The stock thermistor opens up the Low Speed circuit. Once the Ford Contour's AC or Engine Temp block-mounted switch is up to the higher temperature, the fans run at high speed.
I used the Ford Contour wire colors to show how they actually run stock in the relays. The Contour uses 3 relays. That's because the AC relay actually powers up the High Speed signal. That's the SMALL Green/Blue wire going into the green relay, which is powered by the Key-Run wire. On our Fairmonts, we have the Red / Green wire to the ignition coil to do that. Since I modified my in-dash harness to use the 1981 Capri harness, I have the same circuit as the Turbo-4-banger Foxes, so I have the additional Gray Yellow circuit that comes off the Run side with the Red Green wire. That's important. That Grey/Yellow wire has a 20 AMP fuse link (Blue) embedded in the 1981 harness.
It's an easy fix though. The Hood lamp circuit uses a 20 AMP fuse link, attached at the solenoid, so it could be transferred to that use, connected to the 687 Grey/Yellow wire (rear defroster, de-icer circuit). In the Capri EVTM, it changes to circuit number 68 Orange/ Black. That one is used for the Choke Heater for cold starts. Once the engine is warm, the circuit is free to run the small voltage to the Fan relays.
Now my plan is to wire it up for both the temperature controller (to control when the low circuit kicks in) and the stock temperature sender (mounted in the thermostat housing) on the high speed circuit. That will replicate what the Ford Contour circuit does via its Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
I've been doing short runs with no fan, and the car gets up to the AL in NORMAL, but no higher. So if anything, the fans probably won't turn on during the winter, even in city traffic.
I do have a JPG file, but I don't have a new site to share it from.
There are a couple wires that can be cut off: Black/White stripe and Black/Blue stripe from the Ford Relay holders.
Since I have an I-6 3.3L, I had to change my thermostat housing to one that had a threaded hole for the stock temperature switch (handles High Speed fan control). I bought just the switch for the Flex-A-Lite temperature control and connect that to the green relay at blade 1 and blade 2. The green relay has a diode that has a black wire going to ground. That needs to be done to prevent high voltages wreaking havoc on the fans, since they are brushless motors.
I don't use any in-car toggle switches in this setup. The Jeep owners and drag-car folks usually do have them. But the stock thermistor in the fan housing, the block-mounted temp sender, and the Flex-A-Lite switch will practically replicate what the Ford Contour's PCM (Powertrain Control Module) does.
I installed the Ford Contour Fuse/Relay Box on the passenger side, behind the shock tower with a handmade bracket fastened to the tower. I only left the devices and circuits needed for the fans.
The nice thing about that relay holder is that it also holds the big 60 amp fuse and the 2 X 70 amp relays. and has room for other relays, as well as empty fuse sockets.
Makes for a clean installation.
I'll post the pics as soon as I find a site to deposit my pics and share them.
Connect With Us