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  1. #1

    Question Strut Hitting Frame?

    [hr][/hr]hi guys, i tried googling around to no avail. i was doing some work on my 86 GT when i noticed my shiny new bilsteins are scuffed up! looks like the center of the strut tube is hitting the lip of the front frame/ subframe on both sides, also the driver side tire is rubbing the frame as well when turning left.... i am assuming that is not normal, and since coilovers were in mind in the near future, this is not good.. as far as i know the car has never been in an accident as the paint is original, or so ive been told.

    any help or ideas? thanks so much!

  2. #2

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    Check the caster/camber. Does it have Caster/camber plates?

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    You may need camber bolts to adjust the spindle on the strut. For best clearance on the narrow K member (4 banger cars and 79-86 5.0 cars) with stock A-arms (fox body arms are shorter than sn95) add camber bolts then push the struts out to towards the center of strut tower. Dial your camber at the camber bolts. If you have plates centering the strut lets you max out caster which hugely helps driving manners.

    Set your toe at around 1/8" narrower towards the front of the tire vs rear. I bought a gauge from kegs for $50 that lets me measure caster and camber. I used angle iron strapped to rims to adjust the toe on mine. Or you can always take it to a reputable alignment shop.

    If you are running X2 balljoints and SN95 spindles you might need to absolutely max out the negative camber with camber bolts and a pry bar when tightening the struts to reach the desired setting while the struts are centered in the towers.

    pain in the butt but if done correctly a 17x8 wheel with a 245/45/17 tire clears everywhere with no rubbing when turning lock to lock. I had to jack my fenderwells into position and screw them into position but it wasn't a big deal. Reportedly Lincoln Mark VII and Mark VIII fender wells make this much easier.

    my car is sitting on a stock GT spring up front and between the X2's and plates it's dropped 1 1/2". Handles amazingly well for an old piece of tired iron.
    Last edited by erratic50; 09-07-2017 at 07:23 AM.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member plumkrazy's Avatar
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    Also look at the bushings in the strut mounts could be worn. Factory but some spacers in the rack(under dust boot) to prevent turning the wheel to far its common that they break or missing


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    1 of 3 1985 Silver Grand Prix Capr's
    My first New car and still own 1986 Capri

  5. #5

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    i have purchased but not yet installed mm cc plates, so based on what you guys are saying that should eliminate 2 possibilities which is great, wont be able to say for sure if it fixed it till theyre on. thanks for all the input! once theyre in and everything is aligned nicely ill post back

  6. #6

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    Same here with mine. No strut sub frame rubbing here, but passenger tire's scrubbed passenger sub frame rail to bare metal because it steers further right than left. Some a$$hole installed the rack off center. Consider that and check yours...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    For street use that mostly makes sense for a US car. We always turn sharper right than left.... but beyond that type of logic - yep - silly!
    -- James

    Favorite thing I’ve said that’s been requoted: “"40 year old beercan on wheels with too much motor"

    My four eyed foxes:
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    Wife also had a 1987 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe in the 90's.

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