Close



Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1

    Default Hydraulic roller cam conversion on non-roller block ?

    I have been doing some research on 302 roller cam conversions and looks like there are a couple different ways to do it. Either reduced base circle retrofit cam and stock roller lifters/stock spider or else a regular 85+ roller cam with the retrofit linkbar lifters....and of course different proper length pushrods. Pros and cons to both methods I guess depending on what your trying to accomplish.

    I dont have any first hand experience with this but assume there are a few people out there on the forums who have done this conversion. I am looking for opinions on how they felt it turned out and what combos/parts they used etc. Most of the literature says roller has several benefits over flat tappet...and logically this would be expected I suppose. One thing I wouldn't want would be a noisy "sewing machine" type valvetrain. I have read different opinions on this as well but my thoughts are a good roller setup should be very quiet...wouldn't it ?

    Any input would be appreciated.

    Thanks

  2. #2
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Waikoloa , Hawaii
    Posts
    1,879

    Default

    There are no negatives to link bar lifters on a conversion. There are a few possible ones using a reduced base circle. Albeit slightly more expensive, the link bars are the way to go.

    Longevity due to less friction and faster ramp rates are the major reasons to convert from flat tappet.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2016
    Location
    Nebraska
    Posts
    4,575

    Default

    be sure your valve springs are up to the task- roller lifters are heavier.

    HO 302 firing order will yield a better running combo usually. Be sure to degree in the cam and check it on multiple holes.

    Also get the most solid pushrod you can get as deflection there causes all sorts of problems.

    Here is a great article on setting up valve train on a SBF so it can spin some R's with the best of them.


    http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...oller-engines/

    Personally I run my stock 86 rotating assembly - a very high miles motor - past 6000 routinely but I don't plan on going past 7000 even with a fresh bullet. A lot of the parts that work well at 1500 like EFI intakes do not cooperate with going past 7000.

    Comp cams will spend some time on the line discussing your goals with you. It's solid info and it's just part of their customer service.

  4. #4

    Default

    Thanks for the input.

    Yeah I agree it looks like the link bar lifters would be the easiest...but not the cheapest of course. Besides I'm not really that crazy about drilling into the lifter valley on my block if it could be avoided.

    I was looking at the howards cam 91168 or Lunati 72335 for a retro lifter. They seem to be the cheaper ones so i'm curious if anyone has any feedback on them ? The edelbrock lifters must be lined with gold or something for their price...haha !!

    After that it looks like all kinds of aftermarket cams with the HO firing order using the full base circle roller etc... just a matter of doing some research for your system like you say....same as it would be for any cam upgrade I suppose.

    I would not be doing not doing an all out race engine here but like the idea of the roller system for some increased performance...and not having to worry as much about the wear issues with flat tappet and/or additives with the new oils etc.

    Good point about the stiffer valve springs for roller and it also looks like I would also need to change distributor gear to steel as well.

    Whats your guys opinion on the hardened cam thrust plate ? Is it really that necessary ? From what I read it appears to me the engine actually thrusts the cam to the rear and it is the cam timing gear face that actually wears against it....so then I gather it must be matched to the hardness of the gear set rather than cam etc ?

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member cb84capri's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    lansing, mi
    Posts
    4,667

    Default

    Howards lifters are made by Morel. They are supposedly really good lifters. Get those ones and forget about that reduced base circle cam nonsense. The stock cam thrust plate is fine. I would suggest picking up an SA Gear timing set with the torrington bearing on it from Woody at fordstrokers.com. Degreeing the cam properly is easy with this set since the crank sprocket has multiple keyways 2 degrees apart. These sets are sold in most big name companies boxes but may have a failure prone Chinese made chain. Anything Woody sells will have a higher quality German made chain. In using this timing set, you will have to countersink the thrust plate mounting holes and use flat head cap screws. Also I had to surface grind my plate a few .001" to get end play in spec.

    Hydraulic roller is the way to go, you don't have to worry about running high ZDDP oils or additives or any of that. Stay away from flat tappets altogether. I did the flat tappet thing on my old 302 and will never do it again.

    Cale

  6. #6

    Default

    Geez, for some reason I feel a winter project brewing...not the first time

  7. #7

    Default

    A few more things to consider:
    Link bar lifters cannot be installed/removed with the heads on.

    Stock (dog bone) setup is limited by maximum amount of lobe lift - dog bone cannot lift off the block at max lobe lift.
    Last edited by Paul1958; 08-18-2017 at 07:52 PM.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •