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  1. #1

    Default ford 3.3 vacuum lining

    hello,
    my fairmont 3.3 vacuum lines are mostly not connected.
    does anyone know what outlet goes to where, have some clear pics for illustrating. cars has no air pump in it an is an 1981 wagon

  2. #2
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Don't ever leave Four Eyed Pride. The information others have given me here has allowed me to conquer this sometimes bitchy, hard to fathom engine.


    Your engine came with an air pump, it should have one, but hey, its your car. A 31 pound per hour air pump is easy to find in North America.


    See the links below and you'll find all the names of the guys who helped me find out about my cars Emission Pipes when I came here in 2011.




    My wife and her best friend were was always shocked how rauchy the 3.3 I6 sounds, but how latent, and unlike the very rapid Aussie versions of the same engine. She and her freind aggreed, and Shaz said to me..."Just put the the Aussie 4.1 liter engine we had in the 1984 Falcon in that light little 81 Mustang, and it'll be sensational!".

    Well, I did the engine transfer and mockups, but it never legally got the Cross flow 250's 175 hp Propane engine my wife was used to.

    Some back ground....


    Okay, I'm a Engineering Technician who does Engine Component Design and Adaptors.

    My background is onboard data logging for Road Safety.

    I'm an Eccomodder, a US Ford lover, but I deal in old Log Headed engines.




    When it says

    XEC Ltd ICBE's Inter Continental Ballistic Engines-
    FAZER 6Bi (M112 & EEC5) or FAZER 6Ti (GT3582 & EEC5) 425 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
    FAZER 6V0 3x2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6
    X-Flow Engine Components Ltd http://www.xecltd.info/?rd=10
    It means I have the plans, pinouts, fabrication diagrams and specs for not only Eaton Supercharged and Turbocharged EECV 4.1's

    but 3 by 2-BBL Holley 188 HP 3.3L/200 I-6 or 235 HP 4.1L/250 I-6. And one kind of 4-bbl intake adaptor using two 2-bbl Holley carbs.

    The horsepower ratings exist because I got someone local and independent to do the cam design and air flow modelling.


    I put together a plan to make EFI Log headed engines in 2011, and got the first plans mocked up in 2014.

    I've known the fickle nature of the in line and vee six Ford market for years. Everyone with an I6 wants to go fast, no one wants to pay for it. The fact that I don't have people beating down my doors for parts means that I'm All Hui* (hooey), No Doey

    A hui is a New Zealand term for a social gathering or assembly. Originally a Māori language word, it was used by Europeans as early as 1846 when referring to Māori gatherings - but is now increasingly used in New Zealand English to describe events that are not exclusively Māori.
    Its my fault, I like being stuck in New Zealand...


    In the early days, at 14 to 16, I was a service assistant at the local power supply company in my little town of Alexandra, and I did the regular services on Ford Transits, Escorts, Cortinas, and Falcons, and Holden H series one ton pickups. And Bedford J series trucks. And, would you believe, Toyotas and Land Rovers. Propane Conversions were done while I was there, and a whole host of service work. My old man was the purchasing officer, so he operated stores. So basically, because of that, I've dealt with everyting electronic, electrical, mechanical, and welded, cobbled together or junk yard raided virtually every foreign Ford.

    The Ford trained service guy who taught me is still operating the local gas station in my hometown.

    I do the stuff others talk about. But I sure as heck aint perfect.

    The US 3.3 engine is basically a stubborn, oddly shaped, intrusive 1958 design cobled together in the Robert L McNamara era, and built down to the cent. It misses all the great stuff the FE V8 and 223/262 I6 engines had in those years, with quite a few extra faults as well.

    In 1981, it has the best developed Emissions package of any Ford engine. It was clean, it idled properly start from freezing cold to warm (all earlier years didn't), and it was also to lamest engine ever because it had 85 hp from 78 to 80, then 94.5, 91, then 87 hp from 1981 to 1983.

    This is the list of pictures and parts that should be here at the link below.


    Its on another forum because the members there can cope with my 7 thousand in line six posts over almost 15 years (about 1000 posts were pruned back over five message board collapses).


    https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=...591463#p591463


    If you want a clean, non emissions hookup looking engine, then you just have to fit a YF Carter 1-bbl, and use the basic fittings like the enigine in post Post #8 » Tue Oct 04, 2016.

    If you want it to work properly, then leave everything on it.

    I use to drive a Propane 250 1984 Falcon Cross Flow six that did 15.9 second 1/4 miles with just the same head mike1157 uses in his Glia Monster. It takes 175 flywheel hp to do that in a 3100 pound automatic 250 Ford. Thats 84 hp more than yours has now. Most of that improvement is air flow management, but it was just a 25% bigger, 2-bbl 500 cfm carbed engine, and guys in the US make 205 hp, and do 15 second passes with just a 500 cfm C4 shifted Ford.

    http://kastang.tripod.com/fsp/xecute.html


    There may be a lot wrong with a 91 horspower American 1-bbl 3.3 Ford engine, but emissions system operation is not one of them.


    The reason for the loss in performance with the 1981 91 hp 3.3 and 1972 to 1980 99 hp 4.1 US engines verses the stock 109-115 hp 2.8 Colgne V6, 116-119 hp 4.2 V8, and 137 to 210 hp 5.0's, and whatever horsepower the 4.9 EFI truck Six cylinder engine had is that the 3.3 (and the 1968 to 1980 4.1 ) was just a paper weight. It got progressively down graded component wise from birth, although the actual power rating never moved more than 5% since 1963. It might have been rated 125 hp Gross in 1963, but in 1983, its 87 hp net rating wasn't any different.

    The 75 emission control devices, compression ratio changes, carb variations, and head casting alterations didn't hurt its power one bit.

    In the Australian Falcons, the same 3.3 engine stayed at 114 to 121 hp net and 173 to 177 lb-ft, and did 17.9 to 18.5 second 1/4 miles in cars much heavier, making 29.4 US miles per gallon in the Aussie Cortina TF, and able to do low 17 second passes in the 2600 pound Cortina 3.3 S pack.

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Okay, for the lines, what shoulda been there...see this.

    myle860 was a Ford Six Member from way back when. He's had the same Golden 1981 3.3 C4 auto Mustang for ages, it got almost written off recently.

    Here are some diagrams which might help.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...cuum-nightmare

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...haust-air-tube





    EGR, I'd not advice you how to unhook it

    If your car is A/C, it'll have the orange Throttle Positioner, it should stay hooked up, but if you were to remove it....well, just ask and we'll tell ya!

    You show us what you got left, we'll tell you what you can do...its your car....



    Long term?:-

    Foxy Capri de emissionised his by fitting headers and an Aussie M code 250 170HP 2V head.

    Quote Originally Posted by Foxy Capri View Post
    Well, it's now our Summer season and after many false starts, health issues, then holidays and many other family issues, I can now say that the Capri to Aussie 2V conversion is all but complete. The Holley needs tuning, that's happening today at a fellow Club mates garage day and the kick-down cable needs to be installed too. She runs well and clearly has loads more power now, so time will tell. Here's a couple of pics of the new engine and engine bay. More to come, stay tuned.




    Quote Originally Posted by Foxy Capri View Post
    Here's my 'White' Black Magic, running the Aussie 250 2V head but now with the US inlet manifold. I just paid my Club Permit fees of $71.20 which allows me to use her for a maximum of 45 days per year. It's very cheap motoring and equates to giving her a run nearly once a week. For an extra $71.20, I can get an additional 45 days if I exhaust my initial 45 days. She just loves the open road!


    Quote Originally Posted by Foxy Capri View Post
    G'day Dean, you'll have to excuse my ignorance, but I have no bloody idea what all that emissions stuff is or what it does. I'm an old school mechanic, plugs, points and an oil change, that's for me!

    Anyway, attached are 2 pics of a lot of the rejected stuff off my I6 200, along with a close up of the item I thought that you were talking about. Hope all this helps, and I definitely don't have the EXH light. Cheers, Terry


    Best option for you is to do a direct mount 2-bbl conversion, and see how easy it is to add a TBi unit.

    See this.

    http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...tbi-swap.shtml

    Full list of wiring a 2.8 TBi system to a 2bbl 2.8 Ford Ranger 114 hp V6, basically the ages old 2.6/2.8 Carb Capri. Mustang II/ Fox 2.8 and Bronco II/Areostar engine.

    Shows you how to did it without software mods.


    The wiring...



    Shows you how to lock a Ford distributor.



    and how to transition the 2bbl Autolite2100/ Motorcraft 2150/ Holley 2300 Ford 2bbl mount to the 2bbl TBi throttle body.





    Direct mount using Stanyons method.
    http://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t...00-log-milling

    https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=...554386#p554386

    Quote Originally Posted by stanyon
    Milling or machining the head for a direst mount for the Weber really isn't that hard, a couple of hours is what it took me . Search Milling Intake.

    http://vintage-vans.forumotion.com/t...00-log-milling






    And MPG Mustangs

    https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=68406




    Other options....

    https://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=...580587#p580587
    Quote Originally Posted by timray87
    Quote Originally Posted by Gene Fiore
    Quote Originally Posted by timray87

    Just looking at my motor, and the center of the motor (based off of center of harmonic balance) is at least an inch and a half to the left of center of the car! I've driven this car without issues or vibration for 12+ years, so I can't think that it could be that far off but it'd explain a few things. Will you take a picture of your '71 showing center of the motor in relation to where it would line up between the shock tower braces? I'm curious if yours is centered or not?
    Thanks!
    I've attached a picture of my engine bay. It's kinda hard to take a good measurement with everything in the way, but it seems like my rough measurement from the center of the valve cover to each shock tower favors the passenger side by about 1/2 inch...maybe. So it's probably fairly centered which bodes well for me.
    Wow looks nice! and a 14 is impressive for a stock N/A head too. Your motor is definitely shifted more towards the driver side than mine, so I bet I can get this intake to fit after some adjustments. I think I'll replace the motor mounts while I'm in there adjusting the motor, all I can find online looks like a pretty weak mount, what are you using on yours to handle your power?





  4. #4

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    Hello,
    thanks for the respond, I already found the thread "vacuum nightmare" but couldn't really understand clearly how the vac lines are routed
    But here are some pictures of the engine bay as how it is sitting now.
    As for how far i will go: as close to original as necessary for getting good driveability until i can do an efi conversion on it.
    only problem i have is that i live in Belgium so all parts have to come from online shops... so finding them is sometimes hard.
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    some tubes that are closed up...

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    small tube is bend over where it normally goes i don't know, orange wire is cut and i don't know where it belongs...

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    exhaust system
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  5. #5

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    some more pics with carb. (what type could it be?)
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    btw does anybody know where to find the steering coupling,its not engine related but feel bad making a thread just for that part
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  6. #6
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Very easy!


    Half the job has been done already, so all you need do now is to buy good quaility blanking off caps, and go on a mission to plug leaks.




    That engine has 1978 to 1979 T code VIN emissions, basically, the 1978 to 1979's were all similar, the carb lookes 1980 B code without A/C Throttle Solenoid.


    B codes (1980 to 1982) and X codes (1983) were totally sorted emissions engines that were reliable and idled well, but all the stuff I have is B and X code. NO HELP FOR YOUR NEEEDS.


    The T code is a TOTALLY different engine package emissions wise.

    It had a very leak prone "bolt on the head , non integrated" EGR valve.

    It had a poor idling carb with

    no Item 53 Carburettor Throttle Solenoid Positioner
    no Item 34, Anti Dieseling Valve/Idle Stop Solenoid)no anti Dieseling / VOTM
    no Item 73 TK (Throttle Kicker)
    no Item 87 VOTM : Vacuum Operated Throttle Modulator (Variation on 34 and 53 Carburettor Throttle Solenoid Positioner, 73 TK [Throttle Kicker])
    no Item 93 Vac Switch Assembley (Like SOL V, only vac operated, Refer Item 33, Idle Boost Solenoid [Orange Knob on 81, 82, 83 A/C Equiped 3.3's]; used as a kind of Throttle Kicker Control [TK], but to contol base idle).

    So the earlier carbs never really idled well.

    Copy this. ponikorjaamo has done most of it too.

    http://www.ponikorjaamo.com/ti80/holley1946.htm


    1. Blank off the EGR by removing the whole valve, and place one of these hand made metal plates over it. Use the existing gasket as a template to seal it.






    This how the 1976 yo 2004 New Zealand market Australian 3.3 and 4.1 liter cars with EGR were "de-emissionised"



    Here is the brilliant Luke76 (He has sensational write ups on the emissions parts for his F150 truck, 1980 258 AMC Jeep), and who has a Granada with 250 engine, same cylinder head. The vacuum tee is capped off like .


    Other side of the engine, also down to bare metal, ready for paint.



    Engine after applying a coat of POR 15, then a second coat of engine enamel (the color coat). I still need to paint the top of my dipstick white. I didn't paint the head because it is going to be replaced anyway.



    One of the many accessory brackets as it came off the engine.



    Same bracket, cleaned, treated, and painted.

    g]


    For service items that weren't used in full emissions cars, Ford US supplied Allen Key/Hex headed "grub screws" to cover up non functional manifold vacuum ports.


    Like Ford New Zealand did



    These come in various sizes, and you can use them if you wish.


    on Luke76's Granada, he kept the 3 hole Black TCV on the water/thermostat housing.



    Its best to keep these two PVS Ported Vacuum Switches (1 and 2)



    Colors vary, but the

    1 Green DVCV Delayed Vacuum Control Valve

    2 Blue TCVV Thermatically Controled Vent Valve

    The 3rd is a Black SDV Spark Delay Valve, that stops the sprak advance when cold.

    The two PVS swithces and SDV allow the engine to warm up.

    https://fordsix.com//viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68598
    Quote Originally Posted by JackFish
    I ditched the solenoids on my 1946. I run the distributor vacuum from the "spark" port high up on the driver side of the carb.
    It works well.

    Not using any ported vacuum switches.
    I have also drilled a hole in the throttle plate to allow the 264/274/112 cam to get into decent idle range.
    I still run a vacuum out to the charcoal box thing to collect vapours from the vent on the top of the carb.
    Cut a spacer out of a dollar store cutting board and sandwiched that between a couple of homemade gaskets.
    I'd like to find a suitable replacement for that out of aluminum or phenolic.
    Quote Originally Posted by MrMootsie
    Installed this carb last night, using the Spark Valve connection high up on the driver's side.



    Large bore vacuum connection... Out of the box, this is a quantum leap over the 1100. I have to fabricate a new throttle linkage, as the geometry is not exactly correct. Pretty happy with this so far.

    Since the Ford list is for Fords trained service people, and not people like us, I use a 75 item name and claim it version of the list, which is based on a hard return, digitized version of http://myzephyrs.com/vac_part_name.htm

    Item

    8 BV: Bowl Vent (on top of the float tanks)
    17 MAN VAC: Indicating Manifold vacuum-Vacuum source for brake booster
    21 V VAC: short for Vacuum
    35 S Spark Port
    37 E EGR Port

    need to be identified




    V is the item Mootsie called the "Spark Valve connection high up on the driver's side. Large bore vacuum connection..."




    Autozone, diagram Fig 28




    For pre 1980, 17 is the port here by my hand



    For 1980 to 1983, man vac 17 is on a hex port, capped off with a hex grub screw in 1bad6t's photos




  7. #7
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    This is the full rundown on the early carb without the electric vent solenoid. Fig 40 shows it. The carb has a Throttle Positioner too, yours doesn't.

    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Ford knew that as log as the car had all the bits at assembly, they wouldn't need to do anything but adjust it.I've had perfect reliablity with mne when those things are established.

    Everything is color coded, Red, Gold and Green.

    Like the culture clubs Karma Chameleon Lyrics...

    Those bits go to the carb parts, but they have to go around the right way.

    In the http://www.autozone.com/repairguides...00c1528004e0d6

    Shop Manual the upper one is marked "Venturi vacuum pick-up tube" and the lower is "Spark vacuum pick-up tube". The first one should be Green and the latter Gold.

    Here it is in the natural Holley 1946 with the common 12B calibration 1-12B-R0 1981. Plenty of 1980 cars used the later 1981 to 1983 emission system. The earlier ones decribe the process better.









    Sadly, the parts don't follow one common base name. Ford trucks and RV's use different names, and the base names evolved from 1979 to 1988. In fact, even VECI diagrams weren't part of the placard untill 1981, and they were held by Ford under the calibration code.

    Ford has an all inclusive shop manual, which has many different carbs. What is stamped as a Motorcraft 1946on the carb ID plate is referred variously the Holley 1946, or the 1946c or even so called 1933 figure 19.

    Here is

    Fig 9



    The diagram in quarters


    http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/...etor%201_4.jpg
    http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/...etor%202_4.jpg
    http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/...etor%203_4.jpg
    http://i1215.photobucket.com/albums/...etor%204_4.jpg

    Fig 19


    Fig 20


    and


    Fig 40

  8. #8
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    As long as the pipe at the head is bloked off, you'll be fine.


    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy
    A legend at its own lunch time :nod:

    For full extended coverage, try looking at this.


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