve in one valve cover, and a source of filtered inlet air in the other valve cover. Run some tubing from that oil fill tube nipple and into your air filter, with an elbow or something fitted into the air cleaner's base... and I would drill out whatever size hole (3/4"? 1"?) is needed in the other valve cover in order to install a rubber PCV valve grommet, and run some 3/8" PCV hose from the valve to your carburetor's large PCV vacuum nipple...
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 12-15-2017 at 06:46 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    lansing, mi
    Posts
    4,667

    Default

    ^While that will most certainly work, it may ingest a lot of oil out of the engine without a baffle in place. I had this problem when a baffle came out of my stock "Powered by Ford" valve covers many moons ago. Granted, that motor did have a high volume oil pump in it, which is stupid to do unless you have a turbo or supercharger that needs oil fed under pressure... So it had a lot of oil up in the heads and is probably another contributing factor to why that engine never performed as well as I felt it should have. A different set of valve covers with baffles might be the best option.

    Something I like to do to keep the pcv muck from making a mess inside of my engine and exhaust is run an inline filter/water separator for compressed air between the pcv and manifold vacuum source with the filter element removed. After a few drives I unscrew the bowl and pour it out into one of my used motor oil jugs. It seems to work well, when I finally blew that 302 up the heads and intake were the cleanest I'd ever seen them! And I would remove them annually to try some bs someone sold me on that didn't really help my lack of power!

    Cale

  4. #4

    Default

    ^ True. Maybe an inexpensive pair of 60s/70s/80s boneyard valve covers (and maybe that engine's PCV tubes/plumbing too) cleaned up and painted wouldn't be a bad idea...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    During rebuilds guys talk about using a grinder to smooth out the castings or even applying an oil management epoxy paint in hopes of helping get oil back to the pan faster.

    Usually high volume oil pumps cause all sorts of problems -- like even a dry pan -- if things aren't properly managed when an oiling system upgrade is done. Biggest receipt for "boom" I've seen is high volume pump in a stock pan with no extra supplemental sump supply of any sort. Especially bad if the pickup is too high or low.

    Agreed on using early covers instead of later ones. Something I better plan to address on my 85 Saleen clone when I do final prep on the roller motor I have for it.

  6. #6

    Default

    Thanks for all the advice guys! I had a feeling that I would at least have to drill a hole in the other V/C and add the breather, along with a baffle. I just really liked the plain look of the 94-95 V/C and they clear the Crane Energizers that I'm running. The idea for the water separator is also an awesome idea. I guess I'm going to start looking around for a set of taller aftermarket covers with a grommet on each side....

    Mike

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    lansing, mi
    Posts
    4,667

    Default

    These are what I use for valve covers:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Block...daAKzo&vxp=mtr

    I like them because they resemble the factory "Powered by Ford" covers and I needed them tall with the stud mount roller rockers.

    In regards to the separator, Steeda does the same thing for a lot more money than I spent:

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...3710/overview/

    Cale

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member 87gtVIC's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Whitestone, NY
    Posts
    1,065

    Default

    the plastic fittings that come with the steeda catch can are JUNK. If one goes that route just pick up brass ones from lowes, or similar.

  9. #9

    Default

    Does anyone know if the older finned aluminum M/T or Holley valve covers are tall enough to clear the 1.7 Crane Energizers? I like that vintage look for my carburetor and they seem to be pretty available in used condition.

    Name:  MT.jpg
Views: 61
Size:  87.0 KB

  10. #10
    FEP Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Anchorage Alaska
    Posts
    223

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cb84capri View Post
    These are what I use for valve covers:

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Small-Block...daAKzo&vxp=mtr

    I like them because they resemble the factory "Powered by Ford" covers and I needed them tall with the stud mount roller rockers.

    In regards to the separator, Steeda does the same thing for a lot more money than I spent:

    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...3710/overview/

    Cale
    The finish on those valve covers looks odd in the pics. Are they mottled looking or more consistent than they appear? It almost looks like some parts are polished and other parts are brushed. How do they look in person?

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •