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  1. #1

    Default Bottom Edge Door Rust

    So I'm knocking out stripping the doors prior to painting the mustang. Came across the rust along the bottom edge of the door which is common and I'm trying to figure out my plan of attack.

    I'm thinking I'll spray with ospho a few times, neutralize with water, rust encapsulator of some type, all metal and smooth it down, prime, and then paint.

    Is this a feasible plan? I plan on using Rust Bullet for the rust encapsulator but I am open to suggestions.

    I'm a relative newbie concerning bodywork (and most stuff mechanical), but I'm willing to learn! Thanks for any advice/observations.
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  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    I'm not a body mechanic, and will defer to someone with more experience than me if I'm wrong here, but generally if you have the "crumbly" kind if rust where it's flaking off, then you really need to remove it before covering it with anything else. If you still have a solid edge seam there after removing the rust then I expect you should be fine. Otherwise, sealing a rusted area with little structural integrity won't last long and you'll waste an expensive paint job. in general, painting or filling over rust isn't considered a proper repair and probably won't hold up well. Keep in mind as well that since you already have the doors off and stripped of parts, you can buy used doors pretty cheaply so if they need much work that might be a better choice than putting a lot of time and money into fixing one.

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    That is rust that should cut out and replacement metal put in.
    They make a special tool for putting door skins on. If the rest of the door is solid you can remove the old metal and put a new strip of steel in at the bottom of the door n

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    That is rust that should cut out and replacement metal put in.
    They make a special tool for putting door skins on. If the rest of the door is solid you can remove the old metal and put a new strip of steel in at the bottom of the door n
    The rest of the door is real solid. Guess i'll start looking for this special tool.

  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    IMHO it generally easier to find a good used door than to skin a Mustang/Capri door. I personally would only do it if there were no other options as its a PITA and in most cases you can pick up a good door for less $$ than the door skin tool alone costs. Besides it takes more than just the a single door skin tool to skin a door properly. I would not recommend it for a rookie.

    It appears you have either a T-top or Convertible vehicle. Finding the same door is the best option, but you can modify a standard hard top door to work for your vehicle and that will generally be easier, cheaper, and faster than trying to install a new door skin. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  6. #6

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    Whatever water drain holes are there, make them bigger. Water retention in the bottoms of the doors is what rots them...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  7. #7

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    Some preliminary shopping around in my area has me thinking that 85 doors are like finding Unicorn's Teeth and the doors that will fit from other years must be made of freaking gold. I'll keep an eye out for some "cheap" doors and just move onto other body parts that need some stripping. Thanks for the advice.

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    My doors were way worse. No way did water get trapped.
    The seams went first, then the lower part came loose. Temp used hd duct tape.
    Large air leaks, road dust from door panel handle area. Summer ok. Winter no.
    Used new galvanized duct metal patchs, strips, clamps, seam sealer, paint.
    Daily driver. Door skin is tight again, rust in check, holding up well.
    Hey old skin is not always pretty.
    Meanwhile, preserve what is there. Prep well so protective chemical coats work as designed.
    Go easy at the rusty parts of the seam not to cause more damage if using power tools..
    I covered areas like that with wire wheel on grinder, etch spray, then worked seam sealer smooth with popsicle sticks.

    That door is now like a old wooden deck. Gotta stain it almost every year.

  9. #9
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiretread View Post
    Some preliminary shopping around in my area has me thinking that 85 doors are like finding Unicorn's Teeth and the doors that will fit from other years must be made of freaking gold. I'll keep an eye out for some "cheap" doors and just move onto other body parts that need some stripping. Thanks for the advice.
    Doors from late 80-86 are the best match for your vehicle if it's an 85. The 79- early 80 doors can be made to work, but the inside door handle is at the bottom of the door rather than the top on those models, so they require modifications to work.

    You will have to swap over the glass, hardware, bracing, internals, etc. from your door to the donor door to make sure everything works and matches up.

    You can make the 87-93 doors work, but as you stated they will require some modifications to work also, but if that is all that is available for the right cost in your area, I would definitely consider one.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  10. #10
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Post a close up picture of the worst rust area of the door. Show pictures of both the front and back side at the seam please.

    I would still consider replacing the door the best option if you are keeping the car long term and if you are prepping to paint the car, but depending on how bad the rust is and how difficult a replacement door might be to find you might consider some repair work to the current door. I just am not sure how BAD the rust really is from your current pictures.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    My doors were much the same condition as yours. I chose to fix them since they are the very hard to find 79 low handle doors, and this is rust central so rust free doors are rare. I did not need to replace the entire skin, just the lower edge and part of the lower inner shell. No special tools required aside from a MIG welder and time. I made the repair pieces with my metal break to fold the lip as tight as I could, then just used a hammer and dolly to close it tight once it was tacked in place.








  12. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Post a close up picture of the worst rust area of the door. Show pictures of both the front and back side at the seam please.

    I would still consider replacing the door the best option if you are keeping the car long term and if you are prepping to paint the car, but depending on how bad the rust is and how difficult a replacement door might be to find you might consider some repair work to the current door. I just am not sure how BAD the rust really is from your current pictures.
    I'll get some pics up when I get back from Florida. The door is good metal all around except for that very bottom inside part.

  13. #13

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    The bottom of my drivers door was rusted so bad the inner frame wasnt even connected to the door except for in a few small spots. The door would rattle when I closed it. I figured it was too far gone to fix and picked up a pair of rust free 89 doors. I cut the door handle area out of my 79 door and the same area in the newer door and welded the old piece in its spot. Turned out really good. Of course I had to swap the rods and things out also.

  14. #14

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    So I found a pair of doors from an 85 convertible in a salvage yard while using my google-fu. Of course they wanted $450 per door. Sheesh. It seems I am going to repair these doors (to the best of my ability) and hope to find one of these 50 bucks a door deal that many have spoken of sometime in the near future.

  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiretread View Post
    So I found a pair of doors from an 85 convertible in a salvage yard while using my google-fu. Of course they wanted $450 per door. Sheesh. It seems I am going to repair these doors (to the best of my ability) and hope to find one of these 50 bucks a door deal that many have spoken of sometime in the near future.
    Yeah, a $50 door might be hard to find, but you never know what folks have kicking around and just want to be rid of. Have you put a "wanted" ad in the forum? You might want to try that, there are tons of folks on this forum with garages and basements full of parts that like helping out fellow members. Also, look around on Craigslist or other websites for old junkers that might be out there with collision damage, missing engines or otherwise not much value that might have a good pair of doors, you can get whole cars for the kind of money they're asking for the doors alone. One other thing to do might be to ask around to local body shops or welders for some prices on repairing the doors for you. If you're not a welder, you'll need to buy a lot of equipment and the results will take forever and probably not look that great, and still end up costing more than paying a professional to do it for you. Some shops might not want the work, just repairing a door or two, but they might have some guys in the shop who they'd allow to do that as "side work". Depends on the shop and how busy they are. This is an easy job for professionals, if they're not busy you might get them both repaired for the cost of one of those junkyard doors. I think most of us forget that there are pros out there to help us with things we're not comfortable with, and they often do the work for less money than you'd expect. There's no tear down, and the doors don't look very bad, the repairs are pretty minor. A quick turnaround of a day or two for the shop and an easy job to fit in between other work. It's worth asking a few places, at least.

    On the other hand, if you really want to learn to weld, or you enjoy the work as a hobby, then go for it!

  16. #16
    FEP Senior Member Matt J's Avatar
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    I just looked and found a few things that might work:

    https://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/c...415467520.html

    This one's in Greenville: https://greenville.craigslist.org/ct...407717949.html

    They might or might now work, but if you look around, you might find what you're looking for. Or the doors you have might be reasonable to repair. Good luck!

  17. #17

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    Matt J, I appreciate the ideas. I have been looking at the car in Greenville but another car in the driveway is going to get me divorced or worse. lol. I haven't posted a WTB here yet and I think I'm going to do that next. I am going to repair these doors either way. I have them and I want to learn so why not. thanks again.

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