The idle feed restrictions are probably hiding, vertically, in the idle (outer) wells, about 1/4" below the brass cup plugs up top... a bit below the upper angle ~0.120" holes...
Silver stickers (or remnants of) around the mixture screws, indicating "reverse-idle"?...
Primary idle air bleeds for regular idle will be in the neighborhood of 0.070"... "reverse-idle", smaller. Have I seen Holley assemble and sell a mish-mash of the two, regular and reverse parts together, and fixed 'em? Yes.
Are you able to gauge what size the primary idle air bleeds (outer) are?
Are the mixture screw tips short and stubby ("reverse-idle"), or long sharp-tipped (regular idle)? How big are the small holes (~0.102" ("reverse-idle") or 0.063" (regular idle)) in the metering block that the mixture screw tips go into?...
Sometimes if the engine is wild enough or the idle circuit is too rich or very touchy to adjust, some will drill those "auxiliary air bleed" holes to lean the idle circuit some and to make the mixture screws less sensitive...
I'd suggest to block the "auxiliary air bleed" holes. Your combination obviously doesn't need them at 1-3/4 turns out with the mixture screws...
If the original or a replacement rating power valve is in there, I'd suggest that you take that silly 2.5"Hg power valve out, throw it away, and put at least a 6.5"Hg power valve into it. The brown vacuum secondary spring is a bit stiff (slow, maybe not fully opening) too. Purple one works good in most cases.
If you're up for it, I'd also suggest removing the idle well cup plugs...
Procedure for ^ : http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net...-plugs-holders
... drilling out those probable hidden idle feed restrictions, and installing 0.026" (stock/mild camshaft?) primary idle feed restrictions, submerged in the down-low position...
Honestly, (and for increased "fun" (or terror, LOL!) for your water-skiers, lol) Windsor would really like a 750 on it
Connect With Us