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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default Daniel Carpenter body side molding kit for 79-84

    I just got my car back from the body shop, I used the new body side door molding kit and from a distance it looks nice, its a mismatch to the original moldings that are pre molded into the front and rear bumper covers.

    The original has a squared shape while the new repros have rounded edges. Its a bit of a let down. Especially when this kit cost $350.

    LMR also advertises this kit as being steel backed. they aren't.

  2. #2

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    I picked up some from Fox Resto I hadn't opened it yet
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  3. #3
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snkchmr View Post
    I picked up some from Fox Resto I hadn't opened it yet

    I got mine from Fox resto too because LMR didn't have them available in the early summer when I needed them. Its the same kit, they all get from Daniel Carpenter. Its just odd that LMR says the kit is steel backed and its not.

    I don't understand why its so difficult for them to make a mold that matches the originals. Its like they didn't even try.

  4. #4

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    Ok will open mine after lunch & see what I think.
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  5. #5
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Sharp, crisp edges in a casting or molding require higher quality molds and precision. They are more expensive to make and more expensive to keep in good shape. Unfortunately when producing relatively low numbers of product this can just be cost prohibitive. This is but one reason why parts such as this are not exact matches or replicas of the original parts. This is unfortunate and disappointing, but at least we have an option at this time. Although not perfect, they are still better than nothing IMHO.
    Last edited by wraithracing; 09-26-2017 at 09:43 PM.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

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  6. #6

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    I didn't think they looked that bad IMHO maybe you have a better eye than I do
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  7. #7
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by snkchmr View Post
    I didn't think they looked that bad IMHO maybe you have a better eye than I do
    Here's what mine look like on the car. that's a noticeable difference. And that's a horrible reproduction if you ask me,

    I posted a review on LMR.com and they did approve the review but not my photo. That's the kind of photo that would dissuade people from buying the kit.

    Attachment 115832

  8. #8
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    wow..that aint even close..i would be disappointed to.ill be in the market soon for 85-86 gt moldings and have no clue on which ones are the closest to o.e.m.pretty crappy that lmr didnt post your pic either..that aint right.to me,thats admitting they know they are not close to be original..
    Last edited by kfxmatt; 09-27-2017 at 09:58 AM.

  9. #9

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    Wow......I wouldn't buy that.way off.

  10. #10
    FEP Power Member plumkrazy's Avatar
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    Did you paint the moldings? I'm looking in to buying the 85/86 set also
    1 of 3 1985 Silver Grand Prix Capr's
    My first New car and still own 1986 Capri

  11. #11
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by plumkrazy View Post
    Did you paint the moldings? I'm looking in to buying the 85/86 set also
    I bought the 85/86 door moldings for my Road Racer. There are similar profile issues with those moldings too. Close to the OEM pieces, but again not exact.

    The moldings do come in a charcoal color, but I painted mine to make sure that everything matched and hopefully will hold up longer in terms of color and durability.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
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    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
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  12. #12
    FEP Power Member Broncojunkie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fgross2006 View Post
    Here's what mine look like on the car. that's a noticeable difference. And that's a horrible reproduction if you ask me,

    I posted a review on LMR.com and they did approve the review but not my photo. That's the kind of photo that would dissuade people from buying the kit.

    Attachment 115832
    Sorry if this is a dumb question, but those wouldn't happen to be on upside down, would they? I'm not even sure it matters. I'm not standing in front of my cars right now and I've got a few pieces lying around from different models.

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Broncojunkie View Post
    Sorry if this is a dumb question, but those wouldn't happen to be on upside down, would they? I'm not even sure it matters. I'm not standing in front of my cars right now and I've got a few pieces lying around from different models.
    Not possible to place them upside down, they come pre cut and have the curves for the wheel wells already there.

    I took another look and its bad. The two rear quarter panel pieces that but up against the rear bumper cover molding is in fact squared out. The rest of the set is all rounded out. Makes no logical sense to do this and im feeling really burned.

    Attachment 115839

    Attachment 115840

  14. #14
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    I have my 81 at the shop getting these moldings installed. I´ll post pics of them installed. since my car is black it will be less noticeable than yours.

    At this point, finding original moldings that are not shrunken or warped is impossible, so even if they are not perfect, for me as long as they are straight and not short they will look better than my O.E. ones...

  15. #15

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    Man.......they were so close. Little more effort and they could of been perfect.less'n the rounded edge and it would of been good.
    Last edited by chads84svo; 09-27-2017 at 07:56 PM.

  16. #16
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    About all I can suggest if these are the only parts available is to flex bumper fill and feather the differences out over a long distance. Bummer!

  17. #17
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    This is not an option in all cases, but generally the moldings at the bumpers don't curl or roll up as often or as badly as the moldings between the wheels. If you have the OEM moldings at the bumpers then refurbish them so you don't have the mismatch and then use the reproduction moldings between the wheels. This will help to alleviate the shape differences being noticed by the majority of people IMHO. That is my plan with my 82 GT, and my 82 RS.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
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  18. #18
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    I'm happier with my decision to use original Ford moldings on my car. I scavenged as many as I could come by and was able to select the best of the lot to make a pretty decent complete set. When the complete reproduction set came available, I considered going that route instead as the old ones will need painting to make them perfect. This info has made me stick to using what I have.

    However, if I had to go with the repops, I'd follow Treys suggestion.

  19. #19
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    I agree that is you have decent OEM stuff that is always the better way to go when possible. I have several OEM and even NOS small pieces. The doors are my biggest issue as most are too beat up to be saved or have shrunk enough that they look horrible. When that is the case, then the Reproductions are the only way to go for me. To alleviate the mismatch, then I will just use all 6 pieces between the wheels so its not so noticeable.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  20. #20
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    I just got the complete set installed on my 81 Mustang, I will post a pic later, I think they look very nice but have to take a detailed look at the corner moldings to see if there´s too much difference.

    My OEM ones were either a bit warped or a bit shrunken, so to me the replacement ones are good enough. My car is black though so the defects in the design are less noticeable

  21. #21

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    Why did they even spend the effort to make those? They are just so far off. I don't get it. I mean I understand what Trey is saying but does it really cost that much more to make a correct mold versus a non correct one? The profile is not even similar and obviously we are all stuck with the profile that is on the bumpers.
    Last edited by homer302; 10-16-2017 at 08:19 PM.

  22. #22
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Does it really cost that much more to make a correct mold versus a non correct one?
    YES!

    There is no metal backing in this new part, the profile is different and you can bet your balls the molding polymer material is different which effects just about everything else when it comes to making a polymer part. All of these differences can go right back to the mold or the extrusion. Just because it is "Ford Approved" or what ever the Hell they call it does not mean Ford owned the rights to the mold or the extrusion. It might just be different because it has to be different due to copyright, trademark or patent issues. Don't know however it is possible.

    WHERE & HOW were the originals made? Injection molded? Extruded? Poured? How is Daniel Carpenter making them?

    You are making a lot of assumptions that this "Re-Engineering" process is easy. It is somewhat easy to get close. It can be damn hard and expensive to be exact. The process in which the originals were made might not even exist now. You can bet you a$$ that the original raw material plastic polymer no longer exists as the polymer manufacturer's have moved on to new and better materials and no longer make that original material OR it might just have something in it the causes cancer or is not Prop 65 compliant.

    Price point?

    Four Eye owner's are notoriously CHEAP and won't spend the money if the part is over $10. Daniel is a smart man and understands this. Close just might be good enough for this market. When you can still BUY an original low mileage Foxbody for 1/2 of what it costs to restore one I'd have to agree that "Close" is good enough for this bunch!

    I am currently "trying" to re-produce a tailight lens for another part of the transportation hobby. I am currently paying for my THIRD mold attempt trying to get an acceptable product to take to market and have yet to sell the first lens to a group where only 1800 trailer's were made. That's a total market of 3600 lenses IF all the trailers were still around AND they all once again needed tailight lenses. Up to this point all I have done is SPEND MONEY. Talk about STUPID!!!

    Reproducing a transportation part is a lot like trying to restore a Mustang to "Thoroughbred" class winner. The first 95% of the restoration is not that bad "Cost Wise". It's that last 5% to finish that will cost you 25% or MORE of the total project cost just to get your part to market! Can you then SELL that part at a price that RECOVERS YOUR TOTAL COSTS & allows you to make a PROFIT? In many situations the answer is NO and that's why a lot of parts that you think everyone would want and be easy to make NEVER GET MADE!

    Be happy your "Gittin What Ya Got"!!!!

    If it was "Easy" everyone would be "Doin It"!
    Last edited by vintageracer; 10-16-2017 at 10:18 PM.
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  23. #23

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    Sorry, none of that matters and I never said it was easy. If we are talking about a dew wipe or repro headliner, (which are also incorrect and very cheaply made by the way) I would have (and have not had) any issues. It's a dew wipe. I'm happy they make something even though they fit poorly. This part meets up with the bumper covers unfortunately and we have no way to modify the profile of a bumper cover. If the molding could be installed all the way around the car and it was off, I also would find that perfectly acceptable. It was a waste of time to make these if there was going to be no effort to make them a reasonable facsimile of a correct part.
    And since you are on your third attempt, it sounds like you very well understand the need for some parts to at least resemble an original one. I understand why one person above suggested it was on upside down. It does appear to be that way but since they are pre-cut, is it possible the 9 year-old Chinese kid is feeding the molding into the machine upside down? How would they know? Without being there it really looks like it would fit better if it was turned upside down.
    Last edited by homer302; 10-17-2017 at 02:04 PM.

  24. #24
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    We are in the early stages of foxbody restoration parts. Over time they will improve....ask any 1st gen enthusiast.

  25. #25
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by homer302 View Post
    Sorry, none of that matters and I never said it was easy. If we are talking about a dew wipe or repro headliner, (which are also incorrect and very cheaply made by the way) I would have (and have not had) any issues. It's a dew wipe. I'm happy they make something even though they fit poorly. This part meets up with the bumper covers unfortunately and we have no way to modify the profile of a bumper cover. If the molding could be installed all the way around the car and it was off, I also would find that perfectly acceptable. It was a waste of time to make these if there was going to be no effort to make them a reasonable facsimile of a correct part.
    And since you are on your third attempt, it sounds like you very well understand the need for some parts to at least resemble an original one. I understand why one person above suggested it was on upside down. It does appear to be that way but since they are pre-cut, is it possible the 9 year-old Chinese kid is feeding the molding into the machine upside down? How would they know? Without being there it really looks like it would fit better if it was turned upside down.
    I want to chime back in on this since I started this thread. It has been said that its easier to make rounded edges than squared ones when making molds. OK maybe, but the bigger issue here is that some of these pieces have rounded edges and some are squared. If they can make the 2 rear pieces with squared edges why not the whole kit? This reeks of crappy QC and since this kit cost me upwards of $360 I think I have a cause to complain to the Daniel carpenter company and demand an explanation as to why I received such a poorly manufactured kit for my resto job which could cause the effect of the car not being worthy to be in competitions.

    Just look at these pics and then tell me why its easier to make some of the edges round and some of them squared.

    The first pic is the front fender piece to the door piece. Both have rounded edges. The fender piece directly mismatched the front bumper cover.
    Name:  front edge of door to front fender.jpg
Views: 298
Size:  50.0 KB

    Second pic is rear bumper cover to the rear quarter behind the wheel well piece, both are squared. Not a 100% size match but a huge improvement from the front.
    Name:  rear bumper cover.jpg
Views: 300
Size:  56.4 KB

    Third pic is the rear edge of the door molding up against the front edge of the rear quarter panel molding in front of the wheel well. Door molding is rounded, rear quarter molding is squared. Upside down is not even a possibility since the round ones are round on both sides and the squared ones are likewise. I spent a lot of money on my body work and paint. The body side moldings are a huge part of the finished product and this burns like hell.
    Name:  rear wheel well to door edge.jpg
Views: 298
Size:  64.0 KB
    Last edited by fgross2006; 10-21-2017 at 08:26 AM.

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