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  1. #26
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Amended above....

    If you have to go electric, you need to work out your steps and have the gear for next to nothing to do it. Its a little work, not impossible. If you carry a spare pump, and a Class Four muti meter, you won't have any issues.

  2. #27
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by webestang View Post
    I have that same set up. I sent my carb to guaranteed carbs in Florida and had it rebuilt for $168, relocated the TFI to the fender, took the emissions stuff off and added a tube header.
    Here is some info on the Carter YFA.... http://www.carburetor-parts.com/Cart...al_ep_317.html
    The correct limk is "http://www.guaranteedcarburetors.com/category/FC14/Ford-Mercury-Cars-4-Cylinder-1-Barrel-Carter/1.html"

    Quote Originally Posted by webestang View Post
    When my YFA started to go out I tried to rebuild it....I failed. I was told by many people just have mine pro-rebuilt or buy a rebuilt one because the YFA are very picky. I went ahead and just bought a rebuilt one for $168 from these guys, bolt on and drive and it's been great for 2 years now.
    Not sure but you could contact these guys and ask about more specs...?
    http://www.guaranteedcarburetors.com...-Carter/1.html

    You saved my life with this info.

    So did OldsRocket442

    Quote Originally Posted by OldsRocket442 View Post
    1986 Mustang

    So tonight on the way home I stopped at a red light and all of a sudden I had steam from under the dash. First thought was heater core...but the majority of the steam was coming from the driver side.

    I get to a parking lot and check it out. No water on the carpet anywhere. I check under the hood and don't see anything. Go into the store for a little while to let it cool down. Come back out and check radiator.....almost empty.

    Go to a friends house and put some water in it and as fast as i'm putting water in....its coming out of this nipple....Straight below the throttle cable next to the electrical plug.


    Close up


    What does this nipple go to?????

    I ended up putting a rubber cap over it with a hose clamp just to get it home. I had no heat the whole way home (about 8 miles) and the temp gauge never rose off of cold.

    While I was looking for this I noticed this connector on the carb. Close to the hold down nut. Green and black stripes on it.



    Close up


    What is it and is there supposed to be a plug that plugs in? I didn't see one anywhere, but it was also dark. I'm going to look into it more in the day light this weekend.
    Mixture Control Solenoid, and MAP, TPS and other PCV/EGR sensors to the EECIV controller. It works only if the pintle on the MCS doesn't shear off. People opt out of YFA's too soon because the FeedBack carbs are very different, with special two step metering rods, anti rocking plates, and plastic parts, and no one gets how the MCS operates...its just like an ISC controller, only it changes the air fuel ratio from rich to lean by slowly spiking the float bowl with incomming air.


    They work fine if you understand that part. Anthing else that goes offline, you have to reset TPS and drop the codes to check. The 4 cylinder solenoid is around if you look, but normally, the viton sheathing splits off, and jambs inside the carb. You need to know what it lookes like and do some FOD Officer scrunging around, which often means a full disassemble.


    I'd give Ford 9 out of 10 for this. When its good, its very good, but went its bad, its in worse than Marilyn Monroe on 5 August 1962...


    The probelm was, the YFA Carter may only be a 1-bbl, but it was a very intellignetly designed carb, esepcially after the 1967 revision. If you've worked on other Carters and Rochester Quadrjets and Dual Jets and Varajets, then you'll find it easy to follow the instructions, but if its been messed with, wow, its a pest.


    People mess with it becasue


    1. everyone things Thick Film Ignition is the problem. Its not. As long as there is contionity and SPOUT, then its all good

    2. And everyone thinks the Feedback carb is the problem. Its not, it's just the MCS valve andhow it fails thats the issue. The lack of info on the metering rod and how its differes from the other YFA's is the problem.

    3. Then "oh, it must be the EECIV....". Sometimes, the pesky earthing issues create the problem. Down here in NZ, all Ford Falcon EECIV techs know to add a better earth.

    Over Fords kingdoms world wide, the carb cars from 1985 to 1992 got a lot of the TPS/MAF Knock Sensor kind of controls under EECIV, and if it threw a sensor out, it would be locked into a 10 degree advance, and it would run like a sack of cattle doo doo. 2.0 Liter European Pinto engines, Aussie 4.1 2-bbl carb engines, same deal.

    So it would be back to the dealer, and they'd fix it. Nowdays, the depth of inforamtion only exists with offroaders and truck guys, AMC, Jeepsters, F truck forums and I6 forums. Most of what I learned was from webestang, evenstang, OldsRocket442, and purely because there was so much miss-information from the all in one "Autozone, diagram Fig XX".

    "http://www.autozone.com/repairguides/" etc

    Sadly, there is no one ready reader for the YFA's, 1946, 1949, or 6149/6153 on autozone.com. They use Ford supplied info, and its sadly "lumped-in" with Fords most complicated carbs known to mankind, the 2700 and 7200 Motorcraft, and the simplest, the 2100/2150. Then there is the YFA and CFi, plus MCU and EEC II, III, IV controls just to totally mess up the mash up. I'm an engineering technician, and it took me 5 years to get on top of this stuff.

    People also repaint the engines, chop and change carb parts entirely , decide they don't want the AIR pump, secondary air, the primary cat, or remove the A/C or put a later model engine in an try to jumper bits form 1970's cars to it. KnightMARE!

    The only thing that helped me was the Jay Storer Propane book, and then the Impco Techncial Service Bulletins from 1984...that at least gives you an over-view of the systems that you can then eliminate from the Ford documents. Maliase? You betcha!


    And you get this kind of stuff too, where people have use the earlier years 200 or later years 250 or even 300 truck carbs on a Fox body...they bolt right on, you know, have the same size venturi and throttle, yet each year from 1978 to 1983, there were rampant changes that just slay you.

    Replacing with a Holley 350 or Holley Weber 5200, well, it can work okay.

  3. #28

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    Help me out here, is this supposed to be behind a kick plate or up in dash?


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  4. #29
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    YIKES! Should be in the kick panel. When I removed the panel in 88 to change carpet it had all that wiring neatly tucked away back there.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  5. #30

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    Before and after of this disaster setup for headlights and fan


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  6. #31
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    And Yikes again!!! LOL

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  7. #32

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    Got annoyed and pulled dash... splices everywhere... also no computer


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  8. #33
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    Oh my.....it's such a shame when idiots hack away, good luck to you.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  9. #34
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    You can conquer this, maybee not easily, but you can do it.

    Std Ford rule 1. Wiring runs from pinout to pin out, but for any year, anything can change within the wiring cluster. Literally, anything.


    Std Ford rule 2. Ford wires cars in the factory to suit whatever parts the suppliers buy in for Fords let out contracts, and the whole bundles can be unbundled, or the wire codes swapped.


    Std Ford rule 3. Just like a cable runner for a chocolate factory machine install, the cables run from the terminal part, back to to the supply. The whole cable batches are sorted backwards, and if you’re building components to succeed reliably, an easy cable code swap fixes any problem. That why Ford changes everything. It’s about keeping the Wonka Vision going; it doesn't have to relate to any other model year.

    Brocks 84 Rewire, not one real part of the Ford EVTM or Haynes or whatever grocery list is ever 100% right.

    see http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-work-in-83-GT



    Any other wiring loom patch in will have other issues to contend with.


    For example, if its stick shift or non model year 2.3,

    then not required 86 5 speed 5.0 parts like the wide open throttle cut off, upshift indicator, will make evetything all different in detail...

    Your main question is 'do I have offstreet parking" and " can I make the core parts work while doing a loom swap".

    Because its not fuel injected, yes you can, and it'll be easiER, but not eaZEE.

    Fords of that era were wired fluid....there were running changes with lots of the solenoids being changed from normally open to normally close and vice versa. Certain major parts of the dash...even though the wire up, they "not workie'.

    Ford Production costs were very low compared to other automakers, because of the wiring gage and coating, and the abilty to use similar looking parts, but rewire the pinouts could be randomly different.

    If you've had wirng issues, then another 86 loom will make some things worse, but we can tell you whats different.

    Your main issue is shorts, and that the wiring WILL be totally different to the Electric and Vacuum Troble Shooting schematics, the Haynes manuals, and MINUTELY different to everyone elses 86.

    Plenty of people consider Japanese Dis-embowelment as a better option than a rewire using the Ron Francis kit, but it might help.

    I've posted Page 19 before, where Brock and Trey discuss the wiring matters.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...-Thread/page19
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ire-85-mustang
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...=bob%20francis

    So go ahead, but it'll take a lot of time smoothening it out. The advice is get a area of pavement or cement undercover, and map out the loomb, then photo, ask questions, then DO


    Map the wiring out like this, and don't use the orginal wiring at all.

    No Orginal Wiring At ALL
    From Page 19

    "http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthread.php?169780-My-1984-GT-Refurbish-Upgrade-Thread/page19"



  10. #35

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    Basically I am working in maybe 3-5 hr increments either cause I start losing my train of thought or I get hot. I'm currently pursuing a 1993 4 cylinder donor but I haven't decided exactly who's donating to who yet. I prefer the 4 eye look and the dash and console system. But that doesn't matter right now until I actually take possession I will continue to rewire. Everyone that visits looks at it with fear... I've gotten the front lights isolated and working. I'm currently evaluating the excessive amounts of unused sensors... the fan is going to run via relay from ignition. So that eliminates 1 sensor. However I don't have any idea what stock coolant lines look like. Mind looks like:
    So any stock pictures I'd appreciate. The battery is switching to drivers side similar the v6 rewire referenced in this thread to simplify my duraspark system. Dash came out because I got tired of chasing rewires and cut lines. I've also got a resistor board on the lines on my gauge cluster I've got to figure out. There is a random wire running from close to where comp would plug to the back of car and down towards tank. I'm guessing that's a splice for fuel level. Tomorrow when I pick up new motor mounts, I've got to get a longer cable for starter so the solenoid can be moved. As I've been under hood I've noticed a lot of oil residue.... I'm hoping it's not a leak... I doubt that all makes sense but the gist is could use pictures of coolant lines stock and any argument as to why I shouldn't eliminate the fan temp sensor switch and the inline water temp sensor pictured above and just run my gauges off of the sensor on the block.


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  11. #36
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Okay. All webestang's pictures have fallen off the PhotoBucket, so these are low resulution chached images from the net



    webeStang_002.jpg


    webeStang_001.jpg


    Seams like all the mods are "well intentioned modifcations with poor application due to budget".


    The H piece is a simple method of creating a flow restrictor and a method to bleed out entrained air. Done it many times myself.

    Follow OldsRocket442, ethanstang and webestang's stock system.







  12. #37
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    THX....Xctasy

    Tomorrow I can get some new shots of my engine for ya.....I now have a Flicker account.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  13. #38

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    Ok so where the H shaped piping a restriction to flow is supposed to be? Mu understanding of how they plumbed this is as follows:
    Off thermostat housing, into H with 2 sensors, into firewall, out the firewall, main line goes to block but a T line goes to my choke and then out choke into intake manifold. I have an electric choke in mail. So can I eliminate the T line to the choke complete now? I wish to eliminate that line and the H piping if at all possible.


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  14. #39
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfj0002 View Post
    I have an electric choke in mail. So can I eliminate the T line to the choke complete now? I wish to eliminate that line and the H piping if at all possible.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yes, just keep the manifold line.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  15. #40

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    Quote Originally Posted by webestang View Post
    Yes, just keep the manifold line.
    Ok so I do have to run into manifold.... sigh.... so hard to declutter


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  16. #41

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    Ok maybe I'm dumb for trying but I've relocated battery and ran new starter cable... just enough that theoretically starter should turn over. Power in cab, push in clutch, turn key and..... loud click no power. Adjust grounds powers back up. Try again, click.. no power... I miss something?
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  17. #42

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    Improper grounds. She turns over. Time to start trimming


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  18. #43
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    So the battery is where the washer fluid bottle should be.

    Here are some shots of mine as of today. I'm still in the process of eliminating my heat as I only drive this one in good weather.
    Attached Images Attached Images     

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  19. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by webestang View Post
    So the battery is where the washer fluid bottle should be.

    Here are some shots of mine as of today. I'm still in the process of eliminating my heat as I only drive this one in good weather.
    So it looks like you've bypassed heater core. I see the T that has a line that runs to back, what does it run to?


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  20. #45
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jfj0002 View Post
    So it looks like you've bypassed heater core. I see the T that has a line that runs to back, what does it run to?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    It's the coolant line for the intake manifold.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  21. #46

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    Webestang- how did you get your EEC-IV system to still work after elimination of the air pump, oxygen sensor, and a few other items?
    86 Mercury Capri GS 2.3L
    11 Ford Ranger XL 2.3L
    10 Ford Focus SE 2.0L




    19 Years of Foureyedpride.com

  22. #47
    FEP Super Member webestang's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ethangsmith View Post
    Webestang- how did you get your EEC-IV system to still work after elimination of the air pump, oxygen sensor, and a few other items?
    I'm not sure. After I removed the air pump (still have a non-air tube cat), EGR (blocked all passages off) and O2 sensor (wire just cut and placed in loom) it still ran like it did before I removed all that stuff. It is a bit hard to start but once it warms up it runs great. System still uses a charcoal can for tank fumes and the TFI which I have on the fender apron using a relocate kit. All other v-lines are in tacked. Timing is bumped up a bit to help with idle.
    Only thing I have noticed, gas mileage is way down 14-15 in the city.

    Scotty
    1985 Fox Notch 4-banger Ranger tube header Eastwood Royal Blue
    1988 Fox LX 5.0 AOD Vert BBK 170mph speedo Candy Apple Red
    1999 Mustang Coupe V6 Auto Chrome Yellow -Daily Driver.
    Past Pony's.....
    68 Coupe Inline-6 3-Speed-Man. Primer
    78 II Hatch 302 3-Speed-Auto Sunroof Black
    81 4-Eye Coupe 4-Banger 4-Speed-Man. White

  23. #48

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    Interesting. I wonder what exactly it takes to get the computer to go into fail-safe and not advance timing. My guess is there are a ton of codes in the computer, but it hasn't lost anything crucial to engine timing, so it will still do that. So now I'm wondering if the EEC-IV system would still work to control ignition timing if you got rid of the throttle position sensor and idle switch on the idle control motor?
    86 Mercury Capri GS 2.3L
    11 Ford Ranger XL 2.3L
    10 Ford Focus SE 2.0L




    19 Years of Foureyedpride.com

  24. #49

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    Quote Originally Posted by ethangsmith View Post
    Interesting. I wonder what exactly it takes to get the computer to go into fail-safe and not advance timing. My guess is there are a ton of codes in the computer, but it hasn't lost anything crucial to engine timing, so it will still do that. So now I'm wondering if the EEC-IV system would still work to control ignition timing if you got rid of the throttle position sensor and idle switch on the idle control motor?
    I mean you can run duraspark and run your own lines for certain Gage's. That's what was done in mine and it ran... tomorrow I should have it running again no computer.


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  25. #50

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    Quote Originally Posted by ethangsmith View Post
    Interesting. I wonder what exactly it takes to get the computer to go into fail-safe and not advance timing. My guess is there are a ton of codes in the computer, but it hasn't lost anything crucial to engine timing, so it will still do that. So now I'm wondering if the EEC-IV system would still work to control ignition timing if you got rid of the throttle position sensor and idle switch on the idle control motor?
    I mean you can run duraspark and run your own lines for certain Gage's. That's what was done in mine and it ran... tomorrow I should have it running again no computer.


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