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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Default Reman Holley 4180

    Has anyone here bought one of the remanufactured Holley 4180 4 barrel carbs offered by the parts stores?
    If so how well do they work and do I need to keep anything from the old carb? With the fire and all I now have to replace a lot of vacuum lines and Im thinking about trying to go back to completely stock.

    The price is literaly within a few dollars of replacing with an edelbrock so I would like some opinions.

  2. #2

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    In general, I have a very poor opinion of parts store reman carbs, not the least of which, because carburetors
    should -never- be sandblasted. But beyond that, I've seen too much mix-and-match, and marginal cores in
    reman carbs, and many of them never run right no matter what you do to them.

    I personally would not use a parts store reman carb, without completely going through it first. And given that,
    there's little reason for me to ever use one.

    I would much rather start with a tired original core that hasn't been molested by the rebuilder mills.
    Last edited by JACook; 11-19-2017 at 10:09 AM.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Default

    Well I have that option too since I have an original carb that I could go thru and freshen up

  4. #4

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    If you've got an unmolested original carb, I would never trade that in on a reman. The Holley kit for a 4180C
    is p/n 3-1346. About $50 at Summit.

    The original 4180C is a more accurate carb than the Edelbrock, and the annular primary boosters give the carb
    more booster signal and better atomization, particularly at part-throttle. Typically, the annular boosters are good
    for about a 4-6 number decrease in main jet sizing for an equivalent fuel mixture. Don't make the mistake of
    thinking this is just an emissions carb. The things that made it good for emissions also make it an excellent
    performer on a 5.0 HO.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  5. #5

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    I agree with what Jeff has told you above (there's ALOT of lack of attention to detail and ham-fisted butchery that goes on out there... nobody is going to exercise the care and concern for your carburetor than you), and would work with (inspect, clean, rebuild) whatever you have, be that an aftermarket or a factory carburetor. Sorry about the fire you had, but all that requires is a fuel leak source (gasket, needle & seat, whatnot) and a source for ignition... and there isn't any brand or type of carburetor (or fuel injection and high pressures, for that matter), that hasn't got the potential to leak.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 11-19-2017 at 05:31 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

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