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Thread: Clutch cable

  1. #1

    Default Clutch cable

    Can anyone recommend a better clutch cable?
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  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    Stock or maximum motorsports.. Only way to go
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  3. #3
    FEP Power Member Mikestang's Avatar
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    ^ Yup. MM cables are great quality
    1986 Ford Mustang GT-

    Not much stock stuff left
    347 NA power, CNC ported heads, Extrude honed Trick Flow Intake, Custom Cam
    Suspension, custom k- member, TQ arm/pan hard rod... Much more
    Restored and ready to race, made to go fast while cornering

    1981 Mustang GT-

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  4. #4

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    Thanks guys........That cable ended my Dream cruise in a flatbed tow truck,lol.!

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Could not agree more!!

    and if you buy a quadrant and firewall adjuster to replace the factory autoadjuster quadrant, only keep that cable as a spare or **it can it. The UPR three prong quadrant works great with my clutch and a MM cable - a child could push it!

    This compared to a big guy like me barely being able to release it with the UPR cable! the cable end on mine did the same thing as yours.

    Mm cable is like butter!

  6. #6

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    I have this adjuster(see pic). Will the MM cable work with that adjuster? And less pedal effort would be nice, I'm running a tko600 with centerforce dual knee cartilage destroyer clutch.
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  7. #7
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Yes it will. Get a three prong quadrant and put the cable nearest the firewall. Shim it as close as you can with the adjuster 3/4 of the way in. The shorter the distance from cable to quadrant while keeping adjustment the better it works!

    My clutch is rated to 450HP and this is what I use. Stupid easy to release now with the MM cable.

    There was another thread recently on clutch cable adjustment. My input is all there and their clutch now works good.

  8. #8

  9. #9

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    Is there a way to adjust the clutch pedal so it sits about 2" lower?

  10. #10
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    There are several ways to go about this

    If you have a factory quadrant and violently pop the clutch it will release the adjustment catch teeth and allow the pedal to continue to travel upward. Now when you go to step on the clutch the quadrant is less rotated and less tension is present on the cable. Can be fine tuned by reaching up under the dash and pulled on. I used to be able to do this while driving when I was a young buck....

    If you have added an adjuster at the firewall turn the adjuster 'in' more. This will remove tension from the cable

    If you have shims at the quadrant or at the release fork removing those will reduce pedal height

    if you have an adjustable pivot ball, tightening it moves the ball towards the back of the car and removes tension on the cable.

    grinding a little off the ear on the bellhousing or the stop on the cable end will remove tension on the cable

    If the flywheel has not been resurfaced ever, resurfacing it will change the location of the pressure plate relative to the pivot ball and therefore remove tension from the cable

    If the flywheel has been shimmed at the back of the crank removing a shim will make the pressure plate further away from the pivot and therefore remove tension.

    etc...
    Last edited by erratic50; 08-20-2017 at 11:50 AM.

  11. #11
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    The simple solution is this.

    Name:  Clutch Pedal Adjuster.JPG
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    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/Cl...2-93-P501.aspx

    I had one installed several years ago and never could get the pedal feel I wanted. Definitely lowered the height of the clutch pedal to even with the brake pedal, so that was nice, but the actual clutch actuation seemed to be too little for good clutch disengagement. I will admit, that I am not 100% that I was using a MM clutch cable at the time, so that could have been the issue. I was running the MM clutch quadrant and the firewall adjuster, but just never could make it "feel" right. I might try it again with my 82 GT since I have the bastardized setup of 1/2 SN95 and 1/2 Fox. Maybe it will work well for that.
    ​Trey

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  12. #12
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Yea - forgot they offer that.

  13. #13

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    I will try that height adjuster out for sure. I'm teaching myself how to heel/toe and left foot brake and the stock pedals on a fox don't seem conducive, especially after checking out modern cars and track cars pedal arrangement. Here's a pic of my brake pedal mod which helped me get it right a few times. But I got it wrong one time and locked em up and straight in the grass I went.
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  14. #14
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    If I understand what you are trying to do it's left foot

    Pedals
    I I g
    \ |
    Feet

    I would

    pedals
    l l g
    | /
    feet

    So I have alway done heel toe on right foot. Toe his the gas, heel on the brake. I've also done it ball of foot on brake, blade on gas. That also works.

    I've never heard of heel toe with the left foot. I've never needed or wanted the pedals at the same height. It's way easier to find the brake in panic stop situations if the clutch pedal is higher.

    if it release where you want it off the floor I wouldn't worry about it.

    Just my take.

    Oh - and if you turn the idle up to 1000-1100 there's never a need to heel toe at all on a V8 car. Just ease out on the clutch when it's go time then switch from brake to gas with your right foot.

    Best regards

  15. #15

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    I was trying to left foot brake like with an automatic(no shifting), so I could leave my right foot on the gas and left on the brake when entering turns without shifting. I can run the track through every turn except two in third gear. But the clutch pedal is in the way. I blocked the brake pedal up so it would be apx level with the gas pedal and I was blipping the gas while braking with the ball of my foot by rotating my ankle. I haven't tried heel/toe because it felt too awkward

  16. #16

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    Back to the clutch cable. Will I need to pull the steering column to get the new cable on the quadrant? There is already an aftermarket quadrant installed.

  17. #17
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    No, but it's a bitch to get the old one off, due to limited space..
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  18. #18

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    ^^well the old one snapped so that won't be a problem. Lol. Does anyone know what brand this cable is?
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  19. #19
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Looks like the pos UPR cable I had. Bury it!

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