odd electrical problem

[Magnetic82]

Greetings, all:

The other day I removed the upper and lower intake manifolds and everything that connects to them- throttle, fuel rail, etc. Replacing gaskets. While removing the lower intake bolts, I placed my hand on the stud that secures the water tube to the heater near the firewall end of the manifold and thought I cut myself. Another bolt and another jolt. No blood so when I touched it a third time, it was clearly 'live.' Not any worse than testing a nine volt battery if even that. I then removed the negative battery cable (I know- should have done that first) and no more mystery electricity.

So is this a ground problem, a short somewhere, or another item altogether? May explain while I am getting a lean code from the computer but I have some new hardware on the car plus a factory correct pressure reg about to go on. Battery does not drain so if this is usually present, what might it be? Phantom juice. Sounds like the next big thing from Hollywood.

Thanks.

[Haystack]

I cant feel a 9v with my skin unless i were to lick it (dont try this at home).

Its almost impossible for a 12v current to be felt unless it is super high amprage or voltage (250v+ i would guess). It would have to be a rouge ac current from the coil or the alternator or some weird high static charge.

[Ray Dog]

Trying to drive a car at night with this spot light that if I had a hunting rifle in the car I would have a lot of splaining
to do.
I was trying to drive without head lights pointing it out the window on a rainy day.
I felt like I was laying my elbow on needles.
I found the zip chord power wire had shorted out to the metal case so it was 12v hot.

Electric 101
1) Electricity will seek the path of least resistance.

2) 99% of the time we are that path of least resistance.

I have had 110v brain buzzers, 277v arm yankers that takes the stiffness a week to go away.
The 12 v ticklers are the hard ones to realize that it's happening.
I think your engine ground strap is at fault.
2 ways to test,
1 ) Set up a volt meter with the positive lead on the engine, and the negative lead on the negative
battery terminal. This should should read next to nothing.
If it reads anything over a couple tenths of a volt the strap has too much resistance, most likely to corrosion on either
or both ends
2) run a wire from the block to the negative battery terminal and see if you still get funky feelings.
My guess is your lean issue is due to fact the block is not at a true 12v negative and is skewing the voltage to the engine controls.

[Magnetic82]

Great ideas and suggestions. I thought of running the meter between the battery and contact point to see what might be flowing. Shall try when the engine is reassembled and tested.
Thanks!