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  1. #26

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    This old Warner & Swasey turret lathe is EVERYTHING the "experts" tell you not to get when buying a lathe for home. It's worn out, awkward to setup, has no compound slide, can't single-point thread and takes up a lot of room in the garage BUT it'll peel off metal like you won't believe. Most jobs only require turning, facing, drilling and cut-off. It'll do all that without any extra setup. This lathe gets used a LOT. I don't know how I ever got by without it.

  2. #27

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    Lots done yesterday. I got the brake pedal lubed up and put back in the hanger. Then I pulled the clutch lever and got it cleaned and lubed. I stuck the lever in the vice and bent it out so the pad would sit further away from the brake lever. I've been having to "pigion toe" the pedals because they were so close together. Also disassembled, cleaned and lubed the clutch adjuster mechanism so it functions properly again.


    Put the pedals back in the car and realized that I had neglected to consider the thickness of the firewall insulation when I sized up the brake push rod. In actuality, the push rod was about 1/2" too short.


    The push rod was installed in the master cylinder when I got it. Getting it out was a chore. It used a square O-ring to retain it and it took a considerable amount of force to get it out. Of course the O-ring was torn in the process.





    Measuring the rubber pieces, it looks like it was originally 1/4" ID and 1/2" OD. I measured some 1/4" rubber fuel line and it's a pefect fit. When it's time for final assembly, I'll cut a chunk of fuel line the width of the groove and use it to retain the rod.


    A good chunk of my day was spent lengthening the rod. I cut the rod in half then threaded both pieces. The round part was 10mm so I threaded it M10X1.25.








    I chucked up a 5/8" bar in the lathe, drilled it, tapped it, then cut it off to a length of 1-3/4". The rod with the short threads got some red Loctite and was screwed into the spacer. The other piece got a jam nut then was screwed into the spacer.





    I test fit it in the car and adjusted it so the master cylinder would be fully stroked when the pedal hit the floor. Finally, I cut the chunk of fuel line and sliped it onto the rod, put a dap of grease on the ball and wiped a little on the rubber to help it slide in, then slid the rod into the master cylinder piston.


    Since the clutch cable was already disconnected, this was the perfect oportunity to check another item off of the to-do list. The rubber grommet that goes between the clutch cable housing and firewall was disintegrating and causing issues with the clutch adjustment. I wanted to make a solid spacer to replace the rubber. Dug around for a bit and really lucked out. There was a chunk of steel in the junk bin that already had the exact right ID, OD and length. All I had to do was turn a step on one end to fit the hole in the firewall.





    It doesn't have the little screw that holds it to the firewall but I don't see why that would be necessary. I installed the cable with the new spacer. Adjusting it was a cinch now that the adjuster mechanism is working properly again. HOLY SMOKES! The clutch feels 100 times better now.


    The last thing I managed to do before running out of daylight was to replace the ignition switch. Mine fell apart a while back. I zip-tied it back together and ordered a new switch. The zip-tie fix had been working well so I kind of forgot about the new switch sitting on the shelf. Getting the tamper-proof screws out wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. Grabbed onto the flange with vicegrips and they came right out. I found some short Philips head screws to mount the new switch.


    Didn't manage to get the car back on the road in one weekend. Still a lot of assembly work to do but, other than the brake lines, all the fabrication is done.

  3. #28

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    Love it! Keeps the posts coming.
    Axle Tag Decoder
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    FEP Registries: Black Magic & Crimson Cat / Cobra / Dominator / G.T.350 / LTD LX/Police & Marquis LTS / M81 / Pace Car / Predator / Saleen / Turbo GT & Turbo RS / Twister II

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  4. #29

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    Some very clever fixes, thank you for showing your work!

  5. #30

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    I think Towelie said it best. "I got no idea what's goin' on right now... "
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #31

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    Quote Originally Posted by Davedacarpainter View Post
    Some very clever fixes, thank you for showing your work!
    Praise from Ceasar [of clever fixes].

  7. #32

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    After getting the kids from daycare, feeding them, and getting the girls off to gymnastics, all I managed to do on the car yesterday was make some brake lines.


  8. #33

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    It's still one less thing you have to do later! Looks good


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    1984 LTD LX, 160k mile Explorer 5.0, Comp XE264HR-14 cam, Alex’s Parts springs on stock GT40 3 bar heads, Unported Explorer intake, 1 5/8 shorty headers, off-road H-Pipe, Spintech 9000 mufflers, Holley Terminator X Max, J-Mod 4R70W, Mustang 8.8 w/ 3.73s, Tubular front and rear control arms, front coilovers, Turbocoupe rear coil springs

  9. #34

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    Last night I got the steering column back in and the rest of the interior buttoned up. It's amazing how much cleaner it is under the dash without the rat's nest of wires for the aftermarket cruise control.

    This car originally had cruise control. The brain box, actuator, VSS, vacuum lines, and brake dump valve are all still there. Only half of the actuator throttle cable is there, they cut it off next to the wiper motor. I assume that the aftermarket cruise control was installed when they put in the non-cruise Mustang steering wheel.

    I'd like to get the factory cruise control working again. If the parts that are there now still work then all it'll need is a new cable from the actuator to the carb and some buttons. Oh, and figure out how to wire in a clutch safety switch. Is the actuator cable specific to the carbureted 5.0?

  10. #35

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    This evening I bled the brakes and got the car back on the road.

    The clutch feels amazing! It's smooth, precise and has a shorter throw now that pedal travel isn't being wasted smooshing a big rubber donut.

    I'm disappointed with the brakes. There is too little pedal travel and it's too hard. The brakes work well, I can lock them up if I want to, it's just the feel of them that I don't like. Looks like I'll need to hunt down a smaller master cylinder after all.

  11. #36

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    I shortened up the brake push rod a bit so the the pedal wasn't so far off the floor. That has greatly improved the feel. I can live with it now but I would still like to try a smaller master cylinder.

    Out of curiosity, I added up all the money I've spent on this car since getting it on the road a year ago, $5,311.43! There were some big ticket items; tires, brakes, cooling system and front end rebuild, but the majority of it was just the "incidentals". All those little nickel and dime purchases add up. This thing still needs engine, transmission, rear end, exhaust, interior and body/paint work. Kind of puts the "$5000 Fairmont" discussion in perspective.

  12. #37

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    It was pure driving bliss for the first 2-1/2 days. Everything was tight, smooth, and felt amazing. Wednesday afternoon the clutch pedal started making an obnoxious clicking sound that was both heard and felt. I stuck my head under the dash last night and discovered that the firewall is broken where the clutch cable goes through. I can't really get in there to weld it up now but I have an idea for a bolt-on reinforcement that'll help for the time being.

  13. #38

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    Wow, that sucks!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  14. #39

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    Success! I built a brace to support the clutch cable housing. It bolts to the hole in the cowl seam above the clutch cable. Started by making a template out of a cereal box then dug through the scrap pile and found a 3/16" plate that already had the necessary 90 degree bend on the end.

    I bored the hole for the solid spacer first.



    Then cut it out and deburred it (shown with cardboard template).



    The hole was bored slightly undersized so that the solid spacer [that I made last week] would have a press-fit.



    The spacer sticks out the back of the bracket to register in the cable hole of the firewall. I test fit it in the car, made a few tweaks to the bend, then marked and drilled the bolt hole. Finished it with a couple coats of semi-gloss black (camera made it look gray).



    Installed.



    There is no flex in the firewall when pressing the clutch, the clicking sound is gone, and the pedal feels better than ever.

  15. #40
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    qikgts's Avatar
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    Nice fix!
    '85 GT

  16. #41

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    Not long after the last update, an intake gasket blew out and hosed down the driveway with coolant. I'm not usually one to give up but this car has really been testing my patience. My sister lent me a car and the LTD was parked for the winter.

    A couple weekends ago I popped off the intake manifold and slapped in some new gaskets. It's a runner again but I can't drive it much due to the tail shaft seal pissing tranny fluid on the catalytic converter. One step forward, two steps back...

  17. #42

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    Dang! Has it been that long? It's amazing how life gets in the way some times.

    I crawled under the car last weekend and FINALLY put in a new tail shaft seal and a pinion seal in the rear end. The LTD is back on the road!

    Uncle Jeff [who gave me this car] passed away last month. I guess that was the motivation to get off my ass and keep this car going.

    A guy at work upgraded the brakes/suspension on his '90 Mustang and sold me his front spindles/brakes and 8.8 rear. I've collected all the parts to do the front brake swap and will do that pretty soon. I'll hold off on swapping the rear end until I get around to the motor swap.

    The only thing it desperately needs at the moment is new exhaust. Half the rotten exhaust has already fallen off and the rest isn't far behind. I bought a 3" single exhaust [made for a Turbo Coupe], big "turbo" muffler and a Bullet muffler to put up by the Y-pipe [to cut down resonance]. The goal is to have a mellow exhaust tone to keep up with the sleeper aesthetic. Was hoping to wrangle my cousin over with his welder but he's been busy dealing with Uncle Jeff's estate. There's a hotrod shop that does exhaust work right next door to the kids' gymnastics but the guy I talked to there said that they wouldn't touch it since the car has a cat on it now. When I asked if they'd do it if I brought the car with no exhaust on it... he didn't say no. Didn't say yes either so we'll see.

  18. #43
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    I'm sorry for your losses, I don't know what your going through.


    But....

    Welcome b-a-c-k.








    see this http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...g-dragged-back

  19. #44
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Montebello, CA
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    3,435

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    I'm sorry for your losses, I don't know what your going through.


    But....

    Welcome b-a-c-k.
    Hey Dude, I sold my falcon a few days ago... its going down to Brisbane
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  20. #45
    FEP Super Member NAVYCAT's Avatar
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    Jul 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrriggs View Post
    Dang! Has it been that long? It's amazing how life gets in the way some times.

    I crawled under the car last weekend and FINALLY put in a new tail shaft seal and a pinion seal in the rear end. The LTD is back on the road!

    Uncle Jeff [who gave me this car] passed away last month. I guess that was the motivation to get off my ass and keep this car going.

    A guy at work upgraded the brakes/suspension on his '90 Mustang and sold me his front spindles/brakes and 8.8 rear. I've collected all the parts to do the front brake swap and will do that pretty soon. I'll hold off on swapping the rear end until I get around to the motor swap.

    The only thing it desperately needs at the moment is new exhaust. Half the rotten exhaust has already fallen off and the rest isn't far behind. I bought a 3" single exhaust [made for a Turbo Coupe], big "turbo" muffler and a Bullet muffler to put up by the Y-pipe [to cut down resonance]. The goal is to have a mellow exhaust tone to keep up with the sleeper aesthetic. Was hoping to wrangle my cousin over with his welder but he's been busy dealing with Uncle Jeff's estate. There's a hotrod shop that does exhaust work right next door to the kids' gymnastics but the guy I talked to there said that they wouldn't touch it since the car has a cat on it now. When I asked if they'd do it if I brought the car with no exhaust on it... he didn't say no. Didn't say yes either so we'll see.
    Hey welcome back, I see you are in Vancouver w.a. My sister in law lives there
    2017 Ford Explorer Sport (DD) 1986 Capri 5.0 Silver/Red
    1969 Falcon XW GTHO coupe (SOLD) went to Australia
    Past 4 eyes-
    4th. 1981 Capri "White" Black Magic I6
    3rd. 1984 Capri RS V8 Black/grey
    2nd. 1984 Capri RS V8 White/red
    1st. 1984 SVO Grey/grey (traded it for a worn out 1970 BOSS 302)
    Both '84 Capri's vin# were 10 away from each other
    U.S. NAVY 1980-2009

  21. #46

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    Thanks, guys. Good to be back.

    I tweaked with the air screws and curb idle on my carb when I got home from work today. It's running better now than it ever has!

    My daughter helped me wash it last weekend so now it's look'n good and feel'n good, the weather is gorgeous, it's been great all around. Why did I let it sit so long?

  22. #47
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    Jackson, NJ 08527
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    Never knew the LTD LX's could be had with manual windows.
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  23. #48

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    Quote Originally Posted by OX1 View Post
    Never knew the LTD LX's could be had with manual windows.
    Yeah, I'm glad this one has that. I'm a manual kind of guy. The car was already converted to manual transmission and I've since converted the steering and brakes to manual. Heck, it even has a manual choke.

  24. #49
    FEP Senior Member OX1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrriggs View Post
    Yeah, I'm glad this one has that. I'm a manual kind of guy. The car was already converted to manual transmission and I've since converted the steering and brakes to manual. Heck, it even has a manual choke.
    That's awesome. Put in a model A steering col, you can have manual base timing adjustment.
    86 Capri, 5.0, 5Spd, A9L QH/BE, 47 lb Inj PMAS 3" MAF, Single T44 Turbo, Front Mount IC, TW170,
    Stock Cam, Explr Intake/TB, 1.7 Rockers, CF dual friction clutch, 3" DP, 2.5" full Exh, 3.27, 11.932 @ 115.78
    84 LTD, 331-10:1, TW170/Exprl Intake, 47 lbs inj/80 mm LMAF, Full Duals, Quarterhorse, Vortech 7PSI, Lentech AOD, 5 lug Mk VII brakes/rear, Eibach Sway bars, Cobra HB (dads ride, but I fix it )

  25. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by OX1 View Post
    That's awesome. Put in a model A steering col, you can have manual base timing adjustment.
    Ha ha, that would be consistent. Unfortunately, due to my contradictory nature, I decided instead to build an ECU from scratch to replace the much simpler mechanical advance. Hmmm... maybe it's not so much a desire for simplicity but rather a compulsion to do everything the hard way.

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