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  1. #26
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    e.g 1 CMK E5AE 9C485 CFi Fuel Injected M code Automatic transmission only 1985 5.0 2v Mustang or Capri

    VECI does show the V REST for the CFi M codes between the Purge Valve and the Charcoal canister






    e.g 2 CHB E5AE 9C48 4 bbl Carbed M code Manual Transmission only 1985 5.0 4v Mustang or Capri


    On all other 4-bbl F codes (1983) M codes from 1984 to 1985, the system is quite different, and not the same as the CFi or 86 Port 5.0 EFI



    Red car is the 86 EFi or later 5.0 Mustang

    Live data. 1986 to 1990, no but people who do MAF conversions pick up the later DCL capable EECIV's, and they work.

    http://www.atraonline.com/gears/2000...fixing_it.html
    On some vehicles there may be 10-12 PID lines available; other models can provide as many as 40+ PID lines. It's far easier and faster to diagnose faults with these newer systems that can transmit a data stream. Prior to these systems, you'd have to use a breakout box or backprobe circuits, which made testing much more time consuming. But now, with the advent of EEC-IV data stream display, it's a walk in the park.
    EECIV you can no real live data (except maybe a few things). It has to be able to access the the data bus, but you can find a heap of 1991-1992 5.0 A9L's that have it and 5.8 box codes as well.

    By the early 1990s certain 5.0 and 5.8 Ford/Lincoln/Mercury models had sensor data streaming capability. The feature is technically called DCL (Data Communications Link), not just DTC's. These models have 2 additional data bus wires to the EEC-IV diagnostic connector.

    But Live data is avaliable although its polling rate is low. PIDs (parameter IDs) were set up by Ford as OBD I (a 1991 and later California) standard.

    Technically, most EEC-IV around 91 and later supports the live data stream without twEECer or Moats Quarter Horse.

    with twEECer or Moats Q/H http://www.tweecer.com/ will plug in the J3 port and look at the data after the EEC filters it

    with sneeciv http://www.racesystems.com/sneeciv/sneec.htm will give you data from between the harness and EEC


    OTC 3211 opens up any PIDS, the EEC IV sensors and relays which are monitored via the old 007 breakout box.


  2. #27

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    80sDave,

    What follows is a list of the parts, with part numbers where I can, that you will need to have for a functioning Air Management System (Smog Pump System). In another post or posts I'll post pictures of the various parts or systems so you can get a feel for what you need.

    I'll try and attach a PDF copy of the Ford parts diagram I got from my local parts store. It should help you visualize the system. I've never posted a PDF here before so it may not work out. I can send this to you directly if it does not work out here. The quality of the printout I scanned is not the best from the dealer so it is hard to see some of the part numbers but should give you a good idea of what you need. You may be able to get the same printout from your local Ford dealer.

    FordSmogPartsDiagram.pdf

    One thing to note is that in the post by xctasy on 10-29-2017 there is a photograph of the smog pump, hoses and valves that although generic is not correct for a Mustang. The diagram below the photo with the yellow highlighting is correct.


    For a functioning factory system you need:

    1. Smog Pump, pulley and the mounting brackets and bolts.

    My pump is MON E3ZE-EB. What is important is that it is a 31 LB/HR pump. There are various configurations and uses of this pump. You may be able to find one from a different model vehicle that will work.


    2. Bypass or Dump Valve

    Mine is E1TE-9B289-GA. These seem vary common on Mustangs up to 1995. I have ones from from a 1991 and a 1994 and they are the same except for date codes.


    3. Divertor Valve

    Mine is E47e-9F491. These also seem very common on Mustangs up to 1995. I also have these from a 1991 and 1994 and they are the same except for date codes.


    4. 4 Distribution hoses, clamps and hose brace.

    You have the hose from the Divertor Valve to the Check Valve on the pipe to the back of the heads so you will not need that hose but you will need the other three. These hoses are also similar to quite a few Mustangs up to 1995. On a set of hoses I have the Divertor to Catalyst hose is stamped Motorcraft AU E4ZE-9G459-DA and the Bypass Valve to Divertor Valve hose is stamped Mortorcraft AU E6SE-9G424-BA.


    5. Pipe and Check Valve to rear of cylinder heads

    I believe this a common to quite a few Ford 5.0L applications. You have this part so no need to find one.


    6. Convertor Air Pipe and Check Valve

    This is the pipe that goes to the factory catalytic convertor H pipe. Here is a link to a thread on this site that explains some of the nuances with this pipe and where to find them.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...r-Tube-Bracket


    7. 4 Catalytic Convertor H Pipe


    8. Dual Vacuum Control Switch Assembly

    This is mounted on the rear of the passenger side shock tower below the EGR regulator valve. It has two vacuum switches in a package. One for the Divertor Valve and one for the Bypass Valve along with two electical connections. One for each switch. My part number for this is E65E-9D474 A2A. Looking at your pictures I think you have this valve assembly so you may not need this is if it functions properly.


    9. Vacuum Tank

    This tank is mounted between the passenger side plastic inner fender and the body at the firewall where the brake line goes to the rear of the car. I believe you have this.


    10. Vacuum Hose Assembly

    This is the plastic and rubber hose assembly and check valve that connects the manifold vacuum to the various parts. There is an additional separate rubber hose that connects the vacuum canister to the hose assembly at the Dual Vacuum Control Switch Assembly. There may be other connections and hoses as your car as AC. Looking at your pictures it looks like you may have all the vacuum hoses. More detailed pictures and checks by you should verify this.


    11. Correct Wiring.

    From your pictures it looks like your wiring is in place.


    12. Correct ECA (Processor)

    You probably have this but it might be a good idea to check. I'm not sure what you should have.


    From looking at your pictures it looks like you will need items: 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, and 7. Hopefully the other items are in place and functional. You'll have to check for them.


    Over the next few days I'll try and post photos of the individual parts.

  3. #28

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    80sDave,

    Here are some photos of the components. I'll start first with the items I believe you will need and then move on to the items I believe you have and will need to check to make sure they are complete and eventually functional checks.

    Pump

    First photo is from below, second from above. The from above photo shows the pump and the pump elbow, hose from the pump elbow to the Bypass (Dump) Valve, Bypass Valve, a partial of the hose from the Bypass Valve to the Divertor Valve and the clamps. The clamps in the system are Tridon blacks with the Ford logo. Standard Tridon clamps will work but purists will likely want the factory black Ford logo clamps. Later model Mustang hoses and clamps (my samples are 1994) are different and have the clamps riveted to the hoses. 1986 clamps and the 1991 sample I have are not riveted to the hoses.

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  4. #29

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    Hose and Valve System

    The first photo is of the hose system and the Bypass Valve and Divertor Valve out of a car. The other photos are of the system in my 1986 GT Automatic. The second photo is of the hose from the Bypass Valve to the Divertor Valve and the black plastic vacuum line to the Bypass Valve. The third photo is of the hose from the Bypass Valve to the Divertor Valve, Divertor Valve, hoses from the Divertor Valve to the Convertor Air Tube and the tube to the back of the heads. It also shows the vacuum lines to the Divertor Valve and the Bypass Valve. The white vacuum line is for the Divertor Valve and the black line is for the Bypass Valve. From a review of your pictures it looks like you have the vacuum lines in place but it is difficult to see. The fourth picture is of the same parts as photo three but a different close up view from the side. No vacuum lines in place.

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  5. #30

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    Bypass Valve

    The first photo is of the pump elbow, hose to the Bypass Valve, Bypass Valve and the hose to the Divertor Valve. The black plastic vacuum line goes to the top of the Bypass Valve with a straight rubber fitting. Photo two is a close up of the front of the Bypass Valve. This is a 1994 example but the 1986 and 1991 ones are the same except for date code. Date code of this example is January 26, 1994, second shift. The third photo is of the back of a 1991 part showing the metal brace on the back of the hose from the pump elbow to the valve.

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  6. #31

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    Divertor Valve

    This is a 1994 example. The 1986 in my car and the 1991 example are all the same except for date codes. This date code is February 2, 1994.

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    Convertor Air Tube

    The convertor tube pipes have a number of configurations. The primary difference is that some of the tubes have the tube crimped to the check valve as this example while others such as the one in my 1986 GT have the tube clamped to the check valve with the same clamp as the bottom where clamped to the tube from the H pipe. This example has a label on the check valve with the code E8DE-9A487-AA.

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  7. #32

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    Air tube and check valve to rear of cylinder heads

    You have this tube but I've included it for completeness for others who may need it.

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    Dual Vacuum Switch Assembly

    This assembly has a vacuum switch for the Divertor Valve and the Bypass Valve. Vacuum connections are on the bottom and the electrical connections are on the top. The electrical connections are keyed so you can't put them on wrong. On the top of each switch is a cap. Underneath the cap is a vacuum release valve so that when the switch changes state the vacuum is released if necessary. Part number on my valve in the photos is E65E 9D474 A2A. Mine was in poor shape so I replaced it with an NOS unit I found from a Ford dealer on eBay. The updated part number on that unit is E65Z 9D474 A. I believe you have this but you will need to check to see if it is there and check it for function. I can help with this if needed.

    [ATTACH]116625[/ATTACH
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  8. #33

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    Vacuum Hose Assembly

    This is the vacuum hose assembly that goes from the vacuum source at the firewall to the switch assembly and then to the Divertor Valve and the Bypass Valve. The blue device on the source end is the check valve. If you look closely at the left plug for the vacuum switches at the bottom of the photo you will see a T fitting. This is where the vacuum canister hose attaches.

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    I don't have any pictures of the vacuum canister. If I have the inner fender panel off one day I'll take a photo.


    That is all I can think of for now. Let me know if you need anything else.

  9. #34

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    Great posts, its a big help. Many thanks. I will be off work tomorrow and will go over my car and check to see whats present and whats missing. Is there a way I should check the EGR assembly for function? Maybe I can find something on that online too. Managed to score a nice factory H-pipe setup today that looks to be in good shape, came off an '89 I was told. Will try to check things out one by one so will probably have some more questions. Looking forward to getting things back in order, maybe it will run a little smoother and hopefully eliminate that ungodly exhaust stink.
    Last edited by 80sDave; 11-03-2017 at 08:26 PM.

  10. #35

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    Glad the info was helpful.

    Here is a thread that I started regarding the EGR solenoid (EVR) etc. Shows some pictures of it. xctasy also posted similar info on that thread as well. Was a help to get started.

    There is some really good info on the Tomco website in the tech section

    http://www.tomco-inc.com/techinfo.html

    Start with reading this one:

    http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt31.pdf

    and then this one:

    http://www.tomco-inc.com/Tech_Tips/ttt32.pdf

    then read the others on Ford EGR valves and controls as needed. This will get you started.

    Over the next few days I will try and post my test procedures and results. I have some good photos of he EVP sensor and more of the EVR.





    . I spent quite a bit of time sorting mine out including checking the EGR position sensor. I had planned to finish the thread with an update on how I sorted mine out but never got it finished.

  11. #36

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    Sorry not to get back to this sooner, had cold or something for a couple days and didnt feel like working on it. Anyway before I saw the info in the post above, I read over some online info about some things to check on the EGR setup. I unplugged the electrical connector on the EGR and checked for voltage on the orange wire, got 5V. Checked the electrical connector on the EVR solenoid on the shock tower and had 12V on the red wire. With the engine warmed up and at idle, I unhooked the grey plastic vacuum line off the EGR and applied vacuum to the EGR and the engine stumbled and went back to smooth idle when vacuum was released. Then I hooked up a vacuum gauge to that grey plastic vacuum line off the EGR valve and hit the rpm's up to 2500 a couple times but got no vacuum reading as I read I should have. I noticed the vacuum lines from the TAD and TAB solenoids below the EVR were looped, or connected to each other on the ends where they would have connected to the solenoids on the hose from the air pump. Dont know what effect that would have if any, on the lack of vacuum from the EVR when I revved up the engine. I will read through the links you posted and do some more research. If you have any thoughts or suggestions there, let me know.
    Also checked over the lines from the charcoal cannister and they are all there. Not sure yet how to check cannister solenoid for operation yet though. Trying to go though the info and check things out one by one so I dont overlook something. It looks like ebay may be a source for the air pump hoses and the inline solenoids. Dont know if I should go for a used air pump or get a reman one from rockauto or somewhere.

  12. #37

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    Is the little metal bracket that goes on the short hose between the air pump and the bypass valve a critical item? I located a set of the hoses and valves but it is missing that bracket piece.

  13. #38

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    I've been sidelined on another project so haven't had the time to check in lately. Will try and post some more info when I have some time. Hopefully soon.

    I don't think the little metal bracket should be a big issue. I'd try without it. It supports the short hose to make sure it is straight. If it doesn't work well without it I'd look for another set of hoses. It may take you awhile but pretty much all Mustangs had these from 1986 to 1995 so you should be able to find one somewhere. My experience is the complete set of hoses and valves should be inexpensive. I've bought a set both privately and from an autowrecker and paid $20 each time which I thought was fair.

    Let me know how you make out.

  14. #39

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    Just noticed that in my previous post above on the EGR I didn't include a link to my other post on the EGR and the EGR solenoid (EVR) .

    Here it is:

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...on-amp-Testing

  15. #40

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    Dave, not sure if you got anywhere with the EGR but I was questioning the EGR operation myself and upon further investigation I read on another forum that if the car is parked or stationary the EGR valve does not respond to throttle, I think the EEC looks to the speed sensor to make sure the car is in motion before sending the electrical signal to the solenoid to allow vacuum to the EGR valve.

  16. #41
    FEP Senior Member 86gtstang's Avatar
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    If you still need this stuff I have everything, I removed it all from my 86 GT, still have the catted H-pipe
    Robert
    86 GT vert
    85 GT

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