Got a 86 gt i want to go 351 route what are the do and donts by the way the car will be 95 street and track once in a while..oh and 5 speed.
Can i use any 5.0 aluminum aftermarket heads...
Can i use a 89 ...or93 cobra computer...
Comments..?
Got a 86 gt i want to go 351 route what are the do and donts by the way the car will be 95 street and track once in a while..oh and 5 speed.
Can i use any 5.0 aluminum aftermarket heads...
Can i use a 89 ...or93 cobra computer...
Comments..?
link to my fox body customs..http://vb.foureyedpride.com/album.php?albumid=3221
Pay attention to imbalance ratings. 351W use 28, 302HO use 50!
ECU is coded for CID so a tune is needed. Big injectors and throttle body and MAF too. No point in a W without a cam designed for one.
Heads fit but bolt holes get enlarged. Watch compression ratio.
Even with convertible (1/2" drop) mounts a cowl hood is usually required.
Good luck with that T5! Have it built to Z spec and one piece bearing retainer or sell it off for a TKO or T56. Be sure you use a great quality clutch. Low (numerically higher) rear gears and narrow tires to limit traction, control arms to limit hop/shake, etc all help.
bfm347 tips:-
HOOD stock hood or cowl
FUEL efi or carb
EXHAUST stock or not
DRIVELINE auto or manual, LMR 157 28oz flwheel, or does it have to be SFI rated for drag racing
INTAKE EFi Lower intake is wider and 5.8 truck Fuel rails differ; 4bbl intake is taller
SUSPENSION front sway bar required 1-1/4" front sway bar spacer to clear oil pan; SN95 sway bar mounts help
OIL PAN stock 351 W Panther or oil pan swap custom aftermarket
ACCESSORY PLAN a/c required?supercharger planned?
other questions:-
SD (speed density) or MAF (mass air-flow)
are stock, convertible or LMR 351 swap "solid motor" mounts going to be okay?
Is K- member spacing required? Steering Rag joint can intrude, accessories and header spacing differs depending.
If EFi, Edlebrock 3848 elbow on 4bbl intake or stock GT40 intake
TFI distributor mates to 351
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JIJMTFTBgM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zgGe2bfnK4
Canuck CV's were 351 for many years, so the above is a great source for the sump.
The EFI intake required is the expensive part in this if your raiding a parts supply.
And put the dawg on a chain.....
http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...11#post1424411
Originally Posted by bmf347
Last edited by xctasy; 10-17-2017 at 05:42 AM.
About Respect https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bk9WG8KWW0
X's Album http://vb.foureyedpride.com/album.php?albumid=2922
Oz JPS Stang http://www.nzmustang.com/Images/Hist...cecars/jps.htm
4V (A)US Race V8's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqk18A-ibjA
ITZOLD 81 Fox http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-fun-and-games
6V i6's @ http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10 ; AWD i6's @ http://www.apetracing.co.nz/
113 mph 84 5.0 at Amaroo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTezv3Pzdls&t=8s
Techno KCM Loop Out: Severed Heads 1m³ Angels 1985 https://youtu.be/Wll6G1KpLqQ
Future Shock https://youtu.be/rDKGkWU0lWQ
About Respect https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bk9WG8KWW0
X's Album http://vb.foureyedpride.com/album.php?albumid=2922
Oz JPS Stang http://www.nzmustang.com/Images/Hist...cecars/jps.htm
4V (A)US Race V8's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqk18A-ibjA
ITZOLD 81 Fox http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-fun-and-games
6V i6's @ http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10 ; AWD i6's @ http://www.apetracing.co.nz/
113 mph 84 5.0 at Amaroo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTezv3Pzdls&t=8s
Techno KCM Loop Out: Severed Heads 1m³ Angels 1985 https://youtu.be/Wll6G1KpLqQ
Future Shock https://youtu.be/rDKGkWU0lWQ
I would assume you are after some power and that's why you are going to the 351W based power plant.
There is a FRPP W block out there that supports big bores. Forget boring 0.030 or 0.040 and adding stroke to land at 427. Try 460!
Edelbrock makes a very nice EFI intake package for the W. Professional Products and Procomp have copied it too.
A well selected split duration cam on a 408 can make north of 600HP in N/A form with as little as an AFR185 head.
If I were building one for occasional use I would likely go to an aftermarket self tuning EFI and go out to 430 cid on a big bore block and use a fairly lumpy cam shooting for 600 HP at 6000.
Daily driver would get port injection and a tuned A9L with big EV6 injectors and EV1 to EV6 wiring adapters. Cam would be less aggressive and a Viper spec T56 would go in for its 0.5:1 OD in hopes of salvaging a little distance per tank.
And bring on the 315/35 zr 17 nittos on 10" wheels out back!
Find a 94+ roller engine from a lighting or a truck, pick a good 170cc+ aluminum heads and enlarge the bolt holes to 1/2". Pick an intake, GT40, Trick Flow, several makers for the 351w.. Then spec a custom cam for your parts and what you plan to do with it. Hydraulic roller since you went with the 94+ block. Throw $200-$300 worth of bearings, rings and gaskets in the engine and have new cam bearings put in and have it cleaned up and honed. For under $3000 you have a nice solid 400+ HP engine.
You will need a new distributor, oil pan and likely headers. Make sure you have 92+ style motor mounts, and you still might possibly need a cowl hood, depending on intake choice.
1986 CHP SSP Coupe
My first question would be what's your budget? Even using a stock 351 you'll be surprised how fast the "little things" eat up money.
A build like the one erratic50 outlines would blow through $15k or more in the blink of an eye. When you get into the world of big bore blocks and T56 transmissions you better be packing a fat wallet. If you are in fact bucks up this would make a sweet build for sure, but it's not realistic to most of us.
Now the plan Ourobus outlines here is a much more affordable way to go and still will give you all you'll ever need on a car that's mostly street driven. I'm even of the opinion that a T5 will live as long as it's not power shifted, even with occasional track use.
408/T5/3.73's
We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.
The shop wont do an F4 rebuild if the cam bearing tunnels are cracked like they OFTEN do.
The cost of any F4 block is the cost of checking that it hasn't happened already.
If its not already cracked, you can of course use and abuse any F4 351 W, and it'll cope fine. The more expensive tie rod roller rockers are what id use if I really wanted to go roller rocker. But I'd look first at the 69-92 model year blocks. F4 blocks aren't useless or bad, you just need to know what happens if someone pops out the cam bearings during a rebuild. ,
About Respect https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2bk9WG8KWW0
X's Album http://vb.foureyedpride.com/album.php?albumid=2922
Oz JPS Stang http://www.nzmustang.com/Images/Hist...cecars/jps.htm
4V (A)US Race V8's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tqk18A-ibjA
ITZOLD 81 Fox http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-fun-and-games
6V i6's @ http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10 ; AWD i6's @ http://www.apetracing.co.nz/
113 mph 84 5.0 at Amaroo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iTezv3Pzdls&t=8s
Techno KCM Loop Out: Severed Heads 1m³ Angels 1985 https://youtu.be/Wll6G1KpLqQ
Future Shock https://youtu.be/rDKGkWU0lWQ
While an F4TE block isn't near as strong as a 69-74 block, or even the non-roller blocks, they'll put a 302 roller block to shame. My last 418w build in a F4TE block made 600hp N/A to the tires, without a hiccup.. As with any build, you should check parts thoroughly, mag it at a shop etc.
1986 CHP SSP Coupe
The older blocks may be stronger but if you're building to HP levels where a F4TE block might not be strong enough then you are already at the level that should be using an aftermarket block anyways.
When I did my 408 I specifically wanted a F4 block because I could reuse the lifters I already had and link bars would have added another $500 to the build.
408/T5/3.73's
We're not fast racers, we're more what's known as half fast racers.
++ ^
this!
totally agree! Some builds are not about max anything. They are about getting to an end goal without breaking the bank.
Any of us who have ever done any modifications to a car know how fast the ball can roll down the hill once the go fast bug is caught.
I had a shelf FULL of parts accumulated over 15+ years yet my 1986 was nearly indistinguishable from stock from 1986 until last fall. At times I've started questioning my sanity for modding a 31 year old mostly original and all there car. But I have the stuff to put it back and the changes are part of making it my own..... and stop .... and turn in addition to going fast.
Personally I've always wanted an official pace car replica with a 351W based stroker in it. Something to make it a ground pounder like the actual cars were.....
So much love for these old cars -- and their pushrod V8's! There are too many young bucks that don't have a clue about what you can do with one if you are well read and mechanically inclined.
love these builds - good luck! Don't forget to upgrade your brakes and strap in!
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