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Thread: Gas odor

  1. #26

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    I think the studs that hold the carb down will conduct much more heat than the copper rings so that should be a non issue.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  2. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by gt4494 View Post
    I think the studs that hold the carb down will conduct much more heat than the copper rings so that should be a non issue.
    And yet... Every good heat-insulating gasket has plastic spacers around the studs... Go figure.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT CFI/AOD Vert, all factory...
    '04 Mach-1 40th Anny, 34K original miles... '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 58K original miles ...
    65 notch, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ... '68 Vert 307 4-speed...
    (And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune)

  3. #28

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    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    And yet... Every good heat-insulating gasket has plastic spacers around the studs... Go figure.
    I dunno! Good point though.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  4. #29
    FEP User Dave9052's Avatar
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    I have installed heat-insulating gasket between egr plate and carburetor (it has plastic spacers around studs). I checked heat riser valve and it is working properly moves freely I also checked movement with hand vacuum pump works great. When I checked egr valve it was stuck part of the way open. So hot exhaust gases were being routed thru intake and egr valve all the time. Maybe this caused overheated carb to drip gas after shutdown. It is currently blocked off. On short trips that barely warm engine I have not had the smell on longer trips with engine fully warmed up there may be slight odor but much, much better. Here in Michigan it is about time to put her to bed for the winter. I would like to thank everyone who helped me with this problem, and all the advice. What a great bunch of people on FEP.
    .

  5. #30

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    At this time of year I'm surpised it even warms up the engine.

    Note: we are from the south and my kids lived in Hazel Park (Detroit) for 3 years. It was the coldest 3 years of their lives.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  6. #31
    FEP User Dave9052's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gt4494 View Post
    At this time of year I'm surpised it even warms up the engine.

    Note: we are from the south and my kids lived in Hazel Park (Detroit) for 3 years. It was the coldest 3 years of their lives.
    Yes it can get crazy cold here. I live north of Detroit in the City of Saint Clair along the Saint Clair River, about 35 miles north of Hazel Park and 15 miles east. I could almost throw a stone across the river into Canada. Average highs this time of year is around 50, not to bad yet.

  7. #32

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    we touched 80 with a low around 68.
    "If you can't explain it simply, you don't understand it well enough."
    Albert Einstein

    1984 20th Anniversary GT350
    Almost "Stock"

  8. #33
    FEP Power Member 85stanggt's Avatar
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    I have the gas odor, and it's really bad. The house stinks up if I drive the car, so I have to fix it. I'd like to explore a couple things more...

    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    The valve defaults to open. It's also possible for the butterfly to come loose inside, and that's a bit more
    work to check. But since you haven't mentioned a rattling sound in the exhaust, I don't expect yours has.
    It's been a long time since I checked, but last time the riser valve worked fine, held a vacuum and opened and closed as it should. I do, however, have this rattling in the exhaust as the engine warms up. It is the valve, because I can hear the exhaust tone change when the valve fully opens and the rattling stops. Is the rattle a problem? and I can just be happy the valve opens?

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave9052 View Post
    I have installed heat-insulating gasket between egr plate and carburetor (it has plastic spacers around studs). I checked heat riser valve and it is working properly moves freely I also checked movement with hand vacuum pump works great. When I checked egr valve it was stuck part of the way open. So hot exhaust gases were being routed thru intake and egr valve all the time. Maybe this caused overheated carb to drip gas after shutdown. It is currently blocked off. On short trips that barely warm engine I have not had the smell on longer trips with engine fully warmed up there may be slight odor but much, much better. Here in Michigan it is about time to put her to bed for the winter. I would like to thank everyone who helped me with this problem, and all the advice. What a great bunch of people on FEP.
    .
    How could you tell the valve was stuck open? I have my EGR plate and valve off the car. Everything looks ok. Do I have to separate the valve from the plate? I was hoping not to have separate the valve from the plate, since I don't have the gasket for it.
    1985 Mustang GT Convertible
    Stock and original @ 213k, except for dynomax ultraflos.

  9. #34
    FEP User Dave9052's Avatar
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    Yes you do have remove the valve to verify if it is stuck open or not. It has a gasket that seems pretty durable and mine was easy to remove and reuse. Once you remove the valve you will be able to see how the valve works by being pulled back by the vacuum, and may not be be completely closed when it should be due to carbon buildup. It can be cleaned out with carb cleaner. If your gasket gets messed up you could get some gasket material and make one it has 4 holes in it 2 for bolts and 2 larger ones for bypass. Back in the 70's when egr valves were some what new, they caused a lot of rough running engines mostly at idle. there were a lot of complaints by new car customers. And it was not uncommon at dealers, to keep a customer happy, if a ball bearing found its way into the vacuum line making the egr valve non operational.

  10. #35

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    Quote Originally Posted by 85stanggt View Post
    I do, however, have this rattling in the exhaust as the engine warms up. It is the valve, because I can hear the exhaust tone change when the valve fully opens and the rattling stops. Is the rattle a problem? and I can just be happy the valve opens?
    I hesitate to call it normal, but a light rattle from the heat riser valve during warmup is not unusual.

    Quote Originally Posted by 85stanggt View Post
    How could you tell the valve was stuck open? I have my EGR plate and valve off the car. Everything looks ok. Do I have to separate the valve from the plate? I was hoping not to have separate the valve from the plate, since I don't have the gasket for it.
    The gasket is a non-issue. A new one is available just about everywhere for cheap. But if you don't want to
    separate the valve from the plate, you can try pulling a vacuum on the discharge tube in the center of the
    EGR spacer plate to see if it leaks. If it is leaking, I would expect you'd be having a rough idle. I have only
    ever had one of these stick, and it was obvious when it happened.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT CFI/AOD Vert, all factory...
    '04 Mach-1 40th Anny, 34K original miles... '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 58K original miles ...
    65 notch, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ... '68 Vert 307 4-speed...
    (And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune)

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