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  1. #1
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Default H4 Headlight Conversion - Trim Rings Too Loose

    I am in the middle of swapping out my headlights to H4 housings, which require modification of the headlight bucket. I was able to do that quickly, and got them to seat nicely in the bucket, but now I notice that the trim rings don't quick clamp the housing, they are a bit loose, so the headlight just rattles when the trim rings are tight.

    Maybe the H4 housings are a bit thinner, so the ring doesn't press against the lense, not sure.

    I searched and can't find anyone with a similar situation, so I wondered if anyone else had run into this issue?

    I could wrap some thin foam around the inside of the trim ring, but before I did that, I thought I would check and see what others had done.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  2. #2

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    Are your headlight bucket bearing pads (the little white clips) all in good shape?
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #3
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Default

    Hmm. not sure what those are. Do you have a pic of what they look like.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Hmm. not sure what those are. Do you have a pic of what they look like.
    The white pieces in the pic wraithracing posted...

    Foxaholic
    FML. Lets try this one more time.

  6. #6

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    The white tabs in the above pictures are there to center the bucket while allowing a smooth surface for the bucket to slide on during adjustment. They get old and brittle and do break often when removing the buckets. So yes, replace them for sure if any are broken, BUT I do not believe that is what you are referring to.

    I had the exact same problem you are describing with my first H4 Retrofit housings... Your new H4 housings are loose between the bucket and trim ring though the bucket itself is secure to the header panel...(Like the trim ring is failing to clamp the H4 housing against the bucket) I used thin 3M foam in the corners to fill the gap between the trim ring and front of the H4 housing. I recommend putting it between the trim ring and the new housing to avoid messing too much with headlight alignment. Better to center the housing to the bucket than to the trim ring in my opinion.
    FML. Lets try this one more time.

  7. #7

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    As an afterthought,... you could alter the mounting tabs on the trim rings to pull the trim ring closer to the housing.
    FML. Lets try this one more time.

  8. #8
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by TheCrippler View Post
    The white tabs in the above pictures are there to center the bucket while allowing a smooth surface for the bucket to slide on during adjustment. They get old and brittle and do break often when removing the buckets. So yes, replace them for sure if any are broken, BUT I do not believe that is what you are referring to.

    I had the exact same problem you are describing with my first H4 Retrofit housings... Your new H4 housings are loose between the bucket and trim ring though the bucket itself is secure to the header panel...(Like the trim ring is failing to clamp the H4 housing against the bucket) I used thin 3M foam in the corners to fill the gap between the trim ring and front of the H4 housing. I recommend putting it between the trim ring and the new housing to avoid messing too much with headlight alignment. Better to center the housing to the bucket than to the trim ring in my opinion.
    EXACTLY!

    I actually figured out a way to get the trim rings to clamp to the housings better. I cut short sections, equal length, of 1/4" fuel line, and slid them over the nubs at each corner of the headlight housings, which spaced the housing a bit higher in the bucket, and squished nicely when the trim rings were screwed tight.

    Sorry for not communicating clearly, as I think that most were thinking my issue was with loose buckets.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  9. #9

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    Not a problem... I totally got what you were saying as I have done the H4 conversion on two different cars now and had the same issue (Only on one though)... You have pics of the finished product?
    FML. Lets try this one more time.

  10. #10

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    I highly recommend these...

    Foxaholic
    FML. Lets try this one more time.

  11. #11
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Default

    Which brand are yours? Mine were on an 84 Capri RS, looked a lot like yours, but I have no idea what brand they are though.

    Running a dual relay harness with ceramic plugs, and 55w/100w Sylvania bulbs. You?

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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  12. #12
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Default

    I'll probably paint my trim rings black, as well as the area surrounding the headlights, when I get the car painted.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    I'll probably paint my trim rings black, as well as the area surrounding the headlights, when I get the car painted.
    My first set were Pilot brand glass H4 housings with sylvania siver stars outer and nokya yellow outers on a quad relay setup 2 or 4 beam low and 4 beam hi... The new ones are Truck-Lite brand Leds in sealed Polycarbonate housings... No relays necessary.

    Foxaholic
    FML. Lets try this one more time.

  14. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    I'll probably paint my trim rings black, as well as the area surrounding the headlights, when I get the car painted.
    Trim rings matte SEM trim black look super nice

    Foxaholic
    FML. Lets try this one more time.

  15. #15

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    Crip-

    How do you like the Truck Lite's. I am considering them but also like the J W Speaker 4 x 6. The J W's are a bit pricy.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by 86FOX4EYE View Post
    Crip-

    How do you like the Truck Lite's. I am considering them but also like the J W Speaker 4 x 6. The J W's are a bit pricy.
    I love the asthetics and the light color and pattern are excellent... The only complaint I have is that the low beams do not have a dual intensity (Additional brightness when turning on the high beams) which is strange since it does have a 3 wire connector.

    Foxaholic
    FML. Lets try this one more time.

  17. #17

    Default

    10-4. I have wondered about that. Good hot halogens are hard to beat for brightness and range. But, the hot bulbs (100w +) really tax the electrical system and generate a serious amount of heat. Not to mention the dedicated wiring harness and relay circuit that has to be installed if high wattage bulbs are used. That is what I have done in the past. I am hoping some well engineered LED lights will let me avoid all of that on the next try and then replace the Marchal driving lights with some modern xenon off road lights for when needed.

    Matthew.

  18. #18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 86FOX4EYE View Post
    10-4. I have wondered about that. Good hot halogens are hard to beat for brightness and range. But, the hot bulbs (100w +) really tax the electrical system and generate a serious amount of heat. Not to mention the dedicated wiring harness and relay circuit that has to be installed if high wattage bulbs are used. That is what I have done in the past. I am hoping some well engineered LED lights will let me avoid all of that on the next try and then replace the Marchal driving lights with some modern xenon off road lights for when needed.

    Matthew.
    Yeah mine doesn't draw enough current to shut off the burnt out headlight indicator lol unless I have brights on.

    Foxaholic
    FML. Lets try this one more time.

  19. #19

    Default

    Is there a harness available that converts to relays or is it a do-it-yourself proposition? I have an 86 GT that needs some brighter headlights, some new fogs would help too. What is a direct replacement for the Marchals? Thanks guys!

    Mike
    1982 GT 351W, retro hyd roller, ported Pro Comp heads, Tremec, M2300K brake kit, Recaros...needs paint!
    1984 LX 5.0 Vert *SOLD*
    1993 Cobra #3971 mostly stock *SOLD*
    1966 FFR Cobra replica 383W, Vic Jr heads, Vortech YS, TFS Box intake, 652rwhp, crazy fast!
    1987 GT in MM&FF May of 97 "Not Fade Away" white and purple. Sold 1999

  20. #20
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by FoxFords&FFR's View Post
    Is there a harness available that converts to relays or is it a do-it-yourself proposition? I have an 86 GT that needs some brighter headlights, some new fogs would help too. What is a direct replacement for the Marchals? Thanks guys!

    Mike
    Here is an option from Ron Francis. I have used their wiring harnesses on multiple vehicles and highly recommend their quality products. https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=HR-58

    Here is another cheaper option. I can't personally recommend as I have not used this one. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ceramic-4-H...FWJXSc&vxp=mtr

    Here is a how to DYI if you want to make your own. It's not Mustang/Fox specific, but the basics are still the same.

    http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...ing-relay-kit/
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

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