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  1. #1
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    Default AOD TV adjustment issue

    I just got my 84 LX convertible back from the body shop after it being in for the whole summer.

    Took it for my ride home and noticed a few issues that weren't there prior to body work being done but at the same time its not likely that spreading bondo would cause these issues.

    First, when I was about to pull out of the shops parking lot I heard and felt a loud thump, thump, thump what seemed to be coming from the rear end. I put it in park, slipped back into drive and it clunked once or twice but stopped. I drove out onto the road.

    Second; I notice that same clunking hearing and feeling it in the rear end whenever I took my foot off the gas. When i was on the highway and tried to coast, as soon as I let off the gas the clunking would slam the back of the car.

    Third; two times that day, after leaving the body shop the car wouldn't lock into PARK when I shifted to P. It started to roll and I had to shift hard to get it into park and make it stay.

    When driving applying the gas no such clunks at all. Only when removing my foot from the gas, or coasting.

    I had this rear end rebuilt 2 summers back. Swapping the original 7.5 for an 8.8 and used 3.55 gears. I replaced all moving parts in the thing. spider gears, clutch plates, axles, bearings, carrier pin, pinion flange. I used all Ford Racing parts except the axles are Yukons. Tooth mesh when checking with a blob of grease was perfect, backlash was at .010 dead center of the 8 to 12 tolerance. I drove this car daily for 2 years never had a ripple in the power train. Now after it sits for 3 months the power train has a clunk running through it? I dont get it.

    Would I be correct if I suspected they somehow messed the TV cable setting and its causing the AOD to have shift fits? I am certain the rear cant be shot and not just like that from 1 day on the road. If it wasn't built right it would failed sooner or at least had manifested clunks, noises and issues long ago.

    The body shop did send my car to their companion auto shop for a week to repair a fuel line issue I had and I suspect they messed up the tranny TV link settings. They were working right around the tranny when they did the fuel lines.

    Opinions, ideas, suggestions?

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    Sounds like a u-joint..

    If the TV cable were out of adjustment with no pressure, 4th gear would be gone in a matter of minutes and wouldn't be coming back easily.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Is it full of lube?

    any evidence this is your rearend?

    I remember very well when my 86GT was in the body shop getting redone the summer of 93 after extensive hail damage. I met a primer gray 86 Mustang south of town about 8 miles rolling at least 120 northbound. The sound - unmistakeable -- that was MY primer gray Mustang! I turned around and put the hammer down. When I got to the body shop one of the young punks that worked at the dealership side of the shop was just getting out of MY car.

    Would explain your problem!

  4. #4
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ourobos View Post
    Sounds like a u-joint..

    If the TV cable were out of adjustment with no pressure, 4th gear would be gone in a matter of minutes and wouldn't be coming back easily.
    Although I agree with Ourobos, the first check is the


    1. low order check done, and

    2. the high order adjustment with the fuel pressure gauge.



    What you are hearing is TV rod or cable "roll-out thump", which sounds like a tool box falling over in the trunk when coasting down to walking speeds. If its a cross joint or uni, it ampflifies any miss-adjusted "roll out thump" hugely.




    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Here's an example of both hooked up on a standard 84-85 Panther frame Fords at http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/u...&Number=886546.




    Most 5.0 CFi's came with Cruise Control/Speed Control, so the third cable in Capriman 86 and this Crownvic forum post is the Cruise cable.

    Using the stock Motorcraft 2150, Motorcraft Variable Venturi VV 7200 or Motorcraft CFi


    Accelerator

    TV

    and Cruise

    linkages duplicated to your Holley 2300 will solve everything.


    When you've gotten the linkage changed to FoMoCo spec,

    1. Set the low order Ford adjustmnets for the 1980 to 1985 rod operated TV,

    then


    2. cross check it with the high order test. An oil pressure gague on the corect AOD port, and dial it up for 35 to 38 psi loaded at 5/16".

    Unloaded, about 3psi.


    Ford really did a good job with this system, not many understand how good it is.

    Haystack rightly stated the low order adjustment is axle ratio based

    Quote Originally Posted by Haystack View Post
    Shift points are dependent on final drive gear ratio, changes based on gear.

    My aod's with 2.73 gears behind a 302 shift 1st-2nd @ 14mph low pedal and 42mph floored, 2nd to 3rd @ 24mph low pedal and 68-70mph floored, 3rd-4th @ 40-41 mph low pedal and always downshift from 4th floored.

    My old crown vic with 3.55's, same 302 and aod shifted 1st to 2nd @ 10mph low pedal and 35mph floored with od coming in at 35mph low pedal. Cant remeber the other gears.

    As long as the floored 1st-2nd gear matches the low pedal shift speed into od, you should be good.

    Also the tv cables stretch easier then the throttle cables, a new tv cable will change shift points from 40mph to 45mph or so with 2.73 gears for either 1st to 2nd shift or od low pedal. After about 20k miles it will be back around 40mph again. Or at least it did on 3 or 4 of my cars every time.
    See

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...AOD-amp-3-73-s

    Use an oil pressure gauge (Harbor Freight's screws right in) and set it by pressures:

    https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1450565-tv-rod.html

    Under very light (under 1500 RPM) throttle, these are the correct shift points for the AOD:

    1-2 = 15-20 MPH
    2-3 = 25-30 MPH
    3-4 = 45-50 MPH

    TRANSMISSION - AUTOMATIC - AOD - REVISED THROTTLE VALVE (TV) LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE USING TV CONTROL PRESSURE

    FORD 1980-84 FORD, T-BIRD, LTD

    LINCOLN-MERCURY 1980-84 MERCURY, LINCOLN, MARK, COUGAR, MARQUIS, CONTINENTAL

    LIGHT TRUCKS 1981-84 E SERIES AND F SERIES EQUIPPED WITH 5.0L ENGINE

    This revised method of setting TV linkage on all AOD transmissions is the only way to adjust the linkage to the middle of the specification curve. This method sets the linkage to the most sensitive point.

    The new procedure attached uses a TV control pressure gage block service tool D84P-70332-A. If that tool is not available, alternates are listed in the procedure. Highlights of the new procedure include setting the TV linkage at idle with the gage block installed to 35 +/- 5 Psi.

    The "TV pressure method for adjusting the TV linkage" procedure is recommended for transmission shift concerns while the "Linkage Adjusted at the Carburetor" procedure is recommended when the idle speed is changed by 50 RPM.

    LINKAGE ADJUSTMENT USING TV CONTROL PRESSURE TV ROD SYSTEMS ONLY

    The following procedure may be used to check and/or adjust the throttle valve (TV) rod linkage using the TV control pressure.

    1. Check/adjust the engine curb idle speed to specification required.

    2. Attach a 0-100 PSI pressure gage, T73L-6600-A, with the adapter fitting D80L-77001-A, or equivalent to the TV port on the transmission with sufficient flexible hose to make gage accessible while operating the engine.

    Obtain a TV control pressure gage block, service tool no. D84P-70332-A, or fabricate a block .397 +/- .007 inch thick (Figure 8 . The following drill bit
    shanks may also be used in order of preference: Letter X (.397 inch), 10 mm (.3937 inch) or 25/64 (.3906 inch).

    4. Operate the engine until normal operating temperature is reached and the throttle lever is off fast idle or the Idle Speed Control plunger* (if equipped) is at its normal idle position. The transmission fluid temperature should be approximately 100-150~ F. Do not make pressure check if transmission fluid is cold or too hot to touch.

    5. Set parking brake, place shift selector in N (neutral), remove air cleaner, shut off air conditioner. If equipped with a Vacuum Operated Throttle Modulator, disconnect and plug the vacuum line to this unit. If equipped with a Throttle Solenoid Positioner or an Idle Speed Control,* do not disconnect either of these units.

    IMPORTANT: Do not make pressure check in Park.

    6. With engine idling in neutral, and no accessory load on engine, insert gage block (or drill shank) between the carburetor throttle lever and adjustment screw on the TV linkage lever at the carburetor (Figure 8 . The TV pressure should be 35 PSI +/- 5 PSI. For best transmission function, use the adjusting screw to set the pressure as close as possible to 35 PSI. Turning the screw in will raise the pressure 1.5 PSI per turn. Backing out the screw will lower the pressure. If equipped with Idle Speed Control, some *"hunting" may occur and an average pressure reading will have to be determined. If the adjusting screw does not have enough adjustment range to bring TV pressure within specification, first adjust rod at the transmission as described in the Shop Manual.

    7. Remove gage block, allowing TV lever to return to idle. With engine still idling in neutral, TV pressure must be at or near zero (less than 5 PSI). If not, back out adjusting screw until TV pressure is less than 5 PSI. Re-install gage block and check that TV pressure is still 35 PSI +/- 5 PSI.


    *NOTE: Idle Speed Control is only on 1984 3.8L engine with AOD transmission.
    OTHER APPLICABLE ARTICLES: None
    WARRANTY STATUS: "INFORMATION ONLY"

  5. #5
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    I know this is beating a dead horse, but I changed the U joints 2 summers ago with heavy duty Moogs and i grease them at least twice a year.

    The fact that the tranny doesnt shift into park as well as the slamming noise at coast speeds tells me its the tranny. I think its slipping in and out of OD. Thats my opinion. The car was just towed back to the shop that worked on it. They have to resolve a leaky fuel line that i paid the $275 to repair last month as well as find out why my brake lights are dead.

    If they cant check or resolve the tranny adjustments I will take it to a local tranny shop to let them test drive and give a diagnosis.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Well - when you ram an AOD through the gears you pull it back into low then slam it forward to D when you want it to shift to 2nd then slam it back into L to hold it there until it's time for D.

    My 89 would come out of adjustment then fail to go back into park if I was too mean about my pull intoblow.

    I suspect someone had a great time test beating your car before they pulled it apart for paint. Do the tires look like they had been burned? Are there "extra" miles on the car or evidence someone pulled the speedo cable?

    If you jack up your car and remove the drive shaft how do the rear gears feel? Are they still 3.55's or did someone swap a rearend on you?

    Is there any evidence your car was ripped apart ?? Is this your rear diff and AOD at all?

    BTW - bad people SUCK

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member fgross2006's Avatar
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    The car was brought back to the shop that repaired my fuel lines and they fixed the leaking connection. They said they adjusted the transmission and found source of exhaust rattle and corrected it.

    like night and day driving it home today. I didn't ask for specifics about what they adjusted but park clicks just right now and that clunk reduced by about 98% so I think I may go to a tranny shop to ask them to check the TV settings with a pressure gauge the way its supposed to be set. I think it can be made a little better.
    Last edited by fgross2006; 09-22-2017 at 07:02 PM.

  8. #8
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    Sounds like you were on the right track. My 85 started doing this a while back. Changing the fluid helped slightly. Reading up on the subject indicated the tv cable needed adjusting. I was familiar with it as my 92 tv cable fell off. However, from what I can tell, there is no cable on the 85 as its cfi. I only see a downshift rod. I ordered a highly recommended AOD Repair Manual. Mine has never been touched since I have owned it (20 years). I guess I will get a gauge too.
    Fox Body/3rd Gen MCA Gold Card Judge
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  9. #9
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    The older AOD's used a TV rod instead of the cable. Same principle of operation. The rod can be adjusted. I guess some people do it by shift feel. I always do it by pressure.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
    '91 Crown Vic P72 351W
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