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Thread: New carb advice

  1. #1

    Default New carb advice

    Hello fellow members,

    I am looking to replace the carb on my 1984 GT convertible. I believe it has a Holley 4180 on there now. It's getting old. I would like to update the carb. Any thoughts on the best replacement.

    Thank you in advance,
    Peter
    1984 GT 5sp, 5.0 vert
    1987 Turbo "T" Limited

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I always had great luck with Carter and therefore also Edelbrock.

    Would be good to know the engine size, approximate horsepower, intended use, etc

    You also can't go wrong with an EFI setup.
    -- James

    Favorite thing I’ve said that’s been requoted: “"40 year old beercan on wheels with too much motor"

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    Also in the stable - my son’s car. 1986 Mustang GT Convertible. Black/Black/Black conversion. 93 leather. VM1 ECU. T5Z

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  3. #3
    FEP Senior Member dtmilsap's Avatar
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    I have heard that quickfuel carbs are pretty good.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  4. #4
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    You don't mention what your plans are for the car. If you are just keeping it stock have you thought about rebuilding or having it rebuilt? The 4180 isn't a bad carburetor and you know everything will install and connect exactly like it should. You won't have to mess with figuring out throttle linkage connections, fuel line connections, vacuum lines, air cleaner fitment, etc. etc.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
    '91 Crown Vic P72 351W
    '97 Thunderbird
    '85 Ford LTD Squire

  5. #5

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    I would like to make a change. My mechanic said he is having trouble finding the floats plus I would like to make a change.
    The motor is a 302 with a vey mild cam. I am keeping it as a driver and will remain stock.
    1984 GT 5sp, 5.0 vert
    1987 Turbo "T" Limited

  6. #6

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    Can't find floats sounds like an excuse, because on this planet, with millions of side pivot floats that also came in other models that will work in a 4180, IF EVEN NEEDED (99.9% not needed for rebuild), are no trouble at all to find. You would like to make a change, so, for the sake of originality of a carbureted 4 eye, simplicity, rock solid no-nonsense reliability, a mild 302, and a stock streeter, IMHO, steer clear of the new, fancy, or other even more expensive wannabe's posing as Holley carburetors, rife with quality and calibration cluster-bleeps, or anything else with the illusion of being superior at providing the basic physics a carburetor handily outperforms them at, and grab a common, run of the mill 1850 or 80457 600cfm vacuum secondary, an "S" version if you want something shiny, but the older the better... with Ford kick down if you've got a C4/C5. Clean and rebuild it, or find somebody competent at that who does. Give a shout here for inexpensive specific information if you end up needing a kit or parts, or free advice regarding that 4180 or something else.
    Last edited by Walking-Tall; 09-11-2017 at 09:28 AM.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    WT - well put.

    I love EFI on my 86 and wouldn't trade it but when I build my 85 and have to track down an entire engine bay of parts I'll likely throw on a carb on. it's easier and correct for the car which I have no long term plans of keeping. And dialed in it will run just fine.

    If you want new - Edelbrock makes a good line of products but you will fight lines and linkages.

    If you want correct for the car, rebuild the Holley. Be sure to check the throttle plate for leaks around the pivot. Those often are the culprit when it comes to poor idle and just off idle performance. Beyond that, several guys here may have forgotten more about carbs than 99.9% of the "mechanics" out there will ever know. Certainly more than the shop teacher at mechanics school usually.

    Ask this supposed "mechanic" what to do with the quadrajet on your buddy's all original 73 Buick Century 350 4-barrel. If he says buy a new one or replace it rather than rebuild it on that one too, replace him. Put one of those supposed pieces of crap in the hands of my dad...... No more lean out stall or pop on tip in, etc. I used to laugh my butt off at the dirt track listening to all the guys motors that had a classically horrible tune on the 4 barrel on them. what the hell is a woob-id-dah anyway..... You go ahead and do that, I'll go around....

  8. #8

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    "If he says buy a new one or replace it rather than rebuild it on that one too, replace him." - also very well put.

    Unless a mechanic is an older mechanic, or one remotely actually still interested in cars and accurate analysis and diagnosis, and FIXING and FUNCTION, as opposed to parts changers that let computers or code readers tell them what to do, the sight or mere mention of a carburetor today probably strikes fear into their hearts.
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  9. #9
    FEP Senior Member
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    I didn't think I would find any support for the rebuild route. If he can't find floats then he must be blind. I found some in five seconds doing a Google search. Do you want to make a change just for the sake of making a change? If you are just planning to keep it stock then the 4180 should offer you all you need. As mentioned, there are a couple of things to check when rebuilding, but Holley's are about as simple as it gets when it comes to rebuilding carburetors.

    Carb swaps always seem like a simple task until you look at everything that interacts and connects to it. I'm not saying you couldn't successfully swap to another carb and be happy. Maybe I am just getting old, but I like keeping things simple. A lot of times that involves working with what you have.
    '89 XR-7 5 Speed
    '95 SC 5 Speed
    '91 Crown Vic P72 351W
    '97 Thunderbird
    '85 Ford LTD Squire

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I believe there have to significant and measurable benefits while managing to reduce or eliminate negatives. My purpose in going to Edelbrock was to eliminate the ultra fragile powervalve situation I had on my car. When I switched I stopped needing to run it quite so pig rich to keep my 351W from stalling while cold. Was a stupid kid trick to run a 360 degree intake on a daily driver knowing it had to be driven when it's 20 below.... but I didn't know better until I learned lessons the hard way.

    i will say that Edelbrock sounded like it was about to suck the entire hood into the motor and blow it out the tailpipe. Alway have loved that moaning sound. Can't help but smile. Could hear it over the burned out (literally) glass packs and headers which was hilarious.

  11. #11

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    Put a new Holley 4160 600 cfm replacement carb on mine. Works like a charm and haven't looked back. I still have the 4180 tucked away though.
    1984.5 GT 5.0 5 Speed ANALOG
    BBK Long Tubes/H pipe/FM
    Edelbrock Intake/Holley 600
    8.8 w/FMS 3.73s
    Steeda Shifter

    2010 GT 5 Speed DIGITAL
    Track Pack
    Pypes Violator axle back
    Airaid Cold Air

  12. #12
    FEP Power Member slow84lx's Avatar
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    The 4180 with a complete rebuild will be your best bet. If you don't have the knowhow to rebuild it yourself there are places that you can send it to. Its not a difficult job and lots of help is available by experts on this very carb on this site.

    Your current mechanic shouldn't be trusted with this job,....or, anything else on your Mustang.

  13. #13

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    Just wanted to thank everyone for their advice. I ended up going with the rebuild. Car runs like a top.
    Thanks again for all your input.
    1984 GT 5sp, 5.0 vert
    1987 Turbo "T" Limited

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Another one saved - well done gang!!

  15. #15

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    Quote Originally Posted by pmc_gt350 View Post
    Just wanted to thank everyone for their advice. I ended up going with the rebuild. Car runs like a top.
    Thanks again for all your input.
    ............
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  16. #16
    FEP Power Member
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    I’d go for the new 625 cfm demon carbs, I hear there great

  17. #17
    FEP Senior Member 854vragtop's Avatar
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    The best carb I've used so far on my '85 GT is the Summit 600 CFM carb. It tunes exactly like a Holly, uses many Holley parts, and has none of the hesitation issues when shifting that I've dealt with two if my 4180C carbs. Cold weather and cold engine behavior is perfect. I can fire it up and drive off immediately with NO hesitation or stumble whatsoever. Throttle response is great with annular boosters on primaries and secondaries.

    History of my car. I bought it in 1990 with 43k miles on it. The previous owner had installed a Holley 4160 and put the 4180c in a box. I rebuilt the original 4180c and played with the accelerator pump adjustment along with different pump cams. I could never get rid of the slight hesitation when shifting and getting back on the gas. In the early 90's, Mustang Monthly ran an article dealing with the hesitation issues and steps to take to remedy it. As I remember, the main changes included upping the primary jets one size, installing the green accelerator pump cam, opening the brass bleeds behind the primary jets (in the main metering block) by .001", and removing the steel caps allowing adjustment of the 4 corner idle needles. The usual steps during a rebuild were all done (float level, adjusting accelerator pump bolt/spring combo with engine warm and choke completely disengaged, etc). This helped get rid of most of the hesitation issues while shifting, but not completely. And, driveability with the engine cold still sucked. I played with different pump shooters, both larger and smaller, and still couldn't solve the issue. I bought a second 4180c from a junkyard that had never been molested (idle plugs still there) and rebuilt it, along with adding the green pump cam. Same hesitation and cold drivability issues. All of these issues went away after installing the Summit carb.
    '85 Mustang convertible GT, 5 speed, 4V
    Stock bottom end, Comp Cams XE264HR-14, GT-40P heads w/ Alex's springs, Weiand 8124 Street Warrior,
    Summit Racing 600CFM carb, 8.8 Turbo Coupe rear end w/ 3.55 gears, '94/'95 Cobra brakes, '85 Town Car M/C, '93 Cobra booster, MM Panhard Bar, MM Strut Tower Brace, MM 4 point K-member Brace

    '68 Mercury Cougar, w/ '88 5.0L, 4V
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