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  1. #1

    Default Help with EFI to Carb swap

    I am swapping my 1986 GT from EFI to carbureted the things that have been giving me some issues with the swap is trying to find the right throttle linkage and the fuel system and I have heard a lot of mixed ideas about both and was wondering if some of you might be able to help me out.
    Swapping to an Edelbrock 1405 Performer Series 600 CFM Aluminum Carb with Manual Choke
    Last edited by Money Pit 3131; 09-05-2017 at 07:17 PM.

  2. #2
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    The easiest thing to do is get a gas tank for a 81-85 along with sending unit and get the throttle cable for the same. If it's the stock engine, it may not have an eccentric on the cam to drive the fuel pump, so you would need an electric fuel pump, so it maybe just be easier to put a carb regulator on to get the fuel pressue down to 6 or 7 psi.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

  3. #3

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    I've been doing some research on this for my car so you can keep your gas tank and use a return style regulator to drop the pressure down to around 7psi for your carb you'll just have to addapt the fuel lines to fit the regulator.

    Sent from my LG-D852 using Tapatalk

  4. #4

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    For a simple idea for rock solid ignition as well, have a look in my Build Thread (linked in red in my signature below) starting with post #93, and then fuel system mods are covered... real simple, real inexpensive...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  5. #5

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    Throttle cables:

    http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...tor+cable,5892




    A few low pressure in-tank electric fuel pumps to choose from (that can be made to work with your tank "hanger"... been there, done it):

    http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/f...fuel+pump,6256

    (which can then sensibly provide the approx. 5psi needed by the simple addition of a "T" prior to your inline fuel filter and carburetor with a slight restriction inside to the return line (like I did), or with a bypass regulator if you choose)
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  6. #6
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Having owned both carbed and injected Windsor motor cars........ most of us here know exactly how to help..... but unless you are looking to pull the intact 86 harness and replace it with an 85 many of us are not interested in helping.

    Honestly I wouldn't give much for every carburetor problem I've ever had. EFI has worked flawlessly and I wouldn't wish the carb curse on anyone!

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...d-thread/page4


    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Progressed with my bypass-return fuel "contraption" today, lol




    The right barb will be fuel from the pump in the tank. The barb inline and on the left will be to a filter and to the carburetor, and downward barb will be to the return line. If I can figure out what size the inside thread (is 1/16-NPT a thing?) is of the schrader valve from the CFI is, it will go into the steel female union, or nearer to the carburetor, otherwise a 1/8-NPT fuel pressure gauge will. This will be mounted on the passenger side strut tower, connected up with the fuel lines on the car in that area.


    Internally tapped the return barb for a 3/8-NCx3/8" brass socket set screw, and drilled a 1/16" restriction in that for starters.




    The return barb assembled with the restriction. The final restriction size will be determined based on the resultant fuel pressure the carburetor sees.








    Quote Originally Posted by Walking-Tall View Post
    Took the fuel pump relay and about 4 inches of it's 4 wires out from under the driver's seat, and taped up and shoved those remaining wires back down the hole and under the carpet. Traced where 3 of those wires (yellow, red, and tan) goes behind the driver's side kick panel for reference, and disabled 'em there too just for peace of mind. I mapped out Ford's relay by it's wire colors for it's use universal-like and established my new fuel pump circuit "on paper", which will begin with a 30 amp 4 circuit junction block I'm adding (probably between the battery and starter solenoid or thereabouts, for a full running system power source for the present changes (ignition and fuel pump) and possible future relay upgrades), and an inline fuse holder for the yellow wire that will go to the fuel pump relay at it's new home out back in the trunk beside the inertia switch. Here's my circuit:


    Nicest frontal labotomy ever.....

    You've probably got to go back to Duraspark II, and make sure your 1405 is jeted right.


    Good fortune with the 351 conversion.....The 5.8/EFI/TFi/T5 and 351 W 4-bbl /DS11/C4 deabte will rage on.


    For 86, I'd stay injection, but that requires a full systems check

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    This post is most helpfull.
    EFi and 5.8 can be very akward and costly.

    So can carb swaps.

    If its 86, you have a world of very good advice.

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    bfm347 tips:-



    HOOD stock hood or cowl
    FUEL efi or carb
    EXHAUST stock or not
    DRIVELINE auto or manual, LMR 157 28oz flwheel, or does it have to be SFI rated for drag racing
    INTAKE EFi Lower intake is wider; 4bbl intake is taller
    SUSPENSION front sway bar required 1-1/4" front sway bar spacer to clear oil pan
    OIL PAN stock 351 W Panther or oil pan swap custom aftermarket
    ACCESSORY PLAN a/c required?supercharger planned?

    other questions
    speed density or mass air
    are stock, convertible or lrs solid motor mounts going to be okay?
    k member spacing?
    edlebrock 3848 elbow or stock GT40 intake
    TFI distributor mates to 351



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JIJMTFTBgM

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8zgGe2bfnK4



    Canuck CV's were 351 for many years, so the above is a great source for the sump.

    The EFI intake required is the expensive part in this if your raiding a parts supply.







    And put the dawg on a chain.....



    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...11#post1424411

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Anyone else had experience with brass fittings being fragile? I've seen them break instead of bend many times. It's a bit concerning in my opinion in the presence of fuel.

    You should be able to use the old fuel rail and a torch to braze together something of similar design that has stock level strength.

    Heaven forbid there were ever an accident and the inertia switch did not shut off I'd hate to see an injured person caught inside one of these old four eyed cans while fuel works on causing a major fire and proceeds to burn the car to nothing.

    Personslly I would update an EFI before I'd remove one but that debate can fall by the side-- this thought is simply one related to basic safety.


    Best regards

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