Close



Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1

    Default Hose came off when I was driving

    I was just driving alot and had to stop at a stop sign and I just noticed passenger side smoke coming from. When i checked it out, the hose had came completely off and had water coming out of it. After it cooled down, I stuck it back on but have no idea what is going on or why it came off. I had pics but thet do not want to attach. It is the heater core hose going to the firewall. Left one. Came off clap amd all

  2. #2

    Default

    Put the hose bsck on and started car and it looks fine and sounds normak but what caused this is thr first place?

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    If the clamp is not positioned inside the barb on the heater core it's pretty easy for it to come off as the rubber shrinks over time.

    If it was inside the barb but the clamp was way over-tightened the rubber badly deteriorated and this will cause the same problem.

    Pressure in the lines is another possible cause. High RPM situations - especially with the thermostat still closed - create huge pressure there.


    Bright side -- at least it's not your heater core!


    I would go out on LMR and buy a flow restrictor. I'm told an old 12mm 3/8 drive socket in the line also works great.

    Having just done yet another heater core swap on an 86 with factory AC - OMG that job sucks! And I did it the "easy" way by cutting the box instead of purging the AC and dropping the box. What a PITA !!

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Duncannon PA
    Posts
    1,047

    Default

    It could be the heater core is blocked and causing excessive pressure causing the hose to blow off. Unlikely though.

  5. #5
    FEP Senior Member Dave9052's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Saint Clair MI 48079
    Posts
    641

    Default

    Is the larger heater hose the one that the flow restrictor goes into? Would a socket rust, or would the coolant prevent that?

  6. #6

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave9052 View Post
    Is the larger heater hose the one that the flow restrictor goes into? Would a socket rust, or would the coolant prevent that?
    Restrictor goes into the pressure (the water pump pressurizes the coolant inside the block and intake) hose (usually 3/4" inside diameter), from the intake, so that greatest pressure is inside the intake or the hose, instead of the heater core. I used a 1/2" plumbing copper end cap tapped into the elbow in my intake, with a 1/4" hole drilled in it.


    Quote Originally Posted by Mustangrider View Post
    I was just driving alot and had to stop at a stop sign and I just noticed passenger side smoke coming from. When i checked it out, the hose had came completely off and had water coming out of it. After it cooled down, I stuck it back on but have no idea what is going on or why it came off. I had pics but thet do not want to attach. It is the heater core hose going to the firewall. Left one. Came off clap amd all
    If you mean Left hose when looking under the hood, that goes to the water pump, so the core's coolant exit, and a lesser pressure issue. Probably just a loose clamp. Snug them all up once in a while, like when changing the oil or something.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 10-11-2017 at 08:42 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  7. #7
    FEP Senior Member Dave9052's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    Saint Clair MI 48079
    Posts
    641

    Default

    [QUOTE=Walking-Tall;1861712]Restrictor goes into the pressure (the water pump pressurizes the coolant inside the block and intake) hose (usually 3/4" inside diameter), from the intake, so that greatest pressure is inside the intake or the hose, instead of the heater core. I used a 1/2" plumbing copper end cap tapped into the elbow in my intake, with a 1/4" hole drilled in it.

    Thanks for info I will be doing that soon, I don"t want heater core problems!


    If you mean Left hose when looking under the hood, that goes to the water pump, so the core's coolant exit, and a lesser pressure issue. Probably just a loose clamp. Snug them all up once in a while, like when changing the oil or something.

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    On these ol cars the inlet hose diameter is the larger one. It necks down in the metal line before it actually gets to the heater core.

    lots of approaches to restrict. I used a SSP restrictor from LMR. The hole size in it is somewhere between 1/4 and 3/8" but it's round. A square hole flows about double a round one for what it's worth.

    lots of the old GM cars had an H at the heater core and a vacuum controlled servo that would cut off the heater core inlet in the summer. It actually a pretty good idea.

    take a look at your water pump pulley strategy. If the crank pulley is significantly larger than your water pump pulley you may be majorly overdriving your pump causing extra pressure. A higher flow pump design will usually restrict the heater core lines to help avoid over pressurizing. A stock pump being overdriven won't have that.

    I've seen guys also go to a higher pressure (19 lb +) radiator cap on a car that's near its overheating point due to mods. That's too much pressure for the heater core long term. A better option is to go with a 3 row copper/brass radiator or a newer radiator like the FB-169. Something that's designed for cooling a lot of horsepower.

    Ive blown several heater cores over the years before I spent time researching ways to avoid it. They suck to change on AC cars.

    These days I run my motor all turned up on timing. I use a restrictor on the heater core hose albeit is bypassed except when heat as critical due to prior damage I haven't fixed yet. I run a frostbite FB169 radiator and underdrive pulleys. That yielded too slow of a pump on hot days so I sourced 93 cobra stock waterpump replacement pulley made by summit to get my water pump back to around 1:1 and get to using of an off the shelf 93 Cobra belt.

    I find the underdrive crank pulley is critical to keep my power steering fluid from boiling over everywhere on hot high RPM days. That's even with a trans cooler put in where the metal loop was. That's what I get for running a Typhoon with headers and shifting at 6100-6250 all the time.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •