Have a grind going into 2nd gear, all else is great with the tranny, do I need a full rebuild kit or is there a smaller kit I can buy?
Have a grind going into 2nd gear, all else is great with the tranny, do I need a full rebuild kit or is there a smaller kit I can buy?
If it's a world class t5, get a kit like this:
http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/it...32/3531905.htm
and also pick up a steel bearing retainer:
https://www.astroperformance.com/pro...-mustang-5-0l/
Cale
Depends on how bad and long it's been grinding. You may need a new 2nd gear and 1/2 synchro hub as well.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mgr-1352027008r
Don't forget to order input bearing shims and learn the proper process to reassemble a T5 in regards to endplay adjustment. Seen too many T5s trashed because of people swapping parts and not really knowing what they are doing.
Last edited by Zap's 85 GT; 10-08-2017 at 04:30 PM.
Black 1985 GT: 408w, in the 6's in the 1/8 mile
Bimini Blue 1988 LX 5.0 Coupe 5-speed, Hellion turbo, zero options
Grabber Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1: 351c, toploader
Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI
One piece steel bearing retainer makes a big difference on strength.
When you apply (relatively large amounts of torque) a T5 will tend to cause distortion/deflect at the bearing retainer. Any movement here will mess up the gear mesh geometry under load -- a great way to trash gears.
I love AstroPerformance. Always had great service and parts.
1986 Ford Mustang GT-
Not much stock stuff left
347 NA power, CNC ported heads, Extrude honed Trick Flow Intake, Custom Cam
Suspension, custom k- member, TQ arm/pan hard rod... Much more
Restored and ready to race, made to go fast while cornering
1981 Mustang GT-
Old SCCA A-Sedan National Champ car
In the middle of rebuild
1986 LX Sedan-
Plans to be determined...
"Every day I learn how much I don't know"
Don't forget to order input bearing shims and learn the proper process to reassemble a T5 in regards to endplay adjustment. Seen too many T5s trashed because of people swapping parts and not really knowing what they are doing.
^^^Great advice here, I was lucky for years not understanding the importance of T-5 end play.
At least 4 of the ~13 T5's I've killed over the years have been due to endplay challenges. Now I simply don't touch them - I leave it to the pros.
My motor is mostly stock but I've never been shy about full power shifting. I somewhat blame the clutches I've ran at times due to cost being such a factor. High rear gears and wide rear tires probably also did not help ...... but a wounded T5 is a dead duck.
What I can tell you from extensive experience is that when you can hear the input shaft clatter with the clutch engauged and the car in neutral and car running you can either heed the warning and take the car back apart to fix it, or it will take itself apart catostrophically in the next 5 mi - 20K mi. I've found there is no real way to predict which one it's going to be. It always ends with getting out the old checkbook and writing a bigger check than it would have been if it hadn't went crunch.
Thy a lot guys, will probably need more info when I get it out of the car
Get a good clutch. Something with decently sized springs and friction materials for your power level.
Zoom, Hyde, McLeod, RAM, etc..... are way better than $15 Mcparts.
After doing it no no less than 11 times before getting told it was gone, i would not F with getting the flywheel surfaced. new duralast are cheap and WAY lighter than stock which makes a huge difference due to rotating mass. And they have a new ring gear on them which a reman starter will love while you are there. Or replace them one at a time and once it begins you will never get that nasty starter sound to go away....
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