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  1. #1

    Default Exhaust manifold (carbed turbo)

    Hi everybody,

    my exhaust manifold has been welded twice already and now I suspect it to be cracked again, therefore I wanted to install a new (used) one.
    I found two manifolds on ebay that look exactly like the one that I have. Mine has the partnumber D8EEBB stamped into the manifold.
    One that I found has the part number D8EE-BB stamped into. But I assume that little difference (-) is just a different way of writing the same part number.... However I found also another one that is cheaper and appears to be in better condition but that manifold has the part number D42E-AH. They look all the same but I am not sure whether they have some important differences...
    Does anybody know the differences and can help me decide which one I should buy?

    Thanks a lot!

  2. #2

    Default

    D42 = originally engineered for 1974 Pinto (2 = Pinto 1972-75)
    D8E = originally engineered for 1978 Pinto (E = Pinto 1976-80)
    * Source: http://www.fordification.com/tech/pa...s_overview.htm

    The D8EE-BB part could have superseded the D42E-AH part?
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  3. #3

    Default

    Every carbed turbo motor I have ever owned had a cracked exhaust manifold in the same place. I'm in the middle of restoring the engine on my 79 indy with 36k miles on it and that one is cracked too. I'm probably just going to weld it for the time being. I don't know if it was the fuel mixture or something to do with the turbo or what but every one I've ever owned was cracked.

    I'm planning on getting an aftermarket 2.3 header and modifying the exhaust to work with it.
    '79 Indy pace car
    '81 Cobra
    '81 Cobra T-top
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  4. #4
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    Revised 1978, one size fits all standard. The downstream air drillings changed 1978 model year

    Where does it crack?

    This is Carb turbo 1979 Fox Mustang 2.3 liter



    The later D8EEBB casting






    D4


  5. #5

    Default

    That one is cracked too in the first picture. You can see it from that plug right above the collector to the #2 exhaust tube. That is where they all crack.
    '79 Indy pace car
    '81 Cobra
    '81 Cobra T-top
    '82 Mustang GT T-top
    '87 Corvette
    '10 Mustang GT Convertible
    '17 F250
    '17 Landrover Discovery Sport

  6. #6

    Default

    I think that plug has something to do with it because it starts there and always goes halfway up the #2 exhaust tube. Maybe if you get one of the earlier manifolds without that plug....

    The crack is always absolutely identical on every one I have owned and it is in that picture too.
    '79 Indy pace car
    '81 Cobra
    '81 Cobra T-top
    '82 Mustang GT T-top
    '87 Corvette
    '10 Mustang GT Convertible
    '17 F250
    '17 Landrover Discovery Sport

  7. #7

    Default

    Thanks everybody for clearing things up. And yes mine cracked at the exact same spot as well.
    Ok because I can go apparently with either one of these two manifolds and they should fit without a problem I will go with the earlier one D42E-AH because it appears to be in better condition.
    I hope that it will last some miles before cracking...

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    Factory tubing and aftermarket headers exist for these


    1985 2.3
    Quote Originally Posted by webestang View Post
    So the battery is where the washer fluid bottle should be.

    Here are some shots of mine as of today. I'm still in the process of eliminating my heat as I only drive this one in good weather.


    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header.

    1979 2.3

    Quote Originally Posted by SuperDuty455 View Post
    Header again :


    ......


    All these OHC engines, Pinto, Lima, they run much smoother and seam to be carefree with the factory header.

    My Taunus based Pinto 2000 engines loved the factory Cortina 2V 1600 tubing header.

  9. #9

    Default

    I would love to switch to headers but than I will have to get the crossover pipe redone because the headers are longer than the manifold... Or is there a header that bolts right up to the factory crossover pipe?

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  10. #10

    Default

    No headers will bolt up to the crossover pipe. It would have to be modified although it doesn't look like it would be too much work to do. It almost looks like you just have to cut the pipe back a bit and re-weld the flange.

    My engine is out of the car right now and I'm almost to the point where I can mock up the exhaust.
    '79 Indy pace car
    '81 Cobra
    '81 Cobra T-top
    '82 Mustang GT T-top
    '87 Corvette
    '10 Mustang GT Convertible
    '17 F250
    '17 Landrover Discovery Sport

  11. #11

    Default

    Oh OK. Yeah that's what I thought. I will now go with a manifold again because I do not have the equipment to change the crossover pipe myself and hope that it lasts but if it cracks again I will get someone to redo it for me...
    Thanks again for all the great help...

  12. #12
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    Default

    While headers sound like a great choice, most seem to have the flange down pretty low to connect to the exhaust. The cast iron manifolds seem to have the connection up much higher. I recall seeing a number of new cast iron manifolds on eBay and such a while back for the 90s Ranger. They may be worth considering as a crack free option. No idea on performance.
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  13. #13
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Alternative new Dorman cast iron manifold may work.
    But the pipe connection is further back like the ss tube header:
    https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-28692-674-230.aspx

    Cast and header style manifolds to pipe connection to the down pipe are different.
    One design is much more forward around #2 plug. Others are back by #4.

    Vaguely recall taking off heat shields off the crossover area near the oil pan in the 80's.
    Was getting a harmonic metallic 'buzz' noise at certain rpm. Was loose cat shield.
    Need to reinstall shields, if i can find them, or fab new to deflect heat away from oil pan.
    Or wrap the crossover with header tape.

    The Ranger 4 into 1 tube header will bolt onto the head. Did that mod back in 1997.
    My iron one was cracked too. Main reasons for replacing it were looks and weight.
    The header is quite a bit lighter. Looks added 10 hp.

    Header has bung for Ranger's EGR tube.. If not using, a 2.3 drain plug fits.
    May be a good spot for narrow/wide band A/F sensor?

    Although SS, the header does not stay silver without repaints or some type of coating.
    Although used ones are very reasonable priced, have to add cost of mods to total.

    Custom work is needed on crossover. Figure 50.00+, depending on material choice and labor rate.
    A good muffler shop can custom bend one and do the manifold flange.
    The stock crossover can be cut at the center straight section.
    Cut off the manifold half. Leave the turbo half intact
    Be cautious if cutting the stock one and welding a new section.
    Any weld slag can be sucked up into the turbine and ruin it pronto.
    Use SS wide band exh clamp or fab a whole new pipe and stow the stock pipe.

    The Dorman cast manifold looks to have provision for EGR.
    Ranger tube headers provide EGR from a bung.
    Header flange does not work with, nor cover, 79 EGR holes in each cyl exh port.
    Flange plate bottom is shorter, meaning four tiny exhaust leaks without mods.
    This pic shows position of four EGR port holes, directly below the larger tube holes, on the gasket:
    https://www.summitracing.com/parts/m...iABEgJKlvD_BwE

    EGR holes in the exhaust ports can be filled in with high heat putty. Same putty that fixes cracked manifolds.
    SS or similar thin shims can be used over the holes under the manifold gasket to keep the filler from blowing out.
    A second wider 2.3 header flange plate may work too, between head and header, to block off the EGR holes.
    All use the stock manifold gasket. One version has no EGR holes punched in it.
    Last edited by gr79; 12-07-2017 at 03:46 PM.

  14. #14

    Default

    Funny you should mention that. I had an '80 and they started putting converters on the crossover pipe and the converter guts came apart and trashed the turbo. These engines really weren't the best design.
    '79 Indy pace car
    '81 Cobra
    '81 Cobra T-top
    '82 Mustang GT T-top
    '87 Corvette
    '10 Mustang GT Convertible
    '17 F250
    '17 Landrover Discovery Sport

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gregpro50 View Post
    Funny you should mention that. I had an '80 and they started putting converters on the crossover pipe and the converter guts came apart and trashed the turbo. These engines really weren't the best design.
    From m81mclaren's M81 McLaren

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...5-years!/page7




    Oh dearo dearie dearie dearie me. That's just an awful design if the primary cataylst bricks out. Starting 50th stat California 79 Mustang, and then All 1980 and 1981 got the primary catalyst, including the Candian Cobra Turbos.

    I wonder if'n he knows to check status of the added 3 way cat?

    Thanks gregpro50


    PS, doesn't No 2 branch at the sun date code look cracked like the first 79 Mustang Carb turbo picture?


  16. #16

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    Picture of the crack on mine. I think I'm going to go the header route.
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    '79 Indy pace car
    '81 Cobra
    '81 Cobra T-top
    '82 Mustang GT T-top
    '87 Corvette
    '10 Mustang GT Convertible
    '17 F250
    '17 Landrover Discovery Sport

  17. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post


    PS, doesn't No 2 branch at the sun date code look cracked like the first 79 Mustang Carb turbo picture?
    I do believe it does when I zoom in on it. I've never seen one that wasn't cracked.
    '79 Indy pace car
    '81 Cobra
    '81 Cobra T-top
    '82 Mustang GT T-top
    '87 Corvette
    '10 Mustang GT Convertible
    '17 F250
    '17 Landrover Discovery Sport

  18. #18
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregpro50 View Post
    I do believe it does when I zoom in on it. I've never seen one that wasn't cracked.
    Me too. I see a top to bottom split in the date casting sun in picture two. They split assunder desipte the rusticated buttresses. The drilled and tapped downstream air hole lookes like the culprit, adding the block off fitting was a bad step for the expansion between iron and steel differs, but mostly, the hole is a BSP taper so it adds stress to the manifold.

    I was designing my turbo instillations around the old 3.3 Foot Ball converter, with its replacement converter reputed to be good, but if it ever dislodges the substate, it'll luanch it and take out the turbo.

    This is why Ford had so many problems on feedback version of the 2.3 turbo carb...everything has added difficulties.

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