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  1. #1
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Default Engine In... Hood Clearance Question

    I just got my engine installed last night, and it fits nice, and even with a 1/2" spacer it looks like I should be able to run the stock hood. My K member runs lower mounts like a convertible, so I have been hoping that I wouldn't need to change hoods.
    I did ran into one issue though. The steel vacuum tube on the throttle body... see pic below... is almost hitting the hood. With a rubber hose on it, it will touch. Other than that, everything clears. So my questions are:

    - Is that vacuum tube/source needed, and where does the other end of the hose that connects to this, connect to?

    - Which way does the engine twist? Passengers side rotating toward the hood, or Drivers side rotating toward the hood?

    I can gently bend this vacuum tube down to create clearance, but wanted to check which way the engine will rotate under load, and to see if its needed at all.

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  2. #2

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    This is the only answer
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Driver side tries to come up. You can chain it down if needed.

  4. #4
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer Down View Post
    This is the only answer
    LOL... I died laughing when I saw that pic.... I bet that scoop makes for a killer blindspot for pedestrians in the crosswalk if you are turning right

  5. #5
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Driver side tries to come up. You can chain it down if needed.
    I have solid mounts, so should be ok, and the fact that the drivers side comes up is awesome, that means the small clearance on the pass side shouldn't get smaller when I get on it... of course on decal, it could.

    Any reason to believe I can't bend that tube down to make more clearance? What function comes from that hose? I assumed it was vacuum, but then some pics show it connecting into the breather system... or I just didn't see the pic correctly.

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Fox on the chain



    Dog off the chain



    Torque stay

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    From a 13 second 66 Mustang.

    Torque stay.

    A good idea...




  7. #7
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    I was able to swap motor mounts, and that fixed the issue with the location of the engine, and I was able to swivel the throttle body evap tube 180 degrees, which solved my hood clearance issue:

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    The only issue I am faced with now, is the drivers side header flange is contacting the floor. Its better than before, I pulled the trans mount, and dropped the tailshaft 1/2", and I had 1/4" clearance, which seems like enough. I am thinking that since the AJE K-Member uses convertible mounts, I need a slightly shorter trans mount. I was looking at the Prothane and Energy Suspension urethane mounts, but not sure if they are shorter than the factory mount. Factory mount is about 3" tall, so I need one about 2-1/2" tall. Any suggestions? The headers are MAC long tube headers, I could grind off part of the flange where it hits the floor, but before I do that, just wanted to see what folks thought, and if anyone had run into a similar situation.

    Here is a pic of where its hitting

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    Last edited by vdubn; 09-20-2017 at 11:31 PM.

  8. #8
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    I may have figured out my header clearance issue. It looks as though the headers I have, MAC long tubes, may be for an automatic vehicle. The drivers side is at least 2" too far to the left, and I know that the X-pipe sections are much wider for the auto trans versus the T5. Anyone know if the drivers side is the one positioned further left in the auto vehicles? Hoping so, otherwise there is no answer for why my drivers side header is so far to the left.

    When I tried to connect my X-pipe, it became obvious that it was way off. I know my X-pipe is from a manual car, and these headers came off of a car that had a 5 speed, but it had straight pipes back to the rear of the car, with no X-pipe (pretty much a homemade header-back setup), so these could be headers for an auto.

    I have seen people selling long tube headers portraying no difference between the two, but I know there is a difference due to the width of the auto trans, so accidentally getting the wrong setup wouldn't surprise me... it would just suck since I spent a good bit of money having these ceramic coated.

    Hopefully someone else can chime in with experience trying to fit auto headers to a manual car.

  9. #9
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    The difference in the manual vs. auto headers is they have a bigger 'bubble' outwards where the pan would be on an auto, but they still angle back in to hit the humps on the crossmember. Auto headers are fully usable on a manual, but not vice versa.. I've done it.

    I see your driver side collector is WAY to the driver's side, it's hard to tell, but is the passenger side WAY to the driver's side as well? Looks like an alignment issue at the k-member itself if so.. No if the passenger is WAY to the passenger side, then I'm lost.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  10. #10

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    Probably not what you want to hear, but that appears to be a header that somehow got bent and needs some "adjusting" (everything minus h/x pipe bolted on tight, insert long large bar securely into collector, "adjust" toward the passenger side). The clearance for the exhaust pipes with the transmission cross members, manual or automatic, isn't different as far as I know. That collector flange would hit the same vehicle sub frame attaching point in a Fox regardless of an automatic or manual transmission.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 09-22-2017 at 02:06 PM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    if you put an offset bushing in the crossmember you may be able to drop it 1/2" which would help your fitment problems substantially it appears. Just a thought.

    Good luck!

  12. #12
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Well, I confirmed that the headers are in fact a set of headers for an Auto trans. I also found the easiest way to tell. If the 02 sensor bungs point towards the center/inside, then that is 5 speed. If the bungs are on the outside of the collector, auto. Mine are on the outside. It is possible that the flange got bent up a tad, but it just barely contacts the floor with the old trans mount installed, so adjusting that part would have been pretty simple. The bigger issue, is that the flange is about 2" too wide for the Pro Chamber/X-pipe to mount.... so, since I didn't want to buy a new Pro Chamber, or run a custom exhaust, I went ahead and bought a set of 5 speed long tubes from MAC today.

    It just stinks, as I have like $600 into these headers with them being ceramic coated inside and out.

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