Is it 100 or 110 ft lbs. ? 4-lug looks like 1/2" stud
Is it 100 or 110 ft lbs. ? 4-lug looks like 1/2" stud
1/2" studs
Wheel torque specs can vary based upon the type of wheel and even the type of lug nut. Steel wheels are generally a higher torque rating than an aluminum wheel.
The specs have varied over the years, but I believe the last one I saw was for a 92 and it was 85-104 ft/lbs.
I generally torque mine to 100 ft/lbs and never had an issue.
Trey
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^thanks.
I also go 100 ft lbs.
I drive mine a few miles and get the brakes damn good and hot on purpose and let them cool. I retorque to 100 again while stuff is cooled off after at least one heat cycle.
When we ran stock car on dirt tracks we had steel wheels. We would ice the center of the wheel then torque 1/2" studs with oversized lugs to 110. We rarely ever got a chance to retorque between heats, but usually by the end of the night or the next day things were still tight where we left them or tighter. Unlike most of the other teams we raced against we never lost any wheels so it worked in that respect.
people make the mistake of installing hot wheels on hot hubs them not going back to check torque. Hardened wheel studs expand very little, wheels expand a lot. And when the rim's hub cools off the lug nuts are barely past finger tight in extreme cases.
this happened to me at Discount Tire with my MarkLT recently. I went in with everything hot from a 300 mile drive, got tires right away, and 100 miles later stopped for dinner. When I went to drive away the truck shook like hell- lugs were barely finger tight. And this with a torque spec of 150.
if you have an old rim and a torch and a caliper you don't care much about try measuring rim at room temp vs 200 degrees +. Very scary actually. My bets are you will never forget to retorque stuff every time from then on!
something to think about.
Last edited by erratic50; 08-17-2017 at 02:32 AM.
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