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  1. #1

    Default 2.3T No Spark, out of ideas

    Hey guys, the end of this build has been frustrating to say the least. The motor is from a 1988 Turbo Coupe and I am having issues getting the coil to fire. Below is a list of things I know
    -----------
    Coil has 12V
    ICM has 12V with key on and start wire has 12V when cranking
    Coil voltage drops to 6 or 7 when cranking... which is weird.
    The distributor spins
    The distributor is brand new, so is the module
    I have a known working module from a working car and it makes no difference
    Test light is showing zero spark from the coil while cranking
    The spout and pip wires go to their proper locations and seem to be undamaged
    I can sometimes get the coil to spark once by rotating the distributor by hand
    -------------

    What is bugging me is the voltage drop at the coil during cranking. I am thinking that 7 volts is not enough to fire the coil. I have no idea why its dropping that low during cranking.

  2. #2

    Default

    http://sbftech.com/index.php?topic=588.0

    "How to solve an efi no start"
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  3. #3

    Default

    Went through the list, many times. The coil, module, and distributor are brand new. They all have voltage to the proper location. The coil even sparks when rotating the distributor by hand.

    HOWEVER, when I crank the motor... there is no spark. The voltage to the coil drops below operating levels. "Out of ideas" implies that I've been through the basics, made an LED test light, used the "search" function. I need a little bit more insight than a no start list.

  4. #4
    FEP Power Member ccurtin's Avatar
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    Default

    Have you looked at the threads on TurboFord about 'no spark'? Lots of 2.3T specific information over there.

    http://forum.turboford.org/ubb/ultimatebb.php
    I'm an FEP Paid Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

    1984 Capri Turbo RS - Alive after 7 years! Build Thread
    2018 Mustang GT - daily driver

  5. #5

    Default

    Check coil resistance values, plugs/coil wire resistance/continuity?...
    Mike
    1986 Mustang convertible ---> BUILD THREAD
    Past Fox-chassis "four eyes":
    1983 Mercury Cougar LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird ELAN
    1980 Capri RS Turbo

    Work in progress website ---> http://carb-rebuilds-plus.boards.net/

  6. #6
    FEP Power Member 4-barrel Mike's Avatar
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    In the past, I've screwed the wiring of several hot rods by not wiring the ignition with the starter engaged. Have you tried starting it with a remote starter switch on the starter solenoid?

    Mike

  7. #7

    Default

    Just because a part is brand new doesn't mean it works.

    That link shows you how to trouble shoot every part that will keep the car from running, including the coil. But if its all new and you know what you are doing and exactly what's wrong, then nevermind, i wont help ya fix it.
    2 1986 cougars (both 4 eyed and 5.0)
    1 1987 cougar

  8. #8
    FEP Senior Member E2ZZGLX's Avatar
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    Fuseable links at the solenoid? Last 2 turbo cars I picked up after the PO swapped out most everything and gave up on them found both cars had one or more blown...and they "looked" good.
    Current keepers...
    77 Cobra II

    80 Bobcat Sport
    82 GT-first new car is back home!
    85 ASC Coupe
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  9. #9
    FEP Supporter
    82GTforME's Avatar
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    How about the engine grounds?

    Are you using the original ignition system wiring or parts of it? What you are describing about the voltage drop sounds like the ballast resistor in the ingnition.

    I'm not super familiar with them but do they not limit voltage when the key is in the "run" position not crank? Or is it the other way around and this is correct?
    Quote Originally Posted by Travis T View Post
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    Darran
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