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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default Air snorkel trap doors wont open

    I have an 84 LX 5.0.

    I just worked out some oxygen sensor related issues and while I was checked everything out I noticed that the 2 trap doors in the air snorkels have constant vacuum pulling and as a result the traps stay closed all the time.

    I believe that those trap doors are supposed to close when the car is cold so it can funnel hot air off the manifold/headers up the flex tube into the air cleaner to warm up the car. Shouldn't those doors release and fall back into an open state to allow cold air to get in from outside while driving?

    I looked at the vacuum diagram and I think its correct. I have 2 vacuum port valves that fit the air cleaner. One is green the other purple. I tried both and both don't change the vacuum draw.

    Whats the correct way this air snorkel vacuum setup should be and how should it function?

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  2. #2
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    I think I figured it out.

    I think the bi metal sensor is bad. I had swapped it last year and luckily I saved the old one. I noticed I couldn't draw or blow air through the newer one but I could on the older one. I put it back in and the trap doors aren't constantly closed now but I will have to try this out on a cold morning to be sure they close when they are supposed to.

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    See below

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Nice.


    cfyi. Green and Purple TVS hook up as follows.


    As long as the white plastic coupler isn't damaged, Ford P/N D4AZ-9E688-A, then it'll be a problem with the color coded steel vac hookup.

    Its got a sequence of colored dots, if they aren't stock, it won't open as Ford intended.


    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...l-air-cleaners

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    ....

    Every HO CFI and probably passenger M code 4V HO I've seen has


    1. the Green and

    2. Purple color "TVS" stamped vac hookups, and

    3. one steel vac hookup.


    Ford calls the first two A/CL CWM: Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulators.

    The third, 3 A/CL BI MET: Air Cleaner Bi-Metallic Valve. Each are color coded depending on application, blue, red, and no third color usually. Some have a third color, often yellow or black.

    The Purple runs to the A/CL DV: Air Cleaner Duct & Valve and TAB and TAD solenoids on the CFi, and on the passenger 4bbl 5.0 HO, the same second CWM is for the air pump system, for models that don't have TAB and TAD solenoids.

    This 1983 4V carby 5.0 HO air cleaner from 79mustang shows the same fadded Purple TVS.



    4bbl Truck's at and from 1979 have sometimes one Green and always one White valve stamped TVS, still called by Ford A/CL CWM: Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulators , and lots of little 4180C/ 4190EG related changes.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...el-air-cleaner

    Quote Originally Posted by Wilson View Post
    This is an 83 unit that came from a 5.0 4speed car. Hope it helps.

    and
    Quote Originally Posted by 85MUSTANGTGT View Post
    fgross,

    I'm currently refurbing my air cleaner. See if these pics help.





    I can also post a copy of the air cleaner diagram page from the shop manual if needed and allowed.

    - Thomas

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Mine doesn't use the purple one. Mine is an 84 with one CWM on the air cleaner. I have a solenoid tree for the TAB/TAD's.

    I have a purple one because when I got my car 4 years ago I found one of the tip broken off the CWM and still inside the vacuum hose. Some idiot had tried to crazy glue it but it didn't stick. When I searched for a replacement at first I was only able to find purple ones. I used a purple one for a few years until last year when I found a stock NOS green one. I had also picked up a new bi met sensor at the same time. I had thought it was a good idea to swap them both.

    Funny thing about the color coding on the bi met sensor, I had painted the air cleaner a few years ago and I painted the face of the bi met black so theres no way for me to check the original color code but I did put the original one back in. Not sure why the NOS one I put in last year failed but as I said it would not draw or release vacuum. Seemed to be capped off. It may have been incorrect part for my car. With the old part put back in the trap doors don't draw vac and close but I assume they should on a cold morning. Is there a way to test operation on the CWM set up?
    Last edited by fgross2006; 10-22-2017 at 08:32 AM.

  6. #6

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    The cold weather modulator valves assures that the vacuum motors stay closed during WOT acceleration, when
    the ambient temperature is below the set-point of the valve. But they should not ever prevent the vacuum motors
    from closing. Think of them as a temperature-sensitive one-way check valve.

    To test the basic function of the valve, stick it in the fridge or freezer. Once it's chilled, connect a vacuum pump
    to the small port, and a vacuum gauge to the large port, and pull a vacuum. Then release the vacuum on the
    hand pump. When the valve is below it's rated temperature, it should continue to hold vacuum for 30 seconds.

    You could also submerge the valve in a glass of ice water with the vacuum hoses connected, then slowly warm
    the water to check the calibration. Done this way, you can actually hear it click when it changes state.

    Black modulator valve should switch at -6.7ºC / 20ºF
    Blue modulator valve should switch at 4.4ºC / 40ºF
    Green modulator valve should switch at 10ºC / 50ºF.
    Yellow modulator valve should switch at 18.3ºC / 65ºF

    Dunno about purple, but you need to be aware that parts that look similar can have very different function. Your
    purple valve may be a Thermal Vacuum Valve instead, and those come in both normally closed and normally open
    flavors. For example, my '85 Vert has one of these on the passenger side of the air cleaner, to control the exhaust
    flapper valve. It's yellow, and it's open when cold, opposite what a CWM would be.

    The bi-metal sensor should begin to bleed vacuum at the following temperatures, according to color code:
    Brown - not more than 24ºC / 75ºF
    Black or Pink - not more than 32.2ºC / 90ºF
    Blue, Yellow, or Green - not more than 40.5ºC / 105ºF

    (For temperatures with multiple color codes, the different colors denote different vacuum bleed rates when the
    bi-metal valve is open.)
    Last edited by JACook; 10-23-2017 at 04:39 PM.
    Cheers,
    Jeff Cook

    '85 GT Hatch, 5-speed T-Top, Eibachs, Konis, & ARE 5-Spokes ... '85 GT Vert, CFI/AOD, all factory...
    '79 Fairmont StaWag, 5.0, 62K original miles ... '04 Azure Blue 40th Anny Mach 1, 37K original miles...
    2012 F150 S-Crew 4x4 5.0 "Blue Coyote"... 65 coupe, 289 auto, Pony interior ... '67 coupe 6-cyl 4-speed ...
    '68 Vert, Mexican block 307 4-speed... '71 Datsun 510 ...
    And a 1-of-328 Deep Blue Pearl 2003 Marauder 4.6 DOHC, J-Mod, 4.10s and Lidio tune

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JACook View Post
    The cold weather modulator valves assures that the vacuum motors stay closed during WOT acceleration, when
    the ambient temperature is below the set-point of the valve. But they should not ever prevent the vacuum motors
    from closing. Think of them as a temperature-sensitive one-way check valve.

    To test the basic function of the valve, stick it in the fridge or freezer. Once it's chilled, connect a vacuum pump
    to the small port, and a vacuum gauge to the large port, and pull a vacuum. Then release the vacuum on the
    hand pump. When the valve is below it's rated temperature, it should continue to hold vacuum for 30 seconds.

    You could also submerge the valve in a glass of ice water with the vacuum hoses connected, then slowly warm
    the water to check the calibration. Done this way, you can actually hear it click when it changes state.

    Black modulator valve should switch at -6.7ºC / 20ºF
    Blue modulator valve should switch at 4.4ºC / 40ºF
    Green modulator valve should switch at 10ºC / 50ºF.
    Yellow modulator valve should switch at 18.3ºC / 65ºF

    Dunno about purple, but you need to be aware that parts that look similar can have very different function. Your
    purple valve may be a Thermal Vacuum Valve instead, and those come in both normally closed and normally open
    flavors. For example, my '85 Vert has one of these on the passenger side of the air cleaner, to control the exhaust
    flapper valve. It's yellow, and it's open when cold, opposite what a CWM would be.

    The bi-metal sensor should begin to bleed vacuum at the following temperatures, according to color code:
    Brown - not more than 24ºC / 75ºF
    Black or Pink - not more than 32.2ºC / 90ºF
    Blue, Yellow, or Green - not more than 40.5ºC / 105ºF

    (For temperatures with multiple color codes, the different colors denote different vacuum bleed rates when the
    bi-metal valve is open.)
    Thanks Jeff, as always your advice is awesome.

    I only used the purple one until I was able to find a green one.

    Just to ask, the bi metal sensor should be bleeding vacuum so it should not be allowing free flow at all times I assume? My old one allows air to pass but the newer one I put in seems to hold vacuum and not let it bleed off. I ordered a new bi-met sensor off ebay and I got the part number from my Ford 1984 Shop Manual. According to the book it says mine is a D7EE-9E607-AA and that's what Im waiting delivery of.

    Is there a way to test the bi-met for proper function? At what point should the vacuum release and allow the trap doors to open? The vacuum pulls them closed to allow hot air up the heat riser tubes so I assumed after the car warms up the vac should release and the trap doors should flip back to an open state to allow cold air up the cold air induction tubes.

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulators are repurposed PVS valves in four colors, with specifications like below in 85MUSTANGTGT's post

    The other CWM (TVS) colors for 3.3's are Purple and Green

    Quote Originally Posted by 85MUSTANGTGT View Post
    Something you might look for is an emission diagnosis manual for your year. I just snagged this one off eBay for my '85, came in the mail today. Have only flipped through it, but lots of info and component descriptions.







    Something to consider.
    all VECI Valves are "somehow" coded by Ford part number, color for vacuum, pressure or delay time but direction requires a test.

    Fords charts are pretty good, but sometimes, the data is specfic to year, and a 1985 valve issue might be diametrically opposed to a previous 1984 issue.

    Proof is 1BADI6's table below via member here, mrriggs

    It has one set of data for 1972 to 1977 Fords, and there is another appended version for 1985 Fords. They can both be right, but two valves with the same color code aren't always the same, because what year, car or vehicle line it came from governs what the part was, not the color code.

    eg 1 1983 to 1985 M code 4-bbl or 84-85 CFi Mustang, Delay Valve and Vacuum Delay Valve



    eg 2 data for 1972 to 1977 Fords



    eg 3 Non Ford trucks, like AMC Jeeps, Delay Valve and Vacuum Delay Valve



    That variance form the Factory has happened many times. As JACook says, even the right color code and engineering number "match" might not be enough to make a perfect match. Some are diodes, which have direction, and there is that date of issue, which has different specs.

    Often, the Green CWM is not the same part as the Red (or is it Pink) TVS ones. Often, the part you want isn't avaliable, or it is called something else, so people are forced to use non standard colors/shade or parts because they re used as Air Cleaner Cold Weather Modulator CWM. The Green part isn't a TVS. Same with Blue Black or Yellow ones. Stamped TVS, but actually called other names by Ford.

    Here is a near match to a Green CWM , a Red TVS, which won't have exactly the right leak pressure as per the 1985 Ford EVTM




    The other CWM ( or TVS) colors for 3.3's are Blue and Green

    For 4.9 Bix Sixes and other F-truck and E-Van vehicles, white and green

    Ratings ex Ford Truck Enthusiasts, and FSP member Luke76
    https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-build-39.html


    Note Well:

    Bubba's yellow CWM numbers in last column are transposed (around the wrong way) according to Fords 1985 EVTM .



    http://myzephyrs.com/vac_part_name.htm and everyone in parts list them as 9A995, or Air Cleaner TVS



    See http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...14#post1819914

    Quote Originally Posted by mrriggs
    I realize this is an old thread but it keeps coming up in my searches to make heads or tails of the vacuum system.

    I found this list of FORD vacuum delay valves which may be more relevant to our cars than the list previously linked to.



    The list was found here, http://www.1bad6t.com/Maverick/repai...ntrols_02.html

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    All this is something of a jumle sale, but it'll help.


    The other exact vacuum combinations are not listed from JACooks info.

    Carter White box Generic

    Dodge



    Dodge



    Early V8 1970 Ford 351, D0ZZ-9E607-A (D0ZZ-9E607-B,D0ZZ-9E607-C, different color codes, not the same)




    and your D7EE version



    The last two have the same color code, but a different part number, so that indicates a subtle difference.


    ACTS (air cleaner temperature sensor) #9E607.

    There are no specs for the middle ACTS in the first picture montage below


    D7EE-9E607-AA is this; same as Carter TS14

    Blue base color
    Red dot
    Black stripe




    There are many, many others.



    There are other Blue Red Black stripe items, but they are not the same year




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