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  1. #26
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Sorry, none of that matters and I never said it was easy.
    It sure as Hell does matter when YOU are the one footing the bill to reproduce these parts!
    Last edited by vintageracer; 10-21-2017 at 11:34 AM.
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually

    I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!

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  2. #27
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    My tailight reproduction effort is taking the "Daniel Carpenter" method to get my tailight lens product to market.

    My lenses will be "Close" and not exact!

    Why?

    Originals lenses are a 2 part lenses with a upper yellow lens and a lower red lens glued together with a seam in the middle. After purchasing & BREAKING 8-10 original lenses trying to separate the 2 individual lenses to get 2 good lens (1 red & 1 yelow) from which to make molds I have failed. I attempted to make 2 molds (1 red & 1 yellow) for the exact parts and could never get a good enough upper yellow lens from which to make a good mold.

    Solution?

    Make a single mold of the complete lens and mold the whole damn tailight lens in red. That's what the third mold is and that's what I am going into production with. The lens is identical to the original lens with one BIG exception. The lens is TOTALLY RED instead of red and yellow as per the original lenses.

    Is this a problem? Apparently not as I now have over 50 pre-orders for lenses now that I have announced how and when they will be produced.

    Are the tailight lenses I am making an exact reproduction? NO! Will they mount in the original location just like originals? YES! Will they function like original tailight lenses? YES! Does the group of owners of this type of trailer seem to care that they are not "EXACT" reproductions? NO! They are extremely happy that somebody decided to take on this project after everyone in this group that owns these types of trailers have complained for years about the fact that their original lenses are broken, cracked or missing!

    Another gentleman produced another total tailight assembly replacement solution and has had moderate success selling these replacements. Quite frankly in my opinion his product is a much better way to go HOWEVER with these trailer's enjoying a renaissance in desirability and becoming collectible my option is "closer" to original than the other gentleman's available option and that is appealing to many of the trailer owner's.

    Price?

    It all boils down to price! Trailer owner's are CHAEP just like Foureye Mustang owner's. I am selling the lenses for $79.00/pair delivered in the lower 48 Continental United States. I still have to sell a Hell of a lot more to sell than I have pre-orders to break even to at this point so we'll have to see if this was a good effort or just another DONATION to the car/trailer hobby!

    If it was easy EVERYONE would do it!
    Last edited by vintageracer; 10-21-2017 at 11:32 AM.
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually

    I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!

    www.musclecardeals.com


  3. #28
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vintageracer View Post
    My tailight reproduction effort is taking the "Daniel Carpenter" method to get my tailight lens product to market.

    My lenses will be "Close" and not exact!

    Why?

    Originals lenses are a 2 part lenses with a upper yellow lens and a lower red lens glued together with a seam in the middle. After purchasing & BREAKING 8-10 original lenses trying to separate the 2 individual lenses to get 2 good lens (1 red & 1 yelow) from which to make molds I have failed. I attempted to make 2 molds (1 red & 1 yellow) for the exact parts and could never get a good enough upper yellow lens from which to make a good mold.

    Solution?

    Make a single mold of the complete lens and mold the whole damn tailight lens in red. That's what the third mold is and that's what I am going into production with. The lens is identical to the original lens with one BIG exception. The lens is TOTALLY RED instead of red and yellow as per the original lenses.

    Is this a problem? Apparently not as I now have over 50 pre-orders for lenses now that I have announced how and when they will be produced.

    Are the tailight lenses I am making an exact reproduction? NO! Will they mount in the original location just like originals? YES! Will they function like original tailight lenses? YES! Does the group of owners of this type of trailer seem to care that they are not "EXACT" reproductions? NO! They are extremely happy that somebody decided to take on this project after everyone in this group that owns these types of trailers have complained for years about the fact that their original lenses are broken, cracked or missing!

    Another gentleman produced another total tailight assembly replacement solution and has had moderate success selling these replacements. Quite frankly in my opinion his product is a much better way to go HOWEVER with these trailer's enjoying a renaissance in desirability and becoming collectible my option is "closer" to original than the other gentleman's available option and that is appealing to many of the trailer owner's.

    Price?

    It all boils down to price! Trailer owner's are CHAEP just like Foureye Mustang owner's. I am selling the lenses for $79.00/pair delivered in the lower 48 Continental United States. I still have to sell a Hell of a lot more to sell than I have pre-orders to break even to at this point so we'll have to see if this was a good effort or just another DONATION to the car/trailer hobby!

    If it was easy EVERYONE would do it!
    That's a quite a wordy explanation for selling resto parts that are not original looking or otherwise substandard. Not offering an opinion per se on your resto part but you are justifying Daniel Carpenter selling a body side molding kit that not only isn't a match to the front and rear bumper covers, but also have blatant mismatched parts within the kit itself.

    No matter how you slice it, this body side molding kit is a huge disappointment. If uniformity on all the 10 pieces this kit comes with isn't possible, they shouldn't have sold the kit.

  4. #29
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fgross2006 View Post
    No matter how you slice it, this body side molding kit is a huge disappointment. If uniformity on all the 10 pieces this kit comes with isn't possible, they shouldn't have sold the kit.
    So when are YOU stepping up and reproducing YOUR vision of Foxbody body side moldings?
    Mike
    Remember, "Drive Fast, Turn Heads, Break Hearts!"

    1995 Ford Powerstroke F350 "Centurion" STRETCHED Crew Cab Dually

    I like "Cut & Coach Built" vehicles!

    www.musclecardeals.com


  5. #30
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vintageracer View Post
    So when are YOU stepping up and reproducing YOUR vision of Foxbody body side moldings?
    I started this thread to warn others that the new door molding kit from Daniel Carpenter is far from perfect and in fact has obvious flaws.

    You want to change the conversation to be about how hard it is to make repro parts. Sorry Im not in the least bit interested. Im a consumer as are most here in this forum. I spent thousands on my 84 Vert so I don't meet the stereotype of a "cheap foureyed owner"

    I actually have the audacity to expect that when I buy something that it will at the very least be a reasonable facsimile of the original part. Receiving a 10 pc kit that has 2 pieces with squared edges and 8 pcs with round I kinda have a good reason to not only complain, but to post a warning to others that this kit may not meet their expectations.

    but good luck on your project. Best of luck

  6. #31

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    Have you tried contacting Daniel Carpenter and discussing the issue with them?

  7. #32
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by N2MUSTANGS View Post
    Have you tried contacting Daniel Carpenter and discussing the issue with them?
    Daniel Carpenter only deals with licensed resellers. Not consumers But Im gonna try to open up channels through LMR and FMR

  8. #33

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    Quote Originally Posted by N2MUSTANGS View Post
    Have you tried contacting Daniel Carpenter and discussing the issue with them?
    You don't buy anything from them so therefore there is no customer support. They do try really hard to make stuff in the US but the smaller demand stuff they do outsource due to simple economics as mentioned above. I live 5 minutes from there and they have a huge factory that employs a lot of people. The make all sorts of parts and every one is for a Ford of some year. I like them and I am not necessarily blaming them. My car club has had our Christmas party at their facility for the past 4 years or more. I think they still think the early Fox cars are junk but they had so many people contact them about this molding they said let's try. But I guarantee it's all Chinese made and I still am standing by what I have said at least 4 times in this thread. I think some of the molding is getting put in the machine upside down. There is no other explanation for some of the moldings to appear to be upside down. There is only one shape of molding that they paid to make so how come the same moldings don't match up with each other? The only other option is if you believe they somehow paid to develop two different profiles of molding for the same car. If it's not upside down it is just simply AWFUL quality control.
    Last edited by homer302; 10-22-2017 at 06:39 PM.

  9. #34
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    You don't buy anything from them so therefore there is no customer support. They do try really hard to make stuff in the US but the smaller demand stuff they do outsource due to simple economics as mentioned above. I live 5 minutes from there and they have a huge factory that employs a lot of people. The make all sorts of parts and every one is for a Ford of some year. I like them and I am not necessarily blaming them. My car club has had our Christmas party at their facility for the past 4 years or more. I think they still think the early Fox cars are junk but they had so many people contact them about this molding they said let's try. But I guarantee it's all Chinese made and I still am standing by what I have said at least 4 times in this thread. I think some of the molding is getting put in the machine upside down. There is no other explanation for some of the moldings to appear to be upside down. There is only one shape of molding that they paid to make so how come the same moldings don't match up with each other? The only other option is if you believe they somehow paid to develop two different profiles of molding for the same car. If it's not upside down it is just simply AWFUL quality control.
    upside down is not an issue. All the rounded edge moldings are rounded on both sides. All squared edge moldings are squared on both sides.

  10. #35
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    Hi all, I just got my car back from the shop, they just installed the repro set of body side moldings,

    I have an opposite opinion to the OP regarding the front (bumper to fender) moldings, mine are not round, they have the squared off edge and match pretty decently with the front bumper cover squared off edge. Perhaps the OP got the wrong moldings (the front corner moldings are pretty much the same size as the front of rear fender moldings - the ones behind the door moldings).

    Lenght wise, they all have the correct length except for my right door molding, which is about 0.75 cm short (which my guess is that if you leave them in the sun or heat them a little bit and stretch them before installation, they will fit in nicely.

    Here are pics of the car, overall I am very satisfied with how they look
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  11. #36
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    Rest of the car...
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  12. #37
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    I received a phone call today from the owner at FMR.com in response to my complaint to them 2 weeks ago.

    What seems to have happened here is that the front and rear quarter moldings that butt up to the front and rear bumper covers have squared chamfered edges to match the squared edges on the bumper covers.

    The door moldings and the wheel well moldings on left and right to the doors have rounded edges. According to the owner at FMR this was Ford original design. The new repros are correct replicas he says. The outer quarters are supposed to be squared and the doors and inner quarters are supposed to be rounded.

    On my car, a squared edged quarter molding was put next the door on both sides creating a mismatch to the rounded door molding edges that is hard on the eyes. In other words, I have 2 pieces on each side that need to be flip flopped. FMR is blaming the body shop, the body shop insists there was no other way to arrange the parts he was given and I'm stuck in the middle. I do see that if I rearrange 2 pieces on each side it will create better symmetry.

    Its looking like I will have to pull the 4 pieces and flip flop them myself. Not happy about it but I may have to do it myself to get the same effect you have on your car.

    Next question is how can I remove these pieces without damaging them or craking the paint on the moldings?

    The last thing is does anybody on this forum have ORIGINAL body side moldings on an 79-84 in good enough condition to take pics and post them to compare to Blueandsilver's pics?

    I wanna see if the original stock parts had rounded profiles on the doors and squared profiles on the front and rear quarters as FMR claims.
    Last edited by fgross2006; 11-06-2017 at 08:31 PM.

  13. #38
    FEP Super Member Gemini1999's Avatar
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    Have a look at those NOS door molding. Looking at the photos, it does look like on side has a rounded edge and the other is more angular with a sharper edge.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-For...VZARXX&vxp=mtr
    Bryan

    1983 Mustang GLX Convertible

  14. #39
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    I have a 79 pace car in the garage with original paint and moulding. I can post some pics this evening when I get home, if no one has done so yet.

  15. #40
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    I had the original moldings previously on my car, the "corner moldings" are thicker than the rest, and do have the square upper section. The inner moldings have rounder edges, though mine were a bit flatter than the repro moldings. The OEM moldings have a different color, they are satin black. the repros are not painted (mine were painted with a more matte black color which is not the OE finish)

    The shop that installed my moldings did the same mistake they did on yours, they installed the front corner moldings behind the doors (front of rear quarter). it was very noticeable that they were installed wrong. I made them fix their mistake.

    It shouldn'tīt be very difficult to remove them using a guitar string. Since the repro moldings do not have the metal backing they should not warp.

  16. #41
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blueandsilver View Post
    I had the original moldings previously on my car, the "corner moldings" are thicker than the rest, and do have the square upper section. The inner moldings have rounder edges, though mine were a bit flatter than the repro moldings. The OEM moldings have a different color, they are satin black. the repros are not painted (mine were painted with a more matte black color which is not the OE finish)

    The shop that installed my moldings did the same mistake they did on yours, they installed the front corner moldings behind the doors (front of rear quarter). it was very noticeable that they were installed wrong. I made them fix their mistake.

    It shouldn'tīt be very difficult to remove them using a guitar string. Since the repro moldings do not have the metal backing they should not warp.
    It looks like Im gonna have to do it myself. The body shop that did my car did a nice job overall but the tech that did the job didn't pay attention to details and the car had to go back last week for 3 days. The guy doesn't want to take it back for this now.

    Im good with detailed work I just don't want to scratch the paint on the car or crack the paint on the moldings. I suppose a thin wire heated with a heat gun slightly would help me to release the double sided tape.

  17. #42
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    So if and I stress the if part the mouldings are contoured correctly then maybe they need to mark the backside of each moulding piece and a diagram on paper included to explain which way and where each piece goes.

  18. #43
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    So if and I stress the if part the mouldings are contoured correctly then maybe they need to mark the backside of each moulding piece and a diagram on paper included to explain which way and where each piece goes.
    According to Matt at FMR the kit comes with instructions on correct placement but I don't recall seeing that when I opened the box. I just remember seeing instructions on procedure to prep for paint.

    My body shop guy says there was no other way to put them on but that's clearly not correct. He doesn't want the headache of removing them and not scratching paint.

    I may not have skills to weld and bondo but I am very careful when it comes to detail and I would have spotted the difference in the contours of these pieces and layed them out correct or called into FMR for further instruction before just winging it.

    All in all, between the cost of body work and paint, restoration of the rims, and all the parts I needed to buy for this project both new and used I spent around 6000 so to have this eyesore that I have to correct and I have to risk scratching paint really does piss me off.

    The body shop should have spotted the distinction between the edge contours and also FMR and Daniel Carpenter should have provided much clearly documentation on placement. So after $6000 spent on exterior resto I am the guy that has to fix this. Really sucks.

  19. #44
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I don't have a good set to take pictures of right now and the weather here is terrible right now, so . . .

    Here is a picture of a pair of OEM moldings side by side that show the differences between the moldings next to the bumper covers and the between the door moldings. I think you can see the differences in the shapes and that they appear to be very similar in shape to the reproductions. I do not have a set of the repro moldings at this time for comparison, but they look pretty close to me from what I have seen up to this point.

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    Last edited by wraithracing; 11-08-2017 at 10:24 PM.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
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  20. #45
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by blueandsilver View Post
    I had the original moldings previously on my car, the "corner moldings" are thicker than the rest, and do have the square upper section. The inner moldings have rounder edges, though mine were a bit flatter than the repro moldings. The OEM moldings have a different color, they are satin black. the repros are not painted (mine were painted with a more matte black color which is not the OE finish)

    The shop that installed my moldings did the same mistake they did on yours, they installed the front corner moldings behind the doors (front of rear quarter). it was very noticeable that they were installed wrong. I made them fix their mistake.

    It shouldn'tīt be very difficult to remove them using a guitar string. Since the repro moldings do not have the metal backing they should not warp.
    can you ask your body shop how they removed the moldings without damaging the paint on the car and the paint on the moldings? I have to do this myself since my body shop wont accept responsibility for this and do it for me as they should.

  21. #46
    FEP Power Member plumkrazy's Avatar
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    here was my ebay auction that has some pictures.
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-79-80-8...g/272907600790
    1 of 3 1985 Silver Grand Prix Capr's
    My first New car and still own 1986 Capri

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