keep 4180 or new carb??

[85md]

My '85 just had a major redo, engine overhaul, new paint, etc.. I am the original owner and I am keeping it stock as possible, I was going to have my 4180 carb rebuilt again (done by Pony carbs years ago). Since I am trying to keep stock, is it worth it to keep the original carb or is there an equivalent aftermarket to at least keep the stock appearance? No mods on the car at all, specifically no power mods.
Thanks,
Paul

[Walking-Tall]

I would freshen up the ole 4180 yourself, or have it done by somebody that is competent at doing so.

[854vragtop]

Did you like the way it ran when when the carb was freshly re-built? Cold driveablility? Any hesitation when shifting? If no issues, stay with what you have. If you go with something new, definitely keep ALL your 4180c related parts & smog stuff in a box.

[bwguardian]

Going through mine now. When I rebuilt it back in 2011 it was so smooth and really felt like fuel injection. Going to make a few adjustments and run it again...until this darn oxygenated fuel gets the better of it again.

[steam_mill]

I have minor mods on my ‘85 such as msd, shorty headers, flow master exhaust. Carb has not been rebuilt I 15 years. Timing is bumped up so cold start take a few extra cranks. Once warmed up, idles like a fuelie.

[85md]

Is there somewhere with step by step instructions? Which rebuild kit? Back in 92, I rebuilt it. It has been a while, don’t want to skip a step or screw it up. I have the ford manuals, I assume rebuild is in there? Also, wasn’t there something about the kits using a check ball valve in place of something original??

[cb650]

look on u tube. I looked at several there for my carb and felt much better about doing it myself. Although mine isnt stock.

[FoxChassis]

http://foureyedpride.com/fep_bild/v/mass_upload/4180C/

[JACook]

Holley rebuild kit number 3-1346. About $50 at Summit.

[Walking-Tall]

Don't forget these instructions.... ACCESS to all idle mixture screws. Whatever Ford was doing in '85 has absolutely nothing to do with what you are doing today. During idle, the secondary should contribute VERY LITTLE to the idle air:fuel mixture, like 1/4 turn out on those secondary idle mixture mixture screws. More important is removing them all and cleaning everything very well, and replacing the idle mixture screw o-rings.

[JACook]

I generally end up with the screws a bit farther out than that, using the propane enrichment method to get all
four barrels contributing equally at idle, but I agree, you don't want too much contribution from the secondaries,
or you'll end up with a stubborn part-throttle flat spot.

One other thing the propane enrichment method has taught me, you generally do not end up with the screws
equal turns out on both sides. On the primaries, part of that has to do with the air bleed in the passenger side
bore for the partial manifold vacuum that's applied to the ported vacuum feed at idle. The rest comes down to
mixture distribution in the intake manifold.

When removing the mixture screw plugs, I like to make the job as invisible as possible, by drilling 1/8" holes up
through the bottom of the baseplate to intersect with the back edge of the plugs. Then drive the plugs out with
a small punch. The plugs sit about 1/4" deep in the mixture screw bores, and have a slight chamfer on the edge
that's in the hole.

Another alternative is to put 1/8" holes into the center of the plugs themselves, using a Dremel carbide bullnose
bit, cutting oil, and patience. Then back the screws out to push out the plugs.