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  1. #1

    Smile 372rwhp/349rwtq Stock Bottom End 302 N/A

    *MODS, IF THIS IS MISPLACED, MY APOLOGIES*

    Hi gents!


    Took the old 302 to the dyno today since installing my most recent cam from Ed Curtis @ FTI.


    Just a little background on my previous setup - a previous cam from Ed (from an old combo with AFR 165 heads and a Cobra intake) with Trick Flow 190 11Rs, Holley SM2, 1-3/4 used MAC longtubes, summit universal 3" X-pipe. 4.10 gears, 80mm MAF and home-made 4 inch MAF. Even with the old mismatched cam, it put down 350/341 and ran 11.8 @ 116. Let me say from the get go, I made it clear that this car is driven a lot. It's no 500 mile/year show car or race car. It's made several trips across the midwest (I am near St. Louis) to Louisville, KY Des Moines, IA, it goes everywhere.



    Told Ed what I wanted - a cam to take advantage of the induction and exhaust system I am using, with a broad powerband, and I let him know I am not afraid to rev my stock bottom end to 6700ish, give or take.



    Below is the dyno sheet, I'm working on uploading the dyno video.




    https://youtu.be/lYU2KzQaW7c

    Don't mind the smoke in the video, just my 137k mile rear main seal that likes to make itself known when high RPMs are in order, spitting a little oil on my exhaust.

    Only difference between the setup I mentioned above (before cam) and new is a new electric water pump, and of course the cam. The powerband is broad and fun, I am already making 300 ft-lbs of torque before 3k RPM, and this dyno run was only done once because you could hear in person (and sort of see the mini-dip it takes in the graph right before 6430 which is where peak power is) that I am likely experiencing valve float - I am on the stock springs that came with the head, out of the box, and the air/fuel log on my dyno run shows the 2 banks differing quite a bit and jumping all over the graph after 6400 rpms.



    The heads are straight from the box 190 11Rs with 56cc chambers with no porting, and the lower intake of the SM2 essentially has light porting to help match the heads, and cleaned up casting flash in the upper. Also, when I say stock bottom end - I mean the oil pan has never even been off of the motor.



    This car was bought as a bone stock 86 GT, and I installed all parts myself. There is no weight intentionally taken out of the car (stuff like aluminum heads/radiator lost some, as well as smog removal), and it has power steering, A/C, power windows and locks - in other words, it is the definition of a street car and the manners reflect this as well. It's a 1.5 hour drive to and from the tuner, and it purred like a kitten smoothly at 2,000 rpms on the interstate to (yes, even untuned) and from the appointment. I repeatedly beat the piss out of it on the way home when I had stretches of open road, and it just begs for more!



    Can't wait to install a set of springs and go hunting for some 120mph trap speeds.
    Light Regatta Blue 1986 Mustang GT 5sp - bone stock....block and rotating assembly.

  2. #2
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    qikgts's Avatar
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    Nice numbers! Sounds like a fun combo!
    '85 GT

  3. #3

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    That's quite impressive! I was thinking about going to a custom cam, but have no idea where to even start. Looks like Ed Curtis may be a good resource. What does FTI stand for?
    Tony

  4. #4

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    Flowtech Induction, if you go to the site he has a cam tech form you fill out. Super easy.

    Thanks for the nice words!
    Light Regatta Blue 1986 Mustang GT 5sp - bone stock....block and rotating assembly.

  5. #5

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    Stout numbers and torque curve! I like your combo very much and I'd like to build something similar.

    How are the TF 190's down low? Is the combo unhappy off-idle on the street? I'm guessing the 4.10's help wind it up quickly.

  6. #6

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    It drives like stock. Literally. Aside from being louder with a lumpy idle, I have an 80mm throttle body and can still get rolling and cruise at low RPM perfectly tame.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Light Regatta Blue 1986 Mustang GT 5sp - bone stock....block and rotating assembly.

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member Ourobos's Avatar
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    Previous numbers on the same dynojet?
    1986 CHP SSP Coupe

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Here it was

    Quote Originally Posted by rock4451 View Post
    Hi guys,

    Just finished up my car a couple weeks ago, got it tuned today - I wasn't actually there but the tuner texted me a sheet and numbers. It made 350RWHP @ 5900 and 341RWTQ at 5050. Here is the dyno sheet - sorry about the qualify, phone pic of a computer monitor.



    The parts:

    -Bone stock 1986 bottom end/block
    -Trick Flow 190 11R Heads - 56cc - compression ~10.4:1, 7.2" Chromoly Trick Flow Pushrods, Comp Pro Magnum 1.6 rockers, same springs/locks/retainers/seals that came on the heads
    -Holley Systemax 2 Intake - lower ported by Matt Moss, upper TB inlet opened to 80mm by me - 80mm BBK throttle body.
    -Homemade 102mm air intake pipe/MAF in one - Ethyl Cat welded it up for me - thanks, Steve.
    -FTI Cam - lift in the .580s, duration in the 220s, LSA 111. Had it in my last car and it drove perfect, good vacuum, very streetable (THANKS ED!)
    -MAC 1-3/4" Longtube Headers
    -Dr.Gas O/R X Pipe
    -Dynomax Ultraflow Mufflers - 2.5"
    -4.10 rear end gears - installed myself


    95% of the car was built by me in the garage - had a local shop install the cam since financially it was more feasible than doing it myself (no tools for it) and they are a very reputable shop that builds race engines. The gears were a first-time venture for me, so the fact that it doesn't whine and the install was a success - I'm very happy. Can't wait to drive this baby! Due to the amount of PTV clearance these heads have, I could have upped the compression some more, but decided against it in order to keep by DCR in the street-friendly range.

    Car was tuned by Bob Monks (aka Bobcat) in Leadington, MO at his shop STL Mustangs. Very good people there!

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by rock4451 View Post
    It drives like stock. Literally. Aside from being louder with a lumpy idle, I have an 80mm throttle body and can still get rolling and cruise at low RPM perfectly tame.
    Awesome. Modern cam grinds have helped a lot with street manners. I'll keep FTI in mind.

  10. #10

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    Yes, both on same dyno.
    Light Regatta Blue 1986 Mustang GT 5sp - bone stock....block and rotating assembly.

  11. #11

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    Thanks man for posting! That's a bad bitch! Goals brother! You give me goals!
    1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
    95 Cobra, Crystal White

  12. #12

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    Thanks Supersonic!

    My goal with this car is to remind these new cars not to sleep on old stock block 302s
    Light Regatta Blue 1986 Mustang GT 5sp - bone stock....block and rotating assembly.

  13. #13

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    Wow thats really impressive!
    Brian R. of Michigan
    83 TBird 5.0
    88 Ranger 2.3t
    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...83-Tbird-build

  14. #14
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    Great reminder that you don't have to do a high dollar Coyote or LS swap to make great power. Same thing Ive been saying for YEARS. Honestly I could make a case for going the other way. The old pushrod motors stroked within reason make big power even in N/A form and are damn near indestructible. And use a lot less oil. I don't want to know how bad the Coyote's will be once they are old- those low tension rings are less than ideal for sure in that department.

    Im working on building something very similar. Mine will be a low miles 90 302 short block topped with small chamber Edelbrock heads to take the compression up to 11.5:1, comp cam, Typhoon intake, etc.

  15. #15

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    Hey man, good to see you post this over here , also. You're definitely motivating me to get my motor in, don't be surprised when you get a PM saying I'm ready to run. Maybe could get a few other 4 eyed drivers to meet up with us. ( backstory is he posted this on another forum. I have a very similar motor, rebuilt and balanced,stock forged piston, stock block, 56cc 11r 190 heads, custom Buddy Rawls cam, but I'm carbed with a RPM Performer with a little port matching and plenum work ,with QF 650 and I have shorty 1 5/8 headers, ready to go in my 83, just need the time to swap. I think this dyno he goes to reads way higher then the one I have been to in the past. So I want to hit up this dyno and go run with Rock at Gateway) You ought to drive this thing over to KC next weekend for Ford fest.
    83 Mustang GT , A5 5 speed, 31 spline Cobra rear, LMR TRX, 302 11r 190 heads, Buddy Rawls custom cam

    86 Capri , 342 stroker , AFR 185 heads, Track Heat intake, 3.73 gears

  16. #16

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    Very nice #s! Ed is most definitely the man when it comes to cams.

  17. #17

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    This thing makes me wanna sell my TFS 170's and go 11R190
    1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
    95 Cobra, Crystal White

  18. #18
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4eyedfoxdriver View Post
    ...... custom Buddy Rawls cam......
    &

    Quote Originally Posted by tiretread View Post
    Very nice #s! Ed is most definitely the man when it comes to cams.

    Both.

    And Steve (Ethyl Cat) from BBD Performance in Lebanon, IL.

    These Three have proven there stuff, day in, day out. The fact that they don't mud sling and are there to create great 5.0's is the undisputable truth.


    And there are many more Ford nuts who screw together awesome combinations the cheat physics.


    But the cam and head package is a key ingredient. And to do it on a very complicated and restrictive 86 5.0 base, that's magic!

  19. #19

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    Thanks for the nice words, guys!

    Steve does my welding when I need a hand. Love having an excuse to stop by his shop. He's ~10 mins from me.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Light Regatta Blue 1986 Mustang GT 5sp - bone stock....block and rotating assembly.

  20. #20

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    Impressive! I am in the planning stages of a H/C/I for my recently purchased 85 T top GT. To be honest I am recovering from the 5 lug/suspension and full exhaust hit to the mod bank roll.


    It seems the hype on these 11r heads is real!

  21. #21

  22. #22

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    Nice numbers. I've been using Ed and his camshafts in my cars since 2006. Always great performers.
    Black 1985 GT: 408w, in the 6's in the 1/8 mile
    Bimini Blue 1988 LX 5.0 Coupe 5-speed, Hellion turbo, zero options
    Grabber Yellow 1973 Mustang Mach 1: 351c, toploader
    Black 2012 5.0 GT, 6-speed, Brembo brakes, 3.73's
    Wimbledon White 1966 F-100 Shortbed Styleside, 390, Tremec 3550, FiTech EFI

  23. #23

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    Awesome numbers!!! Was it an 86 bottom end? If so what did you do about valve to piston clearance? I did an E7 swap to an 86 20 years ago with great results. I recently started again with a stock 86 vert. Looking to make 300 rear wheel, just a fun street car. I picked up a set of GT-40x cylinder heads tonight and was wondering if I am going to have clearance issues. What about a cam?

    Thank You
    Eric

  24. #24
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    86'sdo not have notched pistons. It's good for about 0.2 - 0.3 points of additional compression but bad for intake valve clearance.

    Engines built on top of an 86 rotating assembly have choices to make. Limit lift, machine notches, or go to a trick flow twisted wedge head instead.

    Generally final lift numbers with a stock valve size and a stock degree on the valve placement is not more than 0.495" total lift. But it makes sense to check PV clearance before you get there.

    honestly a ported factory E7 head with a 1.7:1 rocker and no more than stock HO cam will give you the number you are after. Would have to research the X's as how much lift you can get away with and how much duration depends upon valve size.

  25. #25
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Trick Flow 190 11Rs and there 170 ilk have a PV clearance because of the postion of the exhaust valve.

    Before the new cam.....


    Quote Originally Posted by rock4451 View Post
    Nope! The cam installer checked, put .100 of clay on the piston and the valves didn't even touch it - which is how I know I probably could have gotten away with more compression. The decreased angles of the valves of the 11r head allow even more clearance. Intake is at 11 degrees, exhaust is at 13 versus stock 20 degree style heads that usually require notching.


    Sean


    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ock-bottom-end

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