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Thread: Engine fire!

  1. #1
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Default Engine fire!

    Well I'm not exactly what happened yet but I had a fire under the hood on my 85 Saleen. I used one complete extinguisher and most of a second. I haven't taken inventory yet but it looks to be mostly vacuum lines. Both rubber and plastic. I will probably need some reference pics somewhere along the way. Thankfully nothing major was damaged and the car still starts and runs. Scared the absolute hell out of me. I'm always careful and I always think how does that happen but now I know.

  2. #2
    FEP Member jeff85's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear that. Hope the repairs go smooth.

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    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear it.

    Its not anything other than an older car issue. EFi cars do it too.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...6-0188-(/page2

    If you are free to talk a little more, if its not too much.


    What extinguiser did you have, dagenham?

    The behind the seat kind or another garage item.

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Holy Crap!

    I'm curious to know what happened.
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    I had the smaller Kidde auto versions. The first one just happened to be on the workbench. The second was behind the seat of my svo.
    I just bought three more tonight.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Bless your cotton socks, dagenham. Nice work. Everyone should read Brocks recent Fire Extinguisher posts.

    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    I'm honestly surprised it took this long.

    Since I'm in a safety related field, there are a few things I try and engrain in the minds of people. It never hurts to bring this up every now and then as it could be a matter of life and death.

    Whether it's your home, business, auto or toy, NEVER.....NEVER cheap out on safety equipment, especially fire extinguishers.

    Here are a few points I like to speak about during these conversations.

    1) Never buy a cheap extinguisher without a gauge. The failure rate is anywhere between 28 - 50% brand new, out of the box. That's almost like playing a game of russian roulette.

    2) Never buy an extinguisher that has it's handles or valves made of plastic. Whoever thought that was a good idea obviously never needed to try and save something on fire. This is especially true for an extinguisher that is in a vehicle where it is subject to constantly varying heat, cold and vibration. This will kill the plastic components quickly. This point also links to #1 above.

    3) Initial cost vs value. In all honesty, the cost between buying an extinguisher from a big box store to the local fire supply is not that much different. Most of the time, you get a good test and refill rate if you have them service one they sell. The box store ones may or not be serviceable which adds cost down the road. I would rather have a quality extinguisher that I know will work for years to come even if it cost me a little more on the front end.

    4) Inspect your extinguishers regularly. No matter if it's in your home, business or car, get in the habit of looking at it monthly to make sure it is in good condition, the gauge is in service range and the pin is securely in place. Nothing worse than grabbing one when you need it and it is empty or defective.

    5) MOST IMPORTANTLY.........take a class on how to use one and refresh yourself annually or so.
    There is a right way and a wrong way to use these. Many people that own one, have them because they are required to or told to, but they don't really have a clue how to use it properly. Many fires are made worse by the person behind the extinguisher.
    Aim too high and it's ineffective, wasting all the charge before the fire is smothered. Aim too low and you will spread the fire in a hurry, making it too large for the extinguisher. There is a fairly fine line across the base that must be hit in order to smother it quickly and getting the feel of it comes with practice. Since hopefully you are not using extinguishers on a regular basis, that's where the classes come in. Fire Dept's, Fire supply companies and even some local Community Colleges put on a short seminar and conduct hands on training on how to properly use one. To me, I feel it is worth the investment as the class cost is usually cheap and it only takes about an hour or so out of your time.
    and
    Quote Originally Posted by 84StangSVT View Post
    Interesting topic! I will throw my 2 cents in also for what it is worth.

    For around the home, I would retain the standard ABC Dry chemical due to the effectiveness and cost of the units. In a car, I would either go with the Amerex Halotron1 or the Ansul Cleanguard. No mess with either and they are both highly effective. Cost is about double what a dry chemical is but it pays for itself if you need to use it. Dry chemical WILL destroy most electronics it touches as it is highly corrosive to circuitry. Having set one off in a car once before I can attest to the fact that it is almost impossible to get all of the residue out of the car, no matter how much you vacuum it.

    I will say though that I would rather carry a dry chemical over none at all in the event of something bad was to happen. It could make the difference between saving it and watching it burn assuming one knows how to properly use an extinguisher. I have seen people make fires worse by not knowing how to use them properly.

    The Amerex/H3R Aviation B385TS 2.5lb goes anywhere the Kidde H3R 2.5 pound bottle goes, and you can mount it on turboj74's LMR site recomended seat mont.

    Or this 2.5 lb front mount



    Sadly, no foot park brake, so no easy center mount 1965 GT350 R Shelby mount,



    dang...



    This is part of the doubling curve of technology, and there's nothing preventing us being fire extinguiser experts with a little on line training.

    Both he and I have been involved in industrial fire safety. I've been involved with radiology Non Destructive CBIP testing, Bulk Bitumen from the Bitumen Contractors Association since the early 90's with "Caltex" Storage tanks and Hot Mix Asphalt/ Asphatic Cement, and my late relative was a "BP" tar seal applicator. Also with NZ Oil Refineries. Another company who used to be owned by Shell Oil now does virtual reality scene scenarios for emergencies,




    and its a real primer for safety which would be good for every American to have a go at.

    https://www.corvecto.com

    Kiwis are sadly a lot less safe, but we are playing catchup as the personal liablities thing kicks in.

  7. #7
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    A carb fire is the. Quickest way to kill off minimum valued classic car these days. By the time you take to a mechanic you are in for $500 and quickly headed for $1500 in repairs. That’s not even considering any body repair. I have seen several nice looking CA cars being parted out for this. People just don’t see the value in making repairs after the damage has been done.

    Sorry to hear about the problems. It’s not the first 85 Saleen I have seen burned.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
    84 SVO 24K miles, 85 Mclaren Capri Vert. 84 GT Turbo Vert.
    88 Mclaren Mustang Vert 20K miles, 89 Mustang LX Sport Vert,
    03 Mach 1 7900 miles, 74 Mustang II, 69 Mustang, 67 Mustang, 07 GT500,
    14 Mustang CS/GT, 15 F150 FTX Tuscany, 16 F250 Crewcab, 67 Tbird 47K miles

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Luckily as far as I can tell the biggest cost for me will be a new Edelbrock carb to replace the Holley that started it all. Its mostly rubber and plastic lines that burnt but I'm sure there are some parts also.
    Keep in mind it is not a factory carb but an after market holley that was on the car when I bought it. I did put a rebuild kit in it which it definitely needed. I also use ethanol treatment so I don't believe it was from deterioration. Though I could be wrong. The fire was at the rear of the carb so my investigation will start in that area.

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member sowaxeman's Avatar
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    The guys I know in the Saleen hobby here in Indy swear by taking a piece of tubing and placing it on the two bowl vent tubes, bending it to redirect any overflow into the barrels to flood the car out in the event the floats stick and start spewing fuel. In their mind its not a matter of if...but WHEN it happens. Better to flood the carb out than have the stock vent tubes fill the lower air cleaner housing with fuel, and then spill down on the coil and exhaust to start the dreaded fire.
    Jason Smith
    MCA #65481

    '82 Capri RS Resto-Mod
    '88 #400 Saleen Coupe "Mean Machine" Legal Guardian
    '93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,800 Mile Original Survivor (Foxtoberfest 2019 Best Original 87-93)
    '05 S-281 Mineral Grey

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member plumkrazy's Avatar
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    Best of luck with the repairs glad to hear not worse.

    I know what I'm asking for Christmas New Amerex Halotron1 or the Ansul Cleanguard fire extinguisher's
    1 of 3 1985 Silver Grand Prix Capr's
    My first New car and still own 1986 Capri

  11. #11
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    We turned the fire into the insurance. I'm glad too. The appraiser basically said figure out the cost of all the needed parts (including a new carb) and he is adding in a few hours labor. I'm up to $700 and not done yet.

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Glad it's not too crispy. good luck on repairs.

  13. #13
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    or



    You can even have a choice of crome plating if you must...385TS---->Optional Chrome Plated Cylinder B385TSC, or B385TC






    Halons are still used, known for the advantages in fire, so enjoy them for safety while you can

    https://www.epa.gov/snap/substitutes...ion-protection
    https://www.epa.gov/ozone-layer-prot...halons-program

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