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  1. #1

    Lightbulb Immediate stall when starting/ t5z whine

    I usually don't post much because I normally find the answer when searching. My first issue is the car stalls immediately when starting a few times whether it's cold or hot. I'm 99% sure my edelbrock 600cfm carb is set correctly and I'm unable to find any vacuum leaks. Could this be a distributor or ICM issue?

    My second issue is I get a slight whine in 1,2,3 gears only when my foot is on the gas. I recently had it apart to replace input shaft bearing and I'm pretty sure preload was set correctly. I looked over everything else and to my eye the other bearings where fine.

    If it was input shaft bearing or preload issue wouldn't it whine when revving in neutral?

    Also I nicked a tooth on the input gear when cutting off the old inner race, could that cause a whine?

    The only other thing I can think of is when I replaced heater core hoses i installed a socket as a restricting orifice for the inlet. Anybody do the same and result in a whine?

    Thanks in advance, any information will be helpful.

  2. #2


    The whine is caused the by misalignment of the input shaft gear and the cluster gear so they are not meshing properly. That is evident because you don't have a noise in 4th. The issue is either the gears themselves(especially if you damaged the teeth) or wear to following bearings; the pilot bearing in the crank, the input shaft bearing or the roller bearing on back side of the input shaft or the cluster shaft bearings. I would check your choke is working good on the stalling issue

  3. #3


    Thanks for your help, I haven't had time to do anything until now, so I decided to add 1/2 qt of fluid on the off chance that it was low. Noise decreased a little but still evident there is another issue so I'm gonna pull the transmission soon.

    Does anyone know if there is a difference in bearings between T5 and T5z other than the bearing on the back side of the input shaft? I can't find any bearings listed for T5z other than that "pocket" bearing found on astro performance

  4. #4


    Agreed on all points above.

    Lets St start with simple stuff.

    You need to sure you are properly filling your T5Z and using the correct lube. It originally used Dextron II. Today there are fluids that show they are for use in transmissions that started out needing Dextron 1-2 that are actually way better live than even 3 and others. I will advise against teflon additives or synthetics as they can cause problems with WC T5 and T5Z synchros.

    I always fill mine during routine maintenance with the car high and level on 4 jack stands through the top plug using a suction gun.

    When I've just installed it and the console is out anyway I take the top plug out and fill it from the shifter opening until it starts running out the top plug simply because it's easier.

    If it's not filled until it runs back out its low on fluid and this will cause problems for sure.

  5. #5


    Thanks for the advice, I always fill from the shifter, it's much easier than filling from the top plug. As I stated in my last post there must be worn bearings. Before ordering I wanted to confirm that the only difference in bearings between t5 and t5z was the "pocket" bearing on the back side of the input shaft.

  6. #6


    Pages 6-9 cover adjustment checks for Edelbrock carburetors:

    1986 Mustang convertible 3.8L ---> BUILD THREAD
    1983 Mercury Cougar 3.8L LS
    1986 Ford Thunderbird 5.0L ELAN
    1966 Ford Fairlane sedan 200-6
    1966 Ford Fairlane GT (390ci 4spd)
    1981 Mercury Marquis Brougham
    1980 Capri RS Turbo
    1971 Mustang Fastback
    1974 Pontiac Luxury LeMans

  7. #7


    There are variants of t5's out there that use different bearings. But the z uses the same bearings as the 85-93 world class t5 v8 trans with exception of the pocket bearing. Your best bet is to order your kit from a reputable supplier using the tag info off the trans you have to ensure you get the right kit.

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