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  1. #1

    Default SVO was running rough, now won't start at all

    Hello FEP Forum. I’m very excited to join the community, I love looking at my 1984 crimson SVO everytime I walk in the garage. However I’d really like to take my kids for a drive in it.


    Background:About a year ago I got a 1984 SVO with 140k miles(assumed) that ran pretty good. It would stall when warm at idle sometimes. The idle was a little erratic it would slowly go up to 1500 and back down to 800. Gray/whitish smoke would come out of the single exhaust. One day I took it for a spin around the block as I started going up a steep street the car started violently shaking, not like anything I’ve ever experienced before. I let off of the throttle and it stopped, I gave it throttle again and it shook again. I rolled it backwards into a driveway and coasted down the hill as long as possible. I got limped it back to my house in 2nd gear until it stalled in the driveway. It wouldn’t start. I checked to see if the timing belt was still one piece and it looked to be in good shape.


    Having plenty of projects to work on at the house and other cars I didn’t mess it too much. At a certain point I fired her up again and she started! The idle was erratic again, slowly going up to 1500 and back down and back up. Again there was gray/whitish smoke.


    I figured it was a head gasket even though I couldn’t find oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil. I did a compression test and got 170, 165, 155,155. The test was done repeatedly but it was done cold. At some point I read that you are supposed give it full throttle to save the coil during the test. Which I did eventually. I also read that it was supposed to be done warm.


    I called it good and decided to do a tuneup. I replaced the sparkplugs, plug wires, cap, rotor with Motorcraft stock pieces. The rotor that I received was a “sombrero” type so I kept the old circular rotor.


    Now I can’t get it to start at all. It sounds like it’s fighting itself. I connected it to my timing light and it would flash like it was getting spark. I still wasn’t confident so I bought a spark light tester and it shows spark. The coil terminals were a little corroded and the coil was replaced. I can smell fuel but it just doesn’t want to start.


    Any help would truly appreciated,


    Ryan
    Last edited by wraithracing; 08-26-2017 at 07:11 AM. Reason: Text Color

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Grey/white smoke out the tail pipe could be an over rich or head gasket issue. The only way to narrow it down is by smell IMHO. If it smells like antifreeze, then most likely a head gasket, if it smells like fuel then you are running rich. Sometimes you can also feel the antifreeze in the residue on your fingers.

    Compression appears to be ok, so I would think you have a timing or fuel issue.

    Have to confirmed that the timing belt has not slipped or jumped a tooth. I would verify that before moving forward. Once you verify the cam timing is correct, then I would set the base ignition timing and see if the vehicle will start and run from there.

    This will most likely be a process of elimination to determine what the real issue is, so I recommend taking it slow and only making one change at a time so you can narrow down the possibilities. Others hopefully will have a more specific solution, but this should at least get you going and hopefully getting your SVO back on the road ASAP.

    Good Luck and Welcome to FEP! OH! also it will assist the rest of us in helping you out on your SVO if you post pictures of the car ASAP!
    ​Trey

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  3. #3
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Couple ideas:
    Check for vacuum leaks.
    Electrical grounds.
    Emissions items. EGR, PCV.
    Fuel items, filter, IAC
    Dist pickup coil sensor wires ok? The ones that exit the dist.
    Other sensors/wires? Turbo related items? Hoses connected to intake system.
    May have moved something more out of position while replacing tuneup parts.
    Normally should see that color smoke very long after warmup, although some do a little all the time. Why is always a guess.
    Bluish smoke is of course oil related.

    The uphill situation is a clue.

    MY 93 Ranger 2.3 does some adjusting when cold.
    As if the FI/PCM system is hunting for settings to smooth and max out idle and vac.
    Last edited by gr79; 08-27-2017 at 07:39 AM.

  4. #4

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    I don't know if full throttle will save the coil. I was under the impression that full throttle while cranking kept the injectors from firing so that a flooded condition could be cleared.
    If you visually see spark at your wires, then try spraying a little carb cleaner into the motor and seeing if it'll run. I'm betting you have a fuel pump issue. Can you test pressure? Remember that unless someone's upgraded your car, it actually has 2 fuel pumps. Either could go bad and cause a problem.
    Also, look for the no start checklist that was created by the 5.0 efi guys, I think on stangnet but probably is here as well. This will also help you diagnose your problem. And also scanning for codes code help.

  5. #5

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    First and foremost, the idle issues is likely the TPS

    A real issue is they have become very scarce (adjustable TPS). You can check yours with an ANALOG volt meter, should be above 0.9 volts, below 1.0 volt throttle closed, and sweep up to around 4.5V WOT with no dead spots.

    A bad TPS could cause your acceleration issue, but it certainly sounds more to me like a boost leak. Check both intercooler couplers very carefully for a rip and that all 4 clamps are tight. Back when I had stock EEC stuff, I saw what you describe when blew off a coupler.

    The EEC IV is capable to output codes, run the codes and they may give you a direction as well.
    Bob Myers ©

    84 Capri RS Turbo - Only a 4 banger - 1/8th 6.29@110, 1/4 9.87@137

  6. #6

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    Thank you for the suggestions.

    Per Wraithracing's recommendations here are some pics to help ; )
    <a data-cke-saved-href="https://youtu.be/lV_MkIweU8Y" href="https://youtu.be/lV_MkIweU8Y">https://youtu.be/lV_MkIweU8Y
    Name:  IMG_20170827_100755.jpg
Views: 443
Size:  93.8 KB

    I think I'll check the TPS first, then the timing belt, fuel filter, and Distribution pickup cables.

    I think I found the Stangnet post mentioned.

    I hope to have some good news soon.

  7. #7

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    Looking at the video makes me think (after double checking your plug wires are on in order) that the module on the side of the distributor or the pickup inside the distributor is giving upeople on life.... something sure seems to be off about the timing of the spark. Hoping it's just a plug wire confusion. ... this my kinda problem. I will say in the 20+ years I've been arounder 2.3 turbos the modules on the distributor aren't real trusty... especially if they are not oem. I've had several Chinese knock offs run fine for months and then leave me stranded with weird issues just like that video.

  8. #8
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    That is absolutely timing related. Whether it is the module, distributor, firing order, etc.you will have to test to be sure, but it's timing.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
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  9. #9

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    Confirmed the Camshaft crank lines up with the timing mark with the Crank at TDC. I got some starter fluid and I'm going to make sure I'm hearing the fuel pump in the morning. I'm starting to forget what I've already eliminated. I think i'll be testing that module by late morning.

  10. #10
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    Boy with the way the engine is acting, I'd say it's a tooth off on the belt. Though, If everything lines up, then check the distributor. Check the firing order and if that's good, you may want to loosen the distributor hold down and move the distributor, just so you get full cranking. When you turn the ignition on, you should here the fuel pump power up.
    Bleed Ford Blue! '84 Grabber Orange SVO, '88 Saleen 1 of 4 w/Automatic, '89 Steeda, '71 DeTomaso Pantera GT5 Wide Body EFI 4.6 DOHC...soon to be a Gen3 Coyote and some Old Ford Muscle w/ BB power. 1.21 Jigawatts!!?? PETRO EXPRESS=CITGO=BOYCOTT!
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  11. #11
    FEP Super Member gr79's Avatar
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    Recheck plug wires on cap indexing as to correct #1 placement and also cyl routing/firing order.
    Replacing wires is a simple procedure but entirely possible to mess up.
    If the dist has to be moved far out of normal position to run, then #1 wire could be in the wrong hole.
    Too early or too late.
    Of course you may already know this. Thought id mention it anyway.

    FI engines are started with foot off gas pedal.
    Flooring the accel pedal cuts off the fuel. Same deal on flooded carb engines.
    Sometimes i need to do this cold starting the Ranger after a few 'wants to' start events.
    Does the trick every time.

  12. #12
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    One thought- unlikely, but make sure the rotor is in good shape where it keys into the distributor shaft. I have seen some over the years that egg out and actually allow the rotor to rock backwards on the shaft, retarding timing.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  13. #13
    FEP Power Member SchoolBoy's Avatar
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    I would like to add here that yes if you depress the gas pedal to wot before cranking it will shut the injectors off. This is most helpfull after an oil change as it alows you to crank the motor and build oil pressure before firing it off.
    If you blink at the end of the straight away you'll miss the twisties and what fun would that be!
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  14. #14

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    Can I just say I might continue to buy early model fox bodies because I love this community. I've been on forums for 15 years and this by far is the nicest and most helpful group of contributors I have ever seen.

    I was starting to probe the wires to the TFI module when I figured, "let me just check the plug wires again" since you so many kindly recommended I check again. So I pulled the #1 cylinder and rotated the engine to TDC. SURE ENOUGH I WAS OFF. What a knucklehead.

    My new motorcraft cap coil terminal has blown off too. Not sure where it went or why, but the top(flat part) of the terminal is gone. So I put the old cap back on and wired it properly.

    Started right up! The idle went to 2k but goes down if I press the gas(Like a choke fast idle setting?) It's no longer producing white smoke and sounds good. My goodness I must have switched those plug wires 2 or 3 times and thought I set it to TDC. wowsers.

    Since the gas is about a year old. I changed the fuel filter... didn't screw that up it's still running.

    I'm pumped, I just didn't have time to pull it out of the garage and see how it drives. Fingers crossed.

    Thank you all again. Especially the very polite "check your plug wires" comments.

  15. #15
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    You should be able to adapt a TPS from another application if voltage is all over the place when you test it. Also many TPS can be made adjustable by reaming the screw holes. As long as the voltage range is near spec and operation is smooth and voltage is correct at zero throttle it *should* work.

  16. #16
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBa...=0&cspheader=1

    or just get the correct part.

    Throttle Position Sensor Walker Products 200-1052

  17. #17
    FEP Power Member BLK BRD 88's Avatar
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    Welcome to the forum Ryan.
    Hope to hear that you are happily driving your SVO soon.
    Ron
    I never seem to get the nut that holds the steering wheel fixed

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