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  1. #1

    Question Replace fusible links

    Gm all ,i wasnt sure which forum to put this under so please forgive me .my question is for those that have done the wire tuck on there cars .did you replace the fusible links with circuit breakers or fuses or relays just trying to get a feel for what people have done .im in the process of relocating the wires on my 86 gt to the inner fender area and would like to change a few things up with the fuse links ie make things a little more simple to hook up . RR

  2. #2

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    I'm looking at using maxi fuses in place of the fusible links. I had a good discussion on here about it, but i can't seem to find it now. Some guys think it's a bad idea since fusible links are tried and true technology, but I guess I just can't leave well enough alone. I have all the stuff i need to do it, now i just need to get the time. I have some more info if you're interested.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  3. #3

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    Hello thanks for your response yes Im interested in more info on your conversion plan thanks alot

  4. #4

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    Here's some stuff from a guy doing the same.



    This is the power distribution from a '95 Mustang GT. I thought it would be helpful because it's how the factory essentially did the same thing.



    And this is my plan. I tended to err on the side of caution with lower numbered fuses just in case. I can always go up in number if I end up blowing fuses over and over, haha.

    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  5. #5

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    Oh, and the describing letters in my first column refer to their ID letter in the original EVTM.

    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  6. #6

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    Hey thanks for this info its very helpful .im with you on the using lower fuse numbers and see how they handle the load . Better to blow it under those conditions then to have a melt down . Strang thing is that ford used a 20 amp circuit breaker for power window /seats but every thing else was cool with fuselink even the alternator feed go figure

  7. #7

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    Yeah, it's goofy. I'm much more comfortable with blade fuses.
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  8. #8

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    The only time ive had an issue with a fuseable link was when i was 16, didnt know anything about cars and swapped in a new battery, backwards...

    I would go with a circuit breaker, that way at least you can just click a reset button if you have an issue instead of being stuck in the middle of no where looking for a maxi fuse.

    When i was up in Montana, we were finishing a big job and night before we were supposed to leave, we celebrated by going out for drinks in the same parking lot as our hotel. Long story short, i met up with the guys later so i drove my 87 tbird there and parked out front of the bar.

    I didnt realize the beer we ordered (got what the local guys recommended) was 12%. Living in utah, we only sell 3% beer, so when i thought i was only drinking the equivalent of a beer or two, i was really drinking 4-8. I sobered up in the parking lot for a few hours turning the car on when i got cold (was -18 to -27ºf the whole time we were there, plus wind chill). Well i fell asleep with the dash lights on and the car wouldn't start.

    I walked over to the hotel, got our diesel truck and pulled the jumper cables out. Turns out, earlier that day a guy accidentally ripped the jumper cables end off and replaced them, but didnt make sure they were right, and sure enough, they were reversed.

    I couldn't understand why my head lights turned on and the car cranked but it wouldn't start. Pulled out my volt meter, and sure enough, battery was reverse charged. I reversed the battery and the car started, but wasn't charging. Checked the fuseable links and they were almost all fried, along with a bunch of fuses.

    This town was 12 miles from the border of Canada and had a population of 500 people or so. Nearest town was probably 100 miles or more round trip. They had the hotel we were staying at, a bar, two truck stops and a grocery store. I waited for the grocery store to open up and found a "heavy duty" Christmas extension cord in the discount bin. I bought it, and wired it in directly to the alternator fuseable link wires, twisting wires together, then drove to a truck stop and bought the only pack of fuses, 30 amps, and swapped in the stuff i needed.

    Long story short, i was so embarresed i didnt tell anyone what happened. They all assumed i woke up early as i was buttoning up the electrical cord in tape and we loaded up and drove the 19 hours home.

    At the very least, you want something you can reset or ghetto rig.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  9. #9

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    Some story! Great job getting yourself out of that one! I'm not sure I would've been able to do the same.

    The only thing about circuit breakers is, they worry me a bit because why didn't the factory use them (say in the case of a '95)? They seem too good to be true. Something that will protect your circuit, but you never have to replace? Sign me up! Y'know?

    ... oh, and your story does kind of make my point about fusible links being harder to find than fuses...
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  10. #10
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    Circuit breakers are far more expensive than fuses, and manufacturers are, shall we say, thrifty. Plus, fuses are 100% garaunteed to function, and there is a slim but present chance a breaker will not once it ages.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
    5.0, GT40P heads, Comp Cams XE270HR-12 on 1.6 rockers, TFI spring kit, Weiand 174 blower, Holley 750 mechanical secondarys, Mishimoto radiator, Edelbrock street performer mechanical pump, BBK shortys, T-5 conversion, 8.8 rear, 3.73 gears, carbon fiber clutches, SS Machine lowers, Maximum Motorsport XL subframes, "B" springs.

  11. #11
    FEP Senior Member BMW Rider's Avatar
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    Use either the fusible links or a main fuse. The purpose for the fusible links is to protect the wiring and car from fire in the event of a short to ground in the electrical system. They are not circuit protection devices and thus a circuit breaker is not suitable. Fusible links are really just a fusible wire with a special heat resistant insulation that will remain intact when the wire burns through. This ensures that the wire ends remain insulated after the link burns through. They should be rated well above the current draw for the wiring they are protecting as they are expected to protect in only extreme circumstances.

  12. #12
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I suggest blow evident fuses and waterproof fuse holders. Crush metal connectors around the wires then solder them in place. Tape sucks - be sure to use shrink tube like come with many replacement links.

  13. #13

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    Very useful information ,thanks to everyone who has chimed in .

  14. #14

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    Had a crank but no start condition a few months ago and found partly due to bad fusible link by starter relay.

    I replaced this with in line fuse and put 30 amp fuse in it.
    I used but connectors, electrical tape and zip ties.

    Has worked fine since and looks significantly cleaner.

  15. #15
    FEP Senior Member droopie85gt's Avatar
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    I am about to tackle this myself. I'll post details and pics in my build thread.
    1985 GT, Sunroof, 5 Lug, Rear Discs, 01 Graphite Bullets, 88 forged piston shortblock, 2.02/1.60 Alum heads, Weiand Stealth, Holley C950 TBI, BBK Long tubes

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