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  1. #1
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Default Clutch Cable Bracket seems too long

    I am in the process of putting my car back together... previous owner stripped everything out of the engine bay, so I have had a crazy time getting the most simple things like clutch cable and speedo cable routed like the factory did.

    I just bought a brand new clutch cable from LMR, and I attempted to install it today, and all went well until I went to secure the bracket to the drivers side frame rail, and the bracket hits the header before it can be mounted fully.

    It appears as thought the bracket is too long, so not sure what options I have. Wish I had the original clutch cable, but I don't.

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    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    Default

    Aftermarket long tubes. They're not stock shorties.. Bend the bracket forward an inch or so, problem solved.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

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  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Default

    Appears to be correct to me. As mentioned above your headers sticking out more seem to be the issue.

    Normally I would recommend removing the bracket as Maximum Motorsports does to prevent any bind in the clutch cable operation, but with the proximity to your headers, you will need to protect the cable.

    You probably don't want to spend the extra $$ right now since you already have one, but IMHO the MM cable is a much higher quality piece than most of the replacements out there. The cable is longer too which helps with routing around headers, etc. I highly recommend it as that is all I buy for all of my Foxes these days. I have run one on my PC for years without the bracket and no issues at all. Good Luck!

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/MM...2-04-P897.aspx
    ​Trey

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  5. #5
    FEP Super Member mmb617's Avatar
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    The MM clutch cable is a really nice piece and the extra length helps a lot with header clearance. I don't have a lot of room in my engine compartment with the Windsor and long tubes but with the MM cable and after cutting and rewelding the bracket to make it shorter everything clears.
    408/T5/3.73's

    We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.

  6. #6

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    Sn-95 cables also work and are a few inches longer. To be honest, I don't get all the hate on parts store cables.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  7. #7
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmb617 View Post
    The MM clutch cable is a really nice piece and the extra length helps a lot with header clearance. I don't have a lot of room in my engine compartment with the Windsor and long tubes but with the MM cable and after cutting and rewelding the bracket to make it shorter everything clears.
    Thanks for all of the input, I think for now I will do as mmb617 mentions, and cut the bracket, and shorten it by about 1.5" and I should have plenty of clearance. As for routing, I wanted to how others here are routing their cable if they have an aftermarket K-member? I have an AJE K-member, and was thinking of routing the cable through the motor mount bracket. Currently I'm routing it through a hole in the K-member, which appears to have plenty of clearance, but I wanted to see how others are routing their cables. Sorry to ask all of the routing questions, but none of this was in my car when I got it, and I have scoured Google for routing pics, and have had a tough time finding much.... so asking you guys and learning as I go.
    85 GT Hatchback, T-Tops. 2012 Coyote 5.0L Swap, T56 Magnum, GT550 Dept of Boost kit, with Eaton M122 SC, RAM 11" Powergrip clutch, BBK Long Tubes/OR X-Pipe, Flowmaster Axle Back, Stifflers DS Loop, and Rear X-member, AJE Tube Crossmember with AJE-Mod Mounts, 3.73 Posi 8.8, 5 lug Cobra 13" fr and 12.6" rear disc swap, 2004 Hydroboost Swap, MM SubFrame Connectors, MM Panhard Bar, MM front A-Arms, MM rear control arms, MM CC Plates, MM Coilovers w/Koni dampeners, MM Torque Arm (soon to be installed).

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    Directly under the motor mounts, in the space between the tubular part of the k-member and it's motor mount frame.

    Stock or MM is all I'd ever use as well. Nothing but eventual stretching on any other cable. The MM is made from Ford tooling.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  9. #9

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    be carefull if you shorten the bracket. you wouldn't think so but the cable will pull on the clutch as you move it closer to the frame rail. you might not be able to adjust it properly.

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