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  1. #26

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    Ok I sprayed starting fluid. It would have started probably but I didn't spray enough. I have spark at the plugs and electric at the injectors.

  2. #27
    FEP Super Member JTurbo's Avatar
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    Have you tried adding some gas to the tank? Not trying to be a smart ass, but you said earlier that you were not sure if the gauge was reading correctly....
    1979 Indy Pace Car Mustang 302 / 5spd
    1982 Mustang GT T-Top 302 / 4spd
    1986 SVO Mustang - 1C

  3. #28

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    It has a 1/4 tank in it. It has never lied to me before. It started with eather.

  4. #29

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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    It has a 1/4 tank in it. It has never lied to me before. It started with eather.
    are you following the checklist I posted in order?
    It has your answers

  5. #30
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    The ground behind the battery tells the fuel pump to cut off after prime. You said that ground is good, so if it's not cutting off I'd suspect you have a ground issue elsewhere. That same ground is likely causing your TPS to read low voltage. I'd suggest chasing the signal return wire from the ECU forward and find your culprit.
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  6. #31
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    Your injectors are not getting signal to open ..
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  7. #32

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    If you are still getting the exact same low voltage reading from the new tps, you need to make sure that orange wire at the tps has nearly 5 volts. My guess, it won't. If the ECU doesn't see around 1 volt at the tps but instead your super low voltage, it's not going to want to start. Also, if the vref at the tps isn't 5volts, it probably isn't at other sensors that also rely on this voltage to accurately inform the ECU on conditions.

  8. #33
    FEP Super Member 83GTRAG's Avatar
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    At this point my 2 cents......take it to Ford, they will find it in no time..oh you will pay but gremlins will be gone.
    Rob

    current cars:
    83 GT Convertible
    83 Project GT T-Top Coupe
    84 GT T-Top Hatch
    86 GT Hatch low mile car
    00 V-6 Convertible

    all white cars!

  9. #34

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    I can't even get spark plugs at my local ford dealer. I'd have less faith in them figuring out whats wrong.

    Troubleshooting isnt hard if you know what to look for. Everyone has been saying where to look and the op can't be bothered.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  10. #35

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    You can do that but unless your dealership has old school technicians, they will be even more clueless than all of us diagnosing over the internet. Your car is 5 years older than obd2 and all it's scanners and what not. Unlikely anyone at your dealership would even have the knowledge to diagnose a problem without their scanners being able to view and diagnose the car's problem. Maybe your dealership would be able to but in general it's highly unlikely because your car is 25+ years old and doubtful any of the newbs at the dealership even worked on obd1. They're all going to expect the diagnostic computer to tell them what's wrong. When that can't happen, they'll throw parts at it.
    In all honesty, follow the no start checklist posted earlier.if it's the one I've used before, it's split between no fuel and no spark. You've got fuel( although, if the pump doesn't shut off with the key in the run position something is very wrong). I actually copied this check list and put it in the tool box of all my Fords. It really will show the problem but you need to check voltages and ground continuities with a volt meter. These cars are too old to just hope changing parts will fix the issue and testing with a meter isn't all that difficult

  11. #36

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    Well ive gone thru almost to the end of the list. I rented a noid light from Pep Boys and the only light in the kit for a Ford says TBI and the prongs are spaced to far apart to fit the injector harness. My brother in law is on his honeymoon. So when he gets back I'll have him look at it. I'm going to start looking for a bad ground.
    It seems odd to me that a ground would just suddenly without warning go bad. There were no indications of any electrical problem whatsoever.
    The checklist is definetely very helpful as it helped me eliminate a lot of problems.

  12. #37

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    Sounds like the map sensor/box honestly.

    usually those throw codes when they die but not always.

    But if it's bad it will crank and act like it's going to start but never does run.

    Ive burned off coil wires before and had it no longer run.

    Ive had the ignition stator in the distributor suddenly fail and produce a no start condition

    Rotors inside the dizzy sometimes break and cause no spark

    Just a few thoughts.

  13. #38
    FEP Super Member sowaxeman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dagenham View Post
    It has a 1/4 tank in it. It has never lied to me before. It started with eather.
    It can and it will lie to you at some point...the senders in these tanks are not fool proof. Easy test will be to dump 2-3 gallon in the tank from a can. Dealing with Gremlins is a process of elimination....eliminate this variable.
    Jason Smith
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    '93 LX Yellow/Black Summer Feature - 2,700 Mile Original Survivor
    '05 S-281 Mineral Grey - 16k miles @ counting.

  14. #39

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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    Sounds like the map sensor/box honestly.

    usually those throw codes when they die but not always.

    But if it's bad it will crank and act like it's going to start but never does run.

    Ive burned off coil wires before and had it no longer run.

    Ive had the ignition stator in the distributor suddenly fail and produce a no start condition

    Rotors inside the dizzy sometimes break and cause no spark

    Just a few thoughts.
    I have had most of these happen over the years as well but he said it runs on starting fluid. (post #28 ) So ASSUMING that is true, that rules all of the above out.

  15. #40

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    I never took away that it runs from starting fluid but that it almost does - it tries. I'd give it some fuel by squirting it into the intake at WOT then crank again. It should definitively run for at least a 1/2 second or it does not eliminate the map sensor if it acts like it wants to but never does. Or..... hmms - remembering my fight with my are even that might not eliminate map at all on second thought. Mine showed no codes and "ran" when given fuel.

    Anyway - the things I mentioned are the main things I am aware of that are slightly less clear than others on the list the URL to Stangnet provided.

    Devoid of any other background I'd throw a known good map on from another running car if possible.

    my next move? I would make sure the dizzy is towards #1 when the motor is at TDC every other rotation. If it's mysteriously out of wack it could be cam timing has jumped but that's exceptionally rare on 302s. Should show up in a compression test though too because valve timing will be way off.

    I had a coil become weak one time too. The car ran fine until I shut it off then never refired from cold. Swapped coils and away it went
    again.

    The hidden value of having more than one 5.0L mustang around.
    Last edited by erratic50; 07-27-2017 at 09:53 AM.

  16. #41

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    There is a ground at the back of the block? Correct? If there is, I will start my ground search there by making a new ground wire. But where does it go from the block?

  17. #42
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    Ground on back of head to the firewall .
    Buy those flat braided ground straps at the part store , that is all you need .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  18. #43

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    The computer ground joins along with the negative battery cable at the fender near the starter solenoid. This will go down to the timing chain cover near the oil filter. Check for resistance at pins 20 40 and 60 on the computer and see what ya get.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  19. #44
    FEP Supporter cb84capri's Avatar
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    My wife filled up at a gas station we had never gone to before and got a bunch of water in her tank at the same time... Car drove home fine, sat in the driveway over night and we caught all hell the next morning when all that water settled to the bottom of the tank. Car barely ran, and it wasn't throwing codes. It was an 03 Grand Marquis. I eventually ran the car long enough trying to troubleshoot it that it got through the water and purred like it never happened. If you can get some gas out of the fuel rail you could try running it in a push lawnmower to see what happens. Shouldn't hurt it. I got my push mower for cheap because it wouldn't run on a full tank of water.

    Cale

  20. #45

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    My brother in law brought a fuel pump, dizzy, and a '94 ECM over. The first two did nothing. We plugged the 94 ECM in and the car fired but wouldn't run. And I had 1 volt at the tps. So I guess I'm off to find an A9P ECM.
    I opened the case up but I didn't see anything that looked burnt or broken but I am not a computer person.
    So with all that said I'm keeping my fingers crossed.

  21. #46

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    First let me say thank you to everyone that was helping me with this problem. I ordered an ECM at Autozone on Monday and was told it would be two days. This was after I was told there were none available anywhere on Sunday. I haven't received the new part yet though. It's paid for but I kept the core until the new one is in the car and the car is running again.
    Has anyone else run into this problem recently and if so how did it end??

  22. #47
    FEP Super Member
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    It is the capacitors that leak and go bad.
    They are very cheap to replace , and quite easy .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  23. #48

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    Well the ecm is in and the car is running. Thanks again guys for the help. i kept the core. It was only $50. I'll keep it and maybe see about getting it fixed. You never know.

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