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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Default Heater core restrictor - location placement

    Almost done changing my intake gaskets and decided to replace the heater hose from the intake and check to make sure the restrictor was in there. To my surprise, no restrictor! So I bought one from Ford. The plastic one with the rubber doughnut for restriction. Part number XR3Z18599AA.

    Scoured the net to find out install location and got various answers. I know the restrictor has to go in the inlet hose (one from the intake). But which end? Put it right next to the core or right at the intake? Putting it at the core would make the rubber hose absorb all that pressure which could lead to it popping?
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  2. #2
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    qikgts's Avatar
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    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ore-Restrictor

    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    The restrictor should go in the intake manifold end of the hose, but only because that location will
    reduce noise transmission into the passenger compartment. Functionally, it makes no difference.
    '85 GT

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    Next to the heater core in the S shaped hose..
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  4. #4

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    I've pulled them out of the hose on the firewall side on every car I've seen them in.

    If it didn't have one, I just use a broken 1/4 drive socket.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  5. #5

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    Pressure contained within the intake manifold is better than within the heater hose...

    Here's mine, homemade, a simple plumbing copper end cap with a 1/4" hole drilled in it, tapped into the intake elbow:

    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  6. #6
    FEP Senior Member Dave9052's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Pressure contained within the intake manifold is better than within the heater hose...

    Here's mine, homemade, a simple plumbing copper end cap with a 1/4" hole drilled in it, tapped into the intake elbow:

    Followed Walking-Tall's advice he gave me in past thread and it fits perfect, tapped right in. Cheap and simple

  7. #7
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    I belive the Ford upgrade part gets inserted into the heater core inlet. Not sure if all their versions are the same size OD.

    Others: I noticed on my 02 F150; that the restrictor was inserted into the heater hose just a few inches after leaving the engine. They used a crimp style clamp down stream to keep it from moving. Since it was plastic, I salvaged it to reuse on the Mustang.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Thank all for the input. I have the plastic one already, so I'll stick it in the intake end of the hose with a hose clamp to keep it from moving. The plumbing end cap is a great idea that I'd do if I didn't already buy the plastic piece.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  9. #9
    FEP Member Mgino757's Avatar
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    Mine sits in the heater core inlet, which is attached to the intake manifold. I'd rather rupture a hose than a heater core any day.
    1985 Mustang GT conv. modified 4180C, Weiand Street Warrior intake, equal length headers, true dual exhaust, 3.55:1 8.8'' rear end, 2003 V6 T5, Ford Racing 10.5" clutch.

    1998 Mustang GT auto. PI swapped. Daily beater

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave9052 View Post
    Followed Walking-Tall's advice he gave me in past thread and it fits perfect, tapped right in. Cheap and simple
    I was interested in doing this with the copper end cap. Does the end cap have threads or how does it attach to the elbow and what size of fitting is it, 1/2?

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member Dave9052's Avatar
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    Yes 1/2" copper end cap. No threads it taps in, it is the perfect size. I tapped it in further than pic. so it was flush. I think it was 29 cents. Can't beat that

  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave9052 View Post
    Yes 1/2" copper end cap. No threads it taps in, it is the perfect size. I tapped it in further than pic. so it was flush. I think it was 29 cents. Can't beat that
    Great info, will take care of this soon, much appreciated!

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Installed the restrictor at the intake side of the heater core inlet hose. Installed the new hose and finished up the intake gaskets. Aaaand now my heater core is leaking. I guess getting the old stuck-on hose off loosened the weld enough on the pipe to have it start leaking. There are times when I really hate this car.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Hang in there buddy. You've gotten the 4180C beaten, so its just the heater core. Find some support from the guys who have done it here, sart a post, and get it replaced.

    Don't have a melt down moment, because its what happens when your car is 32 years old, but easy to fix.

    Once you've done the heater core, then focus on the Hot Idle Compensator, there is a tunning memo on it for all carb Fords with A/C and power steering dating back to 1962.

    The best thing about FEP is the depth of knowledge you can draw on to fix things without a boat load of money. Information is Power.

  15. #15
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Thanks for the moral support. The worst part is I had the dash out about 6 months ago to fix the shell that was cracking. Thought about just replacing the core at that time, but it wasn't leaking and had lasted for so long, I didn't want to make things worse. Of course, dumb dumb dumb dumb move.

    What is this tuning memo for the hot idle compensator? Can you PM it to me?
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  16. #16

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    Sorry about your core. FYI, specific instruction and torque spec for 3.8 WP bolts... I would like to add that when reinstalling or replacing bolts where their length will be residing within through holes, such as these do, a greasing along their non-threaded length never hurts...


    (image from Haynes manual)
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 12-14-2017 at 02:20 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  17. #17
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 85stanggt View Post
    Thanks for the moral support. The worst part is I had the dash out about 6 months ago to fix the shell that was cracking. Thought about just replacing the core at that time, but it wasn't leaking and had lasted for so long, I didn't want to make things worse. Of course, dumb dumb dumb dumb move.

    What is this tuning memo for the hot idle compensator? Can you PM it to me?

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...pensator-Valve

    The device was mae by Rochestor, Carter, and for Ford; each had the same rough method of setting. It was a great tool for the cranky behaviour of a V8 engine with too much under hood heat causing fuel vaporisation related carburation problems.

  18. #18

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    Late model restoration sells the restrictors pretty cheap..
    86 coupe
    1993 GT
    My 10 Sec street cars

  19. #19
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...pensator-Valve

    The device was mae by Rochestor, Carter, and for Ford; each had the same rough method of setting. It was a great tool for the cranky behaviour of a V8 engine with too much under hood heat causing fuel vaporisation related carburation problems.
    Thanks just posted to it. Want to know at what temperature it is supposed to open. I remember at one point it was staying open on my car and I tried to adjust it. Don't know if I screwed it up.

    Quote Originally Posted by srad2drag View Post
    Late model restoration sells the restrictors pretty cheap..
    Got the restrictor from Ford. It's in there but now the core is leaking anyway.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

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