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  1. #1
    FEP Member Boxtop78's Avatar
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    Default Rust under the roof

    Hi guys, I'm new to the site and I picked up a78 Fairmont awhile back and now started to work on it first stripped the interior and found the rust under the headliner and there is no room for brush to get in to clean it,how can I attack the rust and stop it from spreading.
    Thanks in advance helpful hints and inputs
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  2. #2
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    Probably going to need a donor roof skin , or patch what you have .
    clowns to the left of me , Jokers to the right

  3. #3
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    If its been near the desert, you get Arizona Prairie Rust, basically dew point droplets under the roof sheet above the roof liner. I've seen it on a few cheery imports from the US states around that area. Mostly Mopars, but Fords aren't immune.

    Drop the hood liner, and do an extent check.

    If you've ever worked in a body shop like I have, a roof replacement isn't out of the question. But for everyone else

    Quote Originally Posted by PaceFever79
    Replacing a roof skin is probably beyond most do it yourselfers.

    (Just saying that for others who read the thread)

    Its just that buying a car on condition saves you money. Fixing it without a full roof replacement is hopscotch.

    Hop scotch isn't so bad with POR15 and modern treatements.

    Read thru this, and see where you sit with it.

    http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...roof&p=1093021

  4. #4
    FEP Member Boxtop78's Avatar
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    Thank you guys, I'm gonna pull the headliner tomorrow and snap some pic.,replacing the roof skin is not an option for me at the moment I was thinking about chemical treated like por15 or stuff from eastwood and fiberglass filler over the holes

  5. #5
    FEP Member brianj's Avatar
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    If it's not paper thin, and accessible from the inside, cutting out the rust, chemically treating it and patching it from the inside might be an option. It's on a flat, straight section, so a patch should be simple. Probably not 100% the correct way to do it, but plenty good enough as long as you don't trap rust between the old metal and the patch.
    Last edited by brianj; 06-10-2017 at 08:45 PM.
    1983 Mustang G.T. No-option stripper- I like strippers.
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  6. #6
    FEP Member Boxtop78's Avatar
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    Thank you for your reply guys, I snapped a couple of pics. Let me know what you think
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    Last edited by Boxtop78; 06-11-2017 at 03:46 PM.

  7. #7
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    You could always cut the whole roof off and make a roadster.

  8. #8
    FEP Power Member vintageracer's Avatar
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    Cut the small rust spot shown in the pic above out and weld in a small patch.

    If you don't have a welder go ahead and cut out the rust spot, make a patch with some sheet metal and go to the local muffler shop and pay the guy to weld in the patch. Grind it off smooth and you are good to go!

    Scotch Brite the underside of the roof the best you can to remove some of the rust around the edges and apply POR 15 to stop and further rust. This can get messy however you can put the POR 15 in a disposable spray bottle to get into those hard to reach places a brush won't reach. Just make sure you cover EVERYTHING you don't want POR 15 on!
    Mike
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  9. #9
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I had similar things going on with my 74 Galaxie with full vinal roof 25 years ago. Cut out the holes, ground down any oxidation areas until I either went through or had metal with no rust showing. Shot the whole entire inside and outside of the roof with Extends. Did a skim coat of "rot out" inside the car. Put on a new v top and headliner.

    i just saw the car last year for the first time since I traded it off for my Mustang (in 1992) The new v roof was long gone but the repair held up. No new holes in the roof skin. I was surprised.

  10. #10
    FEP Senior Member roadkill's Avatar
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    You might try cutting out the rot and patching it from behind using 3M Panel Adhesive. Used that stuff to "glue" a donor car patch in the floor of my DD P71. 3 years and 3 Cleveland winters and my patch job still looks mint .
    1985 Mercury Marquis LTS... "The Unicorn"
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  11. #11
    FEP Super Member erratic50's Avatar
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    I've heard great stuff about panel adhesive

  12. #12
    FEP Senior Member roadkill's Avatar
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    I've seen body guys glue quarter panels and roofs on with that stuff so it's gotta be good !
    1985 Mercury Marquis LTS... "The Unicorn"
    1978 Fairmont... 306 and a C4.

  13. #13
    FEP Member Boxtop78's Avatar
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    Thanks guys, I will look into the 3m adhesive panel but for time being I'm going to find some sort of wire brush small enough to fit in those crevices or some type of wire wheel or brush that go on the end of a drill.

  14. #14
    FEP Power Member dagenham's Avatar
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    Be warned. The panel bonding adhesive is not cheap. Probably $50+ for the tube of adhesive and the specialized applicator is a pricey tool to get. Unless the price has come down since I bought mine. Hopefully they have.
    It is worth it because I have used it for so many things other than body work.

  15. #15
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Nothing against POR 15 as it is good stuff. I personally like Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator because I don't have to try and clean off all the rust. It will chemically convert the rust to a neutral state and prevent further rust (as long as you get all of it covered! ) They offer it in quarts, aerosols, etc. Very easy to apply and covers very well. You only need to sand/scrape off any large chunks or debris and then coat with the R.E. If you only need to do the underside of the roof then that's it. If the area will be exposed to sunlight then it needs a top coat over the R.E. as it is not UV stable. Good Luck!
    ​Trey

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  16. #16
    FEP Member Boxtop78's Avatar
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    Well,I did some research on panel bonding it is a bit pricey, I'm leaning toward Eastwood R E stuff it look simple to apply. I need to give Eastwood a call Friday.

  17. #17
    FEP Member Boxtop78's Avatar
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    Got the package from eastwood today,used both cans on it hope it's enough it's time for the headliner to go back in and more on to engine compartment (engine removal)
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    Last edited by Boxtop78; 07-01-2017 at 03:48 PM.

  18. #18

    Default

    If you can cut out the trash and repair with good metal that's the way to go. Ultimately fiberglass filler might eventually pop. You don't wanna hair ass put in the work and have a car that bubbles in a few years.
    1984.5 G.T.350 had since 16y/o
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