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Thread: Setting Timing?

  1. #1

    Default Setting Timing?

    So, I was trying to set the timing just now. This is not something I've done much at all in my life. How easy is it to stab the distributor in a tooth off? I thought it went well when we did it, but when I went to set the timing today, when the 0 degrees mark would get near TDC, the engine would die. You want it around 10-14 degrees before, right? Is that below or above the pointer? I'm guessing above? This stupid balancer I got has the stupid numbers stamped into it, but you can't see them AT ALL with the timing light. Who the hell thought that was good enough? I was withholding judgement on that, but now I'm annoyed.

    Oh, and I should mention my compression is higher than stock an indeterminate amount (not much I don't think), and I'm currently running 91 octane. Any help would be great.

    And yes, I pulled out the spout connector. Engine combo in sig, running '93 Cobra computer, 24# injectors, 70mm MAF.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member
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    A few things you should keep in mind when setting the timing.
    Mark the harmonic balancer with white paint, white out or chalk before you start.
    Keep in mine that sometimes the balancer will spin on the rubber insert making it useless
    Remove and plug the vacuum advance from the distributor, or unplug the spout on newer cars.

    This should get you started. If you cannot get the timing right, you may have to pull the distributor. Just pull the cap off and mark you starting spot. Lift it about 1” and you should be able to feel it release and turn it slightly to re-engage it at the next tooth.

    On older cars, you can advance the timing until it pings under load and back off slightly from there. This is called timing by ear and the timing mark is not needed for this.
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  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member liv2roc's Avatar
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    I have a comp cam in mine but the only place it runs good is 32 degrees so I just think my balancer has spun so I just dont worry about it.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member mcb82gt's Avatar
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    clean the balancer and smear white paint or white out etc on it and wipe off while wet, so the white stays in the recessed marks. Makes it easier to see.
    Mike

    Now stang-less.

    88 Cougar 5.0

  5. #5

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    I usually just use sidewalk chalk. I mark up around the numbers and then wipe it off with a rag and it leaves the numbers and timing recesses white.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
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  6. #6
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    When i replaced my timing belt last week, the only time i used TDC mark was to align the sprockets, crank, dis.
    Timing is set using the BTC side of TDC. ATC is to the left of TDC (late timing).
    Used a permanent black Sharpie to mark TDC since the pulley is Ford Gray engine enamel.

    My engine liked 12° initial. Minimum to make engine idle normal. Any lower or higher, engine did not idle or sound right.
    Sort of like in hockey. No play plan moving over blue line toward goal, so they throw the puck in and go from there.
    Used the light initially, then went by ear and seat of pants for final set. Whatever engine liked within reason.
    Surely not at 6 like specs on valve cover. Engine would barely run.
    Everything was connected because that is the way it runs on the road. Why do they say to unplug things?

    Total timing is the max point when all advance is in play, shown on damper above say 2000 rpm or above.
    Initial via dist lock down point plus vacuum, mechanical, electronic, advance additions.

    Total timing, say above 3000 rpm, is off scale of most stock crank damper timing marks.
    The scale can be expanded past 30° BTC by measuring and marking.
    Measure TDC to 10 and transfer that measurement past the 30° BTC mark to get 40° BTC.
    Cut that in 1/2 to get a 35° BTC mark. Then the total timing can be seen in degrees for the record.

    Then took a ride with the good old Sears 244.2178 inductive timing light and dist. Z wrench to set total timing.
    Set, drive for a bit, reset distributor.
    Goal was max timing without knocking or light accel pecking on 87 RON normal driving and also under boost.
    Max tune with economy, torque, cruising drive ability for my type of daily driving. No bucking, flat spots.
    Drove most of the afternoon everywhere i normally drive, playing with settings, everything connected.
    Final set is advanced to max without knock, then retarded a few degrees for good measure.
    The carb was adjusted at the same time as needed.
    Later check at idle confirmed initial timing at 12-14 cant remember exactly. Total timing is what matters.
    Only two numbers matter to record for checking later- total timing and where the initial timing finally winds up.
    Did readjust a few times after that weeks and months later. Then not touched since= 10+ years.
    Have very good fuel economy, quick start, great driveability from idle to ???, steady idle vac quality and rpm.
    Of course engine mods change everything from stock, but new numbers will fall in eventually.

    Left of TDC mark is (retarded) ATC, right of TDC mark is (advanced timing) BTC
    Last edited by gr79; 10-02-2019 at 05:51 PM.

  7. #7

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    Thanks for the input. Timing has taken a backseat to the massive oil leak for the time being.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    yah bad timing....for an oil leak.
    better it showed up now than somewhere on the road

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by gr79 View Post
    yah bad timing....for an oil leak.
    better it showed up now than somewhere on the road
    No kidding! I'd much rather it happen now in the garage. From what I can tell, the engine doesn't seem to be hurt, but I won't know for sure until it's fixed and I can start it again.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

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