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  1. #1
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Default Wheel Offset Question, Getting 18 x 9.5" wide wheels to fit in the rear

    Ok, so I have been measuring a bunch of wheels and doing a bunch of work to estimate if I can get a set of 18x9.5 wheels installed without rubbing the rear of my 85 GT. I have an 8.8 rear end, with the SN95 axle flanges on stock width axles, so my rear track width should be stock Fox Body with the hubcentric benefits of the SN95 axles. I am running coilovers, and Max Motorsports rear lower control arms, and no quad shocks. I should have plenty of room behind the wheels, but its the outer lip that has me more concerned. I can't install my rearend quite yet, in order to do some measurements on the car, so I was hoping that if I post the specs here, others may know what I can get away with.


    The most wheel options I find have either a 0 offset, 20mm offset, or 25mm offset, and the wheel I like the most has 0 offset, which pokes more than the other two options, but I am not sure if it will actually poke past the edge of the rear fender. Here is how the backspacing works with the wheels I am looking at:

    Wheel #1 (favorite) - 18 x 9.5, Offset is 0, which gives a backspacing of 5.25", leaving 4.25" from the face of the disk brake/wheel mounting surface, to the lip of the wheel.

    Wheel #2 - 18 x 9.5, Offset is 20mm, which gives me a backspacing of 6", leaving 3.5" out front

    Wheel #3 - 18 x 9.5, Offset is 25mm, which gives me a backspacing of 6.25", leaving 3.25" out front

    I am 99% sure that wheel 2 and 3 will work, but not so sure about wheel #1, which I really would love to get.

    Can anyone tell me what the minimum backspace recommendations would be for running a 9.5" wide wheel? I have heard of folks running 10s on the back of these cars, but I think they are closer to a 6.5" backspacing to pull that off.

    Thanks..

  2. #2
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    In my experience a 17X9 with a 24mm offset works pretty well on most Fox width rear end setups.

    I have also seen a 17X10 with a 25mm offset works in most cases too, depending on the actual tire size.

    Rough calculations suggest that your Zero Offset would sit approximately 1" further out than either setup. I seriously doubt that will work well nor look good IMHO. You will most likely have to run a taller ride height to make sure that you don't tear up the tires with the fender lips.

    I would definitely recommend either the 20mm or the 25mm as the better options. The 20mm make work again depending on tire size, ride height, etc. although it appears to be very close on the outside based upon the numbers. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
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  3. #3
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I think I understand the angle you are coming at this from. You are hoping to measure outside of wheel to outside of wheel on the axle while it's out of the car and know if it will fit.

    One thought - a panhard bar or watts will help with keeping the rear where it belongs and avoid rubbing

    A pair of stock SN95 tribar 17" rims on a complete 95 8.8 yields 68" outside of rim to outside of rim. Same measurement with SN95 spindles up front is only 66".

    unless you roll the lips or mod the quarters or jack it up in back it hits slightly while cornering hard with no panhard. I run 245/45/17's. They rub on the quarters. There is a country mile of room towards the inside if only the wheels were a different offset.

    Personslly I hate SN95 rear axles under a fox. It's just too wide to look consistent with the front.

    AFAIK I picked up 3/4" on each side by running the SN95 8.8

    I just bought all the goodies to redo my fox rearend while switching it over to 5 lug with SN95 axle ends and SN95 brakes. If anyone is reading this, it's the right way to convert to 5 lug in back. The only other option is different offset wheels front and rear.

  4. #4

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    Another concern about wheel fitment is hub bore. I ve been shopping wheels also and have noticed most aftermarket wheels I've liked have the wrong CB. I believe the sn95 are 70.3 mm and most wheels with the proper size and offset I've liked are 73mm or 72.6. Now, I used to work at an aftermarket wheel mail order business and we sold wheels all the time with hubrings and spacers. it seemed to work but it seemed to not be ideal to me. Any opinions on the hubrings?(the CB seems to be most difficult to find correct)?

  5. #5
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I would definitely recommend either the 20mm or the 25mm as the better options. The 20mm make work again depending on tire size, ride height, etc. although it appears to be very close on the outside based upon the numbers. Good Luck!
    I was afraid of that. Its probably too expensive to narrow the rear diff housing and axles by 1" per side, just so you could get a 9.5" or 10" wheel with some lip, to tuck into the fender. I think that especially with rear coilovers and no quad shocks, there is a lot more room on the inside, and you could actually narrow the rear end by 2 inches.

  6. #6
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    I think I understand the angle you are coming at this from. You are hoping to measure outside of wheel to outside of wheel on the axle while it's out of the car and know if it will fit.

    One thought - a panhard bar or watts will help with keeping the rear where it belongs and avoid rubbing.
    Yes, that is what I am trying to do, at least for a rough idea of what will fit. Once I have a better idea where I will be at generally, I will order one or two wheels to do some test fits, then I can make a final purchase once I know what will work.

    As for the panhard bar, I was thinking the same thing actually, and I think tabs need to be welded to the differential, correct? Do you have a good recommendation of a panhard or watts bar that you would recommend for normal street use? It prevents the side-to-side movement of the rear axle, correct? Can you also use it to make fine adjustments to your side-to-side axle positioning in the car?


    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    A pair of stock SN95 tribar 17" rims on a complete 95 8.8 yields 68" outside of rim to outside of rim. Same measurement with SN95 spindles up front is only 66".

    unless you roll the lips or mod the quarters or jack it up in back it hits slightly while cornering hard with no panhard. I run 245/45/17's. They rub on the quarters. There is a country mile of room towards the inside if only the wheels were a different offset.

    Personslly I hate SN95 rear axles under a fox. It's just too wide to look consistent with the front.

    AFAIK I picked up 3/4" on each side by running the SN95 8.8

    I just bought all the goodies to redo my fox rearend while switching it over to 5 lug with SN95 axle ends and SN95 brakes. If anyone is reading this, it's the right way to convert to 5 lug in back. The only other option is different offset wheels front and rear.
    That is great information, is that measurement to the outside of the rotor/wheel mounting surface? Also, do you know what the measurement in the rear is, between the fender lips, left to right? It would be harder to measure, but setting up a way to measure outside of the car from lip to lip would probably be easiest.

    As for the SN95 axles, I didn't communicate clearly what I am doing. I am doing exactly what you described. I bought 5 lug 8.8 axles that have the SN95 flange/hub center, with the Fox body width. So, using the measurements you mentioned, am I safe in assuming that an 8.8 with fox body axles should be about 66.5" from flange to flange (not sure if this is with or without the rotor).

    I bought my axles from North RaceCars, as well as the disk brake brackets for the Cobra rear brakes. They just arrived yesterday, and look great. Yukon axles. I stuck with 28 spline, which should be fine for what I am doing.

  7. #7
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer Down View Post
    Another concern about wheel fitment is hub bore. I ve been shopping wheels also and have noticed most aftermarket wheels I've liked have the wrong CB. I believe the sn95 are 70.3 mm and most wheels with the proper size and offset I've liked are 73mm or 72.6. Now, I used to work at an aftermarket wheel mail order business and we sold wheels all the time with hubrings and spacers. it seemed to work but it seemed to not be ideal to me. Any opinions on the hubrings?(the CB seems to be most difficult to find correct)?
    Some of the wheels I have been looking at, Rotiform, CCW, and some of the BBS knock off wheels, etc. have 70mm, some have 73mm and 72.6mm just like you mentioned. I'll be curious if the 70mm will fit on our 70.3mm hubs, or if we would need to make clearance on the hub or the wheel. For the rear its not as critical in terms of NVH, but up front that would be more of an issue and you would want the hub rings. I have used some of the hubcentric rings on multiple wheels (even a set of BBS CH wheels) without issue. I am running the SN95 front knuckles (1994) as well, which I am guessing are also 70.3mm. Did the Fox body cars originally come with a smaller CB?

  8. #8

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    Yes. Its apx 60mm. Also, please keep us updated on your progress on this project. I'm very interested. I'm planning on doing the exact 5-lug cobra brake upgrade you are doing.
    Last edited by Hammer Down; 06-23-2017 at 04:23 PM.

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    68" is outside edge of 95 tribar 17 to outside edge on the other side.

    Not sure what the wheel offset is but I know it's published


    I am going to transplant my SN95 rear discs when I do the fox width 5 lug swap on mine.

  10. #10
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    68" is outside edge of 95 tribar 17 to outside edge on the other side.

    Not sure what the wheel offset is but I know it's published


    I am going to transplant my SN95 rear discs when I do the fox width 5 lug swap on mine.
    I just checked and my stock drum brake 8.8 rear end is 59-11/44" wide from flange to flange, so I am guessing that our disk brake swapped 8.8 with stock width fox body axles should be the same. I ordered 2 different wheels today, one is the 10th anniversary rear wheel with the following specs:

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    Size: 17x10
    Offset: +20mm
    Backspacing: 6.29"
    Weight: 22 lbs
    Lug Pattern: 5 x 114.3

    I think this should fit, according to the folks at LMR, without rolling fenders, but a 275-40-17 is the biggest tire that I can get away with.

    I am also ordering this wheel today to do a test fit...its a tad narrower at 9.5, but I think I like how the 18" wheel will fit inside the fenders a little better than the 17:

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    Size: 18x9.5
    Offset: +22mm
    Backspacing: 6.12"
    Weight: 25 lbs
    Lug Pattern: 5 x 114.3

    Here is a last option I am considering... basically a CCW knock-off:

    Size: 18x9.5
    Offset: +25mm
    Backspacing: 6.23"
    Weight: 25 lbs
    Lug Pattern: 5 x 114.3

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    Any opinions or suggestions are welcome... even if you don't care for the wheel choices. It appears as though all of these wheels will fit without rolling the fenders, or beating up the inside of the fender wells. I am running coilovers and have removed the quad shocks though.

    I'll post some pics with the rear end installed and doing some test fitting.

  11. #11
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    All the wheels shown should "Fit" but again that is a relative term. How well they fit is the key. That once again is dependent upon your ride height, tire size, tire brand, axle setup, etc. in regards to the rear.

    I would HIGHLY recommend rolling the lips on the rear quarters/fenders especially if you want to run a 275 rear tire or anything near a 10" wide wheel. I have had to roll the fenders on all of my Foxes and I currently don't run anything wider than a 255 on a 9" rear wheel. Yes, I run a low ride height and I am running the wider rear axle setup, but essentially you will have a similar setup even with the narrower rear track, but wider rear wheels and tires.

    Running a quality set of lower control arms such as Maximum Motorsports and a Panhard or Watts Linkage setup will help to lower the chance of rubbing on the outer quarter lip under hard cornering, but honestly tearing up a good set of tires just isn't worth the chance IMHO. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  12. #12

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    17x10 Weld RTS on the back of my car with 275/40 M/T drag radial on the back. Stock width and looks great. Backspace is 6.30
    1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
    95 Cobra, Crystal White

  13. #13
    FEP Senior Member Patrick Olsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Wheel #1 (favorite) - 18 x 9.5, Offset is 0, which gives a backspacing of 5.25", leaving 4.25" from the face of the disk brake/wheel mounting surface, to the lip of the wheel.
    A wheel with 0 offset has the mounting face right in the center of the wheel, thus backspacing and frontspacing will be the same. Actual wheel width is ~1" wider than advertised wheel width, since the advertised wheel width is measured from bead to bead; 9.5" wheel is really ~10.5" wide. In other words, the above quote should say, "leaving 5.25 inches from the face of wheel mounting surface to the lip of the wheel." I don't foresee any way of making that fit.

    Updating the other numbers...
    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Wheel #2 - 18 x 9.5, Offset is 20mm, which gives me a backspacing of 6", leaving 4.5" out front
    Wheel #3 - 18 x 9.5, Offset is 25mm, which gives me a backspacing of 6.25", leaving 4.25" out front
    As Trey/wraithracing said, an R58 Cobra R wheel (17x9", 5.95" BS or ~+24mm offset) will fit on Fox axles. The R58 has 4.05" of frontspacing.
    Many folks have run the M179 Cobra Rs wheels (17x9", 6.42" BS or ~+36mm offset), which were specifically made for Foxes running SN95 axles. Accounting for the added 0.75" of axle length, it would be like having a wheel with 4.33" of frontspacing on a Fox axle. I ran that setup (M179s on SN95 axles) on my '89 with 275/40-17s and had to roll my fender lips. I concur with Trey's strong recommendation to roll your rear fender lips.

    Quote Originally Posted by vdubn View Post
    Can anyone tell me what the minimum backspace recommendations would be for running a 9.5" wide wheel? I have heard of folks running 10s on the back of these cars, but I think they are closer to a 6.5" backspacing to pull that off.
    Well, if 6.5" BS will work with a 10" wheel, it'll work with a 9.5" wheel, too - you would just end up with 0.5" more clearance to the fender lip. A 6" BS on a 9.5" wheel would put the outer lip in the same place as a 6.5" BS on a 10" wheel.


    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer Down View Post
    Another concern about wheel fitment is hub bore. I ve been shopping wheels also and have noticed most aftermarket wheels I've liked have the wrong CB. I believe the sn95 are 70.3 mm and most wheels with the proper size and offset I've liked are 73mm or 72.6. Now, I used to work at an aftermarket wheel mail order business and we sold wheels all the time with hubrings and spacers. it seemed to work but it seemed to not be ideal to me. Any opinions on the hubrings?(the CB seems to be most difficult to find correct)?
    Hubcentric rings work just fine. I've used them for years on a couple of my cars.


    Quote Originally Posted by erratic50 View Post
    68" is outside edge of 95 tribar 17 to outside edge on the other side. Not sure what the wheel offset is but I know it's published
    Those are 17x8" with 5.72" backspacing, which works out to +31mm offset.
    Last edited by Patrick Olsen; 07-06-2017 at 01:09 PM.

  14. #14
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Supersonic G.T.350 View Post
    17x10 Weld RTS on the back of my car with 275/40 M/T drag radial on the back. Stock width and looks great. Backspace is 6.30
    That is perfect... if mine are 18x10 with the same offset/backspacing, I wonder if they will fit similarly to yours? I am planning to run a 275-35-18 tire, if the test fit goes well.

  15. #15
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    All the wheels shown should "Fit" but again that is a relative term. How well they fit is the key. That once again is dependent upon your ride height, tire size, tire brand, axle setup, etc. in regards to the rear.

    I would HIGHLY recommend rolling the lips on the rear quarters/fenders especially if you want to run a 275 rear tire or anything near a 10" wide wheel. I have had to roll the fenders on all of my Foxes and I currently don't run anything wider than a 255 on a 9" rear wheel. Yes, I run a low ride height and I am running the wider rear axle setup, but essentially you will have a similar setup even with the narrower rear track, but wider rear wheels and tires.

    Running a quality set of lower control arms such as Maximum Motorsports and a Panhard or Watts Linkage setup will help to lower the chance of rubbing on the outer quarter lip under hard cornering, but honestly tearing up a good set of tires just isn't worth the chance IMHO. Good Luck!
    So, what did you use to roll your fenders? As an old school VW guy, I have tried all of the "cheap" tricks, like using a baseball bat, using a socket, and using a wooden dowel, all while rolling the car and allowing it to bend the lip.... worked ok, but not stellar.

    I have seen the tools that fasten to the hub, and push against the lip, and I have seen good results, but have also seen people really mess up their fenders. Curious if you did it yourself, and if so how, or if you had a body shop hammer-and-dolly the lips into submission?

  16. #16
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Ok, so after doing a bunch more research, I found the stance/setup I am working towards. Here is a sweet notch that is sitting where I want to be, and has the exact wheels I have been looking for (except I want hyper silver, black wheels just disappear on most cars... in my opinion). These are 18x10 with a +25 offset, and 6.48" backspacing. This notch in the pics below has done a cobra IRS swap, so he is sitting 3/4" wider on each side, so I think these should fit if I roll the fenders... He is running 255-35-18 all the way around on 10" wheels on all four corners.

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    Finally, this is the hyper silver version of the same wheel... I ordered 2 last night for test fitting. The notch above is running 10" front and back, with 8mm spacers up front. I am running the 1995 front spindles, so I think that keeps a narrow track. Will I be able to run 10" up front without issues, or will I need rack limiters to prevent the tires from rubbing the inside of the wheel wells?

    Name:  XXR18x10WheelHyperSilver.jpg
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  17. #17
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    First I have never seen the notch posted above online or in person, so I can not confirm nor deny any specific details. I say that because all too often even the owners of their own cars get the specifications wrong either because they bought the car the way it is, or they paid someone else to sort out the details and don't really know.

    So with that said, I will state that it is very difficult to fit a 10" wide wheel on the front of any Fox without fender flares and fit it under the fender. I know first hand as I have tried on multiple occasions. I won't say it can't be done, because I am sure someone, somewhere has done it and swears it works just like OEM! Bottom line IF you can fit a 10" front wheel you will have MAJOR rubbing and clearance issues that will require a huge stack of rack limiters or limited steering angles. I don't believe there is any benefit to try to fit the 10" wheel as there are too many compromises and headaches with the whole thing!

    Second point would be WHY THE H#LL run a 10" wide wheel and then only install 255 wide tires! Great you have stretched the 255 to fit, but WHY!!!! A 255 fits just fine and works very well on a 9" wheel. A 275 fits very well and looks just fine on a 10" wheel. Unless you are running some specific class with a really messed up tire/wheel rule I don't see the point. Maybe it's me, but that just seems like a waste of tires and wheel width. To each is own, but I don't get it. Enough about that!

    The next point in regards to the Cobra IRS. Keep in mind that a Cobra IRS has a track width of @ 60.3" I say approximately because no one seems to have the exact same measurement so your tape may vary! The Fox has a track width of @ 57" So the Cobra IRS is at least 3" wider or 1.5" per side than the Fox not 3/4" The SVO has a track width of over 58" and so does the SN95. Bottom line is the Cobra IRS on a Fox requires totally different rear offsets and BS than the SVO or SN95 live axle setups do. How do I know this . . . Because I have a Cobra IRS in my 79 PC. I have to run a 36mm offset on a 9" rear wheel with a 255/40/17 to just barely clear the fender lips and I still can have some rubbing over some bumps and hard corners. Personally I would prefer a 40mm offset as I think that would give me the added clearance, but keep the basic look I want.

    Running the SN95 front spindles will widen the track of a Fox even with the Fox lower control arms. The 94/95 are the spindles with a stock K member and will widen the track by 0.120" (1/8") per side. The 96-04 are what you run with an aftermarket K member, but will widen the track 0.320" (>5/16") again with Fox control arms. Not huge changes with the 94/95 spindles but enough that it can affect your BS/Offset in extreme conditions.

    I would recommend the Eastwood fender rolling tool to roll the rear fender lips. Yes, if you don't take your time and don't follow the directions you can screw things up. You have to take it slow to make it work properly. Using a heat gun to warm the paint on the fender lips can help prevent cracking or chipping and is recommended. I have used this method and I have also used the pie cutting method on cars that were being built and ultimately painted, so there was no concern about messing up the paint. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
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  18. #18
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    First I have never seen the notch posted above online or in person, so I can not confirm nor deny any specific details. I say that because all too often even the owners of their own cars get the specifications wrong either because they bought the car the way it is, or they paid someone else to sort out the details and don't really know.
    Agreed, which is why I am buying a few wheels to do my own test fitting.... you can only rely on others experience so far, especially if you don't know their personality, character, etc.


    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    So with that said, I will state that it is very difficult to fit a 10" wide wheel on the front of any Fox without fender flares and fit it under the fender. I know first hand as I have tried on multiple occasions. I won't say it can't be done, because I am sure someone, somewhere has done it and swears it works just like OEM! Bottom line IF you can fit a 10" front wheel you will have MAJOR rubbing and clearance issues that will require a huge stack of rack limiters or limited steering angles. I don't believe there is any benefit to try to fit the 10" wheel as there are too many compromises and headaches with the whole thing!
    LOL...That answered my questions about the 10" wide wheels, and confirmed what I already guessed to be true. They have an 8.5" front wheel with 25mm offset, so that sounds like a much better option.

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Second point would be WHY THE H#LL run a 10" wide wheel and then only install 255 wide tires! Great you have stretched the 255 to fit, but WHY!!!! A 255 fits just fine and works very well on a 9" wheel. A 275 fits very well and looks just fine on a 10" wheel. Unless you are running some specific class with a really messed up tire/wheel rule I don't see the point. Maybe it's me, but that just seems like a waste of tires and wheel width. To each is own, but I don't get it. Enough about that!
    The only real reason to do it would be to clear the fender and avoid rubbing. My hope is to run a 275-35-18 in the back if its available, as I think its a better fit as well. Since the car will be very low, I may opt for the narrower tire just for fitment (unless the stretch is too great).

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    The next point in regards to the Cobra IRS. Keep in mind that a Cobra IRS has a track width of @ 60.3" I say approximately because no one seems to have the exact same measurement so your tape may vary! The Fox has a track width of @ 57" So the Cobra IRS is at least 3" wider or 1.5" per side than the Fox not 3/4" The SVO has a track width of over 58" and so does the SN95. Bottom line is the Cobra IRS on a Fox requires totally different rear offsets and BS than the SVO or SN95 live axle setups do. How do I know this . . . Because I have a Cobra IRS in my 79 PC. I have to run a 36mm offset on a 9" rear wheel with a 255/40/17 to just barely clear the fender lips and I still can have some rubbing over some bumps and hard corners. Personally I would prefer a 40mm offset as I think that would give me the added clearance, but keep the basic look I want.
    I had no idea that there was so much variance, great to know. Either way it sounds like I should be able to fit the 10" rear wheel if I am running Fox width axles on an 8.8 differential.

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Running the SN95 front spindles will widen the track of a Fox even with the Fox lower control arms. The 94/95 are the spindles with a stock K member and will widen the track by 0.120" (1/8") per side. The 96-04 are what you run with an aftermarket K member, but will widen the track 0.320" (>5/16") again with Fox control arms. Not huge changes with the 94/95 spindles but enough that it can affect your BS/Offset in extreme conditions.
    This confused me a bit. I have an aftermarket K member and Maximum Motorsports 0 offset lower A arms, and the 1994 SN95 front spindles. Are you saying that this combination isn't meant to work together? I know that I may need some bump stop eliminators, but other than that I was under the impression that it all plays nice and retains almost the same original Fox track width up front.

    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    I would recommend the Eastwood fender rolling tool to roll the rear fender lips. Yes, if you don't take your time and don't follow the directions you can screw things up. You have to take it slow to make it work properly. Using a heat gun to warm the paint on the fender lips can help prevent cracking or chipping and is recommended. I have used this method and I have also used the pie cutting method on cars that were being built and ultimately painted, so there was no concern about messing up the paint. Good Luck!
    This tool: http://www.usatoolwarehouse.com/usat...RoCcvoQAvD_BwE

    That is the one I am familiar with as well, and I thought it had a tougher time with the double walled rear lips, but did a good job of rolling the single walled lips of the front fenders. Was that your experience as well? How far from horizontal were you able to roll your rear lips.... 45 degrees, or more? Maybe you have a pic of your rears rolled that you could share?

    Also, as for the pie cutting method, are you saying basically snip small cuts to relieve the arch, and allow you to bend them close to flat against the back side of the wheel arch?

    Trey, thanks again for sharing all of your experience, its much appreciated.

  19. #19
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    If you are running the MM K member the 96-04 spindles are the better option due to the straight steering arm on the spindles rather than the curved steering arm on the 94/95 units. The 96-04 OEM K member had the steering rack in a lower location than the 94/95 models because of fitting the 4.6. That was the reason for the change in the steering arm on the spindles. The MM K member also lowers the steering rack location therefore the 96-04 spindles match up better. I would recommend using the 96-04 units as that will help to alleviate bump steer issues. You should be able to sell the 94/95 unit here or on Ebay and recoup any $$ needed for the other spindles. Yes they will cause your track width to be slightly wider and might cause you to have to adjust your offsets or play with some spacers for best fitment.

    Yes, the tool you linked too is the Eastwood fender rolling tool. There are other copies out there, but the Eastwood tool is so inexpensive now, I would just buy it.

    Yes, rolling the rear quarter/fender lips is much more time consuming and difficult than single wall front fender lips. That is why you have to take your time and not rush it, especially with the EW tool. It has been awhile since I rolled the rear lips on a Fox. The last one was my 85 GT way back many years ago. From what I recall I was able to roll them over to approximately a 60-45 degree starting from the 90 degree point. Depending on your tire/wheel combo that may be plenty and prevent the dreaded tire slicing in most causes. Once you get the lips rolled over you can also get in there with a rubber mallet and work the lips more if needed.

    I am down in TX right now and won't be back in CO until the end of July so I don't have the ability to take any pictures of my Foxes right now. I don't have any pictures either of the rolled lips, so I am not very helpful there. I will be happy to take some once I get back home.

    Yes, the pie cutting method is where I will cut the lip on the rear quarters with a cut off wheel just shy of the of the bend on the outside face of the quarter. This allows me to use a hammer, dolly, rubber mallet, etc. to bend/roll the lip over without it trying much of the hassle of rolling with a tool such as the Eastwood. With this method, I can roll the lips completely flat up against the inner wheel well so that all is left is about an 1/8" of solid metal on the lip. This provides the most clearance and virtually eliminates the tire shredding issues that are common with larger wheels and tires. You have to be careful not to distort the outer wheel arch when doing this by hammering too hard or trying to move the metal too much. You also have to be careful not to cut too deep into the lip that might allow the cut to still be seen after folding the metal over. It can be done on finish painted cars if done very carefully, but I generally do it on my cars when first building them and prepping for paint just in case I screw up!

    I have a Capri down here in TX at my old shop that I might have done the process on, but I can't remember. I will take a look and get some pictures if that is the case. Hope that helps!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  20. #20

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    So , I was talking to a guy who used to race fox mustangs and he ran 275/40/17 square setup. I replied how because 235/45/17 rub slightly on my car. His answer was to pop the side moldings off the front fender on the front and back. Then take a die grinder and cut the fender from the wheel well to about and inch to the door and and inch to the bumper. Then pull the fender out so there is apx 1/4" gap opened up on the cut. Then tack weld it back together. Reapply the side moldings and ready to go.

  21. #21
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer Down View Post
    So , I was talking to a guy who used to race fox mustangs and he ran 275/40/17 square setup. I replied how because 235/45/17 rub slightly on my car. His answer was to pop the side moldings off the front fender on the front and back. Then take a die grinder and cut the fender from the wheel well to about and inch to the door and and inch to the bumper. Then pull the fender out so there is apx 1/4" gap opened up on the cut. Then tack weld it back together. Reapply the side moldings and ready to go.
    There are ways to run a 275 up front, but as your guy alluded to it requires modifications/customization. A road racer trick is to use a turn buckle up front to push the lower front corner of the fender out for added clearance. Some need just a little, others will cut the fender under the molding as suggested by your guy to gain extra clearance.

    Bottom line is how much wheel/tire do you want to run and what are you willing to do to make it fit. Or how much rubbing are you willing to deal with. ONly you can answer all those questions as everyone one of us is different.
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  22. #22
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Ok, so I did some test fitting today, and I'm torn between the two wheels, but am leaning towards the Anniversary wheels at this time. Trey, it looks like I will be doing the pie cutting method on the rear flares, as the lip of the wheel is super close to the flare with the stock lip unrolled, and the back lip almost resting on the inner fender. As you can see from the pic, it would be with the tire tucked, so I am guessing that is a bit lower than I will be going, but I will be pretty low. I think if I pie cut, I should be able to get maybe 3/8" more which I will need every bit of. I know that some folks push in the inner fender a bit to give some clearance, but most people say that I shouldn't need to do that.

    Of course, all of these test fits are without the axle in place. I got the housing all painted today, so I will be installing the axles tomorrow, and mounting the backing plates for the brakes, and then plan to install the diff and test suspension motion without any springs installed... so I can see how tucked the wheels can get and where they might rub.

    I'm curious of opinions between the two wheel options.

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  23. #23
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    The first pic shows the correct wheel on the front, the other pics that show the Anniversary wheel on the front, were me seeing what the rear wheel looked like on the front. I wish that there was more lip for the fronts (a bit less offset) but thats the only option.

    The last pic shows how much the 13" front cobra brakes really fill the wheel. LMR said that the caliper will fit on the fronts... it must just barely fit...

  24. #24

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    The brakes/wheel combination looks fantastic on the front. It goes great with the paint color. I like it better than the one on the rear, it looks more like a BMW csl wheel to me. Although, still a cool wheel.

  25. #25
    FEP Member vdubn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer Down View Post
    The brakes/wheel combination looks fantastic on the front. It goes great with the paint color. I like it better than the one on the rear, it looks more like a BMW csl wheel to me. Although, still a cool wheel.
    Agreed.... I was trying hard to find a reason to go with the 18" wheel, but really am liking the look of the 17" Anniversary wheels...

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