Close



Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1

    Default Exhaust manifold removal

    Asking this out of curiosity. Car is a 1984 LTD LX with the cfi 5.0 still in place and is almost entire factory. Looking to replace the exhaust manifolds here soon when I do my t5 swap. Mind you this car has 153k (or 53k, either one could be possible by the way it looks), and is 30+ years old so the bolts holding the manifolds on look like they won't come without a fight.

    In your guys experiences, what is the best way to go about removing these? Soak with rust penetrator then hand tools? Or heat and impact?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1984 LTD LX, 160k mile Explorer 5.0, Comp XE264HR-14 cam, Alex’s Parts springs on stock GT40 3 bar heads, Unported Explorer intake, 1 5/8 shorty headers, off-road H-Pipe, Spintech 9000 mufflers, Holley Terminator X Max, J-Mod 4R70W, Mustang 8.8 w/ 3.73s, Tubular front and rear control arms, front coilovers, Turbocoupe rear coil springs

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    Warm the car up. For added insurance - Ice each bolt heads with dry ice. Remove by attempting to tighten slightly then back it out.

  3. #3

    Default

    Get a six point deep socket. I've removed a ton of these. Doesn't really mater if you soak them or not if you ask me. Almost ways rusted around the nuts and break the stud right off. I get the best fitting socket and hammer it on. Then I hit it with a 1/2 socket wrench if it breaks easy, breaker bar if it doesn't. An impact is better, but good luck on getting that in there.

    Also get a set of wobbly extensions from harbor freight. That way you don't have to be 100% straight and can do it under the car instead of jammed in crevices.

    The trick is getting the rusty left over bolt out of the socket. I think I used a 1/2 bolt from the hardware store to replace the factory studs, if you want to put it back on after.

    T-5 clears the stock y pipe, just in case you were wondering.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  4. #4

    Default

    I broke off a couple studs when I did this. Used this tool from Harbor Freight to to remove the leftovers.
    Can't remember the name of it, can't find it on their site. Made by Pittsburgh.
    Lots of FREE F/Z info on my site.
    http://myzephyrs.com

  5. #5

    Default

    I agree that regardless of what you do, the studs may break from age and fatigue. :-P

    I suggest using MAPP gas with a hose, and getting each stud red hot. Do one at a time. Wear good mechanic gloves and a good coverall. Also, I suggest eye protection.



    http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomat...50KC/203391035
    BernzomaticBZ8250HTKC MAP-Pro Hose Torch Kit
    $69.97




    .

  6. #6

    Default

    If you're that sure the're going to snap,do like I do. I use a carbide grinder to remove just the heads of the bolts. I then slide the manifolds off the remaining part of the bolt leaving just the "studs" so to speak. Soak the studs where they enter the block and wait. Then place small vise-grips on the stud and work it back and forth with heat. This way you can see if the stud is twisting or not BEFORE it snaps. This is time consuming BUT easier than drilling them out.
    84 Cougar, 90 HO with 700DP, Edelbrock RPM intake, 1.7 RRs, shorty's and SS exh, T-5, KC clutch, Hurst pro billet, line loc, 8.8, 4.10s, suspension mods....blah, blah,blah.

    71 Comet, 289, Liberty TL, 9", 6.00s, 11.9x @ 112.... blah, blah, blah.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •