intake gasket replace

[Magnetic82]

Hello, all:

I want to pull the intake manifold off the 86 GT for cleaning. That will require new gaskets. Not a major problem but I am open to any advice. Some folks use the small end gasket pieces, others apply RTV to the ends of the lower intake. As the factory used the two end pieces, should I continue or use the RTV? No leaks but I do want a good seal. I've also heard to apply RTV to the water ports to help seal those areas. I think the most work will be removing old gasket material and making sure the surfaces are clean. I plan to use Fel-Pro gaskets. Last time I replaced the thermostat I installed it 'dry', no RTV or water pump gasket stuff. Just a little to hold it in place. No leaks in three years thus far. Lastly, what tricks can anyone off for actually cleaning the intakes?

Thanks much.

[dagenham]

The kit comes with the cork end pieces and I recommend using them. A small dab of rtv at each end of the cork at the tabs is all you need. I use Permatex Indian head shellac on both sides of the cork strips also.

[erratic50]

Haven't tried it myself but I've heard oven cleaner does wonders on cleaning up aluminum before reconditioning.

When I swapped intakes I was dealing with an 86 motor that hadn't had a single part off of it since 1992 save the upper intake and valve covers. The best bet is a nice shiney new razor scraper with a 10 pack of blades and a ton of time.

if anyone has ever had any doubts about how well hitack works, remove them. Lordy, what a pita!

I picked up the felpro kit for the 96 Explorer when I did mine mainly because that's what I had initially planned to install. I sold that intake setup with the GT40 specific gaskets only. The rest of the kit was nice - their premium rubber intake end gaskets, etc.

I bought a Typhoon upper/lower for only $230. I kept the Explorer 65MM throttle body and sold the freshly tanked Explorer intake ready to install on a fox for $250. Then I found a matching EGR spacer for only $20. The throttle body conversion to fox was a 10 minute job.

I had only gave $100 for the explorer setup in the first place and $15 for the gasket set so I came out really well in the end.

Just make sure your PCV valve and filter are fresh and correct. Screw this up and you can end up with your rear intake gasket sucked into the lifter valley or blown out the back in extreme cases - ask me how I know.....

I really had no business doing an intake swap on my tired old 5.0L with over 440K but there is just something rewarding and unnatural about hearing an old roller 5.0 willingly spin past 6000 on its way to the rev limiter at 6250. And the 19lb/hr injectors are basically maxed out when done as the A/F goes lean without more fuel pressure.

Yes - there really is THAT much restriction in the stock induction and headers that gets released when you swap them out. Porting the stock parts definitely helps but better parts will do more.

The problem is an E6 head will flow around 155CFM, (E7 around 160), on the intake side but the stock intake will only flow 110 front and rear and 130 everywhere else. And Ford somehow thought going from a 58MM to a 60MM throttle body was of any real consequence.... Not so much when there is 280CFM worth of intake restriction compared to the heads. Ironically it's the throttlebody and heads everyone immediately calls junk. I find this very strange.

Some guys have successfully ported the stock upper and mated it to a Holley system max 1 lower and solved the restriction while appearing stock. Many swap to Explorer or cobra or those ported. Many go to Edelbrock, Typhoon, procomp, etc. The intake manufacturers claim big gains even with stock heads. Throw on some 1.7:1 rockers while you are there - especially on exhaust side- and further prove them right.

Last I knew Tom Moss was still offering cleanup and porting on stock intakes. I've seen his work, he does an outstanding job. Definitely an artist at work in his element there. Big gains, entirely stock appearing.

Have fun turning wrenches. A little penetrating lube the night before goes a LONG ways on the fuel lines where they connect to the rails.

[Magnetic82]

Thanks for the advice. I expect it to go smooth but wanted to check those with experience. I plan on keeping it stock forever. I've had the fuel rails off last Spring when I replaced the injectors. Starting to get the hang of those quick disconnects. I replaced some fuel items today- the fuel pump, fuel filter, and the sending unit- so tomorrow is under the hood day with the new factory fuel pressure reg. Since the upper comes off to do this, I may remove the whole enchilada and clean it up. Thanks again.

[erratic50]

Oh - if you have torx bolts holding the 5.0 plate still get a nice new bit. Wack the top with a hammer the shoot it down with penetrating lube the night before. Use antiseize religiously when you reassemble. If you don't certain bolts like these very likely will twist off the next time you work on it.

[ashley roachclip]

I never use the end gaskets in the set.
I always use Right Stuff , or Honda Bond , for the ends.

[stangman86gt]

i used the magnum gasket set for the explorer intake. Just 4 dabs of the right stuff in the corners. No leaks. and having intake studs was helpful too