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  1. #1

    Default Door panel removal, dew wipe replacement

    I'm getting ready to remove the interior door panels on my 85 to replace interior dew wipes and also passenger door power lock actuator. Any helpful hints, tips tricks or advice? Should I buy one of those pry/clip tools and more replacement clips?

    Thanks
    Brant

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    It is fairly easy for the most part. Once you remove the screws holding the switches in and door handle on, it pops off easily using a cheap pry tool. More than likely you will break some of the push pins, so buying new ones is a good idea.

    To replace the power lock actuator, you will need to carefully drill out the rivet(s) that attach it to the outside of the door, remove a clip from the actuator rod and it comes right out IIRC. To install, either use the supplied rivets or you can use an appropriate size screw and nut.

    The interior dew wipes are a bit more complicated as they are stapled to the door panel. What I did was use a dremel to cut the ears off of the staples and pull the dew wipe off. When I reinstalled the new ones, I used small screws and nuts to attach it back on. A hole will need to be drilled through the dew wipe and board, but once installed and trimmed, it does not interfere with window operation.

    Here's a brief write up on how I did my dew wipes:
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...=1#post1828206
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  3. #3
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    You don't have to actually drill out the rivet for the mounting bracket. The door lock actuator snaps into the bracket. I can be a pain to remove the actuator from the bracket, but it can be done in the door. I pop the clip off the rod connecting the actuator to the door lock, remove the electrical pigtail from the actuator, and then I use a long screwdriver or pry bar to push down on the actuator to pop it loose from the bracket. There are two pins inside a rubber bushing that hold the actuator in the bracket. I push down on one side, usually the outside of the door pin first, pop it loose and then you can either slide the actuator pin off the bushing or just repeat and push it down out of the bracket. Once loose from the bracket you can remove the rod from the door lock mechanism.

    Installation is essentially reversed. Just make sure to hook the rod into the door lock mechanism before attaching to the bracket.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
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  4. #4
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    You don't have to actually drill out the rivet for the mounting bracket. The door lock actuator snaps into the bracket. I can be a pain to remove the actuator from the bracket, but it can be done in the door. I pop the clip off the rod connecting the actuator to the door lock, remove the electrical pigtail from the actuator, and then I use a long screwdriver or pry bar to push down on the actuator to pop it loose from the bracket. There are two pins inside a rubber bushing that hold the actuator in the bracket. I push down on one side, usually the outside of the door pin first, pop it loose and then you can either slide the actuator pin off the bushing or just repeat and push it down out of the bracket. Once loose from the bracket you can remove the rod from the door lock mechanism.

    Installation is essentially reversed. Just make sure to hook the rod into the door lock mechanism before attaching to the bracket.
    ^^^^^ This for the door lock actuator. I forgot about that as I only did one of mine shortly after I got the car. I did it the hard way as I didn't realize the actuator popped out of the bracket and I forgot again when I typed that.

    Thanks for the reminder Trey!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorbackGT View Post
    Should I buy one of those pry/clip tools ...?
    Yes. It makes it a lot easier to remove the plastic retainers without ruining them. It can be done with a screwdriver, but use two, one on each side of the retainer. Otherwise, they tend to bend rather than pull out.
    1985 GT owned since new

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    If your moisture barrier / insulation is mia or shot like most are, glueing a split open trash bag plastic to a cut open brown paper leaf bags works great. Just trim the openings and tape it to the door before you start.

    i haven't tried using foil backed bubble wrap for this yet. seems like it should work great. Anything to seal up the draft going down the road and kill some noise.

  7. #7

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    Thanks for all the tips guys. I am going to tackle it soon and hopefully all goes well. I certainly appreciate the info I get from this forum, straight from the horses mouth as they say.

    Brant

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    If your moisture barrier / insulation is mia or shot like most are, glueing a split open trash bag plastic to a cut open brown paper leaf bags works great. Just trim the openings and tape it to the door before you start.

    i haven't tried using foil backed bubble wrap for this yet. seems like it should work great. Anything to seal up the draft going down the road and kill some noise.
    I did the foil backed bubble wrap. Took a lot of work as it is just a little to thick. Not sure it was worth the effort.

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by steam_mill View Post
    I did the foil backed bubble wrap. Took a lot of work as it is just a little to thick. Not sure it was worth the effort.
    So a heavy mill vapor barrier would be just fine?

  10. #10
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Clear 6 mil plastic works just fine for a vapor/moisture barrier.

    You can buy that in the painting section of most big box DIY stores. If you buy the clear you can see everything behind the plastic to make it easier to trim and cut as needed when installing.

    Strip caulk or Butyl rope tape works really well for adhering the plastic to the door just as Ford did originally. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  11. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Clear 6 mil plastic works just fine for a vapor/moisture barrier.

    You can buy that in the painting section of most big box DIY stores. If you buy the clear you can see everything behind the plastic to make it easier to trim and cut as needed when installing.

    Strip caulk or Butyl rope tape works really well for adhering the plastic to the door just as Ford did originally. Good Luck!
    Ok, that's kinda what I was thinking. Thanks Trey

  12. #12
    FEP Member javdog's Avatar
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    Following this post, good info that I will need.

  13. #13

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    I got the new dew wipes on ok but one door is missing the rear armrest bracket nut that hangs on the door. Does anyone happen to know where to get one? Is this a general hardware item?

    Thanks

    Brant

  14. #14

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    There is this from LMR for the upper screw: https://lmr.com/item/LRS-24146A/79-8...-Arm-Rest-Clip

    And this one for the lower screws from Fox: http://www.foxresto.com/1981-86-Must...-p/3381002.htm
    1985 GT owned since new

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by swearint View Post
    There is this from LMR for the upper screw: https://lmr.com/item/LRS-24146A/79-8...-Arm-Rest-Clip

    And this one for the lower screws from Fox: http://www.foxresto.com/1981-86-Must...-p/3381002.htm
    0?

    OMG! $20? I wonder what it will be with shipping. Damn man, that's some mark up. Hey thanks for finding that though, I'll have to do some thinking on that.

    The exterior door handle on drivers door is real loose and just kinda flops, is this fixable or do I need a new handle?

    Ok, I looked at the handle inside the door and the handle moves up and down the rod about an inch before it actuates the door release, so is there supposed to be a clip to hold the handle tight to the rod?

    Thanks
    Brant
    Last edited by RazorbackGT; 10-04-2017 at 06:07 PM.

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by RazorbackGT View Post
    0?

    OMG! $20? I wonder what it will be with shipping. Damn man, that's some mark up. Hey thanks for finding that though, I'll have to do some thinking on that.

    The exterior door handle on drivers door is real loose and just kinda flops, is this fixable or do I need a new handle?

    Ok, I looked at the handle inside the door and the handle moves up and down the rod about an inch before it actuates the door release, so is there supposed to be a clip to hold the handle tight to the rod?

    Thanks
    Brant
    Well I found the armrest clip nut on Ebay for 12.50 with free shipping so after seeing the $20 price tag I didn't feel AS bad anyway I needed it.


    Now does anyone know if this is the piece that connects the exterior handle to the latch rod inside the door? Mine is just loose sliding up and down till it unlatches the door.
    Last edited by RazorbackGT; 10-06-2017 at 10:19 AM.

  17. #17
    FEP Power Member
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    I looped a zip-tie around the latch rod to prevent it from sliding out, it worked perfectly.
    Original Member of 'The Anti-Cowl Hood Club' and 'The Ten-Hole Mafia'.

  18. #18
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    This is what the part should look like

    Name:  Lock Rod clip.JPG
Views: 156
Size:  17.5 KB

    http://www.foxresto.com/1979-93-Door...-p/3379018.htm
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  19. #19

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    Pics of the dew wipe surgery?
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  20. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by ZephyrEFI View Post
    Pics of the dew wipe surgery?
    The old dew wipes were dry rotted and cracked. The wife complained about them when she put her arm on top of the door so I ordered the new ones from LMR. After removing the armrest, switch trim pieces and door handle trim, the door panel came off easily starting from the bottom and pulling out and then up. Now getting the old staples out was the hardest part. I used a flat blade screwdriver to bend the ears up and worked them out with needle nose pliers.
    The new dew wipes fit perfectly. I pre drilled the holes for the new screws and had them on in less than 10 minutes. I reinstalled door panel, hardest part was fishing door lock up through the panel, and reinstalled trim pieces and armrest.
    I did the same thing on drivers door but found I was missing rear clip nut for armrest. I have one ordered so while I am waiting I thought I would see if I could take the slop or looseness out of the exterior door handle. Seems to be a clip missing on the inside of the door where the latch rod goes through the hole in the handle.
    So all in all it was an easy job and the new dew wipes look 100% better.
    Thanks everyone for your info and advice.

    Brant

  21. #21

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    Thanks! Nice job!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  22. #22

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    This is what the part should look like

    Name:  Lock Rod clip.JPG
Views: 156
Size:  17.5 KB

    http://www.foxresto.com/1979-93-Door...-p/3379018.htm
    OK, I ordered this clip, I don't see how it works but I guess I'll figure it out. If worst comes to worst I can always remove passenger side door panel and take a gander.
    I posted a link to the video of the inside of my door and show me slowly working handle to give you an better idea of what I'm talking about.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gYIY...ature=youtu.be
    Last edited by RazorbackGT; 10-08-2017 at 08:02 PM.

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