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  1. #1

    Default '83 Mercuy Capri Turbo Build

    Throwback: http://vb.foureyedpride.com/showthre...ercury-Capri-L

    The story starts; After 5 years of building and overhauling custom motorcycles I found myself looking into my first car project. I had always wanted a DeLorean because of the totally rad flat, four eyed front end. I knew about the fox chassis but honestly had never seen the four eyed body style until I really started looking into buying my first project. After that the Capri was found. BAM. Loved it. Super square, four eyed, nice body lines, and that booty… which I was not crazy about to start with and seriously thought about the bubble delete. Fast forward, I’m very glad that I kept it because the fresh paint really made it work in my eyes and I’m glad I was able to keep it original.


    On Craigslist one afternoon and notice a Capri up for Sale / Trade. He was interested in potential trade for a motorcycle. Lucky me, I had just finished a new café fighter that caught his eye and next thing you know I’m driving home my new ’83 Capri with a carb’d 351w and a T5. Everything was right in the world.


    It smoked like a pig, had a front clip that looked like it went through a meat grinder, had a hood scoop that resembled a party tent, and with Cooper Cobras behind 4:10’s, hooking was a joke even with my 750 cfm fed 351.








    I drove it for the summer as much as possible. Ran a 14.01 @ 101 at the track with a smile ear to ear. Once fall of 2015 came around it was time to begin the real project.


    I knew I wanted a turbo car. I had a clean slate and a vision of a 600rwhp turbo stick car. Now how to get there. The build I ended up going with after forum surfing and feedback from motor heads at work lead me to the following build.


    ’96 351w Roller Block – Stock bore, studded caps, head bolts, all fresh bearings
    On3 70mm
    F303
    GT40x Heads
    1.72 Roller Rockers


    Now it was building time….






    With the motor all finished and sitting on an engine stand I was at a standstill with money, and with a garage situation. My wife and I bought our first house and I was able to get my hands on a 3 car garage and move the roller of a car from a storage unit to my new toy shop. I went ahead and bought some of the boring stuff, motor mounts, trans brace, driveshaft, mounting hardware etc. Now I was ready to drop the heart into the engine bay.





    I bought a pair of China headers for the single turbo with the expectation to cut and weld as necessary. I was right. I had to do a bunch of tweaking and re-welding on the crossover pipe to make the system fit while keeping my front sway bar in place. I also had to notch a few sections of metal to allow clearance (just enough) for the headers and the tubing to actually fit on the motor. I also had to move the sway bar forward about a half an inch. Simply drilling new holes and some elbow grease got it into place.










    With the turbo headers in, and the sway bar adjusted I was able to get onto my wastegate location. I didn’t want to use the garbage location that China provided me with so I made my own crafty wastegate junction right at the turbo’s hot side turbine.









    With the wastegate in its permanent home, I had to get a little crafty with the accessories I was running. Power steering, alternator, and water pump required a custom rod end setup that took a few renditions to get perfect but we got there. With all that installed I was able to jump into the intercooler and routing of tubing. The intercooler fit PERFECTLY in the notch in the front clip grill. I had to make the mounting bracket attach to the lower portion of the intercooler which then bolter right to the cross brace on the front end of the frame.









    With the turbo in place, and the ducting routed to support super-duper-boost I was ready to tackle the downpipe. I am pretty good with my TIG unit so I figured what the heck, I’ll buy a 10’ section of 3” and do pie cuts to fit the pipe to my application. It worked great. It took an afternoon of tweaking tack welds but I was able to get something that fit great, and looked good all at the same time.










    Next was the fuel & intake system. The thought of making a fully custom welded aluminum intake elbow came across my mind, but at the end of the day went with a cast Edlebrock elbow. Price point was similar without any labor / risk involved. I ended up drilling/tapping 4 ports in the intake elbow for vacuum / boost reference ports to go to various components / gauges.


    I also came up with a custom throttle cable idea made form a bike brake kit, and piece of steel, and a rod end.




    With the intake installed it was time to run fuel lines. I went with -8 feed and -8 return. The feed line was split into two -6 lines at the oil pan that fed each rail individually and crossed over back to the FPR. I welded AN fittings to the fuel hat to make my standard AN fitting work at each connection point. I bought a Aero knock off from ebay and the 1/8 NPT tapped port for the gauge was machined too deep so my only option was to JB weld the gauge in place to prevent any leaks…













    With the mechanical side of the engine bay wrapped up it was time to get my wiring game on. I had a partial harness from the F250 the block came out of, and the chopped up harness form the 94 mustang that my T4M0 came out of. Using these two harnesses, and a wiring diagram (and many beers) I decided I would make my own custom harness and run each wire that I needed. I deleted a bunch of systems from the harness so I figured this would keep it neat and concise.










    With my wiring harness completed, it was time to turn this bad Charlie over and see what I got for spark/signals. “Crank, Crank, GRIND!”… My starter motor sounded like garbage. After extensive measurements on the starter motor and bell housing I determined that something was not right. Some more research proved that I had the “short snout” starter motor rather than the “long snout” motor. This made all the difference. Once the new motor (Wilson 91-02-5846) was installed I was cranking like a champ. Upon first attempt I had great looking spark…CHECK!


    Next up was the injector pulses…not so lucky. I was seeing 8 pulses / rev of the motor which told me something was wrong. Long story short, I had the O2 sensors wired incorrectly and I was feeding my signal return wire 12v. The old 94/95 O2 harness confusion resulting in voltage at pin #46. I did NOT fry my ECM after this mistake. Simple rewire and boom! I had great looking injector pulses.










    With these pulses I was able to get the motor to limp along (barley) which had me beaming with excitement. Again, stock ECM, 60# injectors, 24# calibrated MAF… car ran like a big bag of poo. BUT running none the less.
    Last edited by Pancakeshake; 06-07-2017 at 07:21 AM.

  2. #2

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    Now that I had a car that fired up, and “ran” I was ready to tackle some cosmetics. I know I know, kinda backwards. Build the car then paint it? . I first installed the pre-83 mustand air dam after I spent about 6 hours sanding down the stupid urethane bumper cover. Trust me, it is FAR from perfect but it came out decent. They are next to impossible to find in good shape anyway. Plus, im not really a cosmetic guy, 110% function over form… adds to the sleeper look I guess.


    The car was brown before and has a full brown interior so in an attempt to keep it a touch original I went with a bronze metallic color. Bought me a HVLP spray gun and I was ready to shoot paint for the first time. My prep work consisted of 600 grit over the whole car, and a denatured wipe on each panel before I sprayed it. I removed the urethane moldings from the car (I was missing one anyway) and painted a black stripe in their place. Masked the line, and hit the car with 3 coasts of base, then 3 coats of high solids clear. Form my first spray job, in a dusty open garage, I think it came out AWESOME. Sure there is a bit of peel, dust specks and a few bug trails, but it adds to the look….











    It was time to get the car down to the dyno and have Josh and Pete over at Performance Dyno get me running. Trip one; “That MAF is totally going to peg once we get this thing rev’d up” … Pete was totally right. He gave me a great base tune that let the car run and drive out of boost so now I was at least able to road test it a bit. I got the BA5000 on order and scheduled my next pull.


    This time I was able to drive to the dyno and didn’t need to bother with the trailer which was awesome. We got it on the rollers and started doing some more tuning with the new MAF in place. Once it came time for some real pulls we did a few boost checks to see where my minimum boost was sitting, I had all 3 wategate spring installed and holy crap…we hit 18.2 psi first pull. EASY cowboy! I pulled the wastegate and took out a spring which set me right where I wanted to be. 11.8. That gave me a great base with room to grow if I wanted.









    Now we were ready for some full pulls. Josh dropped it in 4th and gave her the dinnah! The car would pull nice until about 3500 then, whack! It would tach out almost instantly. We both scratched our heads for a bit and then I asked him if this could be a symptom of a crappy clutch. We agreed at the point that it was totally what was going on. I honestly cant remember the part number but the clutch was some stock application unit that for some reason I trusted to hold power…









    My buddy down the street has a two post lift, so I jumped over there to get my new clutch in place. I went with a dual ceramic McLeod street extreme (75307). Good up to 700/700, and I heard it drove well. I was very surprised at just how well it did drove. Smooth engagement, great modulation. Highly recommend.


    Now that we had a clutch in place, back to the dyno for one last hurrah. I was ready to see what my first motor build would put down. 574/503 at the wheels at 12 psi. SO stoked.









    Next chapter is to see what it will run (what I can drive) in the ¼ mile! Gonna try and head down this week for street night in Epping weather dependent. I also need to do the clutch packs in my diff because with the Toyo R888 in the rear, I am one legging the car during burnouts…super embarrassing.
    Overall I had a blast building the car. Plenty of frustrations, but that lead to lots of lessons learned. I did the build on a “budget” and certainly went cheap on a few items that I will certainly avoid next time. Spend the money and do it right the first time. You don’t need an $800 wastegate…but the $100 China setup is certainly not ideal.


    Big shout to this forum and community here. Im 27 and use forums for everything… I don’t know how you guys build cars without the internet before…


    I can do my best to answer questions or give tips for anyone doing a similar projected. I learned a ton, but there is still plenty to learn. [MENTION=265690]PancakeShake[/MENTION] on the gram, and #shathatch to follow the project






  3. #3
    FEP Power Member craigerSS's Avatar
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    sweet
    here's to the freakin' weekend,I'll drink to that

  4. #4
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Awesome build and write up! Congrats on getting the Capri done and back on the road! Really making me feel like a slacker on my two projects right now!

    Love the color choice too! Very cool, looks like it could have been an original color, but still has that new metallic/pearl "POP" to it! I LOVE IT! if you don't mind me asking what is the actual color and brand?
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  5. #5
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Massive props to you. A great pick up, and Steve said you'd get 600 easy. 503 rwhp is 635 flywheel on my computer.

    Tie a piano wire to your right toe, and, well, just be carefull out there.

    This is a wounderfull outcome....and you did F303 it. Sheesh, what a ride!

    And eek Four!

    Thirsty Mercury, 5.8 Windsor, F cam, EECIV. There's too much sugar here, I'm gonna spaz out....I'm not the great Cornholio, but I need TP for my bunghole...

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by wraithracing View Post
    Love the color choice too! Very cool, looks like it could have been an original color, but still has that new metallic/pearl "POP" to it! I LOVE IT! if you don't mind me asking what is the actual color and brand?
    Its actually a Toyota color. 4U3, Sunset Bronze Mica. I saw it on a Tundra one day and knew that was my color. I LOVE the color, could not be happier with how it looks...especially in the sun

  7. #7
    FEP Super Member onetrackrider's Avatar
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    Nice to see this one getting a new life..
    Current rides:
    89 LX 5.0, 5 -spd..the Lemon
    86 RS Capri 5.0 Auto...
    86 LX Colorado SSP 5.0 5-spd (Sadly Sold)
    85.5 SVO, Finally Got Boost
    83 RS Capri 5.0, 5-spd (another sadly sold)

  8. #8
    Moderator wraithracing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pancakeshake View Post
    Its actually a Toyota color. 4U3, Sunset Bronze Mica. I saw it on a Tundra one day and knew that was my color. I LOVE the color, could not be happier with how it looks...especially in the sun
    That's the second Toyota color sprayed on a Mustang that I have liked lately! There is definitely some wrong going on here! Or maybe it's just me!

    Great color and again Congrats!
    ​Trey

    "I Don't build it hoping for your approval! I built it because it meets mine!"

    "I've spent most of my money on Mustangs, racing, and women... the rest I just wasted."

    Mustangs Past: Too many to remember!
    Current Mustangs:
    1969 Mach 1
    1979 Pace Car now 5.0/5 speed
    1982 GT Stalled RestoModification
    1984 SVO Still Waiting Restoration
    1986 GT Under going Wide Body Conversion Currently

    Current Capris:
    1981 Capri Roller
    1981 Capri Black Magic Roller Basket Case
    1982 Capri RS 5.0/4spd T-top Full Restoration Stalled in TX
    1984 Capri RS T-top Roller
    1983-84 Gloy Racing Trans Am/IMSA Body Parts

  9. #9
    FEP Super Member 84StangSVT's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    There's too much sugar here, I'm gonna spaz out....I'm not the great Cornholio, but I need TP for my bunghole...
    That's seriously the funniest thing I have read all week!

    To the O.P.:
    Car is looking great and that dude ought to be one heck of a fun ride.....as long as the streets are dry! Congrats!
    Brock
    1984 Mustang LX Convertible 3.8L V-6/Auto (SOLD)
    1984 Mustang GT Hatchback 5.0 V-8/5 Speed

    I'm an FEP Supporter and proud of it. Are you?

  10. #10

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    Well, after one pass I popped a head gasket. Oops! Pass felt decent, 12.6 @ 114, but I guess I started rolling antifreeze right at the 3-4 shift.

  11. #11
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    Head gasket integrity with alloy heads is a little less. On my Australian Ford in line six engines (mine have generally been 10:1 propane engines), we've noticed gasket failure is more common between the cross fire cylinders 5 and 6.


    On propnae V8's, ARP studs are good isurance, so is making sure you haven't over oiled the threads. Three stage torque


    No 5.0 or 5.8 OHV's were factory alloy head, so you gotta make sure the head gasket sits nice, and that your peak advance if turboed is scaled back. With the old Windsors, theres the standard headgasket check. One FRONT up, one dylexic FRONT down, both visiable from the head to block shut line.

    So just replace. But Check which cylinders show fire ring between cylinders.



    I like plumbers stops, parking the cylinders just down from tdc, then buying some Non Detructive Testing Dye Penetrate.

    After iso proply alcohol cleaning the head gasket block faces, and then dye penetrate, magna flux, and then a very close check for deck surface with a straignt edge. The big old 351W is a thinwall cast iron block, and you have to thread chase the head bolts, and not over lubricate so you can be right below the peak torque wrench settings.

  12. #12

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    Really nice car. I agree with your opinion on the bubble. Back when they were new I thought that it was rather ugly, thought the same thing about t-tops. I really like those options now.

    Nice build buddy, good job.

  13. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    Head gasket integrity with alloy heads is a little less. On my Australian Ford in line six engines (mine have generally been 10:1 propane engines), we've noticed gasket failure is more common between the cross fire cylinders 5 and 6.


    On propnae V8's, ARP studs are good isurance, so is making sure you haven't over oiled the threads. Three stage torque


    No 5.0 or 5.8 OHV's were factory alloy head, so you gotta make sure the head gasket sits nice, and that your peak advance if turboed is scaled back. With the old Windsors, theres the standard headgasket check. One FRONT up, one dylexic FRONT down, both visiable from the head to block shut line.

    So just replace. But Check which cylinders show fire ring between cylinders.



    I like plumbers stops, parking the cylinders just down from tdc, then buying some Non Detructive Testing Dye Penetrate.

    After iso proply alcohol cleaning the head gasket block faces, and then dye penetrate, magna flux, and then a very close check for deck surface with a straignt edge. The big old 351W is a thinwall cast iron block, and you have to thread chase the head bolts, and not over lubricate so you can be right below the peak torque wrench settings.
    So I had the heads installed with ARP bolts. Torqued right. Felpro 9333.

    Looks like a pretty nasty pop. Vicious failure. Strange thing is I didn't hear or feel anything.


  14. #14
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    You don't because its the physics of cylinder pressure, not detonation. Lookes like you got the right pistons. Block okay?

  15. #15

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    Awesome car man! Love it. The color, the wheels, the motor/power adder combo. Good job. I'll be following to see how long your t-5 lasts.

    Jess
    Previously owned;
    1979 Mustang, v6 swapped to EFI 393, custom installed m122 blower, 4r70w trans, Megasquirt II, T-top swaped in.
    1990 Mustang, 545 BBF, C-4 with brake, ladder bars.
    1983 Mustang, 1984 SVO Mustang
    1984 Mustang convertible, v6 swapped to 351
    1986 Mustang GT, 1989 Mustang GT convertible
    1992 Mustang coupe, 4 swapped to 302

  16. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by xctasy View Post
    You don't because its the physics of cylinder pressure, not detonation. Lookes like you got the right pistons. Block okay?
    Block appears to be fine.

    Other than fresh bearings, and fasteners, the bottom end in bone stock. Crank, rods, pistons. I am "only" at 503rwhp.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mustang-junky View Post
    Awesome car man! Love it. The color, the wheels, the motor/power adder combo. Good job. I'll be following to see how long your t-5 lasts.

    Jess
    The trans is a 3550 that was "converted" to a TKO 600.... the stories you get on Craigslist. I verified the part number as a 3550...so lets hope the internal upgrades were legit.

    That said, it does have a 26 spline input shaft and has survived my dyno pulls. So far so good!

  17. #17

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    Nice. Your color choice if superb.
    Liberty once lost is lost forever.

    John Adams
    July 7, 1775

  18. #18

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    This car is sweet! Best of luck getting the engine repaired!
    Brad

    '79 Mercury Zephyr ES 5.0L GT40 EFI, T-5
    '17 Ford Focus ST
    '14 Ford Fusion SE Manual

  19. #19
    FEP Super Member xctasy's Avatar
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    PhotoBucket restoration time, PO'B.

    Previously Brandon-ATOR's (BM62391) Old Beast!

    Hope the headgasket is healed.

    Quote Originally Posted by Pancakeshake View Post
    Sorry to bump an old thread.

    But I have a new toy that may look familiar!

    In good hands now, gonna get the attention she deserves haha.

    I use the same tires on my AWD Stagea...great choice of rolling stock. Only I'm 18"s with less width and offset.The 17's look nice with 275 rear, 245 front, 6" backspace on 9" wheels.

    Did you stay 9" at the rear?


    Bike riders always cut the edges, and understand the importance of handling and traction. Moving to 17's was a powder coated black gift in alloy from my son for my current ride.










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