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  1. #1

    Default Well, this Sucks

    Got my rear end, k-member, and gas tank sand blasted and coated with Rust Bullet (which I really like). I decided to go with Rust Bullet Top Coat and this is where the heartache begins.

    This is what $150 of jello looks like:
    Name:  rustbullettc.jpg
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    Much props to Amazon as I had ordered this back on 1 March. They "chatted" with me on-line and immediately refunded the money. I'm talking less than 5 minutes.

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Mikestang's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Firestone, CO
    Posts
    1,172

    Default

    Jeeze. At least u got a quick refund... Doesn't help the fact your ready for it now
    1986 Ford Mustang GT-

    Not much stock stuff left
    347 NA power, CNC ported heads, Extrude honed Trick Flow Intake, Custom Cam
    Suspension, custom k- member, TQ arm/pan hard rod... Much more
    Restored and ready to race, made to go fast while cornering

    1981 Mustang GT-

    Old SCCA A-Sedan National Champ car
    In the middle of rebuild

    1986 LX Sedan-

    Plans to be determined...

    "Every day I learn how much I don't know"

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Some NAPA stores still have a paint section. Martin Senior is a bit pricey but holds up well.

  4. #4

    Default

    I actually ran down to the local NAPA and got some paint. worked out pretty well and much cheaper than the Rust Bullet Topcoat.

  5. #5

    Default

    POR15 works well but dont get it on you
    1986 GT T Top- stock except for magnaflow cat back
    1990 LX vert- 500hp V3 and all that stuff
    2013 GT- usual bolt ons

  6. #6

    Default

    I've used POR15 before and Rust Bullet, is another product you don't want to get on your skin.

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